Folely-Belsaw M-14 Mill

[Ron R.]

Finally found a Foley Belsaw mill. Got an attentative agreement on the mill so hopefully I'll be dragging it home in a few days. Appreciate all the great feedback and advice from all on the forum. Really helps to have a few noggins beside your own thinking about things. I'm looking forward to when I get it home and start setting it up and posting some pics so you guys can see how I getting along. Again, many thanks to all on the forum for all the help.    Ron

[zopi]

Cong-a-rats!

[bandmiller2]

Good news Ron,theirs quite alot on the internet about setting up belsaws,and alot of practical knowledge here on the forum.One site is www. owwm.com [old wood working machines].What are you planning to use for power?What about the headsaw inserted tooth or solid??Enjoy the trip,keep us in the loop.Frank C.

[Ron R.]

Frank C., The mill has been in storage for the past 15 years. The gentlemen's father owned the mill and he still has the operators manual for it. It has a 40 inch inserted tooth blade with it. I am powering it with a 3020 John Deere (70hp.) tractor. Hopefully will go this weekend or early next week and pick it up. Maybe with a little luck I can finally get my shop and now mill shed :D sawed out. Thanks for the heads up on the website, I'll be sure and check it out......Ron

[KyTreeFarmer]

Congrats on your find Ron. I remember well the day I picked up my old Foley. Had lots of fun restoring it. Just need to get back to playing with it again, but the new LT 15 is taking up all my time now!! Is  yours on a metal base or wood? Mine was wood and all rotted down. Had to re-do the whole shebang. If you come my direction you are welcome to stop by and see how I went about it. Have fun!!
Mike

[Ron R.]

Mike, This one is on wood. But have the operators manual so set up shouldn't be too bad. I'd like to see yours and if I'm ever headed over in your direction I'll be sure to give you a holler. Been keeping up on the post on your LT15 and glad to see you are having fun with it. Keep us informed.................Ron

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Congrats Ron you have made a fine choice there Mate  ;) ;D ;D 8) 8) 8) I like the M14s Dad and I where looking at the full steel framed Timberking M16 with 44" insert back in 95/96 before  we got my first bandmill a little Jonsered portable sometimes i wised wed got'n the TK  : but then again it couldnt saw upto 50' ;) :D :D its a pitty they dont build em anymore  : as they are a top little mill for sawing out your own timber and doing a light commecial work as long as your not pushing and doing Huge logs on em all the time  ;)

Itll do a top job for you and remember you can allways add a little track to saw abit longer  ;) Keep us posted and upto date with plenty of pics Mate

Reguards Chris

[uncle kenn]

I have the same mill. 1999, like new, all metal. driven by a 70 hp jd combine engine. have the footings poured and the table set up but still working on the set up. I have the 40" inserted tooth blade and am very excited about the prospects of getting it up and running this summer. uncle kenn

[Joe Lallande]

I am currently rebuilding a M-14 and a 60HP diesel engine that came with the mill.  Matt at Timberking has been very helpful in sending me a current list of their Belsaw parts inventory.  Good luck.

[Ron R.]

Joe and Ken, Glad to see there are several of the M-14's still around. Always helpful that some are up and running to get help with problem solving. I'll have to get in touch with Timberking as I'm sure when I get it home there will be things that need repaired...Best of luck on the mills and hopefully we'll be visiting quiet often about them......Ron

[bandmiller2]

Ron,its a good you have the manual,really pay attention to the wedge shaped log turners that hinge up to turn the logs/cants.Belsaws don't like heavy shock loads on the carriage,those turners take the brunt of the shock.I mounted mine on deeply burried sections of utility pole.Its been mentioned many times but working hight is very important.You want the sawyers side with the carriage bunks [top] about mid thigh hight or a tad lower,offbearer about waiste hight.Best to work off a wood platform that also allows you to have the mill higher than if you work off the ground for cleanout.A device to remove sawdust will be required,you will soon tire of pulling it out with a rake.Best on a small mill is a conveyer,that can be a simple belt or chain with paddles.I have never tried it but I think a long screw like they use to transfer grain would work also.Frank C.

[Ron R.]

