Lets see what you tore up today.
I'll start with a dexter torsion axle that decided to eject out the back of my gooseneck at 2am in the rain last night. Thought i had a cow stuck under the trailer for a second.
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I lost a big pine out of the buncher this weekend, thought it was going to be a bit loud in the cab for a moment but instead she went right to the left side tires and bounced about 3' back into the air before coming to a stop. Sorry, no pictures.
Not today but last Wednesday on a custom hay baling job I snapped an output shaft off in the baler gearbox. I was 8 bales into 70 acres of hay. Parts were a 14 hour all night road trip with an 11 month old in the backseat away. Left at 6.30pm Wednesday, got home at 8.30am Thursday and was baling hay by noon that day.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20180718_164726.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1532406560)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20180718_164735.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1532406567)
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6 teeth and teeth holders off my FAE SSH200 head. Going to cost $300 to get it moved to specialty welding shop and get the drum fixed, tooth holders and teeth probably going to be 1000+ and then welding shop for 1/2 a day. So...not a great day. Sadly, did it as a favor while taking down a few ridge rocks in a hay field that have broken lots of mowers and haybines over the years. Can't even charge to a client. No good deed goes unpunished and all that.
I did get the rocks :).
Did that trailer accident happen in TN or VA? Hope it was close to home but sorry it happened. What do you do for the repair?
Nice guys may finish last but atleast they have a good turnout at the wake!
I got very lucky, it was not far into NY from mass, no one or thing got hurt, kids stayed asleep and i managed to get it all unscrambled before cops pulled up. Told em id just finished changing a tire. they were content to stay out of the rain, didnt notice i was a 30ft single axle.
Limped back to springfield successfully and parked it, grabbed a small enclosed trailer to bring down this trip while i figure out what to do. Those axles are custom order 3 week lead time and about a grand each. Im not sure i want to keep pouring money into it. Axles wont unrust it or redeck it. So im stewing on that issue for now.. Maybe a used axle will turn up
Chevy,
Not sure what made me cring the most, 14 hours driving after a full day or concern the 14 month old would wake and not be happy!
How did you find a part you could pick up at 1 am!?!
Glad all were safe.
By the time all was said and done I slept 3 hours out of 40 but the customers hay all got baled without getting rained on... lol
Finding parts was easy my local dealer checked his computer and told me who had one in stock. Called that dealer and paid for it over the phone and he left it in a bag outside. Got to the dealership at 1am and the local sherrif was checking his email in their parking lot. Turns out he was a part time farmer so we had a good chat in the middle of the night.
Was not fun but I try to do my best for the paying customers and they seem appreciate it.
Now to trade in the old baler before it breaks again.
This promises to be a good thread😁 I usually don't tear too much stuff up, but when I screw up it's usually pretty bad. A few weeks back, I backed my loaded forwarder into the front of a truck that was loading on the landing (worst part was, he was parked exactly where I told him to load) I was just barely creeping when I hit him, in fact I never even felt it. Pushed him back about 3'. He had just started loading, if he would've had more wood on it probably would've totally wiped his truck out. As it was, it didn't look too bad, but it all adds up- Ali-arc bumper, A/C condenser, radiator, air to air cooler, grill and hood. $10K or so👎👎👎 I'll have my head hanging quite low for some time. No, I did not think taking pictures at the time would be appropriate 😑
Oof.. So ya noobed it up good didja? Reckon that threw your seniority out the window for a stretch.
Uh huh👎
Have blown the return hose off the splitter 3x this week. And its got a bypass relief valve to boot so im not sure why, the housing is installed in the right direction.
Getting tired of oil baths.
Mike,
That many oil baths? Good news, your now waterproof!
Some days you just need to call it quits. Today was one of those. I rented a plug core aerator to overseed my crabgrass (some folks call it a lawn - but mine is nothing but crabgrass at the moment.) First off, my 4-wheeler wouldn't start. See "Dang Chinese Carburetors" in the General Board for that story. Well, I'll pull it with my lawnmower. The Craftsman didn't want much to do with it, but I drained some water out of the ballast tank and commenced to work. After about 20 minutes I came to a halt. Looked down......that high quality Chinese tube that I put in the rear tire last year had belched the valve stem. Went inside and called Dad. "Is your 4 -wheeler running?" "Nope - got it back from the shop and it ran for about 2 weeks and it's dead again." This is a Yamaha that has been a pain from the day he bought it. It has spent more time at the dealership than on the farm. Anyway......scratching my head......I'll pull it with the Fordson Dexta......a little overkill for a 4 foot plug core but it got the job done. Now I need to put out seed and fertilizer. I'll run to town and get a tube for the tire (while waiting on a new carb for my 4 wheeler). So I run to town. It's a 30 minute trip for me. Drop in the local Tractor Supply and pick up a new tube for the lawnmower. Guess I should get a new tire, but it costs more than my lawnmower is worth. I come back out the door and the local Cub Scout pack hits me up for money. They are selling popcorn and peanuts. I didn't have any cash. No problem.....he said we can take a credit card. Ok, "How much is this bag of Caramel Popcorn?" "Twenty -five dollars comes the reply." DANG. It's the Cub Scouts so I made a contribution. Came on home to put the tube in my tire. Opened the sealed box and pull out the tube. It is already cracked in the folds where it was in the box, so I'm back to square one. My sister told me the other day that she had a limb down in her yard that was blocking her circle drive. I asked her son if I could pull it out of the way with the tractor. He said yeah.....the tractor could pull it. I head up there with the tractor and chain. When I get there, the limb is about 12 inches in diameter and laid in the forks of a little maple tree in her yard. I didn't want to destroy the maple so back to the house for the chainsaw. I cut the limb up and proceed to pull the brush out of the drive. I feel a burning sensation on my forearm. I thought it was a stinging caterpillar but I didn't see him. Cleaned up the rest of the brush and went to stack the wood so Dad could come get it for firewood. I stepped in a yellow-jackets nest at the base of the maple and was promptly rewarded including one in the inside of my nose.......So, I'm quitting for the day. Just hope no planes fly over for a few hours. This bad Mojo needs to subside. :-\
Wudman
I hope the popcorn is good after all that!!!
Man not a good day.
Sorry about the stings but at least no blood or breaks! Putting down grass seed will just cause more work in the spring anyway.
This months carnage report:
Splitter shot the filter across the yard
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/1003181400.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1539134139)
Bobcat tire MIA, reused foam chunks in it are held together by chain
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/1003180959.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1539175275)
Bobcat's Hoof governor sleeps with the fishes
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/1003181400a.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1539175317)
Dozer starter back out again, new solenoid already arc'n and spark'n
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/1006181741.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1539175291)
Forktruck blew out a rod packing
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0717181218.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1539227491)
And the kid hit a growth spurt
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/1009181351a-1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1539227463)
[No pics of my roadranger getting jammed in 2 gears at once, the bobcat's pertronix distributor eating up rotors and caps, me catching it on fire pretty good, clogged septic system, or busted dishwasher.]
livin the dream.
DanG, you are a walking accident! Hope that mojo improves!
Thats just awful :(. Hope you have a better day.
This is my completely normal life, it doesnt even bother me. How could i help anyone else fix their stuff if i wasnt in constant practice?
Mike, I thought the tire patch I have on the side wall of my 2600 ford tractor that I bush hog with was bad, but after seeing your tire repair, I think mine will last a while longer. :) I like this thread you started. I should of took the picture of the blow out I had on my 3500 dodge the other day. Trying to run that ole Michelin too long will cost me a few buck. Banjo
Now don't take this the wrong way but looking at that filter and belt drive governor makes me wonder if you have a tendency to over tighten things? :D
Yikes Mike. I deal with this and think it is a bad day. I have no right !
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gg
Well then dont take this the wrong way, but Im actually a pretty good mechanic (i have to be to have gotten this far on this little) and you guys may not actually grasp what youre lookin at. ;D
The filter had an incorrect cold bypass valve in it that kept jamming in its seat crooked, and the filter must have been on for ages. Its a cobbled together splitter i got in a trade. I couldnt make any sense of the numbers to even know what micron and the plan was to go through it and make changes when i get my next container hauled down. Ive built plenty of filtration systems and have shelves of parts in massachusetts. Return pressure blew the unit apart, not tightening. Now is the critical time to split wood, not worry about wearing out equipment thats sposta keep me from wearing out. Filter deleted for now, wood getting split. Its how i survive.
The hoof governors are ancient and huge money.. Whoever has the reman parts isnt making them easy to find. So the oil oozes out, the front bearing scatters and the flyweights can opener the housing in a minute or so. It was only on there to tension the waterpump, it wasnt controlling the throttle. I tossed it and put a mower belt idler on. One hour fix. I wasnt gonna throw $800 at a junk bobcat, i aim to use up every drop of that machine.
The dozer had a brand new solenoid full of corrosion, so the brazilians who made it could save 2 pesos by not using any dielectric grease inside. It was welding itself from corrosion induced arcing. Stuck starters cause fires. I unsoldered the end cap and fixed it right. Crazy fast starts again. That komatsu 6's must have no pump advance at all.
I didnt put chain on the bobcat tire to hold it together, the chains were on for traction. But it was a burnt machine that i rebuilt cheap and the tops were weak from the fire. i drive on concrete demo and rebar all day with it. No tire likes that. Have another set of foam filled street tires that just wont go in my clay so i have to make OTT tracks and swap them on soon. But id rather abuse the foam off these rims then have to cut it. I got enough on my plate already!
Speaking of tires, i blew 11 this summer on road. Since 2015 ive probably blown 30 to 40, maybe more. Im pretty good with levers and ether.
Quote from: g_man on October 11, 2018, 10:44:38 AM
Yikes Mike. I deal with this
Blown hose?
I am pretty fortunate to have a hose maker, dies and a lot of ends. It took about 5 yrs to collect it all and gets me out of most jams. Fortunately there is a great hose shop about 30 mins from me when i cant cobble something.
My goal is to never leave home and work every day. I avg about 1 to 2 week stretches. Most of the bits i need come in the mail. Saves me a lot of half hour trips to town.
Quote from: mike_belben on October 11, 2018, 11:01:34 AMMy goal is to never leave home and work every day.
That is why I collect/save every nut and bolt I come across. All somewhat organized that I can usually find what I need:
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Probably 5,000 pieces :o I still have another 10 or 20 jars of "collections" to sort through.
Organization is key! If it takes you 3 days to stumble on the thing you know you have, a trip to town is a better value.
I have the primary stuff in bins and get by pretty well. I manage to group things well enough that if i find the group, ill have every nut and bolt from that chainsaw thats been moved across the country and been apart 5 yrs. My problem is no shop and still half way moved. I have hardware store bins to put up once im settled, then i will start sorting the 5 gallon buckets of 30cents/lb scrapyard hardware. Money doesnt matter that much in the country. You and your neighbors get by trading mower blades and weed wacker coils. Junk is important here.
And your setup looks great john! I have order envy.
Quote from: mike_belben on October 11, 2018, 11:01:34 AM
Blown hose?
I am pretty fortunate to have a hose maker, dies and a lot of ends. It took about 5 yrs to collect it all and gets me out of most jams. Fortunately there is a great hose shop about 30 mins from me when i cant cobble something.
My goal is to never leave home and work every day. I avg about 1 to 2 week stretches. Most of the bits i need come in the mail. Saves me a lot of half hour trips to town.
You got it. Replaced all three. Never left home. DiscountHydraulicHose.com. Ordered Friday got hoses Tuesday. Regular US mail.
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They been there a while. Lots of PB Blaster and a "Box" Wrench. :D
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gg
Man, I guess I need to take more pictures. Mike is too *DanG far ahead and probably 10x the mechanic. For instance, I spent 10 mins trying to get an oil drain plug off the morning. Have to go back with a pipe for leverage. Someone must have tightened it on with an impact wrench.
Took Mikes advice though and pumped the hydraulic and fuel tanks empty after I ripped 3 hoses off on the forwarder crane, found the hydraulic tanks nearly empty (not from me) so it was worthwhile getting them clean. Diesel tank is clean too (cheap harbor freight transfer pump does wonders.
Quote from: nativewolf on October 11, 2018, 12:10:36 PM
Man, I guess I need to take more pictures. Mike is too *DanG far ahead and probably 10x the mechanic. For instance, I spent 10 mins trying to get an oil drain plug off the morning. Have to go back with a pipe for leverage. Someone must have tightened it on with an impact wrench.
Took Mikes advice though and pumped the hydraulic and fuel tanks empty after I ripped 3 hoses off on the forwarder crane, found the hydraulic tanks nearly empty (not from me) so it was worthwhile getting them clean. Diesel tank is clean too (cheap harbor freight transfer pump does wonders.
Pictures are good - that way you can figure out what you were doing when you wake up from your nap.
gg
Quote from: mike_belben on October 11, 2018, 10:54:27 AMWell then dont take this the wrong way, but Im actually a pretty good mechanic
I figure you know what your doing Mike, with used equipment you inherit not only the design flaws of the manufacture but also the misuse and abuse and half baked repairs of the previous owners, the only reason my old backhoe does not break more often is I don't use it often.
Planetary carnage.
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Ouch!
That has an expensive look about it
The Least Likely To Buff Out Award goes to KIKO!
That looks like a "it was making a noise, so I turned up the radio" type of mechanical failures!😂
(https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/default/cheesy.gif)(https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/default/cheesy.gif) you guys are killing me
Quote from: kiko on October 11, 2018, 03:06:47 PM
Planetary carnage.
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"what's that? Speak up this machines been making a helluva noise for 2 weeks now"
I'll have to start taking some pictures around here. A few years back one of the drivers came in 3 times during the same storm with the right rear outside wheel in a perfect triangle- never hit nothing. Another tore a hydraulic tank off the truck. He didn't think he'd hit anything that hard. Won't even talk about what some of the plows come in looking like
Real special to come in the shop and find this. One of the herders left his truck (loaded) in front of the door and put this PTO shaft and
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/Superliner_PTO_shaft.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1539737852)
hose on the floor for someone to deal with in the morning...............
I thought you were building some rod iron house plant arbor there for a minute.
At a quick glace I thought it was a hyd hose. :o
I believe I still have a matching drive shaft to that one in the junk pile somewhere if you need a pair.
Overloaded ??
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25160/10141~1.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1540861633)
Nah just underweldered. ;D
I can't believe the stuff people can break!
He could have been trying to pull stumps. If you can't lift them out, try driving away. :)
If you stand farther away when you take the picture, it'll look better... Maybe not
Turns out that I didn't really need to turn up the hydraulic pressure on the tractor to split some huge pine logs....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34884/IMG_2513.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1541332799)
Its split alright. We will rebuild!
My splitter is feeling the effects of running off of my backhoe hydraulics. Break it, weld it better, try a bigger chunk of wood. :D I don't know what the relief on the splitter is, but the Kubota is putting out 3100.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14240/20181104_161710.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1541380990)
I think you have a low tire Dave. ;D
Nah thats just a slow leak.
I'm going to take those off. Then I can get the beam right on the ground for the big chunks.
Dave,
I think it's just flat on the bottom, you should be good!
These pictures remind of my days on ground support for helilogging. Those guys could break a steel ball with a rubber hammer.
Wait till it gets below zero.
Quote from: barbender on July 25, 2018, 12:05:49 AM
This promises to be a good thread😁 I usually don't tear too much stuff up, but when I screw up it's usually pretty bad. A few weeks back, I backed my loaded forwarder into the front of a truck that was loading on the landing (worst part was, he was parked exactly where I told him to load) I was just barely creeping when I hit him, in fact I never even felt it. Pushed him back about 3'. He had just started loading, if he would've had more wood on it probably would've totally wiped his truck out. As it was, it didn't look too bad, but it all adds up- Ali-arc bumper, A/C condenser, radiator, air to air cooler, grill and hood. $10K or so👎👎👎 I'll have my head hanging quite low for some time. No, I did not think taking pictures at the time would be appropriate 😑
The only people who don't make mistakes are the people who don't do anything.
Thank you, gaproperty. As it turns out, insurance covered it so it least it didn't come straight out of the boss' pocket. I need to get a back up camera on my machine, not long after the incedent you just quoted, I had an elderly landowner (I later learned he has fused vertebrae in his neck, so he can't look up or to the sides) drive right up behind me when I was unloading on the landing. I started backing up to go to another pile, and I happened to remember the processor operator telling me that this landowner had a tendency to get in the way. So I decided to turn a bit to see behind myself, there was a Suburban about 5' behind me!! If I wouldn't have seen him, I would have drove right over the top of him before I felt it. It was a very bad move on his part to drive right into the blind spot of the machine, when I wasn't even aware he was out there, especially in light of the fact he could barely back up a vehicle because of his medical condition. I mustered my best stern tone (it's not really my way, especually with an elder that you are working for) and told him under no circumstances could he come that close to the machine. He was very sorry, and I felt bad for jumping his case but I'd rather do that than run him over!
one of this weeks projects. rear springs 2564 ih truck. i did one side by myself. it can be done but it aint fun. the other side i had a little help. when you burn those 1" u bolts off its like a cannon going off..........bang
And I thought I had it bad having to change the 3 hoses to one track drive motor on my excavator (one, pressure each direction and one pressure equalizer or vent). Tight to work but nothing like what you guys are dealing with.
Theyre even louder with a die grinder, did tons of em at the JY.
Toss an empty whip cream can in a bonfire sometime if you wanna hear a sonic boom. Just beware it can blow the logs right out. The kinda bang where your head ducks at the same time as your feet jump and you become a little hovering ball of 'holy chit what was that' for a second or two.
TC 726 Articulation joint carnage
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Dang.
