Those wonderfull old Husqvarna's...model 61 Ranchers thru 272XP's

[Al_Smith]

On the subject of the older 99 cc Huskys I can only speak from experience of the 2100 which i own one .It's certainly got enough power in fact prior to the 3120 Husqvarna was the choice for race saws .It's a classic .
They are rated for a long bar but in Ohio the 32" I have would cover just about anything .We have  4 feet oak trees but not 7 foot Douglas firs and more times than not a 32" is over kill .I thought mine might have been modified but a recent compression check showed 165 PSI so perhaps not or not too much . .

[Tacotodd]

Bob, I'm taking it that you've played with them before, or at least been part of Walt's rabbit hole voyage  say_what

[Spike60]

Todd, my saws in this family are it's own collection within a collection. Have at least one of each model starting with the 165SE and built a couple oddballs like the 672, a white top 61 with a 266xp top end, stuff like that. Easy to work on and fun to run. You have any?

[Tacotodd]

Bob, I took the transfers off of a burned piston and cylinder combination from my 372 and put them on my 365, I also have an echo CS55OP with 54.1cc.  Those three saws are all that I have.
Can you say more about that 672 that you have?

[weimedog]

Here's my 262XP I bought new in 96. All original except the bar. It seems to like a 20" bar the best.

Very nice with original "paper" as well. Nice to see saws with history  

[weimedog]

Bob, I took the transfers off of a burned piston and cylinder combination from my 372 and put them on my 365, I also have an echo CS55OP with a 54.1 cylinder. Those three saws are all that I have.
Can you say more about that 672 that you have?

What is a 54.1 cylinder

[Tacotodd]

Sorry. 54.1cc. I've fixed the misleading post.

[Mountain_d]

@Mountain_d, Those saws are all from the same family, so any tools you buy will cover the lot. Seal tools are nice, and not expensive. The important tool on those saws is the guide sleeve when sliding the oil pump/seal assembly on. Eliminates the chances of the spring dropping out of the seal. It's only a couple bucks and worth it. I'll drop in tomorrow with a couple of part numbers.

OEM top ends are limited to the 61, 268 open port and the 272XP, which is the obvious choice for that 266. I put a 272 kit on my 266 and it really rips. You could put a 272 kit on any of them including the Jonny. I turned a 625 into a "672". The knock off parts are hit and miss. In most cases the saw will run and cut wood, but even the ones that are OK still fall way short of OEM performance without alterations. In most cases, you have to delete the gasket in order to have any decent compression. Any more questions, this is the place to ask.

Spike60, thanks for the info. I will wait for the parts numbers. Any suggestions for places to order parts / speciality tools online?
Mountain

[Spike60]

Todd, the 672 was a pretty straight forward project. The chassis was in good shape and the 625 top end was OK in fact. But back then there was a wider performance gap between the 625/61 and the 670/272 than there is today with say a 555/562 or 565/572. I wasn't going to run it much as a 625, and since Jonsered never got a 52mm saw on that chassis, I figured I'd even the score by building myself a "672".

The only alterations needed were to the intake. Both the 625 and the 670 used an intake boot and were pulsed by an impulse line from the cylinder. So, I got myself a 268/272 impulse block, carb screws and gaskets. I stuck with the 625 carb as it was fine, but I needed to drill a hole so it could now be impulsed through the block. Easy to do as the spot for the hole is already cast into the carb block. In the OP's case, comparing it to the carb from his 266 will show how east this is. Then you need to either plug the impulse nipple on top of the carb or get the top from another HS carb that doesn't have one.

I know that some guys get worked up about jet and venturi siizes, but the saw runs quite well with the original 625 carb. And another important consideration is that the Jonnys and Huskys used different methods of setting the high idle. The huskys all used a thumb latch on the fuel tank to set the high idle. The Jonnys all used the choke lever to set the high idle just like most saws do today. So, using the 625 carb just kept the project simple.

All in all there's plenty of options to keep all these saws running for a long time, and they are definitely worth the effort. Only limitations are some plastic pieces, such as top covers for the earlier twin coil Huskys such as the 266 and gray top 61's. The problem is of course a lot worse on the Jonsered side as most of the external parts are NLA. So the time tested rule is to always try and start with a complete saw.