Frank C., Going  tomorrow to pick up the mill. I'll probably be posting some pics as I start my adventure of trying to get it up and running. I'm sure I'll need lots of advice from folks as several on here have figured out better ways of doing things. I'm thinking of a blower for the sawdust eventually but that's going to be down the road. A shell corn elevator would work in my opinion or maybe an old elevator off of an old corn picker. I'll just have to figure that out later as I'm probably not going to be making much dust for quiet a while......Thanks for the advice and input ............Ron

[Ron Wenrich]

Auger style might work as long as the tops open.  If you get a chunk of wood in there it might get lodged between the auger and the wall side.  You will get a chunk of wood in there sometime. 

[HOGFARMER]

Bandmiller2, could you describe the wedge shaped hinged turners you refer to?  My setup manual for an M-14 from Timberking neither mentions or shows a photo or drawing for them.  Am in the process of setting mine up and would really appreciate seing a photo or copy of that manual page.  As always thanks for the help!!!!!!

[bandmiller2]

Hogfarmer,go back to page 5 to JSNH's post and hit on his photos theirs some good pictures of me Jason and the log turners,my bandmill turner,and home made band setter.I guilded the lily on the circle mill log turner using rollers ,works almost as well with just round stock or pipe on the incline.Pictures also show circle mill foundation and sawyers platform.Frank C.

[bandmiller2]

Hogfarmer,the lower part of the incline should be just a little above the hight of your carriage.They are hinged to allow for log loading,they are put down and two 3' pieces of oak are put on top of the posts and the log deck that is the same hight as the carriage after loading their removed that way you don't have to step over them when dogging the log.To use the turners flip them up and 1/4 turn the log or cant twords you ,it hits the incline and slides back on the carriage with little impact on the carriage.In the back of one of the photos is my carriage stop its independent of the mill a section of utility pole with a auto leaf spring hit it and it fires the carriage right back.Frank C.

[Ron Wenrich]

Here's the pictures that Frank's talking about:








I had some like this that I used back in the early '80s.  I bought them used and they only had 2 rollers on them.  They were larger rolls then the one's pictured.  At that time, I had some long hickory poles that were had the bark peeled off as a log deck.  I took them right to the carriage and had the turners mounted on the end of the poles.  I turned some really big logs on those, and turned them a whole lot faster than without. 

The only problem with that configuration is that you had to climb over the poles to flip the turner up or down.  Some guys have used a lever device to move the turners up and down.

There's other types of designs that will work using the same concept.  It all depends on how much you're going to saw, and how much you're willing to commit to the project. 

[bandmiller2]

Thanks Ron W.,Ron R. blowers are the best way to get sawdust out of your county but they pull alot of hp right off the top of your power plant and are noisy.Unless they are heavy duty they will take a beating from knots and chunks.Conveyers wile not as efficient at getting rid of sawdust are quiet and require squat for power.Frank C.

[Ron R.]

Frank C., Like the looks of those log turners. I was thinking of just cutting a wedge block but the rollers are a slick idea. Got the Belsaw home yesterday. Fairly good trip (8hrs round trip). Anyhow, have a trailer load of parts to put together. Luckily have the manual for it. So I guess as soon as I get some hay cut and some work caught up here on the farm I'll get busy and start putting her together. Mill looks to be in good shape. I'll try to post some pics and probably gonna have to start a new topic of my progress. Thanks for all the input....................Ron

[bandmiller2]

Ron, those rollers are truck air brake cam rollers,the ones that fit in the pressed steel shoes.A wooden wedge with a  piece of strap metal bent over the top will work too.Years ago I learned to saw by reading the belsaw manual , a friend made a copy of his.Frank C.

[Tripp]

Those log turners look great. I am using flip up blocks at the present. Those should make sliding the log back on the carriage easier.

Dust removal was the hardest part of  getting my mill setup.

Here is my current configuration. (just food for thought)

I now have it working well and it is pretty trouble free.

[rpg52]

Thanks for the photos Tripp.  A sawdust drag, some dead rolls to move boards, and protection for the sawyer are next on my list to finish up my M-14.
Ray

[Ron R.]

Well guys, took some pictures of my mill that's still on the trailer and was gonna post some but I am not having any luck with that. I tried everything I knew and they are too big. Went to the jpeg upload to try that route and that didn't work either. Must not be holding my mouth right. Anyhow, soon as I can get someone with more brains than me then maybe I'll get them posted. ..........................................Ron

[Tripp]

I had the same problem when I first tried to post pictures.

