Just bought a new Do-Dad.

[Larry]

Is this the clamp Larry? I looked it up and read about it. Looks like something I may order. Let us know how your work.

Yeap, that's it.  Free shipping code is V9117 but don't know when it expires.

SD, I'll have to take some pictures for ya next time I use it.

[WDH]

Just necessary for alignment.....which is very important when joining edges and joints.

Unless you like to sand interminably 

SD,  The jig cuts a pocket in one piece (like a faceframe member) that is used to screw that piece to another piece, usually at 90 degrees to each other like a face frame on a cabinet.  The jig is a wonderful tool.  I use mine all the time on almost every project in some way.

[tomsteve]

What does this Kreg tool do? Drill and screw or something? I've got a new drill press and set of screw drivers for that. Just kidding, just wanted to know what it was. ;)


it makes pocket holes.


i've tried quite a few different screws from here and there when i first got mine a few years ago. i found that some of them snapped really easy. i stick with the mcfeelys house brand and am happy with them.

[SwampDonkey]

I see Lee valley sells the Kreg K4 Master System for $139.  ;D

[Dodgy Loner]

The difference between the quality of screws that most hardware stores carry and those that you can mail-order is pretty crazy. The brands of screws that I trust are: Spax, McFeely's, and Kreg. In no particular order. They are the only manufacturers that I am aware of that that properly heat-treat their screws. And if you buy them in bulk, they are much cheaper than what you can get at most hardware stores.

Of those three brands, Home Depot is the only store I know of that carries even one. I am able to buy Spax screws there, so that's usually what I do.

[SwampDonkey]

Robertson is a trusted brand to, especially by cabinet and furniture shops. They are now made off-shore, but I have never yet broke one off in wood and I have put a lot of torque on them. They are even hard to strip the head out. Some are self drilling and some are lubricated. All made for oak, cherry and hard maple use. The self drilling are designed for any hardwood. This according to Lee Valley.

[WDH]

SD,

Order it.

[SwampDonkey]

I won't be needing it this winter with all the work I have ahead, but it's possible for next winter.  I've already spend a bunch on this hobby this winter. ;D

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

I think I'll just order screws from KREG. I have the website right here with the pocket tool.

And you're right Swamp Donkey, it don't take long to "spend out" when buying stuff like this. I got my WM Mill last Feb. and have been milling since then. Now the weather has got bad, I decided to work in the shop on some projects. I didn't realize all the stock I needed to replace just to build a simple birdhouse! $$$$$$$$

When building, stuff adds up fast and gets gone fast!  :D

[isawlogs]

 SD,
  I have this    http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=49946&cat=1,180,42311,46275,49946  its only 20$, it's all I use, a clamp or vise grip or hand held.

[SwampDonkey]

Yeah Marcel. I would have to research it a bit to see what my real needs are. The master kit comes with the whole shoot'n match and not really that expensive, considering. I really don't built this stile of cabinet, mine are dovetailed and mortised. But, I'm willing to explore it a bit. Because one thing that is coming to mind is a set of cupboards in the loom room.  ;)

[Bogue Chitto]

I have one of these.  I built a heavy table with it and it held up very well.

[WDH]

You have a loon room?  Loons are cool.  How many loons use it  ???.

[clearcut]

I've had a Kreg jig for several years and use it whenever I can hide the pocket hole. I've built cabinets, shelves, and woodworking jigs. Pocket holes work great to attach a solid wood strip to the front of plywood shelves to hide the raw plywood edge.

A couple of thoughts, clamping is the key to a tight pocket hole joint. When the screw first enters the piece being attached to the pocket hole piece, the wood will push away slightly. The glue will act as a lubricant and without proper clamping, the pieces will get misaligned.

If you are seeing the screw tip, the pocket hole depth is set too deep for the thickness of the material, or the screw is too long. The jig is designed to drive the screw to just the right depth. When you are doing a lot of pocket holes, the collar on the drill bit can slip, causing the pockets to be drilled too deep. Tighten up the collar and check the depth occasionally.

I also have the Pock-it Hole clamp from Rockler. Consider it a specialty clamp that does one thing well, clamping flush pieces at a 90° angle. It uses a pin inserted in the second or extra pocket hole as a bearing surface. If you are doing a lot of face frames, it can be a real time saver. It camps the glue surfaces well, while aligning them flush to each other. Useful but not necessary - you can use bar or pipe clamps to do the same thing and they will have additional uses.

Rockler shows it clamping an outside corner, but I cannot recall ever using it in that manner. You mostly want the holes on an inside corner.

[metalspinner]

I love my Kreg jig.  It's got to be the handiest joinery tool made.

The set I have came with three drilling jigs - one has three drill guides and is the heavy worker. The second has two drill guides and can be clamped just about anywhere.  The other is a small single drill guide that you can clamp in tight places where you forgot to put a pocket before assembly.
:
Our Lowes has a nice selection of Kreg brand screws.  They also have another more expensive brand.  Woodcraft carries the full compliment of screws through stainless steel. 

Has anyone tried the smaller Kreg jig?  That looks like it can be handy for very narrow and thinner projects.

[SwampDonkey]

Sounds like the master system, did it come with the face frame clamp?

I see they also have a Kreg deck jig.
There is also a separate right angle clamp. Looks like it goes in a  pocket hole.

[metalspinner]

The clamp in my set is a locking pair of plyers with a large round bearing face on each jaw.  It does a good job of keeping the faces aligned.

The clamp shown earlier looks really nice.  I'll haveto look into that one.

[WDH]

Chris,

I, too, have had very good luck with the locking clamp that comes with the jig.  I have never had a reason for getting another type clamp for face frames.

[Larry]

Rockler Pock-It jig review.

Got a chance to try it out last night.  The jig has a white nylon dowel which goes in the pocket hole.  First try and it wouldn't bottom out in the hole.  Kept the black jig part above the wood which caused it to rock a bit.  Tried drilling my hole a little deeper but the dowel still wouldn't bottom out.  Cut about 1/8" off the dowel and it worked as intended.

The clamp knob is quite small so it was hard to apply much pressure.  I use glue (yea, I know end grain) and like to see a bit of squeeze out.   I like to clamp all four corners, especially on bigger face frames with intermediate stiles so that I can check square by measuring diagonals.  Would need another two Pock-It jigs to do that, plus they would be right in the way of measuring on the corners.

While the jig worked as advertized, plain clamps are faster, easier, and more precise.  I suspect my Pock-It jig may end up in a dark corner of the shop never to see the light of day.







In case anybody is wondering the frame's are to support the edge of a corner bathtub.  They will be overlaid with a PVC face frame with a ceramic tile panel to match the floor.  Wonder how the Kreg jig will work with PVC?  Guess I'll find out.

[WDH]

I never liked the idea of using a pocket hole as a clamping point, so I refrained from getting this clamp.  Seemed awkward from looking at the pictures of the clamp.  After your review, I know now that I will not get it.  I have never had any issues with getting nice tight joints with the requisite squeeze out (yes, I too glue the end grain  ) using the clamp supplied with the pocket hole jig.

[isawlogs]

I never thought much of the clamp for the pocket hole. I figure I could put a screw in there and it would tighten the joint up. When final assembly comes around I take it apart and use glue on the end grain put the screws back in.

[WDH]

It never hurts to put some glue on the end grain.  Kinda like belt and suspenders  ;D.