Unbelievable! Them Georgia boys know how to trash a machine, I've seen it before!😂 I wish I had pictures of when that Ponsse forwarder Deck used to own, had the frame/center section give up the ghost in dramatic fashion!!
Thats called extracting maximum value!
I might be have to post the repair in the daily Fab thread. Here is one my helper took, his lens is not scratched.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25160/10877.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1543362906)
I have a frame of a TC 718 , I plan to cut those forks loose and weld them into this one.
Still more run left in that pin. ;D
Hey Bub, you hear that noise??
Hard to believe someone could tolerate running a machine like that.
A local scrap yard had a couple of Trojan 2000 loaders worn pretty bad there. But not that bad. They had a guy come in and weld them up and line bore them. $750 each. I think that was a good deal.
They come apart easy when there wore like that . That was planed right
Kiko, that Ponsse processor you used t service is up here cutting away still. Pushing 30K hours, Jake just called me the other day and thought the engine had finally given up the ghost. He was ready to put a new engine in, and didn't even feel bad about it. Well, it turns out it was just a bad ECM, it just got delivered back to the woods this afternoon to go cut some more😁
Thats a lotta bd feet! I found the buyers for half a dozen cut up cat 235[A] excavators and 966 wheel loaders from the 70s. 19k hours is the highest meter i ever saw. Granted a few prob croaked before the machines.
Was there ever a skidder with any form of suspension at either end? I cant help but think an unspring chassis has no choice but to hammer the center pin and axle cradle pivots.
When I bought my TF C7D,the guy I bought it from said he'd changed the cradle pins. He used soft steel for the pins. Grease holes got plugged & after a few months it took it apart & they looked like the one there's a picture of.
Barbender, those kind of hours are rare as hens teeth down here, A random knucle boom not operating a delimber I have seen that high. I think the summer temps shorten engine life. Extreme heat always blows the engines on the edge of failure.
Mike, not that it matters but this is a buncher. I have never seen a skidder with any kind of suspention . I doubt it would take more than a day or two to rip that out from under a skidder.
her I am picturing the trail fix after that pin fails to get it home so I could fix it. Ahhh the four wheeling side of me is always so strong :)
Probably a little more involved than my normal ratchet straps and vise grips :)
Good piece of hickory and make for the trailer.
Quote from: barbender on November 27, 2018, 11:32:06 PM
Kiko, that Ponsse processor you used t service is up here cutting away still. Pushing 30K hours,
The first Ponsse Ergo I ran had 22k hours on a non working hour meter when I started, I ran it for 3.5 years adding a few more thousand hours to the meter. Machine got traded in and auctioned off and last I knew was still working daily (over 2 years since I ran it now). Was the original motor, trans, pumps. Center pins had been done, one axle had been replaced and the processing head had been replaced. Sure the machine was a constant breakdown struggle but you cant really blame the machine with 25k+ hours of hammering wood thru it.
Kiko, I agree on those high temps. What surprises me with this engines longevity is it was overheated when it was down there, I don't remember what had to be repaired but the head had to come off. I know keeping the hydraulic temps down in the summer was a real challenge as well. You don't see a lot of conventional equipment make it to those hours up here either, but I guess everyone might quit paying attention after 10K hours😊 It seems 8-10k hours is fairly typical engine life on most logging equipment. The Mercedes 906 in the Ponsse machines has been a very good motor for us, I think the boss would put those in everything if he could.
I remember that tear down, I was not directly involved in that one. Jeff was working there at that time I believe. I once referred to one of the Ponsse trainers as an operator . He was offended. He then showed me how to remove and replace the main cylinder on the forwarder using straps tied off to the bunks and himself as the counter weight. Trainer from then on. The Mercedes is a good engine , those individual pump units can be pain, and finding someone around here to do an ecu replacement/program .
Also I think I remember the center joint failure. I believe Ponsse techs traveled from Wisconsin to take that on.
Unless there were two (sure could've been😁) the one failure occurred up in Wisconsin after they left Georgia. It actually wasn't the center bearing or pins, the frame just collapsed. All of Stanley's monster loads of SYP finally caught up with it. Stanley sold the machine to the guy they were contracting to in WI, who rebuilt it. It's still over there as far as I know. Stanley was homesick and headed back for Georgia.
There were two then. There was also the forgot to unplug the computer before welding incident. I thankfully was only involved in the aftermath.
Propane hot water heater was replaced several months ago. Did the swap out with new plumbing too. Now leaking at one of the connections. Wonder what I will see when I take it apart.
I know little about plumbing. But I do know that if the water was already hot you would not need to heat it.
By golly Kiko you are practically a jeenyus. ;D
I have a thought on that but will bite my tongue ;D
So I came up with a change of plans. I found a whole front frame for less than it would cost me to repair this one. Just got to go get one state over.
Not really carnage but still wasn't a great day. Although it wasn't very steep half tracks on slippery ground can give an inexperienced operator a ride in a hurry. Operator had a bit of a headache and only one bolt was broke on bunk extender. Could have been a lot worse
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13639/IMG_0825.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1543778673)
Not good! I haven't flipped one yet, I'm actually surprised by how far they can be pushed. We only run tracks under the bunks, so I've never experienced a full on sidehill slide!
I have never done it with a feller-buncher, but had my share of times with an excavator. Usually feels like a 25 ton skateboard,but with less control
todays most miserable project. replace a starter f550 6.0. the first 2 bolts started hard but they came. the top 1 is a real pain. take the inner fender out so you can see it. a 24" extension and just when it should have started it broke. i bought a nice set of mac left hand drills and ez outs. the drills cut real good. going to let it set over nite maybe santas elves will get the bolt out
That sounds like an aggravating day. Sorry man.
drilled and tapped the broken bolt not much left of it after drilling. put the starter on turn key crash bang wirl dose that twice then cranks fine. i never buy starters or alt. from napa or carquest. i always have mine fixed. but he was busy so i got it from carquest. they found another one and will be delivering it. we will see if this one is any better
A guy local to me recently had the starter on his 6.0 bite the bullet. After trying rebuilt and new starters from both Napa and Carquest (4 different starters in all) with no satisfaction he bought a Motorcraft from Ford. Problem solved.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/Wirtes_4020__2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1544579957)
I'm helping an older guy put a clutch in his JD 4020 tractor. While the flywheel is off anyway, it is time to replace the rear seal. All was routine until we found this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/Wirtes_4020.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1544579889)<
The seal retainer was also cracked. He's had the tractor for a long time. This was done before he got it, so we worked with it the best we could. It'll buff out.>
I've spent the last week working on the skidsteer, new spindle bearings and seal, some deferred maintenance. 4 flats so took the tires in for tubes, when I went to pick them up, apparently they have enough nails out of them to make a recycling run :D. Got it put back together, loaded and brought it home behind the Ranger... uh yeah the chevy is headless at the moment, 1st gear up and over the knob. made it home and yup, ran over a rock sumwhere and bent a rim on the trailer, pshhh, as we say around here way too often, "you'll have some of that on these big jobs" ::).
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After 7 years and many, many, tons of firewood, the engine on my splitter is kaput. It ground to a screeching halt and seized. I can honestly say that machine has paid for itself at least twice producing firewood over the years I have owned it. Luckily, I also have a pressure washer that has 190cc engine with about 10 hours on it for an engine swap. (The water pump on the washer got kind of cold one night). (https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/default/cheesy.gif)
I have the identical splitter branded by huskee with a 13hp honda retrofit. Its pretty decent. Traded for a cub cadet kid tractor that i got for a set of 8 lug 19.5 breadvan wheels that i got for a few phone calls to make a sale of some machine i didnt own. So none of it owes me!
No cash added is my favorite kinda purchase.
Holy smokes Mike! I can't remember how I paid for my iced coffee today (thats a lie, it was spare change in the cup holder)! Did you out all that on the bill of sale? ;D
No but you got your coffee right then on the spot and i waited years to have a splitter!
Quote from: barbender on November 28, 2018, 08:14:51 PM
Unless there were two (sure could've been😁) the one failure occurred up in Wisconsin after they left Georgia. It actually wasn't the center bearing or pins, the frame just collapsed. All of Stanley's monster loads of SYP finally caught up with it. Stanley sold the machine to the guy they were contracting to in WI, who rebuilt it. It's still over there as far as I know. Stanley was homesick and headed back for Georgia.
I wonder if this is the guy who fixed that machine. Here is a video of the start of the repair process. He has others on his channel about this machine. Very Interesting to watch a master mechanic and welder repair something like this. I wish I had the skills. Here is the link Wow! Ponsse Axle ep2 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S10nMvG_Se8)
I just can't understand how people can abuse machines to such a level!! it hurts and could a have been prevented and fixed earlier with not much money involved
Nope different guy. That repair right there is a fairly common one (from what I saw, I didn't watch the whole video). The vertical bolts on top of the axle housing loosen up, and if you don't catch them and tighten them down, they'll break. Once they break, all of the stress is transferred to the long horizontal thru bolts on the bottom. Then those break, your C-frame that sits over the axle will get destroyed. I say it's a fairly common repair, by that I mean the first bolts loosening up and breaking. Beyond that your operator is really not paying attention. I check the nuts on those to make sure they're tight every time the machine gets moved, since we clean the bunks off then anyhow. As far as how does that stuff get broke in the first place, cowboy operators. I drive slow, no slamming over stumps- I figure if it hurts me, it hurts the machine too. I got my first new machine a year and ahalf ago, which is now approaching 3000 hours on the clock. Those bolts haven't loosened yet. I mound my machine up with every stick I can get on, and drive slow. Other operators throw a quick load on up to the top of the stakes, and slam their way out to the landing, breaking stuff the whole way🙄 In my experience, it's the big shock loads that break stuff.
The spread axle trailer im hauling is cracked everywhere. Put a bunch of weight on something and put it on uneven ground for a million cycles.. stress is gonna eventually win.
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Spit 40ft of boom chain out the back, makes for good times. Threw a repair link in, have to fix a couple more, this job gets done she is going to the shop and getting a new boom chain.
Me and trailers...
Last week i tore up the spread axle and we swapped to an old, been sitting forever closed tandem flatbed for now to get by.. I hauled about 450 miles with it yesterday but i lost my wallet in the afternoon [it was under the spread i was working on] and there was some snow so it looked like school could be cancelled and i said i cant risk being gone nor should i drive with no CDL in hand. This guy dont care but i said no and he called the only other sorta licensed driver that doesnt want the load. He ran it half way down and called me this morning saying the whole trailer is broke. Cant figure out where but other trucks are honking at him and its rocking all over the road. I felt a little wiggle back there but nothing bad.
So i dunno but im off to bubbleyum two junky trailers back together on a cold day. Wish my phone cam worked. Quarrying is hard on equipment. Theres a private junkyard full of dead iron that gave up the ghost under these big slabs of rock.
The past week was rough.
Broke the loader on the 706 where the tilt cylinder attaches to the frame. Have it chained up, so it is still kind of usable to set out hay.
But, Sunday the fan came off and bashed the radiator of the 706. So it's DOA for a bit until parts come in.
We still don't have a bale spike for the front of the Deere, which is sad because it actual has FWA and a cab (and the cab has a heater!)... Just have the 3 point spike on the back. This means we can't use the flatbed gooseneck trailer to move hay. (Kind of okay as my big lathe is still on it.)
So of course on the second load of the "lowboy" bale carrier, we find that part of the neck on the gooseneck is split...
And of course, the only licensed truck we have with a gooseneck ball (dad's) is with my brother while he fixes his Exploder... I can't give him either of my spare vehicles as they need repairs to. Can't take anything anywhere to be fixed yet...
We may be down to getting bales one at a time for a bit as I sold our last good wagon in October since, "We'll never use one of these again." LOL We are at pick up sticks level of "Have to fix this before we can fix this."
At least we just paid property taxes, so we don't have to worry about being loaded down with all that extra money. :D :D
I had one of those days too. I left the Bobcat's lights on yesterday after plowing snow. I tried to boost it with the charger without letting it charge at least a little bit and the solenoid stuck :-\ :-\ While diagnosing that I stepped on the charger cord and pulled out the several year old temporary repair ::) ;D Got it temporarily repaired again and got the battery charging with the cables un hooked. It took three trips up the hill to the garage and one to firewood machine shed to get the right tools and materials to work on things and of course the machine is wedged in between the wall and the syrup evaporator so I had to walk all the way around to get to both ends of the machine and there are more than a few obstacles. Next week's project is cleaning the sugarhouse ;) :D I took the starter and solenoid both loose and wiggled them around after tapping both the starter and the solenoid ever so gently with a hammer;) :D :) before I unhooked the battery. By this time the battery was charged and when I hit the battery post with the cable the starter engaged and the solenoid released. Cool 8) 8) And then it started with the key. Then after cleaning up a bit of snow I lost a tire chain and a link came off the other one. Up to the garage, jack it up and put the chain back on and fix the other one with a shackle. In the mean time the 550 has been plugged in. It's been starting harder than it should because it needs a lift pump. This issue developed a few days ago the last time it was used. It did start but only after hooking up jumper cables to the Ram. Finally on to doing a 5 face cord load of wood for us, my main objective for the day ;D :) and it needed to be done today because of obligations the rest of the week and single digit highs forecast for the weekend. Got half of it done before I had to pick the boys up from school and Zach helped with rest of it when we got home and he picked me up at the shop in town after dropping off the 550. It was of those days but we made it.
Im off to an early start for carnage this morning. I felt one little wiggle on the interstate yesterday and looked around, tire was low. Chalked it up to loose KP's following a bad road. Today felt it for a second and pulled over before getting on the highway. Saw brake to hub contact and got turned around. Lost the wheel at 1mph, 2.2 miles from home. Waiting on a $200 sling job. First time ive paid for a bailout since i started moving in 2013. I think 1 in 20+ break downs isnt a bad record.
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I am pretty new at this but I've been having so much fun checking out all the stuff on the Forum. Anyway, last week it is already I was trying to build a landing for my cordwood. I was placing a log with my forks and it got away from me. It broke the wheel off my tractor. I did have it fixed that day thanks to parts tractors and just for clarification, the wheel that is under the tractor, I put there to rest the the tractor on when I went to put the new spindle in place.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52265/tractor_wheel_broken_off~2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1548028505)
Well that settles it folks. Check your spindle locknuts!
Mine today was a little less costly........Note to self.......don't try to put a 25 inch stick of wood into a 24" stove with a glass door. I'll normally get it in there at the proper angle and the door will close. Today as I cinched her up, it came through the glass.....oops.......Checked the internet and an Englander replacement part was $129.00....aftermarket discounted to $119.00. I found a glass dealer online that would cut it for me for $69.00 plus shipping (of $20.00). I called my local glass company to see if they had a piece of ceramic glass in stock......Nope. So, I called the closest machine and welding shop. He fixed me up with a piece of 1/4 inch plate. I got by for $10.00 and some good conversation. Guess I don't have to worry about breaking the glass any more.
Wudman
I was really hoping to just continue reading this thread but I knew it was to good to be true as long as it was.
The weather guessers are threatening freezing rain tonight and 40 tomorrow. Got home tonight figuring I will push the snowbanks back before I can't move them since I didn't do a good job when it was really cold. So i get the UTV out and start plowing. it has been feeling really sluggish lately been meaning to check it out.
I start clearing up by the house and made some nice big snowmobile jumps :) then I start clearing the main drive waiting for wife to get home.... and waiting.... and waiting.... and waiting some more. Just wish she would get home so I can do the hill that needed it more than anything. In the process of cleaning up at the house I slid off the driveway and get stuck. crap! so I get the kubota out and pull it out. ok no big deal. Continue plowing. still feeling sluggish. Wife FINALLY gets home. so I head down the driveway. get to the end get everything cleared out then head back up. can't get any speed or any traction trying to figure out what is going on. Ended up getting stuck in the middle of the driveway in about 1/2" of packed snow on the hill.
I think I found my sluggish problem. Tire must have been low. ok. no big deal. I have to back down and take a more strategic run to get up to the house. manage to get it up to the house. Figure just going to put air in it pop it back onto the bead and finish up.
Yea. sure. nice try. apparently when I got it stuck I ripped the valve stem. So I pulled the valve stem parked it in the shed and went inside.
Of course after I got half my stuff off I remembered I needed to clear off the roof so it doesn't ice *DanG on me.
Put stuff back on back out I go. Now I am inside typing this thinking I love a good story.
Hold my beer and watch this.... :)
All that tree pushing finally caught up to jackies front end loader. Cracked most of the way through the passenger arm and half way thru driver side. Also cracked a cylinder rod weld at the eyelet, and busted out the framework for the quick attach pin setup.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213190924c.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550102882)
I chased the cracks out and drilled the ends then bound it all into submission for a hot glue job.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213191001b.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550102893)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213191001c.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550102903)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213191044.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550095748)
Two hours, a hundred bucks and a mile of ER70S6 later everyone is happy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213191147c.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550102921)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213191147a.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550102914)
Like Mike it was the day of loader breakage. One of the pins didn't drop into the bucket, so when I used the bucket to push myself backwards out of the snow the bucket cocked sideways on the loader and snapped the pipe that connects the left and right quick attach pin boxes.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20190213_122124.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550104793)
Lots of beveling, welding, and grinding and i was back up and running.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20190213_130905.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550104512)
Good stories! Of, er, bad circumstances! They're building us a new shop to work in. The builders had extra sheets of steel roof deck that was going in the dumpster so I asked if I could have some. They said sure, take it all! Even cut it down to 12' so I could haul it. Long story short, loaded it in the truck overhanging the tail gate, backed into my parking spot and went back to work. Few hours later I was called outside to find out I gouged the hood of the car next to me while backing in. I never even knew! $1200 later I brought home $900 of free metal roof.
Ooof!
I made $100 and lit the right arm of two carhart insulated hoodies on fire doing it. About $60 each.