This is the procedure that worked for me.

First upload the pictures to your gallery.

Then go to to your gallery and view a picture.

Under the picture there will be a line with the question to post the picture in a response to the forum. Click on that line and it will load the picture to your post.

Hope this helps.

Tripp

[Ron R.]

Poured the footers on the mill today.Got hotter than a two dollar pistol .(90+ here today) Going to give it about 3 days to cure and start putting things together. Can't figure out how to post pics so I'll just have to keep everyone informed on my progress. Taking pics so maybe someday I'll get it figured out and  get them posted in my gallery.....Have a great day all ........................Ron

[bandmiller2]

Ron,if you don't have any grandchildren,do what i do find a computer savy friend or even better anouther forum member to post some pictures for you, prey on their ability.Tip ,take lots of pictures as you build and date them some day as civilization encroaches and the town gets on your case tell them I 've had this mill for 20 years. Frank C.

[KyTreeFarmer]

Hey Ron
You have to shrink the pics to 45KB before they will upload. E-mail me and maybe I can help you out. Looking forward to seeing what you are up to.
Mike

[beenthere]

KyTreeFarmer

Shrink the dimensions first to less than 500 pixels.  THEN shrink to fit the 45Kb. If you shrink the file first, it will be like a postage stamp size. At first, I had a difficult time understanding this.

But the best way is to have Java, and use the Java uploader which does the resizing for you.

However, it all depends on ones' system.

Anxious to see pics. 

[Ron R.]

well, I've tried everything I know and still can't get the pics small enough. Anyhow, probably going to set the arbor on my mill tomorrow and hopefully get the tracks on. Slow but sure.....................Ron

[Tripp]

Glad to hear you are still progressing on the mill.

Good luck with the arbor and tracks.

Don't give up on the pics.

Tripp

[Ron R.]

 8) Finally figured out how to post a couple of pics in my gallery. Now I can keep everyone up with my progress. Set the mandrel today but am having to shift the shaft a little. It should have been alright where it was as it was taken apart all together but it doesn't measure out right. Hopefully I can get it moved and the pulley for the belt. Sprayed it down good with WD-40 to soak before I try to loosen set screws. Lot of aggrevation just to move it 3/4 of an inch........Ron

[Ron R.]

Making good progress on the mill. Pictures are posted in my gallery. Powered it up today to check carriage travel and everything looked good. Going to take the blade to the saw doc Monday or Tuesday to get it hammered. I'm getting that itchey feeling now. Won't be long before I can give her a test run.               Ron

[bandmiller2]

Thats good news Ron,be sure to pick the sawdocs brain if he's willing theirs alot of knowledge to be gleaned.Be sure when you running that nothing gets between the saw and the slanted table anything that rubs the blade is like poison to the tension in the plate.Take your time speed comes later.Be sure the log is stable on the carriage shim and block if necessary ,you don't want it to shift when your in the cut.Keep us posted and have fun. Frank C.

[KyTreeFarmer]

Ron looks like you have been busy!! Your pics sure bring back lots of good memories. From what I see looks like you are getting it right. Is that new store bought lumber? All the 2x's in mine were used, came out of old Sunday School building at a local church. How deep did you set the posts and are they in concrete? Still trying to decide how to set up my LT 15. Its just setting on some 4x4's right now. Keep us posted.

Mike

[Ron R.]

Mike, Base in sitting on 4x6 treated pine in concrete. I poured one ft in hole then poured another 2 ft around post.(3ft of concrete) I don't plan on it every moving. Base is built out of 2x10 treated lumber screwed together with 3 inch deck screws and plenty of them. I set 6 sets of legs under the 30 ft base. Going to try to get it going this week if everything goes good.....Ron

[Fred]

That is a good looking setup . I wish they still made them..

[Ron R.]

