Axe Repair

[jstew11]

I bought a Norland Northwoods style axe. I tried it on a tree but noticed the head was working loose. The handle looks good and it has a wooden wedge. I thought about soaking the head, but I will wait for advice. I know they make steel wedges and I suppose that you just drive them in. Is that a good move? I wondered if I can get the head off if I could add a larger wooden wedge.  There is no way to add a wooden wedge if the head is on is there?

[tyb525]

Soaking the head will only result in a looser head once it dries.

I would try two steel wedges driven 45 degrees to the wooden wedge

[redprospector]

Something I've used in the past is a product called "Chair Loc".
I got it at a woodworkers supply store. It comes in a small bottle, you drill a few 1/8" holes in the end of the handle, and fill them with the liquid. It will swell the wood fibers, and then crystalize not allowing the fibers to shrink back down. I know it sounds too good to be true, but it works.
Oh yeah, it works good on loose chair rungs too.  :D

Andy

[clww]

You could go that route OR get a larger (thicker) wedge and add that to what is already installed. Do NOT soak the head, because it will become worse later, as tyb525 pointed out.

[beenthere]

stew
Welcome to the Forestry Forum

I'd first try to get the head further onto the handle, and then add the steel wedge.

[Maine372]

step one: drill out the old wedge. try not to damage the handle too bad. just drill the wedge and use some needle nose pliers to remove the chunks between the drill holes.

step two: hold the axe handle up and hammer on the end of the handle, this will drive the head further on the handle.

step three: add larger wooden wedge. do not cut the wedge off flush with the head, leave some sticking up to pull it out later, or hammer in if the head comes loose again.

[shinnlinger]

I second the chair lock.  It swells the wood with superglue so it stays swelled

[Magicman]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum,  jstew11.   

You really need to get that handle out of the axe to do a proper tightening job.  If you are able to do this, mark the top of the axe so that the handle can be re-installed properly.  The handle end of the hole is larger than the other.

If you can remove the handle, then re-wedge with a thicker wooden wedge and use one or two metal wedges.

If you can not remove the handle, I have read that soaking it in automotive antifreeze will swell the wood and it will not shrink when it dries.  Another alternative soaking agent is boiled linseed oil.  Never soak it in water.

[barbender]

Try that chair lock, it actually works. I tried it on a hammer handle trying to save myself the trouble of doing a proper repair job, and it actually worked. Give it a shot ;)

[bushmechanic]

magicman is right on with the antifreeze soaking it works really well and if you doubt it pour some antifreeze on a sheet of paper and see how long it takes to dry out. ;)

[mad murdock]

Welcome jstew11.  Magicmans idea would prolly be the least costly, just don't let yer dog gnaw on the axe handle after the soak in antifreeze ;)

[isawlogs]

 Well heres what I would do,  I would soak the head in water over night, then let it dry out, that will loosen the head and it will make the wedge easier to pry out. Once you have the wedge out make/buy a thicker wedge, if you make one make it of hard wood. Tap the end of the handle to set the head in tight, hammer the wedge in and cut off all but 1/4 inche above the axe head.  To get the wedge out, you can drive a flat screw driver into the wedge and pry up. A little at a time a couple of whacks with a hammer on the screw driver and pry, should have it out in no time.

[beenthere]

just don't let yer dog gnaw on the axe handle after the soak in antifreeze

I'm thinking the dog would have to knaw on a lot of axe handles soaked in antifreeze to have any effect at all. Might have an effect if the dog lapped up a bowl or puddle of it.

[mad murdock]

The suggestion was my poor attempt at some tongue in cheek humor ;)

[beenthere]

 :D

One never knows....

[redprospector]

If you need to remove a wooden wedge that hasn't had steel wedges driven across it, the best way I've found is with a cheap slide hammer (the kind you can get for pulling dents in fenders), and a dry wall screw. Put the screw in the end of the slide hammer, screw it into the center of the wedge a little ways, and tap it out. Most of the time you can reuse the wedge if you are so inclined.

Andy

[beenthere]

Speaking of a screw, one or two can be used to add emergency wedge power, just that it doesn't look as authentic. A little too "redneck" but does the trick of holding the head tight. 

But I'd remove the head, clean out any dust/rust and make it fit right. Then keep the axe out of the rain to avoid any unnecessary swelling of the wood.

[Phorester]

On good quality axes, the inside of the ax eye is either hour-glass or wedged-shaped, wider at the top than the bottom so the handle can be spread out at the top with wedges and locked in.  The wooden wedge is to spread the handle sideways in the hole.  1 or 2 steel wedges are used at 90 degrees to the wooden wedge to spread the handle from front to back of the head.  45 degrees won't spread the handle as much as putting them at 90. Using nails, screws, etc. in place of a steel wedge is okay for a temporary repair but it really doesn't spread the handle enough to lock it in as will a steel wedge.  Most replacement handles at stores come with both a wooden and steel wedge taped to the handle. Should be able to find both wedges at a hardware store.  I've found mine at a local flea market and buy 6 - 8 at a time.

Personally I don't like to epoxy a handle in, although it is the most permanent way to lock in a handle.  But because it's permanent it makes it darn tough to remove a broken handle for replacement.



Steel wedge installation

[Sixacresand]

And when you get the handle tightened, paint it a bright red or orange so you can find it in the woods.

[Phorester]

Just this morning I watched a fellow tighten a loose sledge hammer handle by hammering in a quarter beside the wooden wedge.  Should work for a temporary repair, and is probably cheaper than a new wooden wedge.

[JohnW]

Sledge hammer handles, (what's the right word) often, should have a different type of wedge, a ring.  Like a wedge bent into a ring.  At least sledge hammers with a round eye have this.  It's quite easy to drive in to the handle and does a good job.  If you're replacing handles, don't lose this thing.  I don't think I've ever seen one for sale.
-----------------
I see some now.  They're called round metal saftey wedges.  There's some on eBay, and they're the last thing on this page.
https://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/page.php?theLocation=/Resources/Product/Hammers.xml

[Phorester]

Good point JOHNW.   I also saw on that page what they sell as a "french wedge".  Looks like a long wedge with two short 90 deg. wings close to each end.  This one wedge takes the place of a long wooden wedge and metal wedge. Spreads elongated handles, like ax handles, in the two directions needed to lock such handles in place.  It doesn't' say what they are made out of.

[SwampDonkey]

I had a steel wedge in my axe for a number of years, but it wasn't doing the job. It was the kind with an end cap on it and was ribbed, but wasn't much good. I took that out and made a wooden wedge out of hardwood, made it extra long and then cut it off when in place leaving a little wood sticking up. We'll see how long this lasts, but the head is nice and tight on the handle now. Made the handle about 30 years ago, and a spare. Never had to use the spare yet. Used hard maple. It's my blazing axe and my camping axe. It's got red paint all over the handle from tree spotting. Not bright red, because of fir pitch and dirt all mixed in for a fine patina. ;D :D :D :D