Woodmizer KD250 initial load!! Need help.. Nyle L200M

[rdaustin211]

It's been a long time coming but I finally go the initial load put in my kiln. My chamber is a 20' shipping container so i figured that it would be easy to heat. I bought this kiln from a guy who only used it once so I've been a little to do this initial run because it hasn't run much at all since it was purchased about 4 years ago. I had to order the probes to go in the wood because the first owner must have forgot to give them to me. I figured it would run just fine with out the leads being hooked to the probes but that may be my whole problem in the first place. Once i shut the doors and set the dry bulb to 120 and the wet bulb to 75 i hoped for the best. The temp went up slowly all day and got up to 97 but that's as far as it would go. The display shows that the heater as well as the compressor is on but there isn't any condensation dripping off the coil. Is there some kind of reset button or something that I need to hit. Please help if you can and thatnks!!.. 

[Southside]

Without the probes in the wood I bet your MC is reading something like 5%, which is probably below what you have the final MC set to right?  If that is the case then no, the compressor won't come on because the machine thinks the wood is too dry.  The probes will solve that problem for you.  

[rdaustin211]

That was my initial issue but even after I set the final MC to 1% the compressor never kicked on. I was hoping there was a reset button or something that would solve my problem. I might just have to give woodmizer a call on monday. Do they sell the probes as well?

[YellowHammer]

If the compressor is showing commanded "ON" in the LCD display, then check to make sure the control panel switch is set to "Auto."  If not, the compressor will not operate.  

If they are set correctly, go into the kiln and raise the filter screen on the front of the unit and put your hand on the cooling fins directly above the V shaped drip pan.  If the fins are noticeably cool, not cold, but cool, then the the compressor is working normally.  You should also be able to hear the compressor running.  If the fins are not cool, then open up the side panel and see if the compressor is actually running and also if the low pressure line from the compressor is cool. 

If the compressor is calling for cooling and is actually not running then one of the safeties are tripped, and assuming it's wired correctly, it will probably be the low pressure Freon safety because there is a slow leak while it was not used and it can only be reset based on the pressure from the Freon when recharged.  However, the high pressure safety could have been tripped at some time, so reset it by pressing the little red button on top of the little blue cylindrical pressure sensor in the Freon line.  The switch will not click when reset and is generally tripped when the interior of the kiln gets too hot with the compressor operating, say 130F or so.  

There is a way to jump the Freon safeties with a shorting wire to bypass all the safeties, as well as do a diagnostic test from the front panel, but I'll let 
@K-Guy from Nyle get into that.  

If the fins are cool and there is no condensation, then the unit is working correctLy, and the air is too dry to evaporate moisture.  

There is another problem since your DB won't go up.  How insulated is the container?  Are the vents closed?  Are the heat strips working?  Are the switches set correctly? 

There is a 6 minute programmed delay between commanded and operating.  

[rdaustin211]

I can't thank you enough for this wealth of info. I'll probably print this off so that I can have it for future reference. So i have raised the screen and the fins are not even remotely cool at all so I don't think it is even kicking on what so ever. It is showing ON on the LCD screen so at least I have that going for me. When you are talking about the control panel, is this on the unit inside the kiln? I'm hoping that i can switch it to AUTO and things will start to work correctly.

Assuming it's a Freon issue, is this something that I can do myself? Is this something that a local HVAC guy can work on? Which side is the access panel on?

Also is there a way to see if my heat strips are working. It got up to 97 but kinda stalled out there. Something was heating it up because it was about 82 outside at the time. The chamber is covered in about 4" of spray foam and the vents were closed.

Thanks for all the help fellas. I've been watching all the videos I could find. Just when I thought Nathan Elliot had covered everything imaginable  lol. 

[Southside]

One thing you might try is to drill two holes into your wood and insert the probe wire ends directly into the wood, you would have to do it with two pair at a minimum as the computer needs two readings to operate.  If nothing else then maybe the controller will give you a real world MC value and you can set your final MC below that and see if the compressor kicks on.  I would saw a fresh piece of pine that will make the reading off of the chart and use that to fool the system.  At least this way you will know that it should be calling for the compressor to kick on.  From there is could be mechanical or electrical preventing it from actually happening.  

[YellowHammer]

 



If your display looks similar to mine, the LCD is calling for compressor and heat, as there are an "o" in the upper left hand part of the LCD under the labels.  In the case of my photo, the unit is not calling on vent or humidification, as these indicators are "-" but is calling for the heater and compressor.  This indicates the controller software itself has the proper conditions to call for those systems.  

However, even if the control conditions are met, unless the rocker switches are set in the correct position "AUTO" then the control relays won't close.

At that point, as far as the controller is concerned, it is sending operating voltage to the compressor unless there is a physical issue with the circuit itself, one of which would be a physical safety trip, or a wiring issue, which would not show up on the display.  

If you have the manual, with its wiring schematic, you can pull the wires from the low pressure safety and check it's continuity.  It will be wired in series with the high pressure safety and simply pull the two wires from the terminal strip inside the kiln unit itself, and check continuity through the two wires.  If it has been tripped, it will show an open circuit.  For that matter, if either safety is tripped, they will show open circuit because they are wired in series.  Only when the pressure safety loop shows closed circuit will the the actual operating relay engage the compressor.

Also the DB must get above 80F for the compressor to start.

At that point, check the voltages to the compressor itself, to see if it is the problem.  

If the freon is low, it is an easy matter to recharge it, automotive 134a can be used, and the charge must be weighed in, the sight glass is not useful for this.  Of course, the leak must be found first.  The units doesn't take much freon, depending on your capabilities, you could go to your local car shop and get a refill can, just as you might recharge the ac on your car, however, you will still have a leak.

Of course, don't do any of this if you are not qualified, with the proper electrical or refrigeration abilities.

If you call Stan at Nyle, extension 212, he is the world's expert on these units, (don't tell him I said that :D) and he also goes by the handle @K-Guy here on the Forum.

 



 

[K-Guy]

@rdaustin211 

Stan from Nyle here. Call me at 800-777-6953 or 207-213-1068 and I'll help you diagnose your problem.

[Mossy Chariot]

Okay guys, don't stop here  :'(.  I want to know the "rest of the story." :D

[K-Guy]

Okay guys, don't stop here  .  I want to know the "rest of the story."

He didn't have any chickens!! :D

[Southside]

You really should consider including one with each unit sold... ;D

[Mossy Chariot]

Well,  I'm certainly glad that problem has been solved!!!! say_what