Chisel sharpening

[Dan_Shade]

I wanted to add this to a post @Dave Shepard shared a few years back, as that's where I got the idea for this jig, but I could not find find that post. 

It works like a charm, it's fast and consistent.  

 

 

And a quick video:
Timberframe Chisel Sharpening - YouTube

[ShimodaLife]

Good video and idea. Thanks for sharing. I had a similar idea, inspired by someone on YT, and built my own tool. See video below (start at 16:00 point to avoid boring narrative). I recall I came under fire for this idea, someone calling it "sacrilege" or something cause I wasn't respectful enough of the chisel... :

Back To Square One! No Architect, New Tool (S3E38) - YouTube

JT

[Dan_Shade]

Some people like to gripe, they are probably grumpy because their chisels are dull. 

I was thinking today how to build a jig like this for my bench chisels. 

I was impressed with how well it worked. 

[Walnut Beast]

Great ideas! Some kind of screwing device would be nice for different profiles if that can be implemented with a little thinking would be nice. I was just looking at a set of diamond flat stones for axes and what you were doing. If you look at Wicked Edge knife sharpeners are the best out there. They use a similar profile system. Thanks for the ideas guys!!  

https://wickededgeusa.com/

[Dan_Shade]

Probably easier to change the stone location than to add screws if you want different profiles.  Moving the stone closer to the upright increases the angle, moving it away decreases the angle. 

[Brad_bb]

Once you set your angle initially, it's not hard to sharpen it from then on with just your hands and fingers pressing the angle to the stone or sandpaper and working back and forth with the chisel.  Once your desired angle is established, it's easy to maintain in subsequent hand sharpenings without a jig.  Even if your angle changed a little over time(so you're close to 25-30), it will still cut well.  And isn't that's all that's really important?

[Don P]

The first thing I do is look at and flatten the back if it is not smooth in the edge area. You'll never get sharp if it is pitted or scarred. I sharpen on a bench grinder with a white friable wheel and light pressure, keep it cool. This creates a hollow grind. Then when honing by hand it is easier to rest on the tip and heel of the grind and maintain a flat angle. It is also faster because there is less to be removed. As the flat closes from both sides after repeated honing I go back to the bench wheel. On the other side I keep a muslin wheel charged with emery or rouge to finish.  Much of the convex most people create by hand is wanting to get to an edge faster than the stock is being removed. They tip up and go steeper, and convex. That fat back is strong but has to be pounded through the work harder.