Loaded up a small cedar on the mill today and tried to square it. Not doubt now that the blade is going to the saw doc. Thought I would give it a try just for the heck of it. One end measured 4 inches square and the other end was 4 1/2 inches square. Checked lead and plumb on saw and it was fine.(according to manual settings)Blade has new teeth and shanks but noticed a little wobble in it. I think it needs hammered and tensioned.                Ron

[coastlogger]

Ron R  I wouldnt rush off to the saw dr just yet Ron if I were you.Not sure how familiar you are with your mill so will give you some ..thoughts based on my 20 years of part time M14 cutting.   The slight off sze is quite likely due to the posts not being set quite right.With big logs especially there is a tendancy for the far post not to advance quite as far as the post with the setting lever on it. Jostling the cant a bit after setting will relieve any torsion in the ccnnecting bar and correct this.Log needs to be reasonably balanced on carriage,particularly not heavy to the far end.If  the saw is the problem your guide will tell you.If the blade   starts really pushing on one side of the guide while doing a normal cut there could be a blade problem.Also, feeding too fast will cause that to happen.Look along your blade when it is stopped.It should not be cupped.A bit of wobble is ok,I sawed for years with a 52 inch that typically wobbled 1 16 inch or more and it made good lumber.If I had a bad binding cut the whole blade would go nuts after cut due to  heat,just let it spin for awhile at rpm and itll be fine.Water is great for keeping blade cool.Essentially,any change in temp affects tension. makes sense when you think of it.Most of the above I learned from a saw doctor who got no business from me after I took his advice.
clgr

[bandmiller2]

Ron, their is a learning curve running a circular mill, for you it should come pretty quick.It would be good form to have your saw checked it eliminates one variable wile your learning.The 40" headsaws Belsaw uses hold tension well but as coastlogger says most will have a little wobble its what happens in the cut that matters.Don't be afrade to vary the lead it can be different between the same type of mill.When you gig back the saw should just tick the log/cant.If it doesn't tick it usally means too much lead,if heavy contact at gig back not enough lead or negitive lead.Also too much lead can tend to pull the log/cant away from the headblock causing a slight taper.Frank C.

[apm]

A little wobble is not necessarily a deal breaker. Wobble can just as easily be caused by collars needing a little attention. A Belsaw doesn't use drive pins for the saw, just relies on the friction of the collars, so there's a tendency to overtighten the mandrel nut and affect the saw. If you get a chance to try a little larger log, see if the boards come off consistent. If they are the same thickness, end to end, and only the remaining cant is out of spec, the problem is more likely one of alignment. Keep after it, you'll get it. Side to side play in those small carriage wheels will also let the carriage creep away from the saw along the length of the log. If your board splitter is not properly lined up, it will put pressure on the carriage as it traverses past the saw. Was your thick side on the back end of the cant or the front?

Greg

[Sprucegum]

I had the same problem! 1/2 inch out from one end of the cant to the other but the boards were nice and straight.

I measured from each dog to the blade as I rolled the carriage by and found the alignment was out on the carriage - an easy fix thanks to advice from our friends here  8)

[KyTreeFarmer]

Hey Ron  Congrats!!! You got it sawing. I had the same problem with my mill. My problem was the headblocks didn't advance together. The last board would always be tapered. That was on my things to fix list, still is. I think you will quickly find the solution from all the other posts. Good luck and happy sawing!!
Mike

[Ron R.]

Sent blade to saw doc. Figured I just as well get started off on the right foot. Don't know for sure if it was the problem but will elliminate one thing anyway. Still need to get my loading ramps and off-bearer table built so I'll be ready when saw returns. ............................Ron

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Sounds like things are going well Ron   ;) ;D 8) 8) The Boys covered everything   ;) The saws the most important part of any mill if it aint running well you might as well packup n go home Ive worked in mills where they would spend 150k plus on the mill then reckon they can just whack any old saw in and runn at full noise  : : the worst is when they try blaming you  : : : Anyway Mate i reckon your doing a Top Job  ;) ;D 8)

Reguards Chris

[bandmiller2]

Ron, circular milling is about 95% common sense [5% mill gods]if theirs a problem shut down sit down and think about it their is a reason for misscut lumber.As Chris says  a good well tensioned headsaw, lead right is #1.Anything funky is usally caused by heat somewhere it shouldn't be.Keep your footing clear and guard the blade as best you can.If their are little tasks around the mill you dislike doing ,change them.Some of your first lumber should be for a roof.Frank C.

[bandmiller2]

Ron,how are you coming?something to think about when making your offbearers table,it helps if its removable to make filing the bits easier.Folks seldome think of it but you can't do a good job sharpening bits if your not comfy and relaxed.I can stand just behind the blade at a handy hight,that makes it so much easier to do a good job.My old mill I did free hand with a file,now I use the Dexter file guide pretty much insures a straight bit.Frank C.

