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Sawing hardwood flooring

Started by lmo506, October 24, 2020, 05:46:34 AM

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lmo506

Hi folks, 
I have some white ash that i want to mill into flooring. Ive been looking for info on the best way to saw it but i keep coming up empty handed . Can someone point me to some info? Or do i cut a slab off and a couple 5/4 boards and turn ,repeat till its square to 6 " and then cut all 5/4 boards off? Ive sawed lots of softwood but hardly any hardwood . Thanks in advance
I have never pretended to be anything I'm not, except sober, I've pretended to be sober a few times

kantuckid

For starters, many Victorian age homes have ash floors which have wider boards than a typical modern hardwood floor. I think they run ~ 5" finished width, unlike the more commonly seen narrow oak/maple flooring. Heart pine flooring is also seen in wider pieces. 
How is the wood to be dried?
How wide is the finished flooring wood? 
How will it be T&G'ed? 
Quarter sawed or plain sawed? 
In my own home all non-bedrooms and bath rooms are wide oak floors. They are wide boards so obviously they move seasonally and gaps as would be expected. In the end they look OK in what is a rustic log and timber frame addition building.

Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Magicman

I am presently sawing 1 1/8"X6" Red Oak flooring & ceiling but my sawing is the same as what I do with Ash.  I saw side lumber from each side of the log until I reach my targeted 6" center cant.  I then saw through for about 1/3 of that cant before I rotate 180° and continue sawing.  I am leaving a 4X6 pith centered beam.  The side lumber is then edged.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

DDW_OR

I will also be doing hardwood flooring
Oak
Maple
Madrona

Magicman
is this how you cut
with #19 being the 4X6 pith centered beam


 
"let the machines do the work"

Magicman

Yes, but you gotta watch the log/cant and if it shows signs of stress being relieved you gotta change your sawing sequence or whatever else to prevent thick-n-thin boards.  Each log/cant is an individual unto itself so sawing is not a one size fits all.  That plus the pith check has to be identified and taken into account during your initial log setup.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Weekend_Sawyer

On my manual mill and using DDW_OR's diagram
I would cut 1,2,3 turn 90 deg
Cut 9, 10 turn 90
cut 4,5,6 turn 90
Cut 7,8,15,16 on through unless I see stress then flip 90

Jon
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

DDW_OR

thank you.
the drawing is only for reference of how an ideal log would be cut.

I am still a "green" slab cutter, still have to learn how to deal with signs of stress being relieved.


"let the machines do the work"

DDW_OR

Quote from: Weekend_Sawyer on October 26, 2020, 01:22:54 PM
On my manual mill and using DDW_OR's diagram
I would cut 1,2,3 turn 90 deg
Cut 9, 10 turn 90
cut 4,5,6 turn 90
Cut 7,8,15,16 on through unless I see stress then flip 90

Jon
yes, your way would give more floor boards
updated number cuts in red
then take slab 3 & 6 to make boards a,b,c,d,e,f
then slabs 2 & 5 to make boards g,h,i,j

if the slabs are wide enough to make the boards



 
"let the machines do the work"

Trackerbuddy

My house is a 5 window federal in Southwest Ohio.  The courthouse burned in 1837 so we say it was built in 1837.
The floors are original and are made of quarter sawn Ash. Some mixed widths with the majority of the boards around 6-7 inches. 
I would take the time to quarter saw. Hard to do on a horizontal band Mill but worth the time

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