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Husqvarna 359 aftermarket carburetor issues

Started by pinehillstacker, March 08, 2021, 07:23:06 PM

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pinehillstacker

Hi all, I have a Husqvarna 359 that I just installed a Kipa carburetor on to get it running again.  It starts good and seems to have decent power right out of the box, but I cannot get it to idle down.  I can turn the T screw all the way out, it will shut the saw off, but I can't get it to idle down to where the chain will quit spinning.  
I've tried adjusting the L screw to see if the idle mix was off, it seems like I am not getting much adjustment out of it.  I can turn it the whole way out or the whole way in, it will run differently enough that I can hear a difference but still won't slow the saw down to make the chain stop spinning.

Did I lose this gamble with an aftermarket carburetor or is there something else I should be looking for to get it to idle?  Thanks for the help.  Si
Lonely Oaks Timber - custom sawing, logging

donbj

Don't know anything about those carbs but why not put a complete rebuilt kit in your original? Is something restricting the throttle shaft from sitting all the way down?
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Tacotodd

Trying harder everyday.

pinehillstacker

Quote from: donbj on March 08, 2021, 07:37:31 PM
Don't know anything about those carbs but why not put a complete rebuilt kit in your original? Is something restricting the throttle shaft from sitting all the way down?
The saw had an aftermarket carb on it when I bought it.  No issues with the throttle linkage.
Lonely Oaks Timber - custom sawing, logging

DHansen

Quote from: Tacotodd on March 08, 2021, 07:44:56 PM
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
I agree, look for someplace it is getting extra air from.  If your throttle is closed and it is still idling above specification, then it is getting air from somewhere.  L screw is a trim device for slow speed mixture.  Is there no mixture limiter stops on the replacement carburetor?  If no limiters on the mixture screws, you may be able to screw it all the way in, but if the idle is too high, it will be getting some fuel from the main metering.

pinehillstacker

I'll inspect it a little better and see if I can find the air leak.  I'll let you all know what I find out.  Thank you for your help!
Lonely Oaks Timber - custom sawing, logging

Guydreads

Doesn't sound to me like carb issues. I bet you're missing a clutch spring. Though after re reading it's possible it is not one. To me, the fact that you can shut it off with the "t" screw tells me the saw gets low enough in rpms especially since the idle screw has NOTHING to do with mixture. I don't know though. Easy enough to check, just look at your clutch and see if you have loose or a missing spring.

Tacotodd

Trying harder everyday.

Fishnuts2

Any 359 needs to have the intake boot checked/changed to the metal band type.  Also, check the little impulse line on the boot for leaks.  I suspect this could be why the original carb was swapped out.  Just my 2 cent guess.

pinehillstacker

To update everyone, I basically pulled all the intake and the cylinder off the saw to try to find the air leak.  Didn't find anything obvious, so I ordered all new intake parts including the metal clamp for the intake boot.  The piston and top of the cylinder were covered in wet black soot, and it looks like it was trying to burn a hole in the top of the piston, because I have a small indent in the top of the piston as well.  So, also ordered a new piston.

When I put this back together, what are the factory carb adjustments so I have a baseline I can start from?

Thanks again for all the advice, it's saving me some money over taking the saw to the shop all the time.
Lonely Oaks Timber - custom sawing, logging

Real1shepherd

1 1/4 turns out on both and then fine tune from there.

Kevin

Spike60

Don't forget to change that little impulse line underneith the intake boot. Don't use the old one. Often a loose fit on an older saw.
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pinehillstacker

Changing the impulse line and fuel lines next.  Gonna have the whole saw rebuilt soon. :D 8)  Its been a great learning experience though.
Lonely Oaks Timber - custom sawing, logging

mike_belben

Read the tuning section on madsens saw shop web site.  Its all in the ear.
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Real1shepherd

Nice to double check your ears with a decent tach and what the saw is supposed to run at unloaded.

When I first got my tach, I checked everything I set by ears and they were right on the money...maybe just a tad lean, but that's for pro use and keeping the bar always buried.

On a Tilly equipped saw with no air leaks, the average weekend warrior should be 1-1 1/4 turns out on HIGH and  1 1/4-1 1/2 turns out on LOW. With no air leaks and a good oil mix, you'll be fine to cut all day.

Kevin


Mad Professor

I'd have checked the clutch, if O.K., then a pressure and vacuum test to find air leak.  Test fuel line too.

One other thought, junk in the low circuit of the carb making it lean

DHansen

Does the saw sound like it is idling too fast?  Or does the idle speed sound normal and the clutch is dragging or engaged?   Do you start the saw with the chain brake on?  

Real1shepherd

Quote from: Mad Professor on May 05, 2021, 12:09:29 AM
I'd have checked the clutch, if O.K., then a pressure and vacuum test to find air leak.  Test fuel line too.

One other thought, junk in the low circuit of the carb making it lean
Is it possible just to find a good, used OE carb and using an USC, put in a complete kit? That absolutely rules out the carb. Although I still favor an air leak somewhere........

In a small engine forum I belong to, guys have driven themselves insane trying to tinker along aftermarket carbs sometimes....just sayin'.

Kevin

pinehillstacker

I'll try to answer all the questions in one shot haha.  I got a tach to check my idle, its idling over 4000, which from what I've read, it's supposed to be idling around 2700.  I don't start the saw with the brake on.  I've replaced all the intake components and gaskets, so after fuel and impulse lines, if I can't get the carb to tune, I'm going to find an OEM carb and quit fooling around.  Thanks again for all the input and advice, I appreciate it.
Lonely Oaks Timber - custom sawing, logging

DHansen

Thanks for the update.  Tach data was very helpful.  Nice to have data and clues when diagnosis is being performed online.  Good accurate information is a big help.  Sounds to me that you are on the right track.  

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