Just how it goes i guess. Electric stays on another day, put some gas in the truck and back to the poor house for tomorrow.
Quote from: mike_belben on February 13, 2019, 08:37:13 PM
Ooof!
I made $100 and lit the right arm of two carhart insulated hoodies on fire doing it. About $60 each.
Just how it goes i guess. Electric stays on another day, put some gas in the truck and back to the poor house for tomorrow
If your hoodies are anything like mine they probably burnt pretty fast. Mine stay soaked in motor and hydraulic oil. :D
My dear wife loves it when I throw the bibs and jackets in the washing machine. ;D
Quote from: mike_belben on February 13, 2019, 07:29:12 PM
All that tree pushing finally caught up to jackies front end loader. Cracked most of the way through the passenger arm and half way thru driver side. Also cracked a cylinder rod weld at the eyelet, and busted out the framework for the quick attach pin setup.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213190924c.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550102882)
I chased the cracks out and drilled the ends then bound it all into submission for a hot glue job.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213191001b.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550102893)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213191001c.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550102903)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213191044.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550095748)
Two hours, a hundred bucks and a mile of ER70S6 later everyone is happy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213191147c.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550102921)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0213191147a.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1550102914)
Looks like a European Quicke Alo loader frame.
Good eye, its a quickie Q750.
I suspect theyre made of some stamped slightly alloyed plate that the 250X did not like, as it welded very blobby and sputtery like when patching a dump body. I made my hitch right after on the same settings with hot roll and it melted in beautiful.
Mike, I started running into some new metal a few years ago that would have sand or something in places in it, it was juust plain old mild steel and would even cause a sputter rafter grinding clean and using a wire welder with gas.
Yeah maybe youre onto something. i guess it could just be some chineseum pot metal garbage in there. I have no doubt that it was prepped and clean, that the welder is good and that i can weld. But that was the nicest i could get out of it and there was a lot of black sootyness to be brushed off between passes, more than normal.
It is just my theory, but looking at your pictures, I am prone to belive something like that was going on.
I have noticed factory welds on a lot of stuff built in the last 15 or so years look similar, and some of it is machine welds, taking the human equation out of it.
I forgot to ask, is your spindle on your rig salvageable?
Well, nearly 30yrs of welding hasnt done my eyesight any favors, so i do swerve around like a drunk when i lose track of my lane, which is often on flat plane work.
The spindle threads wiped out. I got another from the junkyard off a 2001 model 4700 with the double lock pins. I mushroomed a few punches before drilling the staked flush head pin. then messed up a ball peen hammer beating on the kingpin. Finally had to throw in the towel and pay the $200 [vs $100] to have them torch the beam off. I wasted like 4 trips over a week on that. Then my buddies 30T press wouldnt budge the pin so i just cooked the whole pile into slag with oxy propane to get the knuckle cleaned off.
Need money to come in before i can order a kingpin kit. Then more money for caliper and brake hose. Then more for a tire. Such is life.
If youre gonna lose a wheel bearing, PARK AND HAVE IT TOWED BEFORE THE HUB FLIES OFF! Youll save a fortune.
Well, the Ranger is getting a new long block. The oil pan was full of metal shavings and the top end was knocking. Got the shavings cleaned out but knew it was a matter of a mile or two. This time there was a cam bearing in the pan, 3 collapsed lifters, a shattered lifter keeper and another cam bearing squirting out of its journal, cam sensor gear worn razor sharp, the cam looks, umm, interesting. Somehow I suspect they aren't going to core this one. Nothing flew outta the block but it's kind of impressive inside. If I'm lucky I'll dig outta this hole about June :D
Quote from: Don P on February 14, 2019, 06:31:01 PM
Well, the Ranger is getting a new long block. The oil pan was full of metal shavings and the top end was knocking. Got the shavings cleaned out but knew it was a matter of a mile or two. This time there was a cam bearing in the pan, 3 collapsed lifters, a shattered lifter keeper and another cam bearing squirting out of its journal, cam sensor gear worn razor sharp, the cam looks, umm, interesting. Somehow I suspect they aren't going to core this one. Nothing flew outta the block but it's kind of impressive inside. If I'm lucky I'll dig outta this hole about June :D
Don. The way it's going our way I don't know if the mud will be out of the hole by then. According to the channel 5 weather your getting it as bad as we are. Maybe worse. Wasn't going to go back out on the road doing any work for the company I do some work for. Stay here and log some. Mud and bank account tells me I will be in Pittsburgh for next two weeks.
for the last couple weeks we are breaking plow trucks faster than i can repair them. the volvo has had far less problems. only a brake hose and abs valve along with the bearing on the spinner. ih several hoses. it wasnt that the hose broke the fitting rust to the point of leaking. broke a center bolt in the rear. thats mondays job. f550 broke a hose just as the county cop went by. sprayed his car with oil. he thought it was funny. today front axle u joint and it destroyed the short axle shaft. dealer didnt have the parts but they are in the warehouse in ct. be here Tuesday. i think i have had 4 days off since nov 1 either plow sand or repair. and i did see a mailbox get completely run down by.... the mail man.
Oof, thats a handful.
Knock on wood, my carnage is minimal compared to what I've read here. I need to hang out with you crazy (ADMIN LANGUAGE EDIT)
Nice to read I'm not the only one who has stuff to fix all the time, you'd think after almost four decades of fixing, you'd eventually run out of things in need of repair or maintenance.
Mike a question about your torque flex axles on your trailer that broke, was it the axle itself that broke or the mounting plate that bolts the axle to the trailer? For what its worth, when you win the lottery, they make trailers now that are hot dipped galvanized and won't rust ever, best deal out there for the money, I had my service body on my service truck dipped when it was new, that was almost 15 years ago now and it looks like the day it was first done, no rust what so ever, the truck however might need to be replaced soon due its cab and frame rust, but the service body is still like new.
Well the trailer booboo (like the wrecked steer spindle) is entirely my fault. Id overloaded the trailer many times and rust had also taken its toll and started flexing the torflex mounting tab. I knew it needed fixed but couldnt get the trailer to my welder and vice versa down here in TN. Figured im going up empty, ill weld it at my dads. His yard was a disaster of disassembled vehicles, no chance. The load was pretty light and i lost the gamble that id make it down to TN and fix it at a friends shop. Now instead of $10 in consumables its $1000 in special order parts and not having my trailer or the load sitting on it for a year. My coates tire balancer may be junk now.
Live and learn i guess. Its not like im out taking vacations and buying golf clubs. I try to maintain things as best i can and lose that battle on occasion for having too much to maintain on zero dollars. All i ever do is work and just, just barely get by. Like all the belbens before me. we are well suited to it atleast.
Yea I know how you feel, your not the lone ranger on just getting by, I tend to view it as a good year if at the end, I had enough money to pay all my bills and buy all the parts I needed for the year, most years I'm usually short on paying for all the parts.
But look at the bright side, when we're old and mumbling to ourselves, just think off all the stories we have to tell kids, what do those that have never fixed anything have to say, gosh all I ever did was wash the windows and fuel it up??
i got the ih inside sunday. now that the ice and snow melted i can see what failed. the saddle that sets on the rear end with the spring stack on top of it broke. bolth sides. so the rear went back and sideways just enough for the slip joint on the drive shaft to come apart. to tow it home i toke the drive shaft out...well both pieces. a 25ft chain and we were off
That sounds like somebody backed up, gave her heck and rammed the pile.
call dealer give him the vin yes i have the parts. wrong part what he had was for a 23k rear mine is 30k. backtrack 50 miles then 35 more to the spring shop. they have everything. she is back out side in the cold. the volvo missed the warm garage
More gear carnage, both these showed up today. Swing final and pump drive box.
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i put the outer axle shaft in the f550 yesterday. other than fighting rust. you have to heat everything or so it seems. the ujoint came from ford made by spicer. no grease fitting. i bet it outlasts 4 u joints from napa. the odd part was you have to pry the caps off to install the joint. they seal really well
Quote from: kiko on February 23, 2019, 03:30:59 PM
More gear carnage, both these showed up today. Swing final and pump drive box.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25160/KIMG0503.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1550953767)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25160/KIMG0501.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1550953823)
that would be one of those jobs... where do i start where dose it stop and how far away do i need to run
So the pump box stalled the engine down . It twisted the input shaft, but did not bust the flex plate, go figure. I plan on replacing the flywheel bolts, the customer will have to make the decision on the flex plate , It has low hours and no visual damage, cost 2200.00. Have yet to get pricing on the gear set or complete replacement box. I think it was run dry and the oil added back by operator after the failure to CHA.
So I've had the Case 90xt skid steer out and have been getting lots of clean up done, and spread a bunch of loads of gravel at my daughters place, in the middle of moving a big pile of top soil, I thought to myself, wow, things have been going just great this week, the only money I've spent has been on fuel and grease......
5 minutes later the fan sucked in the end of the block heater cord and took out the rad, UGH.
Further proof that no good deed goes unpunished.
Sorry if this is a duplicate--my post disappeared!
I cleaned bilges today--kind of a reminder of when us non-rated snipes cleaned and polished the engine room spaces before a Captain's inspection. I pulled in a guy's hayfield Wednesday to fix his baler, and when I got out he asked me what was leaking at the back of my truck. DanG, it looks like oil---it looks like NEW oil!!!
Most of a 10 quart jug of Rotella had tipped over and the cap came off. I parked the truck pointed uphill that night and last night to help with dust control in the driveway.
This afternoon, I emptied out the back of the truck, except for the welder and the air compressor which are bolted down. I used rags to wipe up all the oil I could, then used a gas soaked rag and clean, dry rags to get it clean. I'll get some of those oil absorbent pads from my friend at the mill on Monday to catch what seeps out of the nooks and crannies. It was time to clean out the truck, b
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/truck_cleanup__1~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1563069951)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/truck_cleanup__2~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1563070004)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/truck_cleanup__3~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1563070036)
ut this wasn't the way I wanted to do it. Heck of a way to rustproof the body.
Dawn ultra and a garden hose will knock that right out. Shame about the oil tho!
Loaned our Skidsteer and 4/1 bucket to farmer that manages fields on properties where we manage forest. Good guys...they did not zip tie the hydraulic lines properly and 1 dragged a bit, broke right by hydraulic fitting. Put an end to his efforts to install a massive culvert, he was just using the skid steer to move fill over the culvert, it is well enplaced, great rock bed and sides. Just needed 2 feet of fill. Of course no shop around open on a saturday afternoon that will do a skidsteer hose.
So looks like a bearing in front roller of tracked kubota skid steer is smoked at only 600 hours. What could cause that? Maybe tracks too tight? Or ?
Quote from: nativewolf on July 14, 2019, 01:50:42 PM
So looks like a bearing in front roller of tracked kubota skid steer is smoked at only 600 hours. What could cause that? Maybe tracks too tight? Or ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34089/IMG-1314.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1563127104)
The idler oil seal has clearly failed but is the bearing already shot too?
Quote from: mike_belben on July 14, 2019, 02:05:57 PM
The idler oil seal has clearly failed but is the bearing already shot too?
Not sure, going to let it cool way way down. It was so darn hot I am afraid it is. I'm rather a 50 something year old mechanical newbie. Under warranty and it's always been well greased so I don't see why it should have failed.
a seal can fail with too much grease pushes it out not sure if this is your case but have seen it before gd luck and be safe out there
I suspect those are oil filled roller bearings. Youd see a fill plug if so. If theres a zerk its grease.
Quote from: mike_belben on July 15, 2019, 07:30:16 AM
I suspect those are oil filled roller bearings. Youd see a fill plug if so. If theres a zerk its grease.
The whole roller bearing assembly is greased from a central zerk fitting. I had a client meeting from 3-8 yesterday and so could not go back over to see it. I'll be there in a bit and clean the belly pan while I'm at it, nothing like seeing grease boiling to make you want to reduce fire risk. I have an outstanding recall on the machine so maybe they will pickup and take a look for me.
While delivering trusses to JMoore on Saturday the right rear brake locked up. It would release after backing up. We tore into it Saturday afternoon and found the brake shoe came apart and a piece was getting wedged between the brake and the drum.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_3664.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1566816372)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_3665.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1566816354)
Time to revive this old thread. (second try).
Farmer called me to replace the turbo on his CAT 924 loader. He took the turbo off and sent a guy to Milton to swap for a reman unit. I get to put the reman on------and stand behind the whole job. He also cleaned the loader up for me...not.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/Fairfields_loader_3~1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1577496149)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/Fairfields_loader_2~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1577496189)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/Fairfields_loader_1~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1577496241)
I have another job going for this customer. And he's got a shop full of jobs in progress. New Holland Lx885 skidsteer with a drive problem on one side. I rented the cab jack from the dealer and pulled the left drive motor and then the gearbox. Those units are at the dealer for teardown and estimate. I think the motor will be exchanged since the splines on the shaft and the coupler are really worn, and may be slipping by. The gearbox teardown is mostly for resealing, but it may need bearings. The drive chains and sprockets are in good shape.
The machine is parked between a pair of overhead doors. The ceiling light got readjusted when I jacked the cab and it went over center. No damage--yet.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/Fairfields_Lx885_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1577496723)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/Fairfields_Lx885_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1577496843)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34291/Fairfields_Lx885_3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1577496879)
I had to do a 4-wire drive hose in a LS170 last fall, if your bigger than a midget its not a fun job 🤣 I did a 1-1/4 5' hose on the limber the other day but no pictures, wasn't fun.
Yrs ago when I was an assistant engineer i had it drilled in my head, "we make 90% of our own problems" and that's very true. Someone put their fingers in this 471 the day before I got on and tomorrow I get to find the source of the fuel dilution, probably a jumper.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/20191227_213328.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1577500484)
I've never ran something this small, the dryer has been made a work bench before, no room downstairs. Taking a wild guess and rebuilding the valve, "its broken" is all I was told. 🤣
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/20191225_132554.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1577500587)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/20191227_213227.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1577500449)
Pneumatic air controls, slowly being phased out to a shortened system but you still see stuff like this.
Speaking of new hollands.. My dads ls170 will start over and over but shuts down after a minutes or so. Has the blinky oil droplet light on. Im 900 miles away from it.
He changed all the filters, oil, hydraulic and fuel. New hyd fluid too i think. Its not coughing out like fuel starvation, its shutting down clean like turning off the key. Do these have a computer? Im thinking maybe a bad pressure switch on the hydraulic side? Relay for the injection pump shutoff solenoid not holding?
A New Holland LS170 has a computer, several I believe, I own a LS565 and a LS190, both have a service run switch on them to flip to run it and keep it going, but first, you need to know if its oil pressure related, if its low on engine oil, it will do the shut down and keep doing it, most anything else can be safe to run when the switch is flipped into the service mode till you can get there to check it out. Most likely a pressure switch or a broken wire in the harness somewhere, usually where it bends in the boom under the panel inside the cab, can't recall which side it runs in though, thinking left as your sitting in the cab, might be outside and have to take the fender off to get at the harness, been a few years since I had that issue. On the 565 it has larger wires on the panel in the engine compartment, those keep going bad for some reason and cause engine shut downs all the time, some had bad computers in them as well which had to be replaced. Best of luck.
Quote from: mike_belben on January 02, 2020, 09:34:06 PM
Speaking of new hollands.. My dads ls170 will start over and over but shuts down after a minutes or so. Has the blinky oil droplet light on. Im 900 miles away from it.
He changed all the filters, oil, hydraulic and fuel. New hyd fluid too i think. Its not coughing out like fuel starvation, its shutting down clean like turning off the key. Do these have a computer? Im thinking maybe a bad pressure switch on the hydraulic side? Relay for the injection pump shutoff solenoid not holding?
I want to say I've got the books and can dig them out in a couple days when I get back.
Let me know when your ready for an engineers job on the boat, you would be a ROCKSTAR over here 🤣
If I stare at them long enough maybe they will put themselves in... 🤣
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/20200102_195614.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578022303)
Alot of people hate them, I'm still a 2 stroke fan at heart.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/20191228_223544.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578022361)
Thanks gang. Where is the service/run switch located?
I havent had much work since thanksgiving eric, dont tease me with visions of fat pay checks! ;D
On the older units, it was in the fuse holder area inside the cab, upper right hand side in the frame you had a cover to swing open and them flipped the toggle switch. I honestly don't know for sure on the 170 machines, ran one a dozen times this fall but never paid any attention to that or if they were the same as the older units, but I'm sure they have one still inside the cab somewhere, the rest of the machine hadn't been changed much, doubt the computer and electronics were either.
Quote from: mike_belben on January 03, 2020, 09:21:02 AM
Thanks gang. Where is the service/run switch located?
I havent had much work since thanksgiving eric, dont tease me with visions of fat pay checks! ;D
RH side, in the overhead on the cab edge sitting inside.
Half the battle of this industry Mike is just getting your foot in the door, you've got the twic so your halfway to a Z-card anyway,
If my calendar and memory are correct, you should be headed home around mid-week?
Just went thru this thread for the first time.
More Bubble gum! More bailing wire!
Makes me glad my oldest rolling machine is a 2007 with only 1600 hrs.
Only one leaking hydraulic cylinder so far, and one flat tire.
Of course I am only a hobby guy and dont have to rely on my stuff for a living like you fellows.
I do have a 42 yr old home built wood splitter on its second engine now.
Forgot all about this thread even though I had my fair share of carnage this year.
