My nieghbor is thinning out some pine trees and will end up with hundreds of small logs 7 to 12" , any ideas what to cut them into or where to sell them. Steve
Sounds like you need a building spree,roof over your mill, wood shed,tractor shed est.Frank C.
All of the above. Steve
I just issued a building permit ,have at it.Frank C.
hey bandmiller2 , me too please
James P
Quote from: ladylake on October 12, 2009, 07:40:23 AM
My neighbor is thinning out some pine trees and will end up with hundreds of small logs 7 to 12" , any ideas what to cut them into or where to sell them. Steve
Which pine, that dbh, or at what length if small end diam?
I don't know my pine, don't saw it very often,it has the long needles. Logs will be 7" or bigger on the small end and up to 30' long. Tall straight and skinny. Steve
Sounds like either red or white pine. The red pine will have flakes for outer bark, that will easily brush off during handling, while the white pine will have bark more like hemlock!
Even with 7" on the small end, you should be able to get 6" boards or 2x4's out of it!
On small stuff, I think the best way would be to level the log, remove a slab, turn the log 180° and remove another slab, turn the log 90°, level the log, remove a slab and then you'll know for sure what you can get!
It's a little quicker & easier if you have the small end of the log towards the mill while sawing!
Chuck I found out it's Norway pine. I saw like you described amost all the time, it goes fast with a good offbearer that will flip and hold the logs untill they're clamped. I'm going to try to keep the small end facing me on most of the logs, sure makes it easyier when trying to get 5-1/2 or 6 out of a 7" log. Steve
I have only sawn from the small end 5 or 6 times. Never by choice they were set on the bunks wrong. When ever I try to saw from the small end I get into trouble with the bell on the butt, I end up with a clearance problem, the bell rubbing somewhere not good. I simply do a measurement on the top end and cut to that number. It gives me the willies cutting form the small end. I suppose the type of saw makes a difference.
Tim
When I have more pine then I need building material, what I do is cut them into cants, and stticker/stack them them untill needed,, I do this asap because bugs like them ,,
I also measure the Dia at the small end,, multiply that by .7 to get the approx board/cant width,, example ,,if you do have a 7" at small end log,, it will yield approx, 4.9" cant,, just about 5"
Quote from: moonhill on October 13, 2009, 07:37:34 AM
I have only sawn from the small end 5 or 6 times. Never by choice they were set on the bunks wrong. When ever I try to saw from the small end I get into trouble with the bell on the butt, I end up with a clearance problem, the bell rubbing somewhere not good. I simply do a measurement on the top end and cut to that number. It gives me the willies cutting form the small end. I suppose the type of saw makes a difference.
Tim
There wont be any problem with the but swell on these little logs, but I sure know what you mean on the huge ones, the chainsaw has had to come out more than a few times. Steve
Quote from: ladylake on October 13, 2009, 07:04:24 AM
Chuck I found out it's Norway pine. I saw like you described amost all the time, it goes fast with a good offbearer that will flip and hold the logs untill they're clamped. I'm going to try to keep the small end facing me on most of the logs, sure makes it easyier when trying to get 5-1/2 or 6 out of a 7" log. Steve
I have found that when sawing anything small enough that it can be handled by hand, it's a lot quicker and easier to do than trying to use the hydraulics!
If you have a good tailer/off-bearer it really makes a difference too!
Quote from: robnrob2 on October 13, 2009, 07:56:03 AM
When I have more pine then I need building material, what I do is cut them into cants, and stticker/stack them them untill needed,, I do this asap because bugs like them ,,
I also measure the Dia at the small end,, multiply that by .7 to get the approx board/cant width,, example ,,if you do have a 7" at small end log,, it will yield approx, 4.9" cant,, just about 5"
I have found that resawing cants/squared up timber is that they will check and then the board will have a check down the length, not all the boards but some. If you are planning on sawing them in to timber that is not an issue and they could be resized to what you may need. This is what I do sometimes and the boards all have checks running down the length.
I will gang small stock up and saw out 3 boards at a time, kind of like edging thick boards. This usually happens when I am cutting Cedar for they have small tops often.
Tim
Moonhill The owner was talking about 5 or 6" cants also, I talked him out of that for the same reason you gave. Steve
I would cut those 7 inchers into 4x4s and have them pressure treated for fence posts and such. They will make great heart centered 4x4s or two really crappy 2x4s.
How about squaring two sides at a set thickness then stack to dry. Minimal handling and they would make superb structure to use for a tin roof and walls.
