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Woodmizer LT35HD Setworks

Started by WoodyMcSander, July 02, 2019, 05:32:05 PM

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WoodyMcSander

In using setworks on my Woodmizer LT35HD, I have had some issues with the thickness of the boards I get from the settings I input.

Over the weekend, the goal was to cut 9/4 (2 ¼" thick) slabs.  I set setworks to 2 5/16", but the boards were cutting at 2 1/16".

This has happened to me for a lot of stuff I cut.

Is this normal?  Do I need to double check my thicknesses every time or do I need to do a calibration on my machine in some manner?

Thanks in advance.


Jon

ladylake


 Stress in a log will make the ends thinner and the middle thicker.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Southside

First thing I would do it check your actual drop.  With no log or cant on the bed set the head to a known height - say 16" to the back of the band (under tension), then drop the head  1 1/16" - 1 1/8", depending on the kerf of the band you are running, and measure to the same spot on the band.  If it helps use a sharpie to mark the band and bed so you know you are measuring at the same location each time.  If after four or five drops the tape is running true then you know the issue is not with the setworks.  It could be as ladylake said stress in the cant, it could be your outriggers are not set right.  Is your clamp creeping up on you causing the cant to shift?

If the tape is not running true then check the connection and wire to the encoder.   Past that you would need to call WM for diagnostics.  Good luck.   
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

WV Sawmiller

   You can do like Southside suggests only just lightly kiss the log on each cut to produce a 1/4" deep cut, back out, drop and repeat and measure. That will certainly show what you are staring with on your cut.

   Mine very consistently takes a 1/8" kerf so if I set it to 1-1/4 drops I will be cutting exactly 1-1/8" thick boards. I use my setworks religiously.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

YellowHammer

I agree, and I've done it many times.  Make the end of the log into a ruler, and check it with a tape measure.  Or just measure the drops with a tape measure directly. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

WoodyMcSander

I need to clarify.

I get consistently thick boards.

What I'm not getting is a thickness that is consistent with what setworks is telling me.

If I set setworks to 1 1/16" I expect to get a 1" board.

In this case last weekend, I was setting to 2 5/16" to get a 2 1/4" board, but I was getting right at 2".

Somehow I lost a ¼" somewhere.

Thanks for all the input.

millwright

When I first got my 35, I had a lot of trouble with the brake on the up- down. It would overshoot when drooping down and always be thicker than it was set for. I replaced it a couple times with no success . When I added the debarked I upgraded to the much heavier duty right angle gearbox. It has been great ever since, set it 1/16 over for kerf and comes out right on every time.

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