[Ron R.]

Got the blade back from the saw doc yesterday. Put the blade on, adjusted lead, adjusted splitter and ran a cedar post through the mill. It squared it 5 inches all the way around and end to end. Am really pleased with the blade. Now, gotta finish my offbearer's table, saw some 6 bys to build my loading ramps and should be ready to start sawing some lumber to build a roof over mill and shop. It's been a great experience so far. Oh yea, gotta figure out something for that sawdust problem I'm gonna have. 8)........................Ron

[apm]

Hi Ron,

Where'd you send your saw? Is Pipers up near you? How did you pack it for shipment and who'd you ship it by? I'm getting ready to send one off for a spare and I'm a little nervous about rough treatment by the freight companies.

Thanks,

Greg

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Greg build a H/duty square pallet to suit you saw dia if its under 4' dia thisway they have to handel it with a fork no rolling it around and out the back of the truck  ;)
I should be able to post a pick of the one my 44" saw came in  ;) ;D

Reguards Chris

[bandmiller2]

Ron,fine cutting is your reward for doing things right.your wise to put a roof over your mill, nothing worse than laying in bed listening to the rain and knowing its soaking your mill machinery.Been alot written about this in the past but working hight  is important ,the carriage bunks should be knee to low thigh hight for the sawyer offbearer around hip hight or what seems handy to you.I like to work on a wood deck and off the ground or cement.Exposed wood deck should be stained a dark color to help get rid of snow and ice.Frank C.

[Tripp]

Ron
Glad to hear the mill is up and running!

Lots of good info in this thread.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Tripp

[Ron R.]

Knocked me down a nice cedar and cut it into 4x6's to make log ramps. Had a fun time sawing them out. Going to put them up next week and start working on shed to cover mill.    Ron

[bandmiller2]

Ron,in anouther post you mentioned getting a stationary engine for your Belsaw.Most power units will turn the wrong way if you couple it up like your tractor.Their are ways around this but require extra rigging.Sometimes you can find an old large tractor with a good engine and PTO but outher problems like bum tires that can be had reasonable.Tractors have good governors and lugging ability so important for mill operation.Frank C.

[Ron R.]

Finished everything on the mill today except for handling sawdust. Guess I'll just shovel it for a while until I can find me an elevator or something to handle it. It's been a long haul but it sure was nice to finally get it wrapped up. Loaded a couple of cherry logs to saw tomorrow if'n it doesn't rain. Posted some more pics in my gallery if anyone would like to see it........A special thanks to all who contributed advice, that was a big help.......................Ron

[Fla._Deadheader]

In Arkansas, I saw car rear ends used for driving dust chain. Run a belt off the mandrel, down to the rear with a pulley on the yolk. Also saw a car used as a starter motor for a Diesel engine. Start the car, let out the clutch, and spin the old starter. 

  How rustic do you want to be ???  ;D ;D :D :D

[apm]

Looking great, Ron!  All that's left is to get a roof over it and you're all set. That John Deere is going to do you proud. Wish I had that horsepower. Raking sawdust will work fine if you're not in it for "high production". The only drawback to raking around here is you end up knee deep in the sawdust with the copperheads that have burrowed into it to warm themselves. A dust chain becomes a priority after a few of those type encounters.

Greg

[Ron R.]

--glad we don't have copperhead problems around here. I thinking on the line of an old grain unloading auger. I should be able to find one at a farm sale this fall. I'm hoping to find at least a 6 in. or maybe 8 inch auger. With no more sawing than I will do it should handle the sawdust with no problem......................Ron

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Ron Top Job on the Mill looking pretty neat there Mate  ;) ;D 8) 8)
the auger will work a treat we had a dust chain under the Flat top B/down 56' saw and breast bench with a 36" saw in them that feed in to a 6" by 20' auger in a little mill I worked at when i was about 22yo the auger kept up with both saws running Aron the owner had cut the top half of the auger pipe for about 6' so chunks could be ejected instead of binding up the auger but a bit mesh over the infeed of the auger should do the job  ;) ;D

With the snakes the browns kick th rabbits outa their borrow and the tigers just live with em to keep warm same goes under log an timber piles that are left there too long  ;)

