Electric clutch or manual?

[Kwill]

Im considering using a electric clutch on my sawmill build versus a manual lever and pulley type. Anyone using a electric?

[scsmith42]

I have electric on my homemade slabber.  For my application electric was best, but on a sawmill I think that I would use either centrifugal or manual engagement.

To me, the electric is a problem awaiting to occur.  So far we've had to repair the wiring to it three times due to vibration.

[Ljohnsaw]

I'm using an 18 hp B&S twin with the factory electric clutch:

 

 

So far, no issues.  Sure is nice to flick a switch and go.  I have a fixed pulley on the other side that I'm considering running a hydraulic pump to run drive motors for raise and lower as well as travel.  Or I could go the easy route and make it electric. ;)

[Kwill]

I'm using an 18 hp B&S twin with the factory electric clutch:

 

 

So far, no issues.  Sure is nice to flick a switch and go.  I have a fixed pulley on the other side that I'm considering running a hydraulic pump to run drive motors for raise and lower as well as travel.  Or I could go the easy route and make it electric. ;)

I like the idea of hitting a switch  ;)

[DDW_OR]

my timberking uses an electric clutch, no problems.

[thecfarm]

I have a centrifugal clutch. My shoulder could not do a lever that needed to be pushed every time I had to saw.

[Joe Hillmann]

I have an electric clutch on mine.  It came with the engine I bought to build my mill.  It failed the first summer and a direct replacement was around $900.  I ended up finding something close on 'discount alternator and starter' for around $120.  So far it doesn't appear to be wearing.  I idle down before I engage it and when do lots of quick cuts I keep it engaged between cuts to reduce wear.  The one I have now has a built in break and it is beginning to wear.  If I was to start over I would probably gone with some type of homemade clutch by moving the engine or an idler wheel.  But homemade ones require some type of cage around the belt and pulley by the engine to prevent the belt from rubbing on the engine pulley when it is disengaged otherwise it can wear out the belt in a mater of seconds or never fully disengage the clutch.

[bandmiller2]

Joe just said it electric clutches and centrifugal clutches are very expensive in the sizes needed for a band mill. A belt idler or rocking engine base are basically free if your building a mill. Electric clutches apply fast and belts almost always chirp, Idler you can ease them in. Frank C.

[Bluejay27]

I've used two LT40s with and without an electric clutch (tilting the engine), and the electric clutch is so much easier and has some added versatility. If you add a switch to the saw carriage and a bumper on the track (either at the end or move-able to optimize for log length) you can make the mill stop automatically. My setup needs some work (too easy to forget and crash the switch into the bumper), but it makes sawing alone a lot more productive.

[paul case]

I didnt think that WM used an electric clutch on the lt40. They do have auto clutch which is a electric motor that tips the motor and tightens the belt.

What the OP question was about is belt tightener or 12 volt magnetic clutch if I am not mistaken.

PC

[Kwill]

Not sure which way i will go yet but the electric clutch is looking better and better