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Solar Heated Kiln

Started by GeneWengert-WoodDoc, May 20, 2016, 03:25:52 PM

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GeneWengert-WoodDoc

The longer you are at 160 F, the more pitch that will be evaporated.  As it takes time for the vapor to move, thicker takes longer. Also, the hotter you go, the shorter the time.  So, 24 hours does pretty good for 1-1/2" thickness and thinner at 160 F for most species.  Real sappy wood takes longer.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Baron

I was thinking that the high temp should come at the end once the MC was where you wanted it (6% or so). If I have to go to 160° then perhaps it would be wiser to do it at the beginning or middle of the kiln cycle. Do you have suggestions on that as I don't want to have case hardening and so forth.
Also how do you suggest I get this solar kiln up to 160°?  I was thinking electric heaters ......

WDH

Ricky,

Not sure that the Nyle L53 Unit is designed for more than 155 degrees.  I saw that somewhere in the specs.  We need to call and ask Stan at Nyle.  That is why I run mine at 150 degrees at the end.  Not ideal, but I am sure that it still does a lot of good. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

xlogger

Quote from: WDH on July 09, 2016, 10:44:51 AM
Ricky,

Not sure that the Nyle L53 Unit is designed for more than 155 degrees.  I saw that somewhere in the specs.  We need to call and ask Stan at Nyle.  That is why I run mine at 150 degrees at the end.  Not ideal, but I am sure that it still does a lot of good. 
Talked to Stan today and ask him about this. He said only up to 160°, something about the wiring connections.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

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