Started the summer by have hydraulic issues with a tractor. It has a closed center load sensing system and it was getting "hung" in high pressure and going over relief all the time heating the oil to scorching levels within minutes of running. So had plumbed in gauges to pinpoint things.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20190930_181325.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578151103)
That was all well and good until my gauge was sticking out and the 3 point ripped the pressure pipe right off the valve block.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/17912.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150935)
Pulled out the combing valve (tractor uses two open center gear pumps in tandem) to find a broken spring keeper and other trash stuck in there.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20190721_170530~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578150515)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/10775.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150538)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/9.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150948)
That resulted in pulling the pumps and locating the source of the trash which was a detent spring from the loader valve. So one new pump, new loader valve, bunch of new orings and backup seals, multiple system flushes and I was back in business.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/10330.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150959)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/19458.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578151743)
Should mention while all that was going on it was the middle of hay season and I was down an important tractor that I use for mowing and loading hay.
So while that tractor was down waiting for parts I was driving back from a custom hay baling job when I heard a pop and before I could figure out what it was this happened.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20190724_143457.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578150403)
One of the wedge bolts on the rim broke and off the wheel came. Smashing the fender off the tractor, bending the cab a little, and crunching the side panel on my new to me pristine baler. After a day of getting the tractor jacked up, and the dual on I was able to limp home. Next day tried to bale hay and the tractor kept overheating. Turns out the crank and water pump pulleys were worn forcing the v-belt to flip inside out and slip. So the tractor had to be split in front of the engine go have room to get the balancer pulley off.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/11932.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150903)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/11939.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150885)
Also in there was a spindle snapped off the gooseneck trailer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20190913_131326~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578150547)
A few flat tires.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/22129.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150917)
A forwarder axle rebuild.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20191117_145316~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578152393)
And probably a whole bunch of things I've forgot already.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on January 04, 2020, 07:11:49 AM
If my calendar and memory are correct, you should be headed home around mid-week?
Sitting between Bannermans island and Storm king waiting out the fog, as long as we are to the city for Tuesday I'm good. Rumor mill says it's going to be in Eastchester / Bronx which works out ok. Gf leaves for work 1hr before I get home, she's not dealing with tugboating very well. Wednesday morning may sound like Eric Church's "wrecking ball", I should send flowers and a card to the neighbors now.
Chevy, that's some carnage fo' sho'!
Barge, you sure are tough on relationships😊
Quote from: BargeMonkey on January 04, 2020, 11:06:38 AM
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on January 04, 2020, 07:11:49 AM
If my calendar and memory are correct, you should be headed home around mid-week?
Sitting between Bannermans island and Storm king waiting out the fog, as long as we are to the city for Tuesday I'm good. Rumor mill says it's going to be in Eastchester / Bronx which works out ok. Gf leaves for work 1hr before I get home, she's not dealing with tugboating very well. Wednesday morning may sound like Eric Church's "wrecking ball", I should send flowers and a card to the neighbors now.
I just checked the sat photo, looks like you may be there for a while, but there also might be a window if you can use it. There has been some lifting up here, but still pretty dank.
Sorry about the GF. The away/home time is just part of the job/paycheck and you can't change that. Maybe you should send flowers to the GF first? Just sayin'. :D
I gotta get back to the shop. Good Luck and glad to see my memory is still working pretty well.
Dang tahoe.. God bless ya.
Few months ago i scattered the damper plate on the petercar clutch out in NC. Did manage to get my load delivered and get back to base to pull trans and do a bunch of maintenance. Other than that pretty quiet here with the exception of an RV furnance i am all too tired of fixing.
My bobcat, dozer and forklift are all broken right now. And ive found that if i dont fix them, they dont break any other parts.. so thats working out pretty good.
Well I might as well add to this thread as well! First day back to the woods this fall and got to 4:00 pm before this happened...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0576.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578223451)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0577.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578223506)
<br(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0578.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578223537)
and what it looked like after bush repair(welding)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0582.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578223582)
What brand of forwarder is that, bushmechanic?
Quote from: mike_belben on January 03, 2020, 09:21:02 AM
Thanks gang. Where is the service/run switch located?
I havent had much work since thanksgiving eric, dont tease me with visions of fat pay checks! ;D
I need a driver Mike, if you make it up this way we could keep you pretty busy I guess. Give me a ring if you still have my number.
Quote from: barbender on January 05, 2020, 01:34:50 PM
What brand of forwarder is that, bushmechanic?
Sure looks like a 1010D in the yellow flavor.
My turn. Today's carnage occurred in front of about 60 impressionable teenagers. I was using the Kubota M7060 with the front end loader to remove soil from some parking lot islands in the teachers' parking lot. All was going well. The students were removing the soil and weeds that I could not get with the bucket in preparation for the compost we are going to add before we plant.
Anyway, as I was exiting Island #5 with a bucket full of sand and weeds driving over the curb (low, 1) a whoosh of air left the tire and the wheel immediately smashed into the sharp edge of the curb, substantially bending it. I couldn't remove the wheel where it was so I inched forward until I had a little room to work. We removed the wheel, went to the ag shop and began massaging the wheel back into a shape that resembled circular with a 10 lb hammer. Surprisingly, the wheel was not too difficult to reform but getting the tire back on the bead required a ratchet strap tourniquet and a lot of dish soap. Back in business within the hour.
I'm sure there will be more before the end of the week.
Quote from: bushmechanic on January 05, 2020, 06:42:30 AM
Well I might as well add to this thread as well! First day back to the woods this fall and got to 4:00 pm before this happened...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0576.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578223451)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0577.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578223506)
<br(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0578.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578223537)
and what it looked like after bush repair(welding)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0582.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578223582)
i put bearings in my 646 valmet a couple yrs ago. mine looked bigger than that and the nut was a lot bigger. i had a socket sort of. made to fit it it must weigh 15 lbs. then torque multiplier to 3\4 torque wrench set at 330. yet it seems there is always a slight amount of play in it even with a 1000 lb on it
Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on January 04, 2020, 10:30:40 AM
Forgot all about this thread even though I had my fair share of carnage this year.
Started the summer by have hydraulic issues with a tractor. It has a closed center load sensing system and it was getting "hung" in high pressure and going over relief all the time heating the oil to scorching levels within minutes of running. So had plumbed in gauges to pinpoint things.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20190930_181325.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578151103)
That was all well and good until my gauge was sticking out and the 3 point ripped the pressure pipe right off the valve block.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/17912.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150935)
Pulled out the combing valve (tractor uses two open center gear pumps in tandem) to find a broken spring keeper and other trash stuck in there.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20190721_170530~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1578150515)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/10775.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150538)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/9.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150948)
That resulted in pulling the pumps and locating the source of the trash which was a detent spring from the loader valve. So one new pump, new loader valve, bunch of new orings and backup seals, multiple system flushes and I was back in business.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/10330.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578150959)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/19458.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1578151743)
What kinda tractor was it?
About 1am, 2 winters ago now i lost a wheel hub while driving to work. Well, i was about 2 miles from the house and realized the spindle nut had stripped and very carefully got turned around. Idling back in low hole a few houses up the road it dump the hub, wrecked a new tire, the qtr fender etc. Calling for the tow before hand woulda been cheaper and smarter i guess.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0118190312.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1547803962)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0118190312b.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1547803961)
Life got in the way while i looked for a spindle and all that. ive just now cleaned out the shrapnel and grease, the shrunk out the races. realizing how bad the inner seal surface got machined.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0916200835_Film3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1600269815)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0916200844_Film3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1600269795)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0916200844a_Film3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1600269825)
Time to have lunch, flip the laundry and get that mess figured out.
Well, 2 sad events to post. International went to a beefier inner spindle shank with otherwise the same forge casting, and from a 205 to 207 series bearing on the inside wheel bearing so the new bearing race wont go in my hub. I brought an outer bearing to check the spindle at junkyards because the inner exploded.
Im waiting to hear back from timken if there is a bearing that will allow me to avoid boring my hub or turning my spindle down.. Neither of which i want to do. The cost of owning obsolete stuff.
Yesterday i had henry start the forktruck. Then i ran it and it sounded terrible.. I thought man its gotta be out of oil and turned the key off. It stayed running because i hadnt killed the fuel shutoff..and the sound went away... Because boy had the key stuck in the crank position and the bendix was running into the spinning flywheel. It started last night but not today. And wouldnt ya know it the hardened bendix gear ate the soft flywheel. Sure would be nicer to replace a bendix.
"Oh youre lucky to have all that equipment" is one of those phrases that makes me want to choke someone.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0920201315_Film3-1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1600649910)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0920201402_Film3-1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1600649710)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0920201423a_Film3-1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1600649687)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0920201402a_Film3-1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1600649683)
Long day in a bad position but i was able to lay the tooth faces back and chamfer all the boogered and smeared metal blocking the starter gear from meshing.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0920201548a_Film3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1600649760)
I also polished the starter gear ramps into a radius to help the gear rotate into position smoothly when plunging into the ring gear. Back up and running.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0920201628_Film3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1600649771)
Thanks again for the straps @rastis (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=42456)
Reminds me a bit of my activities a couple of days ago...we were camping out west, staying in a nice campground in Spearfish, SD. I had some front brake pads start wearing into the rotor on my Dodge, so I quick changed the side that was bad (the campsite rules forbade washing of RVs etc, so I figured I better boogie before someone e told me to stop😁). Got it apart and it had a cracked piston, so I had to get a caliper and switch that out. Then, I had a vibration that appeared about 65mph that was driving me nuts, so I pulled the front driveshaft off, it had a slightly loose U-joint (picture me carrying my driveshaft and throwing it in the back of my truck, as my neighbors looked on😁) Then I got to move on to the slide out on the camper, something was kicking a breaker and pulling tons of juice. We finally narrowed it to the slideout circuit. I didn't have time to trace down what I figure is a direct short somewhere in the wiring. First we tried the manual crank, we put our 9 year old boy on it and that broke too🤦♂️🤷♂️ So I cut the wires on the gearmotor, and hooked up jumper cables so we could run the slide that way. There are days...
Might I add that the 3rd generation on Dodge 4x4's have a horrible design on that front axle- no locking hubs or anything, they just spin the whole front driveline like an old 4x4 that you left the hubs locked in. It's pretty common for them to disintegrate a u-joint which then destroys the front case of the transfer case (it happened to me). I came from a 2nd gen Dodge, they had a 2 piece drive axle that unlocked, I assumed these were the same. I felt the vibration, and got down and looked my rear shaft over several times, it never occurred to me it was the front shaft. There is a lock out retrofit, but you have to change the entire hub assembly, about $2000.
Oh ive sung the dodge blues many a time. Can you put balljoint ford outers on those to delete the unit bearing and gain freespin hubs?
I let my front end fall apart then did it all at once. Ford knuckles, new big twin piston calipers, rotors, bearings, wheel joints, new xrf balljoints and deleted that terrible track bar balljoint by cutting and sleeving the bar and welding frame mounts for a regular tube bushing. I was putting trackbars in every year.
If 3rd gen has a tie rod end style joint on the driver side, have the wife rock the wheel and watch it. Thats the dodge deathwobble most wanted suspect right there. On OBS fords its the other end of the trackbar.
Quote from: mike_belben on September 20, 2020, 01:27:05 PM
Well, 2 sad events to post. International went to a beefier inner spindle shank with otherwise the same forge casting, and from a 205 to 207 series bearing on the inside wheel bearing so the new bearing race wont go in my hub. I brought an outer bearing to check the spindle at junkyards because the inner exploded.
Im waiting to hear back from timken if there is a bearing that will allow me to avoid boring my hub or turning my spindle down.. Neither of which i want to do. The cost of owning obsolete stuff.
Yesterday i had henry start the forktruck. Then i ran it and it sounded terrible.. I thought man its gotta be out of oil and turned the key off. It stayed running because i hadnt killed the fuel shutoff..and the sound went away... Because boy had the key stuck in the crank position and the bendix was running into the spinning flywheel. It started last night but not today. And wouldnt ya know it the hardened bendix gear ate the soft flywheel. Sure would be nicer to replace a bendix.
"Oh youre lucky to have all that equipment" is one of those phrases that makes me want to choke someone.
Hey Mike, just call elmer, he will have them fixed in no time! :D
I think this qualifies me for legal entry into this thread.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18028/20200922_145857.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1600820942)
How's that for a hole in a radiator? After hauling 6 or 7 loads of logs yesterday....I decided after the last one that I was going to change the right rear caliper....the old 87 international has hydraulic brakes. So after unloading it with the prentice, I circled the mill pulled to the front yard to turn around and pull up to my bay that I work out of...but when I braked to back up....there was none. So I smacked the Jin pole I use with the back hoe...very very fortunate that I was home an where the two inch rod entered it missed the fan and other engine parts. I found a hood, grill and radiator for $750.00. Went and picked it up and got two nice tires and rims for another $250.00. It won't leave the yard again until it has 4 new calipers on it. I already replaced one brake line and will give the others a hard look. Close call...my truck and trailer were just below that Jin pole. Tim
Ooof.. That did it.
If you had to poke a 2 inch rod through the radiator, that was the perfect place. Tim
Yeah, that probably won't buff out. Sorry man.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0778~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1601199592)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0779.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1601199612)
Good thing the boss did this and not me lol!
Thanks everyone for posting, lightens the day with shared painful experiences. No real pictures, didn't break anything, just putting back all the little stuff the mechanics left behind. So while I've been wrenching it wasn't, yet, carnage. Now I did have my son back over a 462 this summer, that would have qualified I guess. All my fault.
More planetary carmage...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25160/KIMG1032~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1601926192)
kiko that'll just buff out, right? ;D
Quote from: GRANITEstateMP on October 05, 2020, 07:21:29 PM
kiko that'll just buff out, right? ;D
I don't think so, more like JB weld. Right?
I think it will buff out . Probably gonna take about 270 Benjamins to buff it to shiny new.
Well I had a seal leak in the front diff of my C3 Tree Farmer so today I figured I'd check it out. Good thing I did as it was more than a leak... a couple of bearing failures!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0790.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1602363002)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20965/KIMG0794.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1602362973)
Been a summer of lots of minor inconveniences.
Hay rake frame broke in two.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/1596126620300.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1602377715)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20200730_135306.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1602378218)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20200730_144140.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1602378139)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/1596138094630.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1602377697)
Head gasket in the skid steer
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20200918_181519.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1602377684)
Somebody's old weld in the chain case of the skid steer cracked.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/44586.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1602377835)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/44903.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1602377873)
Broke another axle in the GMC 2.5 ton axle. So its gutted and running as an empty housing now.
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Destroyed slip clutch in the batwing mower.
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Thats just the junk I remember and have some pictures of. Lol
What kinda skid steer.. I dont recognize that frame layout at all.
What is the deuce axle in?
Gehl 7800 skid steer. Axle is under a ford 5000 tractor.
I have been looking at those big gehls, how do you like it and how many hours you put on? Has it been reliable? Perkapillar or cummins? Parts off the shelf or proprietary?
Im looking to replace my 742 and want a bigger diesel machine with a longer wheelbase. Have run LS170 but i dont love the slop that comes in linkage booms. But the low COG on those gehls and side view looks really good. Seems like plenty of room for big grousers. And the removable axle housings is nice too.
Has a 105hp Yanmar. 3k hours and just had to to a head gasket. Other than that its been good. Working on it is much easier than the bobcats and NHs that I've worked on. To run tracks it has 2" wheel spacers making it 7'4" wide. It's long in the backend, and weights nearly 12k lbs with tracks on. Even with tracks she doesn't like soft ground at all.. The vertical lift is wonderful but all the linkage does give you some inherent slop.
Parts other than the Yanmar are proprietary but availability is good and prices aren't too bad.
If you have lots of open space and hard ground they are awesome as it'll lift more than you can imagine. Tight spaces and soft ground you will cuss.
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Is it a mechanical diesel or computerized with egr and def and all that?
Mechanical, 12v is all she needs to run. Stay away from the perkins they were plagued with problems in the newer 10 series.
Thanks for the info, good stuff.
Do the tracks get you out of trouble or just lure you into it?
Lure you into trouble. Haha they are better than tires for sure. But a lighter machine like my buddies NH LS180 will run circles around my Gehl in soft ground.
Wow that bad huh? really puts perspective on it. A 180 is no featherweight!
Theres a 980 bobcat with planetary hubs complete and running for sale nearby [rare anymore] and i look at it and think imagine what it could load and dig up.. But its 15k# and super wide with a short wheelbase, maybe even square. Reality bites me and says imagine how bad it can bury itself. 15k is a loaded service truck or daycab tractor. Itll make a pigpen out of any site.
His LS180 with tracks and bucket scaled out at just over 8k lbs i think, my 7800 with tracks and grapple bucket is 12,600 lbs. That is a lot of weight with not a ton more track area on the ground. Also hard to move as its too heavy and wide for most tandem "car style" trailers. So a deckover is a must.
Quote from: BargeMonkey on January 04, 2020, 11:06:38 AM
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on January 04, 2020, 07:11:49 AM
If my calendar and memory are correct, you should be headed home around mid-week?
Sitting between Bannermans island and Storm king waiting out the fog, as long as we are to the city for Tuesday I'm good. Rumor mill says it's going to be in Eastchester / Bronx which works out ok. Gf leaves for work 1hr before I get home, she's not dealing with tugboating very well. Wednesday morning may sound like Eric Church's "wrecking ball", I should send flowers and a card to the neighbors now.
The mouth of moodna creek is opposite Bannermans, between Plum point and Cornwall landing. You where close [ to me]
I have some rocks that I could use that to haul them away up into the bog!!! All I can do now is roll them.
Hey southside...
You reckon i got all the squeel outta that one yet? ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/1017201711_Film3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1602982429)
Bead of the rim was shot from foam keeping the water in. Even with tons of grinding it leaked like a screen door. DAP weldwood contact cement. Perfect seal.
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Swing the engine at 0930,
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She was running about 4.