They used to square off just one face in timber frame girts and rafters.
I was told that a squared piece of lumber has 25% less strength than a round stick. On this small a diameter you might as well keep the strength.
Not everything has to be S4S.
keep thinking! ;D
kderby
A couple of good ideas posted above, the more options the better. How much does pressure treating cost? I like the open rafter idea, like a old log cabin. The owner of these logs has a cabin with quite a bit of hand hewn 2 sided beams in it. Steve
You will still have to take the bark off, I would think while it is on the mill take a thin slap off the other two sides and ease the job it will all so allow a flat surface to draw lines on when it come time to cut them to length etc. You would then have the option to turn the beam up and have the depth in the proper direction.
Tim
I was just looking at a big box store flyer. For thier No 3 and better 1" pine boards on sale they want .90 for 8' long and $1 a bf for 10' long and longer, maybe prices are coming up. $1.14 for No 2 1 x 6 x 10' Steve
If you cut the 7 inch end of the log to 8 feet you can make 4x4s out of it and it will nice and stable.
i would take the small logs, 9" and smaller leave them 16-20' long hand peel them dry them and sell them that way. we sell them for 5-8 dollars a lineal foot. or if you know someone building a cabin make d- logs, window bucks,4" cover pine floor, slab them 1" leave both edges on use that as chinck siding. your possibalities are almost endless
I just read in this Post about square-up of (4) sides, then the beam is ~ 25% weaker.
I have plans to saw up -- 80 Locust for up-right poles for a storage building. The inside is 15 feet high, so 20 ft. long logs. Expected sawing size is ~ 5X5 {min.) 6x6 {as desired std., some of the logs (trees) may saw 6x7 (at 20ft long.) or 7XR.ound or 8XR {best guess). Sawing with 2 sides round would be great... thinking 7 or 8 inches thick... would work 100%
Does the forum (above ^) recommend sawing only two sides (only) for better strenth ? I understand... why square 4 sides when it's more work and not needed, not worried about looks.
If you had a lot of white pine, would it be your wood of choice for pole building framing ? I have hard wood too but spoty and I'd reallly work to round it up for 40 x 80 building.
I've made 14' x 14' silder doors out of white pine and they worked well (light wt.). now over 25 years old.
Avery
Quote from: kderby on October 15, 2009, 01:26:19 AM
I was told that a squared piece of lumber has 25% less strength than a round stick. On this small a diameter you might as well keep the strength.
A 4x4 has more than enough strength for fence posts on anything short of a rhino cage. I'm looking at the fact that he has a sawmill and not a post peeler. Sawing them is the quickest way to get the bark off. ;)
Pressure treating prices vary considerably. Down here, you can get posts treated for about a buck-fifty each.
Your right Dan I have a sawmill not a post peeler, it would be nice to get $5 to $8 per linear foot but I have no idea who would buy them. Far as peeling I've heard if you cut them in the spring after the sap starts flowing they peel easy, also they use pressure washers to peel them, never tried that yet. Steve
wow,
i try to give some suggestions and all i get is sarcasem. look around people have log posts on their porch maybe log handrail. the method of peeling i figured you guys would know, it's called a draw knife. far as selling them? it's called a" ad" in the paper, or maybe craigs list.
Red Oaks I'd sure like to get get $5 to $8 a foot but have never peeled any logs or tried to sell peeled logs up here in Mn. Maybe I'll try a few and see what happens, but the draw knife sounds like a lot of work compared to the sawmill. I've never ran a draw knife so I don't know that either. Steve
Quote from: red oaks lumber on October 15, 2009, 08:30:57 PM
wow,
i try to give some suggestions and all i get is sarcasem. look around people have log posts on their porch maybe log handrail. the method of peeling i figured you guys would know, it's called a draw knife. far as selling them? it's called a" ad" in the paper, or maybe craigs list.
red
I don't see where you have gotten any "sarcasem". Did you get a PM that had some?
Your suggestion sounded good to me, but prolly doesn't fit everyone's plan.
Making a product before having a buyer lined up is a bit risky, unless one has a lot of free time or free labor.
Craigs list sounds like a plan. I am impressed with how that site has developed. Some bad with the good, but it works good for me.
sorry everyone..
i reread the posts wow, i had saw dust between my ears! so put the cluds and ropes away.lol
Avery,pine is fine,especially if its under a roof and not touching the soil.Any questionable use just make it heavier,timber framers use alot of it.Frank C.