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Building my mill...

Started by Kbeitz, April 17, 2015, 07:04:07 PM

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Kbeitz

Quote from: Peter Drouin on May 26, 2017, 09:12:47 PM
With some set and sharpen the blade will cut.
Why is ash so bad?

You need to drill every hole to get a nail in. 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

fishfighter

Just like oak once it dries out. :o DanG nails will bounce off. :o

Kbeitz

Ok... Time to add something new. I think the best thing I could do to improve
my mill is a way to tell how tight that I have my band. This is what I come up with.

My old way to tighten the blade.



 

My yet to be new way...



 

I just bought these two items off E-bay to do the job. I sure hope it works.
The Hollow Ram was not cheap.



 



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

DDW_OR

"let the machines do the work"

Kbeitz

Quote from: DDW_OR on September 16, 2017, 01:24:03 AM
similar to how mine is

 

 

Great... So it will work... Now I'm happy.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

ladylake


I'd get a spring in there, a lot easier on the blade and keeps the tension even.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Kbeitz

Quote from: ladylake on September 16, 2017, 07:53:19 AM

I'd get a spring in there, a lot easier on the blade and keeps the tension even.  Steve

I have no spring now and never had a problem.
I would think a spring would really shock the system when a band breaks.
But I could see how a spring could help if a band got hot and stretched
a little.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Crusarius

But is it good to have the spring keep tightening when the blade is stretching? That is a telltale sign it is getting to warm and may be getting dull.

I can see the spring being a nice feature but at the same time see it being bad.

Kbeitz

I got a question... The cly has a 2" piston. What will I be looking for in PSi on the
gauge when I tighten the band? Just wondering if someone is good with math could
give me a clue. What I'm going to do is to put this tool on my blade the first time
and set it up with that. Then I'll take my reading. I normally  don't use this tool.
I just tighten the band and push on it until I think it feels right.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ljohnsaw

Not enough information to say for sure.  With the cylinder of 2", it will give you 3.14 times the PSI's worth of force on the blade.  What tension is supposed to be on the blade? 

Conversely, what is the distance between the stops on the gauge you have there?  Depending on the blade you have (thickness and width) there is a formula for how much it should stretch.  The .005" on the picture will be for one particular blade size.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

1-1/4 X .42 Blades. 4" between clamps.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 08:34:36 PM
1-1/4 X .42 Blades. 2-1/2" between clamps.

So now you only need to look up somewhere what the tension should be and what the stretch coefficient is for that size blade.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 16, 2017, 08:44:12 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 08:34:36 PM
1-1/4 X .42 Blades. 4" between clamps.

So now you only need to look up somewhere what the tension should be and what the stretch coefficient is for that size blade.

I did that last year and that's why I have it marked as 0.005
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Larry

No need to figure anything.  Multiply the number on the dial times 10,000 and that gives you strain.  Most band manufactures want from 18,000 to 27,000 psi.  24,000 is a good number and will be 2.4 on your gauge.

There is more to the gauge than meets the eye.  A calculated distant from the pivot
pin to the dial indicator plunger.

I made a hydraulic plunger a while back on the lathe.  Its easy to make but takes a long time to figure out the proper squish on the "O" rings.  Parker has an excellent engineering handbook online which covers everything you would want to know but it is difficult for me to read/understand.  Google Parker O ring handbook if your interested.  Another way to either learn or waste an afternoon.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 09:00:48 PM
Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 16, 2017, 08:44:12 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 08:34:36 PM
1-1/4 X .42 Blades. 4" between clamps.

So now you only need to look up somewhere what the tension should be and what the stretch coefficient is for that size blade.
I did that last year and that's why I have it marked as 0.005
OK, got it.  So just put it on the blade the first time and pump it up until you get it.  Then remember/write down that PSI setting and you're golden!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Kbeitz

Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 16, 2017, 10:45:57 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 09:00:48 PM
Quote from: ljohnsaw on September 16, 2017, 08:44:12 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 16, 2017, 08:34:36 PM
1-1/4 X .42 Blades. 4" between clamps.

So now you only need to look up somewhere what the tension should be and what the stretch coefficient is for that size blade.
I did that last year and that's why I have it marked as 0.005
OK, got it.  So just put it on the blade the first time and pump it up until you get it.  Then remember/write down that PSI setting and you're golden!

That's what I'm hoping for...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

Waiting for my gauge to come.
I got a low pressure gauge in the hole to keep dirt and the bees out.
I can't wait to try it out...




 



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

William1961

This is what I am going to use.
Bought it on sale and will be using the ram.
There is also a small ram about 3 inches tall 3 inches in diameter.
So I have 2 choices but would like to use heavy duty springs.
Until I can source the springs and what size the hydraulic will be a simple solution.

 

Kbeitz

Search for die springs. They list the poundage.
Dose your ram have a hollow center ?
A little air in your ram will act like a spring.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

William1961

Both rams have a flat face.

Kbeitz

Quote from: William1961 on September 19, 2017, 08:22:27 PM
Both rams have a flat face.

A hollow cly makes it easy to put a threaded rod through it to the part
that needs pulled back.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kbeitz

I got two more inches of shaft sticking out in my line of travel.
I'm thinking I'll need to get use to this. I use the shaft to hold on to
while the head pulls me along. I never walked in to the old shaft but
I did get fairly close to it a few time with the tractor wheel.
I'll just have to keep an eye on it. I wanted to mount it on the back side
but that also where my motor belt adjustment is at. I was looking for a
smaller stroke but at $$$$.00 each I chose to buy this one at $80.00 off
E-bay. I'll keep watching for a smaller one. I can always find another use
for this BIG one.

Prices are crazy on these cly's.



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

William1961

Pictures of my Hydraulic pump and 4 ton ram that I paid about $100.
This was purchased here in Canada at Princess Auto.
The 4 ton ram is about 2 inches tall and 2 inches round so it will fit perfect.
In the U.S check out Harbour freight for something like this.
I found it under auto body work tools.

  

 

Kbeitz

Googleing I found this ...

A 1.25 inch blades recommends 2300psi from a one inch
diameter hydraulic cylinder.

My blades is 1.25 but my cylinder is two inches.
I know you just cant half it but I don't know how to
math it out.

Can anyone help?


Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Hilltop366

The area of the 1" cylinder is .79 sq inches and the 2" is 3.14 about 4 times as much.

I guess if you think about it you can almost get 4 one inch circles in a two inch circle.

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