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Needs a couple minor things, put the rest of the panels on, wanted to get it off that hill before the snow came back. 2.45yd, should bail some dirt, thumb is like brand new.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/20201105_101643.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1604626310)
should be home monday, throw it in the pit.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/20201105_164524.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1604625784)
Nicely done. Fast too!
My 01 F250 4x4. It was my grandfathers last truck and mostly sat parked in massachusetts. I got it at 87k miles, completely rotted. What a shame. Every brake caliper on it has hung up and turned the rotor red. Never happens at a good time and always messes up your day.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/1108201236a_Film3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1604927797)
These stupid phenolic pistons love to collect grime inside the bore and then refuse to retract. If you catch it soon enough you can pop them out with air into a 2x4, sand them up and reinstall [minus the dust seal because it will never go back on right] and get some more time out of it. If they get hot enough they shatter the piston and get stuck on the axle.
Theyre about $100 each and you must bring the bracket with your core because ford used so many different calipers.. Sold with new slide bracket. If any if you have one of these trucks and are suddenly slowing down fast, smelling brakes and getting bad mileage, feel your rims. The hot one is hanging.
I wont have another one of these 5.4 triton trucks.
My Ford F350 has done the same, mine have all been done in the last 3 years. Still goes though.
My 05 GMC did it too :(.
I love disc brakes, but being in New England, salt, brine, rust really kills calipers quick. Still rather put on a new caliper than play with rotten backing plates and shoes that's never fun!
We had a large wo roll over on a 462 as it turned out to be rotten and rolled during bucking. Morale: keep other saws away from logs when bucking in dark :(. Broke a few fins, handle is not good. Have another top end might switch it up one day.
Thats a bummer wyatt. It didnt take me long to realize there is no easy money waiting out in the woods. Some days lucky to break even after deducting whatcha just plain broke.
I might need some new wheel bearings for the wood splitter soon....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21065/SplitterBrng.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1605657171)
gg
Spherical bearing gave up the ghost on the lift cylinder of the forwarder-
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11286/20201112_115103.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1605678589)
I started to use my excavator for a trial run in the quarry, she hasn't worked much the last 2 years. i always noticed the turn table drop some grease, but it was just some drops. but after 3hours of work i was shocked by seeing the amount it squirted out. the machine is 20years old and has 8200h. the seal has hardened over the time and has broke of at one point.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37555/IMG_20201226_124510.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1609158656)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37555/IMG_20201226_124518.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1609158579)
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It's a slewing bearing with balls inside. today i will measure it's play, have done it 2 years ago and it was ok.
does anybody have experience with excavators? maybe @kiko (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=15160) , @bushmechanic (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=10965) ??
There is a sump that encloses the ring gear and the pinion off the swing motor.
It's probably full of something like water or the gear oil from the gearbox on your swing motor.
Get under the machine and pull the drain plug for that sump and see what comes out.
Water leaks in from where the swing motor bolts in.
If it's gear oil the seal for the pinion shaft on the swing motor is leaking.
If it's hydraulic oil you have more seal problems in the swing motor.
Check the gear oil in the swing motor, if it's empty you might just need the seal.
The pinion seal is easy to change.
Pull the swing motor and remove the seal cover around the pinion shaft and put the new seal in it and reassemble.
These seals are overpriced at the dealer.
It's best to pull it apart and measure for the seal and get the all rubber coated ones.
I agree with above. But think the seal is progressive damage. It has been over greased or there is liquid , water or oil that has increased the volume and forced the grease out bast the seal.
I think i have figured it out, after talking to a excavator mechanic friend back in Switzerland and some internet research
the swing motor is fine, no leaking oil.
the big pinion and gear is also perfect, nice clean grease. (they're emerged in a grease bath, like 36liters)
the 93 rollers (actually balls) have 3 grease nipples around de slewing ring at 120degrees each. (books says, grease every 250h) they have been overgreased (my fault) and the seal has gone bad over the years.
Play is 1mm which is totally in the normal range.
the excavator should be fine for work, but will continue to drop grease. when the grease stops then i put a little more in, just a small layer of grease on the balls should be ok.
the seal can be changed as is, but i'm sure it's no fun.
seal is 210$ OEM in Miami, which i find very overpriced. or 10-30$ AM in china, korea,....
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So its been a while since I posted anything. I thought this would fit in.
Its my Arbro1000. I initially took it apart to replace the all the sliding brass wear parts within the machine. That was a good 1000$. Once I got it apart, I realized that the entire top section of the delimbing head was in very battered condition. So off to a reputable fabrication shop who rebuilt it for me, top to bottom. Its like new now, 1500$ in fabrication later.
So I get that top section back and put the machine all together. Last part to go in is the new big 92MM adjustment nut (400$) in the pictures you see here. The old nut was in really bad shape by the time I got it out. Thinking this was it, I quickly realized that the new nut will not thread in to the frame! The manufacturer cant even get me a replacement insert with the internal threads on it. So after many hours of grinding and cutting, removing the entire top plate and continuing to grind out the old insert, I can finally see a small crack developing where the insert goes through the frame. This is shown in my third image.
I'm really hoping that a machine shop will be able to make me a new insert ($$$), with my internal metric, 92MM thread that I can have a fabricator come and weld it back in for me. More $$$. I can weld but not good enough that I can sleep well knowing I had a good penetration between these layers.
Stress-full [I have typed a profane word that is automatically changed by the forum censored words program I should know better] man. Iv spent so much on this that It really has to work out. This machine is 69K new and I can't replace it. I'm in way to far now to stop either. I really need something to work out for me soon. This machine has been down since mid November waiting on these parts and repairs. Given the ridiculously low amount I'm getting now for stud wood, its going to take me a few loads just to pay for this one.
Thanks for watching!
Thats a tough one. Youre doing good work, keep at it man.
My mechanics like your serious.... 🤷♂️ lets get the parts, tools, load up the sleds and in we go 😆... that new 800 Assault will take a man right off the bars...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/20210122_144820.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1611368692)
Quote from: BargeMonkey on January 22, 2021, 09:28:22 PM
My mechanics like your serious.... 🤷♂️ lets get the parts, tools, load up the sleds and in we go 😆... that new 800 Assault will take a man right off the bars...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/20210122_144820.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1611368692)
800 assualt i have one it is a weapon fairly quick
there is always something to fix. couple weeks back the hydraulic pump in the rottne gave up. found a good used pump. take the old 1 out and the spline is bad on the gear box. out comes the gear box. needs 1 shaft bearings. some of it is coming from sweden. 6.0 ford in 1 of the f550's. low power then will not start no codes. scaned it low high pressure oil. 250 lbs takes at least 500 to start. changed the standpipes and dummy plugs air tested it. ran a jumper to the ipr valve while air testing. no leaks. left the jumper on spliced that inti the harness. and it started runs like a new one. so did putting 12 v to the ipr free it maybe. normally it only uses a volt or 2 or the new used connector?
Skid steer started pushing coolant about 100 hours back. Quick tossed a head gasket in and it ran like a top for 100 hours until it started pushing coolant again. So head is at the machine shop getting magnifluxed, pressure tested, rebuilt, etc. Started prepping the block and found a .002 to .003 depression right at the edge of 2 of the liners. This little Yanmar ran like a sewing machine quiet as can be and had great oil pressure. But things just got a whole lot more expensive.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20210108_171412.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1611443173)
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How many hrs total are on the motor. You will have a like new machine when you get everything together 👍
Yeah very little glycol is required to destroy oil. Sucks man.
3200 hours on it now I think. Motor will be brand new when its all done. Rubber bits in the drive hub on the back of the motor is hanging out so that will get replaced. Scooped 50lbs of "debris" out of the belly pan. Before it goes back together ill drag it outside and powerwash the machine out as best I can for the middle of winter.
Not upset about it at all other than the fact I have a few step decks to load with hay that ill have to do with the tractor loader instead (which takes nearly double the time).
Not my picture, not my machine, and I wouldnt want to be this guy... @Skeans1 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37446) whats a new cab cost for a fancy harvester ? 100 installed ? 🤷♂️
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/141727520_3705473209539787_4267599903234388493_o.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1611449005)
Didnt take any pics but drove 205 miles round trip and sawzalled the snot out of a cab chassis van today to pull a ford 460/C6 for my dumptruck build.
Quote from: mike_belben on January 23, 2021, 10:41:53 PM
Didnt take any pics but drove 205 miles round trip and sawzalled the snot out of a cab chassis van today to pull a ford 460/C6 for my dumptruck build.
Get some pictures next time 👍
Mike, I'd like to see where you sawsalled and your logic in choosing those particular points.
Well its a van so the engine has to come straight out the front, very little room for lifting with carb on. I sawzalled the nose from top of grill to bottom of bumper between the frame rails. Cut the floor pretty thoroughly then exhaust. Unbolted starter/alt/PS pump, jacked it up, took out trans xmember, and rigged up 2x4s under the motor mounts like skis so it could be pulled straight forward. Then hooked a cable basket to the forks and a choker off the tailhousing to lift it out and onto a pallet.
Was there Noon to 5ish taking my time. I also got side mirrors, driveshafts and carrier, radiator, trans and oil coolers, brake master and booster, ignition module, etc. He wanted $400, i gave $550 and feel i did pretty dang good. People want $1000 to $1300 for junkyard 460/c6 lately. Took a few weeks to find this.
Quote from: BargeMonkey on January 23, 2021, 07:54:27 PM
Not my picture, not my machine, and I wouldnt want to be this guy... @Skeans1 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37446) whats a new cab cost for a fancy harvester ? 100 installed ? 🤷♂️
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/141727520_3705473209539787_4267599903234388493_o.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1611449005)
That one's a little hard to figure out. Did he cut it with the head not fully gripping the log? Or did he release the head with the log leaning back towards the machine? It doesn't take long for a tree to fall the wrong way. I remember the man who sold me my Valmet asking "Have you dropped a tee onto the cab yet?" soon after I started using it. The answer was "No, but I did have a few limbs brush the window on the way down".
Looks like they cut it with chainsaw and was using the harvester to push it. Got the power line too...
:laugh:
Thats a whole new insurance premium class right there yall.
Quote from: BargeMonkey on January 23, 2021, 07:54:27 PM
Not my picture, not my machine, and I wouldnt want to be this guy... @Skeans1 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37446) whats a new cab cost for a fancy harvester ? 100 installed ? 🤷♂️
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/141727520_3705473209539787_4267599903234388493_o.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1611449005)
Cab looks ok but never know and sure wouldn't want to find out either a dangle head doesn't make a great pusher another good reason to look into a shovel.
Took me 2 trees on the cab before I learned how to push trees with a dangle head. When you have to push against a heavy lean or away from an object (power lines in my case) it was best to have the machine in a straight line with the direction you want to push. Face cut in the front, saw mostly thru the holding wood, feed the head 20' up the tree and then push/drive forward.
One of the last jobs I cut was thinning about 2 miles of trees along a high voltage power line. Made for a lot of jockeying around to push trees away from where they wanted to go.
I honestly didn't have the amount of Timbco seat time I should have when I bid that job down to the dam yrs ago, part of it was cutting along the road, high voltage stuff on the other side, they would shut the road off for a couple trees at a time and wouldn't let me cut during school bus hours. I made it happen 😆 I did join the big blue flash club the job prior to that, actually was working along the road and the one neighbor stops, ask if i was an employee for the "firewood king", 😆 i explained i was not... about 4hrs later i go to jack a LARGE HM, now i know better, screaming NO NO NO in the cab like a little girl as I smoke the power to this neighbors house and like 6 others 🤷♂️ right about dinner time....
😂😂😂 The slow agony of watching a tree go the wrong way😬 I dropped one on the harvester cab once, a tall slender spruce. I wasn't paying close attention, but when I cut the tree and pulled the butt away from the stump I could feel it coming back (this was after dark) typically just feed the butt into the ground and then push the stem away from yourself. I went to do that, I hadn't realized that my chain had hit something and cut crooked, making the bar hang up extended out. On Ponsse harvesters, if your bar isn't "home", the feed rollers won't move (to keep you from mangling your bar) well in this case it kept me from getting that butt into the ground on time, so I got a big BAM! on top of the cab😬 Thankfully it wasn't anywhere near the size of that cab flattener oak.
Quote from: BargeMonkey on January 22, 2021, 09:28:22 PM
My mechanics like your serious.... 🤷♂️ lets get the parts, tools, load up the sleds and in we go 😆... that new 800 Assault will take a man right off the bars...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34634/20210122_144820.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1611368692)
Never ever did I ever imagine I could wheelie a sled...
Till I did.
And did again and again and again
I'm hooked. Too much crazy stupid fun, but I mean --- come on!!! They are begging to be stood up
Quote from: BargeMonkey on January 25, 2021, 10:02:26 PM
I honestly didn't have the amount of Timbco seat time I should have when I bid that job down to the dam yrs ago, part of it was cutting along the road, high voltage stuff on the other side, they would shut the road off for a couple trees at a time and wouldn't let me cut during school bus hours. I made it happen 😆 I did join the big blue flash club the job prior to that, actually was working along the road and the one neighbor stops, ask if i was an employee for the "firewood king", 😆 i explained i was not... about 4hrs later i go to jack a LARGE HM, now i know better, screaming NO NO NO in the cab like a little girl as I smoke the power to this neighbors house and like 6 others 🤷♂️ right about dinner time....
Sorry man, but that's dang funny
You shoulda walked over and told him you were just kidding. Take the family out to the sizzler on firewood king's tab tonight!
My first climbing job was of necessity.. I had a row of 50 to 70ft pines in a 10ft wide alley between fence and my garage. They were on a hill that was washing away and completely rootbare and i was broke. I stripped the middle into a spar and rigged the others down off it then took it down but there was one left in the corner out of reach id have to do conventionally.
I didnt trust the tree as its own rigging. I was about maybe 40 feet up and decided to let it fly.. My aim was pretty remarkable thus far. we were roping and wedging the top to go right but it wanted left and a gust helped it. It lifted, broke hinge and corkscrewed counterclockwise, still vertical on the stem about to step into the harness and crush me. I dive right and it shoots straight down where i was onto the garage.
No sparks but i was a little red in the cheeks.
Hi Guys,
Long time lurker here. I enjoy reading and appreciate all the information you all share. Thanks. We have a old dairy farm and large woodlot in Western Mass. Past few years tearing down the old buildings (all too far gone) so we can start new. Will be logging some maple and cherry to use in building the house.
I have a 1960 JD 440 dozer with a hydraulic winch I use in the woods. Not fast at all but it does get the job done if your patient. The below pics are more of a "did something stupid" than a carnage thing. They were actually taken about 10 years ago when cleaning up after a flood. You know how it goes...just another couple passes and I'll stop...well that did not work out. Probably a cord of split wood was lost getting the dozer out. Jack blade, lift dozer, push cordwood under, walk tracks to pull under...repeat, repeat, repeat. Had about 5 lengths of chain to a come along and a distant tree. Eventually it came out without having to get another machine on site. Thought you all might enjoy my stupidity:)
Jack Hayden
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57370/440_Stuck_2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1611162781)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57370/440_Stuck_1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1611162781)
Welcome aboard Jack. Recovering western masshole here.
Ive got a reluctant mini pond in my yard from the dozer finding the wet spot too. And i planted a cord or so one time for the forklift after it played divining rod one day. Never gets old.
All in good fun right? You know you done good when the fluid is all tilted to one side and you cant move anymore!
;D
Welcome to the Forum. Wow! Did you get stuck 😂
Thanks for the welcome guys. Yes. All that comes out without injuries is all good:)
Mike I've read your posts on adventures with local bureaucrats...unfortunate. Sad that west mass lost someone with your talents.
Jack
On to greener pastures my friend.
So i finally get time to get back to my beloved piece of cursed junk bobcat. It was running fine when parked then next day no start, no spark.
Wracked my brain, couldnt find the bad component but couldnt get spark. Like a week of trying. Oh look, that almost new genuine lucas breaker plate is not closing. So it cant break. Hm. Oh and its got hot glue holding the leaf spring to the post.. What the china is this baloney? Well im not getting another of those so i bought an intermotor brand. Looks good, put it in. No spark. Try a few condensors, nope. Coil measures good but try a few more nope. Borrow a known good coil, nope. New wires and plugs, nope. Got jumper wires direct from batt to coil.. Nothing. Fun right? Just what i need.
Today discover that the leaf spring on this one is isolating when it breaks the points but the terminal has full continuity at all times and so does the wire. The wire needa to be switching 4x per revolution and it isnt. Okay so i get some isolators and fiber washers and get spark.. Walla!
Check oil.. FULL of water. Pull the plug and go to town for a filter and oil, race home for kids who are finally back to school for now. Change the filter, fill it up.. Roll engine over with a wrench and theres a funny rapping. Pull valvecover.. #3exh valve is bent and hanging up. Its running on 3 holes and atleast finally out of the way of the container ive been needing to move for weeks.
I need a dirty insurance agent so i can burn this #&%$*!@ thing.
Cleared up long enough to use my handy dandy spindle remover.
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That's a Binder spindle cover. Where did you get those from? I have 4 of those complete (well, they were) trucks. That's why I know.
Never mind, I got all exited. I see it's just a wheel.
Looks like a torsion axle?
My turn!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19153/vrimontcata.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612133690)
Satamax, my doors on my dump trailer and I also have a strained relationship 😂
Dexter torflex i ejected at speed. Wiped out the spindles. Time to engage my poor people ways.
Max i dunno what that is but i sense its metallic and heavy so i like it already.
Quote from: mike_belben on January 31, 2021, 07:26:01 PM
Dexter torflex i ejected at speed. Wiped out the spindles. Time to engage my poor people ways.
Max i dunno what that is but i sense its metallic and heavy so i like it already.
