where do you guys buy a good double bevel axe. And what are you currently using?
Our sponsor, Carl Neutzel, carries Gränsfors Bruks axes and log-building tools.
http://carlneutzel.com/gransfors.html
You'll notice some have several models under the pictures.
Thanks SD,
I appreciate your help. do you have one of these and how do you like it?
I don't have one of these. I only have an old axe my grandfather gave me, which I made a couple handles for, one is a spare. Mine's not that great of an axe because I've pretty much been hard on it. I know this line of axes is a good brand, can't go wrong with Swedish steel. All our brush saw blades up here, for example, are made of Swedish steel, all brands. Maybe someone else can chime in.
I have one, it is nice, holds an edge and sharpens easily. They are costly, if you have the extra money it will last more than a life time. My most used axe however is simple and cost nothing, just a garden variety axe, it was just in my dads shop and needed a handle. It is use mostly for joinery. If you have any antique shops in your area check them out. I have not purchased any of the new axes you find in the local hardware shops so I can not comment on the quality of steel. Weight is important to the task at hand.
What is the intended use of the axe you are looking for?
I have the double bevel broad axe #4801. I would use it more if I change the handle to a longer handle. I would like to add a longer handle and use it for scoring and juggling and even finishing the surface. My brother has a single bevel version of the same axe, I think it could use just a slight more sweep in the blade, other wise works very well.
I think handles are specific to the user and task, if I were to buy a new one I would ask for one without the handle.
Tim
Thanks Moonhill & Swamp Donkey
I posted this in this section figuring more guys used hand tools. I currently don't have an axe but was interested in getting one for general use meaning taking to get firewood for knocking off limbs you forgot, splitting wood and possible joinery. I have a sawmill so build stuff on a whim. Now I am aware that you would need a different tool for each job but would like to first get a general purpose axe. I thought the same thing you mentioned Moonhill that handle length would vary from user to user but am not sure what the general rule is and with so many choices am not sure which one to go with and what weight? If it helps in your suggestions I am 6'5". I thought about looking in antique shops but with living in Montana with limited wood species I don't know if we would have a wood suitable for a handle? Maybe fir?
Thanks
Do you have hop hornbeam or Pacific yew? You want a dense wood. Either might be scarce commodities in that part of the country.
I have a few antique shops that I frequent every now and then. I always check the tool shelf for axes. I've purchased a number of broad axes and felling axes; generally at very good prices. I spend $8 for felling axe head and about $35 for the broad axe in the photos below:
http://peelinglogs.blogspot.com/2009/11/hand-hewing.html
I just added a handle and I was set. Both needed a little work, but once I got them cleaned up, they hold an edge very well.
I purchased this american felling axe for my son for Christmas:
http://www.loghelp.com/p-1389-american-felling-axe.aspx
Excellent quality axe.
One day I would like to buy the Gränsfors Bruks Broad Axe below:
http://www.loghelp.com/p-1172-broad-axe-1900-left-angled.aspx
But, man, it is spendy.
swamp donkey
I sure wish. lol, go figure I own and love to run a sawmill and live in the prairie all we have close are ponderosa pine, cedar and cottonwood. At my uncles ranch in the mountains he has fir, lodgepole pine, cottonwood, cedar & aspen. That I know of. Would any of these work?
Jander
Thanks a ton that is great suggestions. I will try and look around. Now if I can just find something to make a decent handle out of. I really enjoyed looking at pics of you axes and your cabin looks great.
Thanks for all your help everyone it has been great to learn more about the axe. I actually live in an original homestead cabin that is on the ranch I ride for it is log but unfortunately has plaster over them. We are thinking about building a small hunting cabin up in the hills so gaining some axe knowledge will be handy. sorry for getting so windy.
They are all too soft, but if I was in a pinch, I would look for a swampy area that some of them lodgepole pine might be growing real slow in. They can put on some real dense ring growth in them swamps. I've see an axe bounce right off them. Maybe a dull axe. Well sharp enough to cut a knee. I've seen (well end result bandaged up) "kids" on the woods crews take an improper stance when chopping into them pine, then have it glance off the pine and onto their knee. ::) Not on my crew though. ;)
I will try to look for some lodgepole growing in a swampy area and see what I can find. You think this would be better than fir.
Thanks for your help
Only if it's the tight ringed stuff, Doug Fir is best of the two when grown on an average site or better. Otherwise, tamarack or larch is denser than both and just as strong as Doug fir and more rot resistant.
You need a tough wood for handles, not just dense. Think about some of the scrubbier stuff that's around. We have some live oak that always stays too small to even think of sawing but make good handles. Ironwood is in your area maybe? I bet it would do. Fir will break in short order.
All the tough woods are dense, high specific gravity, even pacific yew. By ironwood , do you mean O virginiana ) (called both hop-hornbean or ironwood here)? , because that grows further west than the other ironwood. But, I don't think it makes it that far, it is in southeastern Manitoba. Live oak would be great, very high specific gravity. But those are California live oaks, not the same as the live oak in the SE.
swamp donkey you guys have got me working like a mule researching tree species in Montana suitable for an axe handle now. ;D
There has got to be something or homesteaders would have had a hard time chopping would with just the head of the axe head.
try birch it should brow near the rivers or lakes in your neck of the woods
james
Thanks I am going to try and look for some birch.
I have an Oxhead axe that I bought in a Hudson Bay store long long ago ;D
For a do-everything axe it has worked very well. The handle is only 24 or 26 inches long and the head is relatively thin, razor sharp. I can limb trees, peel posts, split small firewood, and carve a spoon if I need one ;)
It was called a Boy's axe or limbing axe. I have several other axes and hatchets now but the Oxhead is my favorite.
Birch or Tamarack would be the best bet in your area.
I went axe shopping this weekend at local antique shops. I had a lot of fun looking but didn't have much luck. I am going to try some more shops but the ones I went to only had ones that had been taken to a grinder quite often so they were pretty rough. I went to 3 different shops and each had one axe, no adze, and no broad axes. I know a guy though that is local and has a broad axe. He wants $75 for it. It seems to be in decent shape and will need a new handle and he sharpened a bevel on both sides (is this correct?)
If he sharpened the bevel on both sides of a broad axe it most likely will have to be restored back beyond the bevel on the flat side. (To me that's has been ruined and it probably not worth the effort.)
And NO it most certainly is not correct........
thank you Jim for your reply.
I have been looking on here and noticed that you have some tools for sale. Do you have a website and if not how does one look through what you have and prices?
Price list for tools is here:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,38516.0.html
Pictures are in one of my galleries here:
https://forestryforum.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=283
For exact methods of payment and other details send a regular email to me.
jrsawmill (at) verzion (dot) net