LT-35 Flat Cuts - Seeking Verification on Technical Adjustments

[TBrown99]

I recently spoke with WoodMizer tech support about some issues with my LT-35H and would like to get confirmation from the community about whether these technical recommendations are valid.

First point: I learned from WoodMizer that the saw head rail comes from the factory with a slight angled peak in the middle area. Tech support said this is an intentional design feature because the tire is in the way of where a center outrigger might go. They recommended going one click higher on the front outrigger to bend the main structural beam slightly, resulting in a flat rail. I tried this and it seemed to work. Is this a legitimate factory design feature and solution?

Second point: My cuts have two consistent spans of wave patterns (undulations less than 1/16" deep), each about 24 inches long and positioned 3-4 feet apart from each other. I had already addressed all other common causes of wavy cuts, including testing with a new blade. Despite this, WoodMizer tech told me this amount of wave is within acceptable tolerances. Does this match others' experience with the acceptable tolerance levels? (I did not test speeding up cut speed though I go moderately fast.)

Third point: Despite what the manual states about aligning the red rubber stopper with the alignment bolt, tech support advised going 1/8" tighter and disregarding the manual instruction. Has anyone else received similar guidance that contradicts the manual?

I'd appreciate any feedback from experienced LT-35 owners on whether these technical recommendations align with your experience.

Thanks,

[TreefarmerNN]

Even though I've had an old LT30 for decades the tech advice is new to me.  Next time I get a chance I'm going to put a laser on the top and bottom rails and see if there is any bend in them.  I suspect not but perhaps the newer models were made with a slight bend. In my case, I'm not sure I would buy the tech comment as the log weight is on the two main log supports and that's where the jacks provide the most support.  A laser will tell you if the bend is there. 

As far as your long pattern wave, it seems like it could be a harmonic between the engine, pulleys and blade.  Or it could be as simple as a very slight build up of crud on the rails.  A 1/16th wave isn't much as the cant will frequently flex that much or more as you cut.  To me, anything less than 1/8" will come out with the planer.  1/8" or more isn't acceptable as that means a deep planer cut or two passes which takes time.

One thing I have learned is adjustments on these saws are interconnected, i.e. changing A requires also changing B.  For that reason, I try to make any adjustments in the order in my manual as I've chased my tail doing things out of order. 

[SawyerTed]

@TBrown99 what Woodmizer told you aligns with my experience. 

The crown in the mill I compensate for by tensioning the two end outriggers first then the four middle ones get put down so they firmly touch the ground but carry little weight until a log is loaded.  With the LT35 that meant digging or blocking for the middle ones.

Usually I lower the front outrigger, move the head over it.  Then I lower the rear outrigger and move the head over it.  If needed I repeat before lowering the middle outriggers. 

Blade oscillation occurs when blade speed varies slightly.   That blade speed variation may occur at the start of a cut, when the blade hits a harder area or if feed speed varies. Drive belt tension needs to be correct. 

Blade oscillation appears as angled washboard looking ridges.  They might seem random with smooth sections in between. 

Oscillation marks the length of a board means check guide bearings. 

A tooth out of set appears as regularly spaced ridges the entire length of the board.  

Teeth out of set and blade oscillation don't cause any substantial thickness variations in boards but is a surface annoyance. 

Slightly more blade tension improves the cut but a little goes a long way.   I think I've started seeing more blade stretch with longer, newer blades than I did with my LT35. 

[GAB]

Usually I lower the front outrigger, move the head over it.  Then I lower the rear outrigger and move the head over it.  If needed I repeat before lowering the middle outriggers.

Sawyer Ted:
I lower the rear outrigger first to approx. 2" from making contact with the ground or blocking.  I learned after I did not do that and the rear of the mill went to the ground as I was raising the head and I had an LT40 that from a side view looked like a howitzer and I looked at that and scratched my head saying what do I do now.
What you wrote is not wrong, but make sure the head does not go towards the rear of the beam as it may cause you a delay in starting to saw.
GAB

[SawyerTed]

That's right, maybe my brevity was misleading.

I lower both front and rear outriggers, front on the ground, the rear near the ground.   Move the head over the front, tension the rear outrigger,  move the head over the rear outrigger and tension the front. 

The rear outrigger does prevent the tongue from going into the howitzer position.  

The greater point being the front and rear outriggers carry the bulk of the weight of the mill along with the wheels and tires until a log is loaded. 

[TBrown99]

Regarding the long wave cut issue, I believe I need to evaluate how the engine is running. While it is very subtle, I sense some possible unsteadiness in the (?) power delivery. I did have a serious engine problem this winter when I found that the fuel pump had failed with gas leaking into the engine oil compartment. I was very late to catch this... when finally the engine started cutting out mid-cut. I changed the fuel pump and refreshed the oil and everything seems okay. But diagnostics are likely still in order as someone here recommended back then. But not after I evaluate a bit more exactly how much of a problem I'm dealing with here. (Yesterday, I ran the straight edge quickly and didn't see any gap.)

[Nebraska]

Did you try a 7 degree or 4 degree blade?