Well, leftovers from a pair of ski plans, which were too ugly and never installed. I need to recover the second one on a friend's land. I might cut those, into straight lengths, to fill with concrete and make weights for the back of the snowplow. These in the photo weight may be 800 kilos! I recovered the square transverse beam for the winch subframe. Beam is 8x6" approximately, 10mm thick, 3/8" or thereabouts. If left open, or if i make a little door, i will have storage space in there! :D
The only thing we measure in kilos will get a man a lot of trouble.
Quote from: mike_belben on January 31, 2021, 10:05:52 PM
The only thing we measure in kilos will get a man a lot of trouble.
😆..... mm / cm im still lost but converting grams to oz... 😆....
By the way guys.
You know that even your measurements are "metric" ? ;D
Is America Actually Metric? - YouTube (https://youtu.be/SmSJXC6_qQ8)
And here I thought metric was actually Engrish !!! (I spelled English that way on PURPOSE) 8)
Angry'ish? ;D
🤣 maaayybe 🤷♂️ 🤫 😜
Quote from: Tacotodd on February 01, 2021, 06:14:50 AM
🤣 maaayybe 🤷♂️ 🤫 😜
Well, remember i'm French. I've been speaking english since 79, but i don't have all the bells and whistles to understand all humour. Plus, i'm thick as a plank! ;D
Quote from: Kim_Ked on January 21, 2021, 07:53:56 AM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/62020/IMG_0918_-_Copy.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1611232757)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/62020/IMG_0919_-_Copy~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1611232758)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/62020/IMG_0928.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1611232663)
So its been a while since I posted anything. I thought this would fit in.
Its my Arbro1000. I initially took it apart to replace the all the sliding brass wear parts within the machine. That was a good 1000$. Once I got it apart, I realized that the entire top section of the delimbing head was in very battered condition. So off to a reputable fabrication shop who rebuilt it for me, top to bottom. Its like new now, 1500$ in fabrication later.
So I get that top section back and put the machine all together. Last part to go in is the new big 92MM adjustment nut (400$) in the pictures you see here. The old nut was in really bad shape by the time I got it out. Thinking this was it, I quickly realized that the new nut will not thread in to the frame! The manufacturer cant even get me a replacement insert with the internal threads on it. So after many hours of grinding and cutting, removing the entire top plate and continuing to grind out the old insert, I can finally see a small crack developing where the insert goes through the frame. This is shown in my third image.
I'm really hoping that a machine shop will be able to make me a new insert ($$$), with my internal metric, 92MM thread that I can have a fabricator come and weld it back in for me. More $$$. I can weld but not good enough that I can sleep well knowing I had a good penetration between these layers.
Stress-full [I have typed a profane word that is automatically changed by the forum censored words program I should know better] man. Iv spent so much on this that It really has to work out. This machine is 69K new and I can't replace it. I'm in way to far now to stop either. I really need something to work out for me soon. This machine has been down since mid November waiting on these parts and repairs. Given the ridiculously low amount I'm getting now for stud wood, its going to take me a few loads just to pay for this one.
Thanks for watching!
So its finally fixed.
After a lot of grinding, an expensive machine shop trip, an onsite mobile fabricator to weld it all back together for me and one late night under the lights, its ready to run! Iv had the parts now for a few days that I had been waiting for, but the poorest weather conditions to try to work on something outside lately. Yesterday it was like a spring day here so I took advantage and put this beast back in service.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/62020/IMG_0936~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1612438308)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/62020/IMG_0997.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1612438016)
Does this qualify for this thread?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59254/59B5F167-3F54-43BC-AC7A-E59B724BE99D.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1612461751)
This is one of the dryer spots on this job (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59254/088341E6-EB44-43C1-8A03-BE30FFFE80DF.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1612461785)
Yup, I think she's stuck! Just don't make it worse and break something getting it out. It will only be EXPENSIVE!
How many drivers that that rig have? :o
Quote from: Tacotodd on February 04, 2021, 02:08:28 PM
Yup, I think she's stuck! Just don't make it worse and break something getting it out. It will only be EXPENSIVE!
He got stuck right in front of where I was clearing trees. The grading crew was digging erosion control ponds and hauling to a stockpile. I just put the clearing rake in the bed and pushed him out with the excavator.
Only got one side of the skid steer quick attach into the bucket today and didn't know it, curled back and bounced it and when I got out to push the latches down she was twisted like a pretzel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/45982.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1612490314)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/45988.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1612490315)
And to get creative with a jack and a tractor to make a "press". Ha
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/45997.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1612490318)
Straightened up and reinforced.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/46019.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1612490322)
Back into action before the weather got too bad.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/46057.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1612490322)
Friendly fyi.. A scrap of round pipe between the ears will stop that from every happening again. Very high torsional resistance. Diameter much more important than wall thickness as long as its not so thin itll dent.
Thats what went in there 3.5" tube 3/8" wall thickness. Added some more structure since this picture. Ran our of daylight and rushed to get it on and the 10" of snow plowed before it was pitch black.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/46047.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1612502127)
Quote from: thecfarm on February 04, 2021, 06:01:54 PM
How many drivers that that rig have? :o
I think they are all 6X6, so all wheels drive (or not)
One of the stud bolts on Big Bob's starter broke off.
What is the best way to remove it?
Weld a bolt on it ?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Bruno
A bigger size nut put over the broken bolt and weld the inside of the nut to the bolt. Hope it's not broke a ways in then you'll have to drill it and use an ez-out.
soak the ever loving.... out of it with a good penetrating oil before you do anything.
Then soak it some more.
Then when you walk past it soak it again.
Ya left out the two most important words. BLUE CREEPER
Quote from: thecfarm on February 04, 2021, 06:01:54 PM
How many drivers that that rig have? :o
If you're talking about drive wheels, it's 6 wheel drive. But with a loaded weight of around 110,000 pounds it will find a soft spot and go to the bottom.
Is it snapped flush or below surface?
Is it threaded into steel or aluminum?
Quote from: Bruno of NH on February 05, 2021, 08:58:47 AM
One of the stud bolts on Big Bob's starter broke off.
What is the best way to remove it?
Weld a bolt on it ?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Bruno
After soaking. Some more! :D Do you have some room. Sometimes buying an anti clockwise drill bit is not too daft. Since we all have cordless drills, you can drill in reverse with one. And if it catches in the stud, it unscrews it. Otherwise, you can still use an EZ out.
If you weld a nut,and it doesn't come out, you usually can't drill in the weld.
You can also make a centering bolt, to drill perfectly in the center. If you have a lathe or a drill press.
Thursday we got about 4" of fresh snow that wrapped up in the morning. With the temperature still relatively warm I went out over lunchtime to clean up the driveway and the walk. It all went well and when I checked the time I had 5 minutes to put away the machine and log into my next meeting. I aimed it at the garage and made it about 2 feet in that direction before things came to a halt. At first I thought I had lost traction since there is plenty of ice under the snow. Not so lucky, a look at the ground showed hydraulic fluid staining the snow.
By the time my meeting was done and I jacked up the rear of the machine the dripping was almost done making it tough to find the source. I took off of the battery, seat and seat supports before it got any colder. I was hoping the leak would be obvious but so far it is not, I still need to get a look at the lines to the front drive motors. We're now in a stretch of below zero cold for the better part of a week. The only good news is that there is no more snow in the forecast and the breakdown didn't happen when I was across the street scooping out the fire hydrant.
I've been pretty lucky with hydraulics until now so hopefully I can find the problem once I'm able to work outside for more than 5 minutes without loosing feeling in my hands. I'm hoping to figure out the repair before refilling the reservoir but if I can't find the leak I may have to put some fluid back in and see where it comes out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/CL340breakdown1_nr_020521.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612671205)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/CL340breakdown2_nr_020521.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612671469)
Most of December was spent rebuilding the interior of the FAE head. A folded, worn out cover plate holding up the chain curtain on the right corner was my tattletale. Further inspection while on the job showed a badly banged up chain curtain mount, worn out intake edge packed with dirt and worn counter combs. Immediate shop time after that little job was completed.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/Lam.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1612734793)
In order to access the interior, the rotor had to be pulled out. Well over 32 feet of weld to be removed for the old, worn out intake counter combs. This really makes me appreciate my plasma cutter and the tire bar/slide hammer tool for making fast work of removal of these 19 pieces. The unit above the black chisel is a new comb next to the old one on the right. At first, I thought only the intake edge combs were bad until the new parts arrived - then I knew that all of them needed replacement.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/rebuildFAEinterior.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612658579)
My intake edge was completely gone in 2 different areas. Those holes packed with mud and debris should be a steel edge. That yellow tire bead breaker is a slide hammer. That's the best *DanG chisel for weld removal. About $50 delivered from Ebay. The tip is harder than I expected and it made much, much faster work of the weld removal compared to a small sledge and cold chisel. The chain curtain holder was also bent to crap and destroyed. I had to manufacture a new one so that was built up a lot tougher than the original. Again, the plasma cutter made much faster work of that with a pattern rather than trying to cut out nearly 90 slotted holes on the vertical milling machine.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/rebuildFAEinterior2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612658420)
New counter combs installed. New hardened intake edge (cracked steel portion) welded and formed into place with chromium clad HR steel. This will likely last well over the 10k hour mark with this new intake. New, heavier cover plate from an old wear strip with hard facing and a new chain curtain holder built for punishment. I think the chain curtain took somewhere around 85+ feet of 3/8 chains. I also run a rubber curtain behind that to contain my rear discharges.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/rebuiltintake.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659310)
After balancing the rotor I put it back work. Smaller, finer product on first pass and fewer large chunks discharged most of the time. That went well for the first 2 jobs and then the stinky mud hit the fan on the 3rd job. Here was a view on some shooting lanes for a hunting property on the first job back to work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/shootinglane.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612735409)
Most of January has been a well framed dung masterpiece as well as December was. About 3 hours from finishing up a job at a remote location, something went wrong and I could not back up my left track. Better to inspect than try to force something - major expletives at high volumes - my inner track frame wear bar was caught by a sharpened track pad and numerous 6"-12" pieces of wear bar are laying on the ground and on the track frame. I can only move forward, slowly, so I put it back on the truck and take it to the shop. Time to pull the track frames, again. 4th time in 4 years if my count is right? Maybe 5 times? I'm getting way too good at it.
Hydraulic tank drained and frames pulled to get started.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/notracks.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659052)
There is roughly 50"+ of liner plate missing at the bottom of this left side track frame.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/missinglefttrack.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659053)
I already knew the right frame track mount bushing had over 12" of cracked weld that needed repair. I brought that into the shop and got the bushing cracks repaired along with numerous other cracks on the lower frame spreader bars. Vee it out with the plasma, preheat and weld base with 7018 rods and then LA100 wire outer weld with the mig. The left side was done a couple years ago and is still crack free. Added seal protection ring after this photo was taken. Factory seals get crushed within 100-200 hours from debris without my change in design.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/righttrackbushing.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659052)
Every white arrow is a stress crack or a missing link on the bottom of the track frame. The front tie plate was completely missing. Everything was cut out and rebuilt back up. I started to just replace those pieces that were cracked on both sides with wider material and some were also capped with a longer tie piece to strengthen the frame. Lots of stress cracking on these frames as almost every single tie was cracked in at least 1 or more places.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/trackframecracks.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659053)
New piece of hardened wear plate installed on left frame, rollers rotated, cracks fixed, some strengthening done on frame parts. New remote grease lines for both frames. Final cap weld with hardfacing wire filled in the 2 diagonal weld gaps and then it was ground down smooth.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/rebuiltleftframe.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659054)
Still waiting on 4 new 6000 psi hoses, 2 new 5000 psi hoses and 4 giant seals that run close to $100 each. Hoses were showing some degradation and they can NOT be changed out in the field without partial removal of track frames - better to spend it up front and do it while I can. I'm still not sure if I will put the old hydraulic oil back in or use another barrel of new oil. New set of pads and SALT rails waiting in the yard.
Mulching - likely the most abusive work for any piece of equipment. The only thing that I can thing of much worse would be an asphalt mill but then those never digest huge unseen chunks in the blink of an eye. If you can't fix it yourself, you won't ever make it in the mulching business. Almost every day is a new repair.
Chris Wilson in Nashville can get you in a new PrimeTech 😂
Quote from: treemuncher on February 07, 2021, 05:40:57 PM
Most of January has been a well framed dung masterpiece as well as December was. About 3 hours from finishing up a job at a remote location, something went wrong and I could not back up my left track. Better to inspect than try to force something - major expletives at high volumes - my inner track frame wear bar was caught by a sharpened track pad and numerous 6"-12" pieces of wear bar are laying on the ground and on the track frame. I can only move forward, slowly, so I put it back on the truck and take it to the shop. Time to pull the track frames, again. 4th time in 4 years if my count is right? Maybe 5 times? I'm getting way too good at it.
Hydraulic tank drained and frames pulled to get started.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/notracks.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659052)
There is roughly 50"+ of liner plate missing at the bottom of this left side track frame.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/missinglefttrack.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659053)
I already knew the right frame track mount bushing had over 12" of cracked weld that needed repair. I brought that into the shop and got the bushing cracks repaired along with numerous other cracks on the lower frame spreader bars. Vee it out with the plasma, preheat and weld base with 7018 rods and then LA100 wire outer weld with the mig. The left side was done a couple years ago and is still crack free. Added seal protection ring after this photo was taken. Factory seals get crushed within 100-200 hours from debris without my change in design.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/righttrackbushing.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659052)
Every white arrow is a stress crack or a missing link on the bottom of the track frame. The front tie plate was completely missing. Everything was cut out and rebuilt back up. I started to just replace those pieces that were cracked on both sides with wider material and some were also capped with a longer tie piece to strengthen the frame. Lots of stress cracking on these frames as almost every single tie was cracked in at least 1 or more places.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/trackframecracks.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659053)
New piece of hardened wear plate installed on left frame, rollers rotated, cracks fixed, some strengthening done on frame parts. New remote grease lines for both frames. Final cap weld with hardfacing wire filled in the 2 diagonal weld gaps and then it was ground down smooth.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/rebuiltleftframe.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612659054)
Still waiting on 4 new 6000 psi hoses, 2 new 5000 psi hoses and 4 giant seals that run close to $100 each. Hoses were showing some degradation and they can NOT be changed out in the field without partial removal of track frames - better to spend it up front and do it while I can. I'm still not sure if I will put the old hydraulic oil back in or use another barrel of new oil. New set of pads and SALT rails waiting in the yard.
Mulching - likely the most abusive work for any piece of equipment. The only thing that I can thing of much worse would be an asphalt mill but then those never digest huge unseen chunks in the blink of an eye. If you can't fix it yourself, you won't ever make it in the mulching business. Almost every day is a new repair.
Nice Work 👍. A friend of mine bought two of these. This one and another one. He said the new sonic head works awesome
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59695/FC6DABE2-1E0B-43CE-8BFF-437461DAEBA5.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1612926040)
The new sonic head works with the machines electronics and acts like a six speed transmission and increases efficiency 25-30 percent. I'm looking at a head for my machine and since my machine already has a diverter valve all I need to do is plug the electrical in and run the machine for 15 to 20 minutes and it will sync everything electronically together
I did not find anything on the Sonic head as mentioned when I searched the web. Is that a smaller head or do they make those for the higher horsepower machines?
I've read the specs on the new Primetechs. Just by the specs, I think I prefer what I have. I'll be happy to keep up with repairs on what I own and avoid the hassles/costs of DEF systems. My machines are paid for - cheaper to keep up good maintenance than take on payments. I already know what I own inside out and how to repair just about everything on them.
After 25 years of owning/operating/repairing mulching equipment, the one thing that I expect from EVERY machine is wear, stress cracks and break downs. Good maintenance is the key to a longer lifespan. I have yet to see any mulcher not have a couple of issues after 1k-2k hours, no matter how stout they are built. It is an abusive life for the machine.
Well yesterday while plowing one of the power wings on my blizzard snow plow half broke off.
It pretty worn out.
I will get by till spring but will need to find a good used blade set up this summer.
If I can't find one a new plow set up.
The trucks a 2008 f350 with 20,000 on it.
I don't know if anyone would have a frame mount for a 2008 if I go new.
If you can't find the parts it might be worth checking with a welder. The local shop here spends a lot of time beefing up and repairing broken plows on one tons.
gg
My son run 2 plow trucks and his welder is his best friend in business :D ;D. There are the winter storm damage repairs, but they have gone down this year (knock wood). He cleans up his plows over the summer chips them and paints. During that process it is easier to find new defects and he marks them for the welder who comes around before the fall and welds on new plates, fabs up new brackets and pivots, and generally re-builds them. Everything goes on them and it seems better to rebuild heavier as you go and they go further between breakdowns.....until your chassis goes out. ;D
@treemuncher (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=46484) So that is an impressive workout on that machine. I notice you also have an excavator and a bit wheel machine. Is that your whole fleet? Do you like that lamtrac? I had only considered the CMI machines but am holding off for 2 more years now, every $ accounted for and I don't regret selling our single machine. I like the FAE head that we owned but it needed a much larger carrier. It was ...interesting to see the internal damage not just to wear parts but to the frame of the head. Well done! on that repair job. Looks very professional, better than service from a third party.
We'd like something like a CMI 250 and an excavator with high hydraulic flow with a small head.
Quote from: nativewolf on February 18, 2021, 09:08:20 AM
@treemuncher (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=46484) So that is an impressive workout on that machine. I notice you also have an excavator and a bit wheel machine. Is that your whole fleet? Do you like that lamtrac? I had only considered the CMI machines but am holding off for 2 more years now, every $ accounted for and I don't regret selling our single machine. I like the FAE head that we owned but it needed a much larger carrier. It was ...interesting to see the internal damage not just to wear parts but to the frame of the head. Well done! on that repair job. Looks very professional, better than service from a third party.