[Huntingstoneboy]

So long time reader first time posting. First i want to say great thread!!! Shout out to Bob and Walt....great videos and appreciate all the knowledge....also Sawtroll...although not sure of his real name. So my new addiction this winter was buying cheap old saws and doing some woods porting and rebuild. great learning experience and helps pass the winter doldrum. To date i have done a 372xp, 262, 261 to a 262, 268 to 272, 394, 372xt, jonsered 670 champ, stihl 460 and a couple 026s. last week i snagged a 1983 266se that was a low hour saw, lent out to another neighbor and straight gassed. $20....how could i say no? Got it totally stripped, seals, bearings and crank are good....passed pressure and vacuum. Got all the transfer out of the cylinder...little muratic acid and a lot of elbow grease. New meteor piston...gonna throw a wheel on it tonight...prolly raise exhaust and lower intake a little....widen everything, base gasket delete, muffler mod. I also just put a kit in a tilly hs 224 im gonna slap on it. Sorry for being so long winded but to my question...it has the old white top in decent shape and i hate to cut holes in it to promote air flow to intake. i was thinking of drilling a 3/8 or 1/2" hole in the case right behind the idle screw towards the flywheel. Essentially creating a turbo efffect. I tried googling this and could find nothing. has this been done before? What would be the downside beside sawdust being pushed into intake compartment. most turbos are designed this way, so don't see this as a negative. any thoughts are welcomed. 

[Guydreads]

Man, I thought I had gotten into saws this fall/winter during lockdown. I'm just starting 😆😆😆. I've never tried porting, base gasket delete or anything, but I know I've had fun, first with a Partner 500, then Jonsered 2150 Turbo, doing crank seals on both, muffler replacements/aftermarket (aka China) performance muffler to the 2150, carb kit to the Partner, cleaning to both.... Anyway, all that to say, I come out at the other end with three new saws, and tons of knowledge. Third saw was a used, running J'red 2071 Turbo BTW. It has been fun, but I'm not close to as in to it as you are. Great job!

[Spike60]

Welcome aboard Huntings; you're gonna fit in real well here. That's a good number of projects this past winter. Now the weather's gotta mellow out so you can get some trigger time on them? Where are you located? 

[Tacotodd]

@Huntingstoneboy filling out your profile helps us help you. It's like I used to tell customers, "help me to help you"! When I go to seek medical help, I tell the doctor everything that he MIGHT want to know, some even remote parts, to help him to help me. 

Remember, I'm crazy, not stupid! The use of that line will bring $100 to the Forestry Forum. That is all. And yes, I AM just joking.!? :D ;D

[Huntingstoneboy]

I am in Greene NY. So anyone have thoughts on drilling that hole in the intake chamber? I lightly ported the 670 champ..and recognize they have a little more zip than the 266. That being said I plan on opening this 266 up pretty good and see if she can't out run the champ. I have less than $100 in this saw so what's to lose?

[Tacotodd]

Maybe @weimedog can come tell you.

[Tacotodd]

Or @Spike60 

[Huntingstoneboy]

Thanks tacotodd for the help. So on another note... this is the most convoluted chat room ever. Just spent half hour trying to get pics in this post to no avail. Anyways...pics are in my gallery. Damage done...hole is drilled. Should promote flow. Quasi turbo. Gonna get a wheel on her and hopefully start porting tonight. I'll keep ya posted on progress.

[Huntingstoneboy]

 

 

 

 

[Huntingstoneboy]

So the previous posts were the holes i drilled to increase air flow. Ported her pretty good....wont bore you with numbers but added finger ports...so far been through a few heat cycles and she seems to be a screamer!

 

[Huntingstoneboy]

Also as a side note...pics are much easier to upload from my computer as opposed to my phone...operator error i would imagine. 

[donbj]

Also as a side note...pics are much easier to upload from my computer as opposed to my phone...operator error i would imagine.

It's a piece of cake on my old iphone 5s. If I can do it you can :D

[SWall]

Found a 61 rancher and a 162SE up in the attic of my dads house after he passed. Had them tuned up, run like new..

[Spike60]

Good to hear that, and welcome to the site.

[DHansen]

So with these older saws, like the 266, 181 and 288 are there specific or special tools needed to replace the crankshaft seals?

[mike_belben]

Just a case splitter iirc.  You can drive the seals in with sockets and a mallet.  Thats about the easiest family of saws to work on ever.  


IMO husky 61 is the root of the entire wonderful family right up to the 395xp.  If you teardown each one along the way youll only see very small changes from the prior art at each step.. Not counting the Xtorque stuff.