Author Topic: First sawmill (Read 3879 times)

rusticretreater · « **Reply #20 on:** February 22, 2022, 08:35:33 PM »

Yep, a good sandblasting and repaint would be a good thing. Another mammoth undertaking though.

OldRedFord · « **Reply #21 on:** February 23, 2022, 07:37:37 PM »

As far as the sawmill track I've decided to stick with wood. Some of it needs replaced but wood is still way cheaper then steel.

I'm sticking with duplicating the current layout of the mill also. Edger and trimmer will be in a slightly different spot. Going to add a flat belt pulley to the arbor to allow me to run the mill off steam. I do have a friend with a Case steam tractor.

DMcCoy · « **Reply #22 on:** February 23, 2022, 08:19:11 PM »

Wow! Steam too…keep the pictures coming!

OldRedFord · « **Reply #23 on:** February 26, 2022, 07:30:18 PM »

How can I tell what size Frick mill the carriage is from?
The runners the ells move on are 50 inches long. The Ells have 1180C stamped in them and the wheels are about 9 inches aross.

OldRedFord · « **Reply #24 on:** February 26, 2022, 07:48:54 PM »

Teaser pic from today

moodnacreek · « **Reply #25 on:** February 26, 2022, 07:55:36 PM »

Quote from: OldRedFord on February 26, 2022, 07:30:18 PM

How can I tell what size Frick mill the carriage is from?
The runners the ells move on are 50 inches long. The Ells have 1180C stamped in them and the wheels are about 9 inches aross.

I am not a frick man and would not know but when you talk sawmills know the headblock opening [the distance from the headblock upright to the saw or add 1/2" if mill is apart] . And know your mandrel diameter and collar diameter. The set shaft size also. This info will give the expert a good idea what you have.

OldRedFord · « **Reply #26 on:** February 27, 2022, 07:01:55 PM »

Set shaft is 1 11/16" and the head block opening is 40" so it looks like it's a Frick 01 carriage.

I've got one of the head blocks bound up. What would be the best way to go about freeing it up? This bound up rack is not impacting the rest of the head blocks moving.

Also noticed the setworks advances forward nice and easy but retracting the head blocks takes a lot of effort.

moodnacreek · « **Reply #27 on:** February 27, 2022, 08:21:29 PM »

40" opening is a decent size, probably all you would ever need. The steel car channel carriage frame is the way they are made today, that is also a good thing. It looks like the set lever could be used by a carriage rider but I see no platform for him so there must be a reach rod.

OldRedFord · « **Reply #28 on:** February 27, 2022, 09:28:09 PM »

Quote from: moodnacreek on February 27, 2022, 08:21:29 PM

40" opening is a decent size, probably all you would ever need. The steel car channel carriage frame is the way they are made today, that is also a good thing. It looks like the set lever could be used by a carriage rider but I see no platform for him so there must be a reach rod.

It does have the reach rod. The bar that holds it up is broken off and missing.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #29 on:** February 28, 2022, 08:18:04 AM »

Retracting always takes more effort, as you're moving a greater distance in one stroke than you do when advancing. Looks to me you need some good penetrating oil. Sponsor Logrite has Blue Creeper which I used for a lot of my lube on a big mill. Keeps everything moving without any oily buildup, which attracts dust.

If its bound up and not affecting the headblocks, I would wonder if the key is still there in the cog.

DanMc · « **Reply #30 on:** March 01, 2022, 10:47:42 AM »

Can't wait to see this up and running, especially if it's driven by a steam tractor. I get my annual fix going to the Rough and Tumble Steam show in Lancaster cty, PA. They have a mill that they run from a steam tractor. It's marvelous to watch.

https://roughandtumble.org

OldRedFord · « **Reply #31 on:** March 13, 2022, 10:20:06 AM »

Arbor nut seems frozen. Best way to go about getting it loose?

I assume right hand to tighten?

beenthere · « **Reply #32 on:** March 13, 2022, 11:43:44 AM »

Look close at the threads..

Link to previous discussion
Mandrel Nut Right Hand or Left Hand Thread in Sawmills and Milling

rusticretreater · « **Reply #33 on:** March 13, 2022, 12:00:09 PM »

The threaded end doesn't protrude from the nut? For something that spins rapidly, usually the nut screws on in the same direction as the rotation.

You can spray it with a solvent and try to work it back and forth until it comes off. Or heat it with an acetylene torch and then remove it.

Are you talking about the blade arbor? You can try to chock the blade with a chunk of wood, get a pipe wrench and a pipe that fits over the handle and use that leverage to get it off.

Cornerstone · « **Reply #34 on:** March 13, 2022, 02:18:08 PM »

Wow. I'm in for the ride!

beenthere · « **Reply #35 on:** March 13, 2022, 06:07:33 PM »

Use the proper box-end wrench on your arbor nut. Not a pipe wrench so's to keep from junking up the nut.

At 41:00 on this video link.

OldRedFord · « **Reply #36 on:** March 13, 2022, 09:10:31 PM »

When I go back ill take a picture of the end of the blade arbor. The shaft stops just short of threading through the nut by two threads.

Been workimg on rough grading the sawmill site some more. Also brought back half the log deck and the concrete footings for it today. They are roughly 2x2x4 foot each.

The trough at the top of the trailer load is extra sawdust chain trough.

Cornerstone · « **Reply #37 on:** March 13, 2022, 11:00:55 PM »

Sheesh... and I thought I had a lot of work ahead of me!

I better just stay quiet.

OldRedFord · « **Reply #38 on:** March 14, 2022, 04:57:58 PM »

Quote from: Cornerstone on March 13, 2022, 11:00:55 PM

Sheesh... and I thought I had a lot of work ahead of me! I better just stay quiet.

I very much do. The building you see in some of my pics is my in progress barndominium build. 1/4 residence and 3/4s hobby machine shop. Also do my own stunts and generally can be found working alone.

moodnacreek · « **Reply #39 on:** March 14, 2022, 07:41:15 PM »

Old Red, You seem to be the person who will actually get it done. Most who start to set up an old mill never finish or can't get it to saw if they get that far. I just changed to a newer mill and it is running now. Took 6 months and that was with existing concrete and steel legs. Worked 7 days a week and the last 3 weeks dialing it in. Are you going to set those concrete squares in concrete?

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Author Topic: First sawmill (Read 3879 times)

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