We'd like something like a CMI 250 and an excavator with high hydraulic flow with a small head.
Nativewolf,
I'm still working on getting everything ready (and learning) the Menzi A91F excavator (seen behind the Lamtrac). There are 31 possible functions on each joystick so there is a learning curve when you throw extreme slopes and gravity into the mix. It will work almost anywhere. I've recently purchased a tree shear for that as well as a Seppi cutterhead, buckets and more. That machine has a dedicated pump that allows me to adjust flow 0-45 gpm and pressure 0-5100 psi for any attachment that I want to put on it. I also have 4 other accessory circuits that can be plumbed in. And it has a Rototilt coupler as well for more impossible angles of attack.
My big excavator you mentioned is a PC200LC-6 with a 300 hp cummins 8.3 to run the cutterhead hydraulics. It will clobber out the big stuff pretty fast but it can't cover the daily acreage that the track or tire machines can. The Barko 937 is the rubber tired machine - super fast in easy terrain conditions but with a heavy ground pressure, it's applications are limited. 10-20 acres a day is not uncommon for that machine if the detailing does not have to be perfect and it drinks about 20 gallons of diesel per hour. I still have a Fecon FTX140FM that I want to sell off - not using it any more because I've transitioned out of those smaller jobs. Great machine that will outperform any skid steer that I've ever run and it's built for the punishment of daily forestry work.
I've looked at CMI, Bron, Primetech, Fecon, Risley and many others. I took the advice of another owner/operator when I purchased the Lamtrac from him - he owned numerous units of many makes. Are there problems with it? Yes, many small issues but the major stuff, like cooling, has never been a problem. Well, except for the factory issues with radiant heat from the exhaust overheating the engine bay and melting components - I got that fixed with my own design. I have a tendency to fix/alter anything that I am not satisfied with. I also changed the head mount to a floating design. I would like to bitch-slap the programmer of the track hydraulics - no tracked machine should EVER turn by speeding up the outside track velocity - that is just STUPID - but that is what you get from a desk engineer that has never been an operating engineer. But for the most part, the hydraulic pressures run high for extreme torque and I've had few major issues with the machine. I love the Cummins 8.3 engines and this one is a beast. I'm not sure exactly what has been done to it but fuel rate tables make me believe that it has been tuned to over 350 hp. 24"-36" diameter hardwoods are just daily snacks for this thing and the FAE is a great head.
Still waiting for our rare snow to melt off so that I can get my track frames back on with the forklift. The ground should be hard for a day or two as we've seen temps as low as 1 degree and below freezing for 5+ days but those slick tires won't stand for these conditions. I work alone so I depend on that lift to allow me to get things done. Just a holding pattern for now so tax work at the desk it is while I tend the fire and wait for warmth.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/snowbound.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613663817)
Same weather here, no snow just sleet and lots of it.
Well that is an impressive set of equipment. How far are you from Bristol? I had never heard of a Menzi so I had to look that one up. Neat, wonder if it could run a dangle head harvester?
Anyway, really appreciate your post. Clear that you've got some interesting stories and good experience in the mulching world. Wish you were a bit closer.
Ever do any subsoiling work?
Quote from: treemuncher on February 18, 2021, 11:06:40 AM
Quote from: nativewolf on February 18, 2021, 09:08:20 AM
@treemuncher (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=46484) So that is an impressive workout on that machine. I notice you also have an excavator and a bit wheel machine. Is that your whole fleet? Do you like that lamtrac? I had only considered the CMI machines but am holding off for 2 more years now, every $ accounted for and I don't regret selling our single machine. I like the FAE head that we owned but it needed a much larger carrier. It was ...interesting to see the internal damage not just to wear parts but to the frame of the head. Well done! on that repair job. Looks very professional, better than service from a third party.
We'd like something like a CMI 250 and an excavator with high hydraulic flow with a small head.
Nativewolf,
I'm still working on getting everything ready (and learning) the Menzi A91F excavator (seen behind the Lamtrac). There are 31 possible functions on each joystick so there is a learning curve when you throw extreme slopes and gravity into the mix. It will work almost anywhere. I've recently purchased a tree shear for that as well as a Seppi cutterhead, buckets and more. That machine has a dedicated pump that allows me to adjust flow 0-45 gpm and pressure 0-5100 psi for any attachment that I want to put on it. I also have 4 other accessory circuits that can be plumbed in. And it has a Rototilt coupler as well for more impossible angles of attack.
My big excavator you mentioned is a PC200LC-6 with a 300 hp cummins 8.3 to run the cutterhead hydraulics. It will clobber out the big stuff pretty fast but it can't cover the daily acreage that the track or tire machines can. The Barko 937 is the rubber tired machine - super fast in easy terrain conditions but with a heavy ground pressure, it's applications are limited. 10-20 acres a day is not uncommon for that machine if the detailing does not have to be perfect and it drinks about 20 gallons of diesel per hour. I still have a Fecon FTX140FM that I want to sell off - not using it any more because I've transitioned out of those smaller jobs. Great machine that will outperform any skid steer that I've ever run and it's built for the punishment of daily forestry work.
I've looked at CMI, Bron, Primetech, Fecon, Risley and many others. I took the advice of another owner/operator when I purchased the Lamtrac from him - he owned numerous units of many makes. Are there problems with it? Yes, many small issues but the major stuff, like cooling, has never been a problem. Well, except for the factory issues with radiant heat from the exhaust overheating the engine bay and melting components - I got that fixed with my own design. I have a tendency to fix/alter anything that I am not satisfied with. I also changed the head mount to a floating design. I would like to bitch-slap the programmer of the track hydraulics - no tracked machine should EVER turn by speeding up the outside track velocity - that is just STUPID - but that is what you get from a desk engineer that has never been an operating engineer. But for the most part, the hydraulic pressures run high for extreme torque and I've had few major issues with the machine. I love the Cummins 8.3 engines and this one is a beast. I'm not sure exactly what has been done to it but fuel rate tables make me believe that it has been tuned to over 350 hp. 24"-36" diameter hardwoods are just daily snacks for this thing and the FAE is a great head.
Still waiting for our rare snow to melt off so that I can get my track frames back on with the forklift. The ground should be hard for a day or two as we've seen temps as low as 1 degree and below freezing for 5+ days but those slick tires won't stand for these conditions. I work alone so I depend on that lift to allow me to get things done. Just a holding pattern for now so tax work at the desk it is while I tend the fire and wait for warmth.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/snowbound.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613663817)
Your Lamtrac must be the 8300. That is the same unit that my friend had that went to the two PrimeTech machines. He was running a Denis Cimaf 250 and loved it but he really likes the new FAE sonic head on the PrimeTechs. Thanks for sharing a lot of your experiences and interesting information
Quote from: nativewolf on February 18, 2021, 03:10:19 PM
Same weather here, no snow just sleet and lots of it.
Well that is an impressive set of equipment. How far are you from Bristol? I had never heard of a Menzi so I had to look that one up. Neat, wonder if it could run a dangle head harvester?
Anyway, really appreciate your post. Clear that you've got some interesting stories and good experience in the mulching world. Wish you were a bit closer.
Ever do any subsoiling work?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59695/DB3860DE-3620-44A0-BCC8-0EF63B1EA40B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1613682909)
My friend also had this subsoil FAE unit and loved it. Said it worked great to turn land into tillable ground but the farmers in Alabama in his area didn't want to spend the money to do it. So he sent it down the road
Here you are treemuncher.
FAE Group has unveiled a new technology which it says is capable of improving the performance of some mulchers by 30 per cent.
The Sonic system operates the hydraulic transmission, allowing the mulcher to automatically and consistently work at maximum capacity, in any working conditions.
Sonic is also a smart system which can quickly and automatically set the mulcher's hydraulic parameters, making it easy to use, ensuring superior performance and featuring flexible installation.
FAE says super-fast calibration and improved mulcher performance are two advantages of Sonic, which makes it easy to automatically calibrate a mulcher's hydraulic parameters with a control box managed from the operator's cabin or thanks to an ergonomic control panel positioned within the mulcher. The especially quick calibration ensures optimum pairing between the operating machine and the FAE mulcher.
Quote from: Walnut Beast on February 18, 2021, 04:07:52 PM
Quote from: treemuncher on February 18, 2021, 11:06:40 AM
Quote from: nativewolf on February 18, 2021, 09:08:20 AM
@treemuncher (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=46484) So that is an impressive workout on that machine. I notice you also have an excavator and a bit wheel machine. Is that your whole fleet? Do you like that lamtrac? I had only considered the CMI machines but am holding off for 2 more years now, every $ accounted for and I don't regret selling our single machine. I like the FAE head that we owned but it needed a much larger carrier. It was ...interesting to see the internal damage not just to wear parts but to the frame of the head. Well done! on that repair job. Looks very professional, better than service from a third party.
We'd like something like a CMI 250 and an excavator with high hydraulic flow with a small head.
Nativewolf,
I'm still working on getting everything ready (and learning) the Menzi A91F excavator (seen behind the Lamtrac). There are 31 possible functions on each joystick so there is a learning curve when you throw extreme slopes and gravity into the mix. It will work almost anywhere. I've recently purchased a tree shear for that as well as a Seppi cutterhead, buckets and more. That machine has a dedicated pump that allows me to adjust flow 0-45 gpm and pressure 0-5100 psi for any attachment that I want to put on it. I also have 4 other accessory circuits that can be plumbed in. And it has a Rototilt coupler as well for more impossible angles of attack.
My big excavator you mentioned is a PC200LC-6 with a 300 hp cummins 8.3 to run the cutterhead hydraulics. It will clobber out the big stuff pretty fast but it can't cover the daily acreage that the track or tire machines can. The Barko 937 is the rubber tired machine - super fast in easy terrain conditions but with a heavy ground pressure, it's applications are limited. 10-20 acres a day is not uncommon for that machine if the detailing does not have to be perfect and it drinks about 20 gallons of diesel per hour. I still have a Fecon FTX140FM that I want to sell off - not using it any more because I've transitioned out of those smaller jobs. Great machine that will outperform any skid steer that I've ever run and it's built for the punishment of daily forestry work.
I've looked at CMI, Bron, Primetech, Fecon, Risley and many others. I took the advice of another owner/operator when I purchased the Lamtrac from him - he owned numerous units of many makes. Are there problems with it? Yes, many small issues but the major stuff, like cooling, has never been a problem. Well, except for the factory issues with radiant heat from the exhaust overheating the engine bay and melting components - I got that fixed with my own design. I have a tendency to fix/alter anything that I am not satisfied with. I also changed the head mount to a floating design. I would like to bitch-slap the programmer of the track hydraulics - no tracked machine should EVER turn by speeding up the outside track velocity - that is just STUPID - but that is what you get from a desk engineer that has never been an operating engineer. But for the most part, the hydraulic pressures run high for extreme torque and I've had few major issues with the machine. I love the Cummins 8.3 engines and this one is a beast. I'm not sure exactly what has been done to it but fuel rate tables make me believe that it has been tuned to over 350 hp. 24"-36" diameter hardwoods are just daily snacks for this thing and the FAE is a great head.
Still waiting for our rare snow to melt off so that I can get my track frames back on with the forklift. The ground should be hard for a day or two as we've seen temps as low as 1 degree and below freezing for 5+ days but those slick tires won't stand for these conditions. I work alone so I depend on that lift to allow me to get things done. Just a holding pattern for now so tax work at the desk it is while I tend the fire and wait for warmth.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/snowbound.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613663817)
Your Lamtrac must be the 8300. That is the same unit that my friend had that went to the two PrimeTech machines. He was running a Denis Cimaf 250 and loved it but he really likes the new FAE sonic head on the PrimeTechs. Thanks for sharing a lot of your experiences and interesting information
He actually still has the 8300 in addition to the two PrimeTechs
Quote from: Walnut Beast on February 18, 2021, 04:07:52 PM
Your Lamtrac must be the 8300. That is the same unit that my friend had that went to the two PrimeTech machines. He was running a Denis Cimaf 250 and loved it but he really likes the new FAE sonic head on the PrimeTechs. Thanks for sharing a lot of your experiences and interesting information
You must be talking about Tyler. He and his wife stopped at my shop last summer to get pics of the hose routing on my machine and the 4 of us had a nice visit. I did not know that he got rid of the soil mill. I was keeping him in mind for work if I came across any.
Yes, the Menzi will run a dangle head. I have never seen any here in the states but they do run a Konrad Woody 50 with a special mount. I had inquired about a used one but when I heard how much extra plumbing and electrical is involved to make one work, let alone the price, I could not see any justification for such an attachment. 95%+ of my work is mulching and I know I will never make money cutting timber so that thought is out of my head.
The Menzi I purchased came from Germany, used. It took me well over 10 years to find the right used machine with the options that I wanted. I used to own a 6000 series as a test unit years ago and I could see the possibilities of a better machine so I searched for many years. Seller spoke no English and I spoke no German but Google translate helped me put together a deal. There was no way that I could justify over $600k for a new machine without having a clientele and education of operation put together ahead of time. I'm slowly getting everything rebuilt as I see fit in order to tighten up the machine. It's in excellent shape for 7200 hrs at the time of purchase. It was well loved by the former operator(s) from what is evident on the machine.
Here is the Seppi BMS-F that I purchased for the machine last year.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/new_head.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613713336)
Your correct that was Tyler. That's definitely a really neat and interesting machine. Thanks for sharing the story and pictures. Hope to see more of it later when you get things squared away 👍
Quote from: treemuncher on February 19, 2021, 12:44:39 AM
Quote from: Walnut Beast on February 18, 2021, 04:07:52 PM
Your Lamtrac must be the 8300. That is the same unit that my friend had that went to the two PrimeTech machines. He was running a Denis Cimaf 250 and loved it but he really likes the new FAE sonic head on the PrimeTechs. Thanks for sharing a lot of your experiences and interesting information
You must be talking about Tyler. He and his wife stopped at my shop last summer to get pics of the hose routing on my machine and the 4 of us had a nice visit. I did not know that he got rid of the soil mill. I was keeping him in mind for work if I came across any.
Yes, the Menzi will run a dangle head. I have never seen any here in the states but they do run a Konrad Woody 50 with a special mount. I had inquired about a used one but when I heard how much extra plumbing and electrical is involved to make one work, let alone the price, I could not see any justification for such an attachment. 95%+ of my work is mulching and I know I will never make money cutting timber so that thought is out of my head.
The Menzi I purchased came from Germany, used. It took me well over 10 years to find the right used machine with the options that I wanted. I used to own a 6000 series as a test unit years ago and I could see the possibilities of a better machine so I searched for many years. Seller spoke no English and I spoke no German but Google translate helped me put together a deal. There was no way that I could justify over $600k for a new machine without having a clientele and education of operation put together ahead of time. I'm slowly getting everything rebuilt as I see fit in order to tighten up the machine. It's in excellent shape for 7200 hrs at the time of purchase. It was well loved by the former operator(s) from what is evident on the machine.
Here is the Seppi BMS-F that I purchased for the machine last year.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/new_head.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613713336)
You have got a gem. I didn't realize how much that Menzi could do. Absolutely amazing what they can do
Any issues with the engine clearing EPA labeling on importation.
I don't want to hijack the "Carnage" thread. Maybe I should start a separate post for Menzi, Kaiser, Euromach and other spider excavators used in the forestry industry to answer questions about it?
No problems on EPA importation - had US emissions label on French built JD4045T engine.
Carnage pics from last winter's bushing replacement on a steering knuckle.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/knuckle2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613750654)<
>
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/knuckle1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613750653)
Hydraulic nightmare in the belly of the beast....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/belly.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613751056)
As bad as that swivel housing is, its easier to put the fluid back into that then the smoke backcinto a proprietary obsolete circuit board. Hydraulics is messy but its simple.
Lucky there was no carnage. This is how you change a starter on a Valmet when the boom is extended.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25160/KIMG1266~2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1613756050)
Quote from: treemuncher on February 19, 2021, 11:11:32 AM
I don't want to hijack the "Carnage" thread. Maybe I should start a separate post for Menzi, Kaiser, Euromach and other spider excavators used in the forestry industry to answer questions about it?
No problems on EPA importation - had US emissions label on French built JD4045T engine.
Carnage pics from last winter's bushing replacement on a steering knuckle.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/knuckle2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613750654)<
>
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/knuckle1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613750653)
Hydraulic nightmare in the belly of the beast....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/belly.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613751056)
That's fine with me 😂. Love hearing above the projects. 31 functions on one joystick WOW. The options you have in about every situation is amazing. How hard or long does it take to change the head out to a bucket. Nice work. Definitely make sure everything looks good with the hydraulic hoses for sure.
Quote from: Roundhouse on February 07, 2021, 12:06:53 AM
I've been pretty lucky with hydraulics until now so hopefully I can find the problem once I'm able to work outside for more than 5 minutes without loosing feeling in my hands. I'm hoping to figure out the repair before refilling the reservoir but if I can't find the leak I may have to put some fluid back in and see where it comes out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/CL340breakdown1_nr_020521.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612671205)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/CL340breakdown2_nr_020521.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1612671469)
It's Saturday and we're finally out of the deep freeze. I already had the seat and base and front panel and bucket removed so I could see and get at the guts of the machine. With a little hydraulic oil added and firing up the engine for a couple seconds I hear the leak & see the approximate source as soon as I looked underneath. It was the line between the pump and the left side drive motor. I've got the line pulled now and next week I'll see about getting a replacement put together. I'm a hydraulic noob, I assume I'll need to find connections of this same size to replace these, the crimped connections can't be reused once they've been applied the first time can they?
