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Possibly stripped exhaust manifold bolts on a Husquavarna 353

Started by Gdalesio, December 29, 2013, 09:58:11 PM

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Gdalesio

I purchased a used Husquavarna 353, cleaned er up thoroughly with a air chuck, fresh fuel and lubed all areas required then started cutting wood.  An hour into the exhaust bolts that hold the exhaust manifold in wiggled out and dropped into the brush.  Got two new/ used ones from a used Husky from a small engine shop and one goes in fine and the other does not catch.  I tried and tried.

Is it stripped? What are my options?

jacob j.

If it's not catching then it's likely stripped. A bolt that comes loose on a running saw can strip its' threads due to vibration.

Your options are:
Helicoil thread repair
Time-sert thread replacement
Tapping the hole out to a larger bolt and thread pattern (not the best option due to limited space for the fastener in the Husky muffler)
Having the hole welded up and then re-tapping the same size original threads.

John R

Quote from: jacob j. on December 29, 2013, 10:08:58 PM
If it's not catching then it's likely stripped. A bolt that comes loose on a running saw can strip its' threads due to vibration.

Your options are:
Helicoil thread repair
Time-sert thread replacementTapping the hole out to a larger bolt and thread pattern (not the best option due to limited space for the fastener in the Husky muffler)
Having the hole welded up and then re-tapping the same size original threads.

This is the best option.
John


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Gdalesio

Hi John

So the time sort thread replacement is the best option, any idea what that's going to cost me?

AdkStihl

Unfortunately if you don't already have the installation tools, the kit is gonna cost around $60.
That's kinda why I went the HeliCoil route. I repaired a Husqvarna 350 for my brother in law 2 yrs ago with the same issue and its still holding like the day I gave it to him.
The 350 & 353 are known exhaust bolt rattlers. They don't have the additional support of a muffler bracket like the 346.
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sharkey

Here is a short video from saw king that may help you get that fixed.  Its a common problem with all the 350 series.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEg7oo5yQts

Roundhead

take your time with it. you may be able to repair the threads. if you take the good bolt to the hardware store they can tell you the exact pitch and size and you can simply get a tap for around $5. then slowly turn it into the hole to clean up the thread. you can do this if the thread is not too badly damaged. if it works, put some blue Loctite on the bolt and you should be good

hamish

Quote from: AdkStihl on December 30, 2013, 08:22:37 AM
The 350 & 353 are known exhaust bolt rattlers. They don't have the additional support of a muffler bracket like the 346.

The 353 does have a muffler support.
Norwood ML26, Jonsered 2152, Husqvarna 353, 346,555,372,576

JohnG28

I just got a Husky 350, which I have yet to get into. Would a dab of blue loctite be wise on the muffler bolts to prevent this on my saw?
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

hamish

Norwood ML26, Jonsered 2152, Husqvarna 353, 346,555,372,576

NCFarmboy

Mewba repairs by tapping to 1/4" x 20 tpi.  Have to run 1/4" drill bit through muffler.  He said this works better than helicoil.  I always add a 346 muffler support on this series.  Have to trim one side off.
Shep
Lots & Lots of Saws

JohnG28

Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

sablatnic

I use red too, and it doesn't stop me from unbolting the muffler, when needed.

JohnG28

Ok, I haven't used it before but heard that a good amount of heat and torque  is needed to get them loose using red.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

sablatnic

The cylinder will get quite hot when running, so the loctite will be no more than medium strong after a few hours of work.

hamish

Quote from: JohnG28 on January 02, 2014, 10:25:59 AM
Quote from: hamish on January 01, 2014, 09:27:22 PM
Red Loctite.

That meant as a joke should I want to get the muffler off again?

Its red Loctite........not Gorilla Snot!

For a faster with red Loctite already applied............use heat to loosen, or strike it with an up and down wrench.

I sharp impact ie a hammer to a bolt in place with Loctite will loosen the Loctite.

In your case should you need to remove your muffler in the future, insert 4mm hex key into muffler bolt, strike hex key with hammer, repeat for other bolt and bobs both our uncles.



I
Norwood ML26, Jonsered 2152, Husqvarna 353, 346,555,372,576

Ianab

I'd think the Blue Loctite would be more suitable?

Not quite as strong, but should prevent vibration loosening things, and it's designed to come apart with hand tools (without an impact wrench  ;) )
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

hamish

Quote from: Ianab on January 02, 2014, 09:14:37 PM
I'd think the Blue Loctite would be more suitable?

Not quite as strong, but should prevent vibration loosening things, and it's designed to come apart with hand tools (without an impact wrench  ;) )

Might as well spit on it if using blue.  Breakaway vs prevailing torque are much different.

A hammer and a hex key are hand tools, and imagine a watchmakers hammer.  Ones arm doesn't even have to move just a quick flip of the wrist with a teeny hammer.
Norwood ML26, Jonsered 2152, Husqvarna 353, 346,555,372,576

JohnG28

The reason I asked that question in the first place is that I have heard of red Loctite being used as a prank in some applications. Apparently you haven't heard that before.  ::) Anyway, like Ian said blue is meant for that application. I am only looking for a little insurance.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

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