Reguards Chris

[ANLWhip]

hey , I just wanted to log in and get to know you guys, I got an old Foley Belsaw M-14 that we just rebuilt and is up and running this past week for our first run  I will try and grab a cam and get some photos to post here.  right now we are borrowing a friends MF 180 to run it but we have a Cat D4 that were are putting a PTO on to run the mill. I been reading your posts here for a bit and you guys have great advice and believe me I need all I can get

[bandmiller2]

ANLwhip welcome,glad to hear anouther belsaw is back on line.The D4 should do fine they have alot of torque and good governors.Keep us posted,you must explain your handle.Frank C.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

and welcome to the forum ANLwhip  ;) ;D 8) We've got another circ fan and its good you decided to come on in Mate  ;) :D ;D ;D ;D 8) 8)

Chris

[Ron R.]

ANLwhip, welcome to the forum. I'm fairly new here myself but you'll find a great bunch of sawyers on here and full of great advice. Just got a m-14 up and running myself. Got a few finishing touches left to do but nothing major. Tooo dog-gone hot to saw right now here(especially since I don't have a mill shed). Weather cools a little I am going to start sawing out my mill shed and hopefully get the mill covered before winter. Post some pics and let us know what area of the country you're in....Best of luck................................Ron

[Ron R.]

Finished up some safety issues today. Installed an emergency shut-off cable to the tractor pto. Installed screen wire to hopefully knock down some of the dust. Posted some pics in my gallery of these so it might help someone else with safety. Noticed there are more and more Belsaw users coming on the forum so might be of some help to them......Ron

[Tripp]

I like your off bearing end. The boards are sitting up high so you don't have to bend over so far when removing them.

Tripp

[apm]

You've got things looking great, Ron. You're going to have all kinds of fun now! ;D

[bandmiller2]

Ron,good to see the flak screen and a place to hide,and its wise to be able to cut power to the blade quickly.What works good for screen is what they use in front of fire places either the chainmail stuff or heavy screen sections.Best place I've found to mount it is from a roof rafter just your side of the saw so it won't hit the teeth when it swings,it absorbes the impact and keeps the little stuff out of your face.Years ago I worked in a bakery we had chainmail type conveyer chain for glazing donuts perfect for screen wish I still had some.Frank C.

[Ron R.]

well guys, finished sawing post for my shop and mill shed this morning. I sawed all my post out of cedar and cut them 4x6's. I found out it takes quiet a big cedar to get more than 2 post at that size. Good thing I didn't try 6 bys. Any how now it's on to sawing plates and rafters and I really looking forward to seeing how the little mill handles it. My brother brought over a white oak log that was 26 inches through and I found out it was almost too much for my little mill. Don't believe I'll try sawing one that size again. Too much trouble to turn and my 40 inch blade just isn't large enough to make the cuts without using a chainsaw to finish. Maybe being a greenhorn at sawing is part of the problem. :-\.               Ron

[apm]

Great news, Ron. You may have that thing covered before winter. On a 26" log, it's much easier in the long run to split it in half with a chainsaw then mill the halves. You'll still get a pile of lumber, but lots less turning, burying the saw, jamming the splitter in the uncompleted kerf, etc. I usually make one pass with a chain saw the length of the log, then if it's good grain, split it the rest of the way off with wedges. 20-30 minutes well spent.

Greg

[bandmiller2]

Many times a oversized log can be handled if all the nubs are cut off along with the butt flair,but usally their more trouble than their worth.Frank C.

[Tripp]

I have found that 20 inch plus logs with a 40 inch blade will give you quite a workout. Once you get them squared up they are a joy to cut. My max cut is around 15 inches with my mill. I think Quartering or halving with a chainsaw on large logs (especially hardwoods) may be the answer. I see a big saw with a ripping chain in my future! Gun barreling is also an option but it is a lot of work.

Tripp

[Ron R.]

Tripp, Thought about the gun barrelling method but decided that might be for more experienced sawyers. Halving with a chainsaw might be a better option. Anyhow, this is a slab holder I built to handle my slabs to cut into firewood. (I'm gonna try to insert a pic :-\) 

. I think I did it...................................................................Ron

[htpd43]

hi ron
looks great - nice work.  just wondering if you wouldn't mind giving me a rough idea of how much the mill cost you.  not counting the cost of set up/material.  i would love to get my hands on something like that, but nj isn't exactly a hotbed of sawmilling.   :(