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newbie parbuckling question

Started by skinnyest, June 04, 2013, 01:22:56 PM

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skinnyest

Hi im new around here so please forgive me if I do something wrong.Im getting ready to build a small trailer to get logs out of peoples yards without(hopefully)causing too much damage.The trailer I got is a small 5 ton running gear apx 5 feet wide and 10 feet long.My plans are to build a frame type deck on it,put stake pockets down both sides.Then I plan on having 2 2500lbs hand crank winches on posts that will fit into the stake pockets,that way I can pull from different spots depending on the size of the log.On the other side I want to have 2 steel ramps(also adjustable) to pull the logs up on.The things that concern me what are the chances of the wagon trying to flip over since it is only 5 feet wide?I can lock the ramps into place so they would be ramps/stableizers.Just wondering if this is worth it.Another question,to me it seems better to have 2 winches to kind of walk a log up the ramps and not having to worry about balanceing the log in the middle.Ive seen a couple dozen videos of parbuckling systems online but none have 2 winches.Any suggestions are welcome thanks

flyboy16101

Skinnyest welcome to the forum. Have you tried a search for par-buckling, there is quite a few threads about it on here, as for your questions. I have loaded a few large logs and a lot of medium sized (12"-24") logs and I have never had an issue with my trailer trying to roll over but it is a little over 7' feet wide. Not sure how well the 2 winches would work as I have never tried or scene it. What works well for me is I have an electric winch on the front of the trailer and little pieces of about 4 links of chain welded every 2 feet or so down the side rails to attach a pulley and chains too. The chain attaches on the side I am loading on with the winch cable hooked in the center and I move the pulley and chain ends to adjust for log tapper and size before I start (Takes a little practice but I'm getting decent at judging where to connect everything). As for your ramp question I use 2 pieces of 2"x6"x6' steel tubing with one end notched that just rest against the sides. The notch helps a little to keep the trailer from tipping once weight is on the ramps.
Wood-mizer Lt35, International 504 w/ loader, Hough HA Payloader, Stihl Ms290, Ms660, LogRite Cant Hook

Ljohnsaw

Also, someone had described or provided a picture of how to rig with one winch. Run a length of cable or chain from front to rear on your trailer on the log/ramp side. Make the length long enough that when pulled at the center, it reaches a couple feet past your winch. Now, lay it down the ramp side and run the winch cable over the log, back under it and connect to the apex of the vee cable/chain. As you pull the log up the ramp, the vee gives better support to the log. Hope this makes sence.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

justallan1

Welcome to the forum, Skinnyest.
I learned the way ljohnsaw describes here on the forestry forum and it works great. If you are concerned with it flipping you may want to just load a smaller log first and put it on the same side as the winch until you are comfortable with what it's going to do.

Allan

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum,    skinnyest.   :)

My setup is not perfect by any means because of the sides on the trailer, but it has not failed to load logs.  I have a 8K Mile Marker winch mounted on the front of the trailer.  Reinforcement angle iron and a short length of chain and hook on each side of the trailer so that I can load from either side.  There is no need for two winches because the chain that attached to the front and back of the trailer equalizes the log as it climbs up the ramps.


 


  


 


 


 
I needed to put old tires in the trailer bed to cushion the fall before loading that 42" Red Oak.   :-\
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

dboyt

Welcome to the forum, Skinnyest.  Only thing you can do "wrong" is not ask the question on your mind, or offering advice when you have experience that would help another member.

MM, that log had to come down with quite a "thump".

The risk of turning the trailer over depends on where the ramps attach.  As long as the ramps are over the wheels or inboard of them, it will be impossible to turn the trailer over.  Try it with a single winch first.  You'll probably conclude that it is easier to just back the log down the ramp, adjust the angle, and try again than it is to set up a second winch line.

I have an electric winch, but usually use a chain saw powered Lewis winch & 6" x 6" wood ramps (oak).  Also, set up your line so that the winch side goes over the top of the log.  It rolls easier that way. :D



 
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

Tree Feller

I use a set-up very similar to Magicman's except my electric winch is only rated at 3000 lbs. I've found that is plenty since it is rolling the logs and not lifting them. My utility trailer is only 5' wide x 13' long (inside meas.) and I've never had any problem with it trying to tip over.
Cody

Logmaster LM-1 Sawmill
Kioti CK 30 w/ FEL
Stihl MS-290 Chainsaw
48" Logrite Cant Hook
Well equipped, serious, woodworking shop

Sixacresand

hi,  I load logs exactly like Dboyt and Magicman.  I use a 12K winch that I bought on sale at harbor frieght.  I can see where using two winches could be helpful at times.  Its just double the mass of cable and chains to handle.   As far as stability of the trailer. It seems that once a log starts up the ramp, the trailer becomes very stable.  Before the winch I used to unhook the trailer from the truck, chock the wheels  and hook the cable to truck bumper to parbuck the log.  Somebody commented on putting tires in the trailer to cushion the log when it drops.  Also know where the dog is before it drops.
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

Jemclimber

Welcome Skinnyest,

If you're loading logs, one winch centered or the way MM does it will be better.  If you're loading large yard wood, (notice I didn't say log ;D) 2 winches will be very beneficial to walk it up straight.  For me loading a large silver maple in one piece is much faster than cutting it up into pieces and dealing with all the extra mess of cutting it up.  Oftentimes, one chunk of a yard tree is a full load that weighs 3 to 4 tons, and two winches to help the wood stay straight especially when one end may be 36" and the other end of a 16 foot long piece maybe 50" where it starts to branch out.  It also helps when one end is very egg shaped and the other end is round, you can crank on one end to keep the piece straight. I have removed quite a few 36" to 50" trees from front and back yards and handling the large wood is the biggest hassle and time consuming part of the job.  Show us a picture of your set up cause we love pictures.
lt15

skinnyest

Thanks to all that replied,in my real job Im a towboat capt.,I live on a boat for 2 weeks then get a week off.Im tryong to start a small sawmill/lumberyard on my off time with hopes of it becoming my full time job.I just got back on the boat,dureing my time off I ran into a lot more problems than expected on the trailer.Mostley it was tracking down steel and the right tools.I was hopeing to have it done and a test run or two done with it.It is a little more than half way there I do expect it do be done the next time im home except for the paint job,im just gonna primer it for now and paint it in the off season.Im not the greatest on the computer but ill try and get some pics up next time im home.

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