Chainsaw Powder Coating

[Guydreads]

I've seen this topic before. Is it worth it to powder coat your own saws? I have 3 cases, 3 clutch covers that I'd like to spruce up a bit. I tried spray paint. Yeah.... that didn't work (except on the plastic of a 2150 that I have). So powder coating IS the only option. Is it really worth it, or should I just be content with having some exposed metal on my saw? What do I need for it? I have an air compressor

[Menagerie-Manor]

I've seen this topic before. Is it worth it to powder coat your own saws? I have 3 cases, 3 clutch covers that I'd like to spruce up a bit. I tried spray paint. Yeah.... that didn't work (except on the plastic of a 2150 that I have). So powder coating IS the only option. Is it really worth it, or should I just be content with having some exposed metal on my saw? What do I need for it? I have an air compressor

I picked up the Eastwood home powder coat kit with the oven (larger toaster type) and all you need, at the time $199.  I've used it countless times for small to medium size parts. Also works well for baking on spray paint finishes. On aluminum parts I restore where paint is not a concern I keep a spray can of satin clear wheel coating and that seems to work well keeping the corrosion to a minimum.

[Spike60]

Well first, I have to admit that I'm way too lazy to mess with powder coating.

But I have found that hi-temp engine paint works a good deal better than your average spray paint.

[Guydreads]

All right! Whenever I get back to the States for a visit, I'll pick something up.

[kantuckid]

All paints are either solvent, moisture or heat cure. Powder coating is very popular with motorcycle people, especially for the tubing frames. My current restoration I sprayed with  KBS moisture cure paint in satin black. It's a finicky paint but very hard when cured.
 Many commercial items are powder coated and I find it not to be a perfect coating anymore so than a solvent type as most AB shops use. Notice that they don't powder coat many items in commercial work, only certain things.  I've seen it commonly flake off of pu truck hitches in big flakes which tells me it's not a magic paint at all. many other e.g.'s are out there. It does have advantages though if you'll read up on the process. The airflow crevices on saw side cases might be a reason they use powder coatings?
 I had a TSC log splitter that mtd on a 3pt hitch which was powder coated. As I quit using it I cleaned it up for sale by sanding off the powder coat before spraying with a solvent cure enamel equipment paint. It often comes off when it ages in flakes with rust underneath.  
Why not spray a chainsaw part with a proper primer for the metal involved and a base coat/ clear coat paint? For an adherence, use a material such as Bulldog for plastics automotive door jambs where that's an issue to get paint to stick.  

[Real1shepherd]

Which begs the question;what did Husky, Stihl and the like use originally on the saws? I always thought it was powder coating.

Primer, a base coat and clear coat is a lot of work for a non-painter type person. There's a varied time interval that you apply the clear after the base. You screw that up and the whole repaint is a failure.

I'm no painter, in fact I loath it. But I had a small motorcycle panel part that I wanted to repaint. I set up a closet in my house as a paint booth. I did everything that the auto paint shop said to do. The panel looked perfect with the base....I was jacked. Then put on the clear and it ruined the paint. Looked online, went back to the auto paint shop.....told me there was a certain interval for the clear I had to follow etc. Stripped everything off and did it again, same result.

So I gave up $50 to an auto paint shop to shoot it. Looked beautiful, but had a small visible paint drop that they didn't notice or care about. Put it back on the bike and I try not to think about it.

I'm told that in commercial powder coating at least, your choice of colors are limited. So.....matching that perfect Jonsered red may not be possible?

I would trust anything from Eastwood that wasn't some cheap product to begin with. Their stuff is great usually.

Kevin

[21incher]

 I also use a Eastwood gun and old electric stove oven. I use fine glass beads to remove old coatings and oil residue then prebake for a half our to burn off oils. Then clean again with the prep, coat, and bake  at the recommended powder temp. Can use primer powder also first. It's a very tough coating but be careful of mating surfaces because there is a build up. Eastwood has high temp masking tape and silicone plugs for surfaces you don't want coated. Make a good rack to hang things from that fits in the oven for best coverage.

[Guydreads]

Thanks for the advice!

[Spike60]

Guy, I'm assuming that Jonsered red is one of the colors you'll be wanting. Best match I've ever found is one of those hi temp paints by VHT. Color code is SP121; Bright Red. Really a dead on match.

And, also for us "can fans" there is a color chart that I'm trying to find from Husky/Elux that lists every color they use that is available in a spray can. In addition to Husky orange, there's Poulan green, Partner, (poulan pro) yellow, all the fifferent Craftsman mower colors. If I can't find it, I'll call tech service and try and get another one. Whatever is available has standard Husky part numbers and can be ordered from any dealer.

Side story: About 10 years ago I thought a hoax of sorts would be fun and started a story aimed at a couple buddys about a rare Jonsered prototype model 988. Was going to do up a red and black 288 Husky and had the whole thing hyped about only 4 known to have been made, 2 went to the US and 2 went to Canada. One of them smelled a rat and went and photo shopped a 288 in Jonny colors and I never built the saw. No matter; the 930 Super is a better saw anyway.

[Real1shepherd]

Bob, sure like to see that color chart for Husky! Thanks.....


Kevin