The end with the 90 degree turn is the one that attaches to the pump.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/CL340hydhose1_nr_022021.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613878046)
A closer look at the split that let out all the fluid.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/CL340hydhose2_nr_022021.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613878130)
Quote from: Roundhouse on February 20, 2021, 10:46:31 PMI'm a hydraulic noob, I assume I'll need to find connections of this same size to replace these, the crimped connections can't be reused once they've been applied the first time can they?
Go to a hydraulic shop (worst case, NAPA) and have them make up a hose. Will take about 5 minutes and you will be out $40 to $100 depending on the diameter of the hose/fitting size.
Yeah you dont need to know much if you arent making your own hoses and you need to be making a lot of hose to justify that expense.
I cant tell for sure what style without seeing the insides but those are female swivel ends, hopefully just plain old JIC or flat face Oring. Hose sizes are called in a fractional increment like lumber and its in 16ths of an inch. So a -16 ("dash sixteen") or "A/N 16" is 1 inch hose and -4 is 1/4 inch etc. Make sure if youve got a 4 wire hoses thats what goes back in. Not a 2 wire to save $
Quote from: treemuncher on February 19, 2021, 12:44:39 AM
Quote from: Walnut Beast on February 18, 2021, 04:07:52 PM
Your Lamtrac must be the 8300. That is the same unit that my friend had that went to the two PrimeTech machines. He was running a Denis Cimaf 250 and loved it but he really likes the new FAE sonic head on the PrimeTechs. Thanks for sharing a lot of your experiences and interesting information
You must be talking about Tyler. He and his wife stopped at my shop last summer to get pics of the hose routing on my machine and the 4 of us had a nice visit. I did not know that he got rid of the soil mill. I was keeping him in mind for work if I came across any.
Yes, the Menzi will run a dangle head. I have never seen any here in the states but they do run a Konrad Woody 50 with a special mount. I had inquired about a used one but when I heard how much extra plumbing and electrical is involved to make one work, let alone the price, I could not see any justification for such an attachment. 95%+ of my work is mulching and I know I will never make money cutting timber so that thought is out of my head.
The Menzi I purchased came from Germany, used. It took me well over 10 years to find the right used machine with the options that I wanted. I used to own a 6000 series as a test unit years ago and I could see the possibilities of a better machine so I searched for many years. Seller spoke no English and I spoke no German but Google translate helped me put together a deal. There was no way that I could justify over $600k for a new machine without having a clientele and education of operation put together ahead of time. I'm slowly getting everything rebuilt as I see fit in order to tighten up the machine. It's in excellent shape for 7200 hrs at the time of purchase. It was well loved by the former operator(s) from what is evident on the machine.
Here is the Seppi BMS-F that I purchased for the machine last year.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56484/new_head.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1613713336)
Nice, swiss power!!
the guy with the big vacation home here in Costa Rica, which i do the big teak timber contract for is the main actionist of the menzi group. a cool feeler!
did you already learn to drive the machine? they need lots of hours of practice
I'm not very good at uploading pictures I'm here, but was browsing my camera roll and found a great pictures that seem to fit in here.
We had a broken delimbing knife on the harvester head, and the pin was bent just enough to be very stuck. We held pressure with the buncher while beating it with a hammer to get it out. (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/3E0D937B-8C4C-48EC-B3CE-0E2A4FB0010C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197393)Turns out a moose is not a good thing to find with a pickup truck...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/4EEC49D7-C1DE-4D32-BBA3-84DDE217B8F5.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197167)
Just for fun, we put 50lb of tannerite underneath a dead car, and this was the result..(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/5EDE10E1-AFD7-4236-A1A6-DD96323F5A83.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197167)
Turns out that my timberpro was losing oil in the pump drive gear box 🤦(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/DDDE6BE4-B7ED-412F-B918-49DF315E3B5B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197164)
Also, we had to put a boom on it, because we discovered that it was cracked after we bought it(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/887E5D52-9576-4E36-B980-6B89950ADCDF.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197162)
Lowboy didn't make the hill, and soon as we unchained the machine it slid off the side
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/A8A74E68-EC00-452A-A965-78FD58BBD861.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197151)
My dad figured out why there was no harvester tracks right there.. (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/44C70650-7886-4CB5-B9F9-56AA5842E404.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197138)
The eventual end of our timberpro (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/A9E27765-60DD-4A26-B448-2B95A62B8E9C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197478)
Oh man. You win the thread!
did the Timberpro light itself, or did you help it along ;D
I concur with Mike, you have won this thread (I am golf clapping for ya right now)
It ain't over yet boys..
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25160/8357.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614215660)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25160/8359.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614215694)
kiko that's not broken, that's just a special feature for getting real close to the carrier with the crane and checking that your tires from the seat!
Not sure why they left all them marbles sitting on the deck? That's gotta be a no-no :D
@wannaergo (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=23326) So did you at least get to eat the moose? I agree, you've won a dubious honor. So you had a fire in a timberpro, was that to cook the Moose?
Did you get the Ergo? What equipment are you running?
Quote from: wannaergo on February 24, 2021, 03:26:37 PM
I'm not very good at uploading pictures I'm here, but was browsing my camera roll and found a great pictures that seem to fit in here.
We had a broken delimbing knife on the harvester head, and the pin was bent just enough to be very stuck. We held pressure with the buncher while beating it with a hammer to get it out. (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/3E0D937B-8C4C-48EC-B3CE-0E2A4FB0010C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197393)Turns out a moose is not a good thing to find with a pickup truck...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/4EEC49D7-C1DE-4D32-BBA3-84DDE217B8F5.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197167)
Just for fun, we put 50lb of tannerite underneath a dead car, and this was the result..(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/5EDE10E1-AFD7-4236-A1A6-DD96323F5A83.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197167)
Turns out that my timberpro was losing oil in the pump drive gear box 🤦(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/DDDE6BE4-B7ED-412F-B918-49DF315E3B5B.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197164)
Also, we had to put a boom on it, because we discovered that it was cracked after we bought it(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/887E5D52-9576-4E36-B980-6B89950ADCDF.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197162)
Lowboy didn't make the hill, and soon as we unchained the machine it slid off the side
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/A8A74E68-EC00-452A-A965-78FD58BBD861.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197151)
My dad figured out why there was no harvester tracks right there.. (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/44C70650-7886-4CB5-B9F9-56AA5842E404.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197138)
The eventual end of our timberpro (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/A9E27765-60DD-4A26-B448-2B95A62B8E9C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1614197478)
You got some serious action going on. Definitely wouldn't get board rolling with you guys
Wannaergo, I hope all that carnage covers a long time span...on second thought, maybe you got it all over with in a couple of days?😁 Don't anyone be throwing down a challenge to Kiko, he's down south and them boys have "carnage" as part of their mission statement out in the timber. That pic he shared the one time of the grapple frame ripped in half...well, they just do stuff to machines down there that you ask yourself, "how could you do that even if you were trying?"😁
You should have seen the carnage when the Ponnse first showed up around here. The owner ended up having to import operators that could get it done with out destroying the machine.
I'm not sure if I should feel honored for taking second place in the thread... I'll let kiko have the top spot.
Those pictures were spread out over probably 5 years time, I just found them when I was going through pictures. There's definitely never a dull moment over here though..
Nope, I didn't get to keep the moose, but I don't think there was any meat worth keeping that didn't get smashed up. I was not going slow....
We did end up getting an ergo, we now run an 8 wheel ergo with an h8 head, a rottne f15 forwarder, and a John deer 853 buncher
That " it ain't over yet boys" was more of a joke than anything else. There does not need to be a winner.
Quote from: kiko on February 28, 2021, 01:51:43 PM
That " it ain't over yet boys" was more of a joke than anything else. There does not need to be a winner.
As long as the winner isn't me I find the thread a good read.
I think I heard many of the stories from when those Ponsses showed up in middle Georgia. One of my favorites was Kirk cutting big hardwood with Jake riding with, Jake said he was getting pretty used to Kirk yelling, "she's coming back, she's coming back!" before a big hardwood landed on the cab!😂😂 He was really hard on light bars that are above the windshield😁
Ponsse has a dealer now in Alabama and they had a regular crowd of people doing hurricane cleanup work in FL and most recently Louisiana. Kirk is doing training for Ponsse, pretty busy. We all miss his brother Bill, passed away too soon but at least it was quick. Bill was a one of a kind.
I haven't met Kirk, only heard stories and read the book he wrote. Sounds like a real character😊
Quote from: mike_belben on February 21, 2021, 05:57:06 AM
Yeah you dont need to know much if you arent making your own hoses and you need to be making a lot of hose to justify that expense.
I cant tell for sure what style without seeing the insides but those are female swivel ends, hopefully just plain old JIC or flat face Oring. Hose sizes are called in a fractional increment like lumber and its in 16ths of an inch. So a -16 ("dash sixteen") or "A/N 16" is 1 inch hose and -4 is 1/4 inch etc. Make sure if youve got a 4 wire hoses thats what goes back in. Not a 2 wire to save $
I brought it into a parts store here Monday morning and they made up a replacement in about an hour. I couldn't decipher if the markings on the old hose indicate 4 wire or 2. The markings on the old vs. new look to be from two different centuries so I can't tell if they are equal beyond the 3/4 size. FWIW the replacement cost $68, with the below markings:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/newhydhose2_nr_022221.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1614544985)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/newhydhose1_nr_022221.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1614545865)
I went out before dark on Monday and put the new line on. In the cramped space the fittings were a challenge to get lined up and started. After a couple rounds of "try the other end first" I got it on. I put the machine back together and put the oil in. Driving it back to the shed revealed two streams of fresh oil lining the snow as I went. Once parked I slid a sled under the machine to catch as much of that new $80 worth of oil as possible.
When I had time to reflect on the situation I realized the two streams were probably due to oil running off both sides of the skid plate and not likely due to two bad connections. Yesterday I got it out of the shed and onto cribbing, not under it's own power since the oil was out again, pulled by the truck. Took the machine apart again and to my dismay/relief the pump side connection was very loose. I must have been in a hurry and not tripple checked my work. Once I had it properly torqued, no drip. This time I did a couple cycles of adding oil, starting, and watching the connections before hiding them under the seat, battery etc. again.
A big relief to have it back in working order, and just in time. Last night brought a couple inches of heavy wet snow that the old CL340 made quick work of, and no drips!
Quote from: barbender on February 28, 2021, 03:28:10 PM
I haven't met Kirk, only heard stories and read the book he wrote. Sounds like a real character😊
Kirk is a character but his brother was a force. Green Beret, got kicked out of HS for being trouble (son of a doctor ...not from a bad family), went overseas, studied art and got his degree in art after fighting, traveled in france, went back into forestry, did quite well for a logger. They tried CTL before it was ready for large southern hardwoods, then got a bear with the HDH8 head and that made a difference and away they went. Bill knew the timber markets as well as any logger I've met and was using the CTL heads ability to precisely measure and cut grade logs in a way that I have hopes of doing.
Roundhouse, that is a 2 wire hose( the new one). Probably the only way to tell what the old was would be to cut it and count the wraps.
Quote from: kiko on February 28, 2021, 06:16:09 PM
Roundhouse, that is a 2 wire hose( the new one). Probably the only way to tell what the old was would be to cut it and count the wraps.
Thanks! I don't know what normally determines that 4 wire hose is needed but I'm optimistic this one will do the trick. The machine is mid-sized at best and not high-flow AFAIK. The hose is fully protected inside the frame of the machine and doesn't flex at all only runs from one fixed point to another.
NW, I'm glad you got to go down and meet I'm and see the operation before he passed away. Sounds like a really interesting guy.
.
more pressure takes more wire to hold it inside the hose.
There's a lot of 4 wire on processors not only because of the pressure, but also the abuse they take. Takes longer to pop😊
Yesterday about 4pm I lost the left side drive on the skidsteer, of course down in the basement, too low to lift the hood. We had both been running jackhammers all day, apparently barely on the outskirts of the hubs of hell, so decided it was a good end to the day. This morning we brought toolboxes and chains and with it not at all aligned to the exit ramp, after bumping into just about everything possible got it drug out into daylight. Master link on the drive chain had broken so $1.25 of parts and by lunchtime we were running again. I made 2 passes scooping up rocks and dirt and am heading up the ramp out of the basement when my partner hollers "You're trailing oil!" Yup, no belly pan on and I rolled a rock up into the line from the pump to one of the drive motors. By the time we got it off, new hose made and back on it was a little after 5, well we got 10 minutes in today :D.
I think we all have those days. My skidsteer has given me many of them this year. It is parked until i can muster a suitable firing squad and sufficient explosive materials to never hear from that thing again.
Split one of my tractors in half to do a clutch, once apart notice the PTO thru shaft splines were worn enough to replace. So we pulled the cab and then split off the transmission. Also replaced the brake seals and rebuilt the master while it was apart. Just got it all back together and cab back on a little after 11pm tonight, shut the cab door to call it quits for the night and the windshield explodes. Just when I was thinking everything went smoothly....
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Hydraulic hoses are just part of the game with logging equipment, but man I hate it when my windows get sprayed😡
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The way you know how to run that machine something has to slow you down sometimes 😂
Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on March 13, 2021, 12:22:11 AM
Split one of my tractors in half to do a clutch, once apart notice the PTO thru shaft splines were worn enough to replace. So we pulled the cab and then split off the transmission. Also replaced the brake seals and rebuilt the master while it was apart. Just got it all back together and cab back on a little after 11pm tonight, shut the cab door to call it quits for the night and the windshield explodes. Just when I was thinking everything went smoothly....
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Nice job!! Wow! Sorry to hear about the windshield. I bet you couldn't believe it 🙄
I'd like to know if you tracked down what caused it.
Regardless, the windshield sounds 🤬
No idea what caused it. Good news is I have a parts cab out in a snowbank with good glass. Just have to remove and reinstall without shattering it. Luckily they are old-school and use a rubber weatherstripping like a pickup back window.
I love the look without a cab.
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Just jimmy you some milk crates for a seat and you're ready to roll :D ;D
Yesterday's project,pulled the engine out of our 2-135 White
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That old Hercules is heavy!!
smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup
8.3 repower time? Herc's make great boat anchors. Lol
Went with a 5.9,
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waiting on a few parts but hopefully have it in by the end of the week. Was hesitant of an 8.3 heard of trouble with the hydrapower after guys putting in the 8.3. Also hearing in our application fuel usage should be 11/2-2 gallons less per hour which won't hurt my feelings. That Hercules was always dependable but man does it like it's groceries Trying to eliminate potential breakdowns and be somewhat efficient hoping I made the right choice.
You'd need one heck of a boat just to get that Hercules out in the lake :D
I put in more than a few hours in 2-135. Pretty good old horses. That Hercules was used in military 6X6s equipped with multi-fuel systems.
5.9 is a more fuel efficient choice. Put a lot of hours on a 2-155 MFWD with an 8.3 in it. Never had any 3 speed troubles but also never pulled it super hard. Used it mainly for PTO work and it did like its fuel but it had gobs of power.
I just finally sold my ol' '97 Dodge 3500 that had a 12 valve 5.9 in it, it had been laying in the weeds for 5 years and a kid came and wanted it. I figured what the heck, they'll give the ol' girl one last shot at glory. I hope I don't end up kicking myself when it's time to repower something.
Oh you surely will.
Well, I went over to my partner's house yesterday to see the new toy. He bought a International/Dresser TD8E crawler dozer. Engine is rebuilt and purrs. As we crawled over it cleaning and finding grease fittings and dipsticks. Dropped the belly pan and it was about 3" deep in petrified yuck but dry. One of the lift cylinders is spooging oil, found the seal kit online for about $35 and got it on the way. We pulled the seat and removed the squirrel nest and baby that didn't make the trip. It didn't look like anyone had been there in years and there was a dipstick, and it was almost off the stick, looked red but thicker than atf. What type of trans/clutch fluid does this thing take? There was a bit of water in the canister filter in the battery box but not much, looks like maybe a prefilter under the floor on the right side. Under the floorboard it looks like the right side pump is what drives this and it is not howling but not quiet... I'm hoping, it seems to hit the tracks good.
Redpowermag forum is where you will find the die hard IH, dresser and dressta mechanics. I suspect it may have run a straight weight motor oil but thats the place to ask.
newoodguy78 is that a Ford 445D your using as a cherry picker? We got.one on the farm with more hours on it than I'd like to think
Quote from: GRANITEstateMP on March 23, 2021, 05:43:54 AM
newoodguy78 is that a Ford 445D your using as a cherry picker? We got.one on the farm with more hours on it than I'd like to think
It's actually a 445a good little tractor for this operation.
Got a physics lesson today
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Better the saw than you
Carnage on the way, I have only seen the the byproduct coming out drain plug.
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Quote from: newoodguy78 on March 24, 2021, 09:23:36 PM
Better the saw than you
Indeed!! Saw was ok, bar not so much:
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BTDT. No T shirt though.. Oh well.
That bottom right pinkish rock looks like 'crab orchard' stone from middle TN.
Spider gears
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Yeah that gave up the ghost. Parts still available?
It is a 2011 TC so parts are likely unavailable, They will probably have the entire axle assembly available for the price of a new f150.
Roger that. I'll file it under 59,998 reasons why i dont need a skidder.
@kiko (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=15160) what do you figure caused that ?
Dropping the diff lock when the tires are spinning full tilt... And 35.5 tires
That'll do it
@kiko (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=15160) that reminds me of a Spicer Powerlock. If that's what it is, then no go for "new" replacement made.
HOWEVER, I'd go with a Detroit locker, because of NO cast iron in them. They DO allow for differentiation, but most people don't like the "clicking" noises that they make.
What kind of carrier is that?
Some of the internal parts do have spicer/Dana part numbers on them. However there is no data tag as the axle is branded Tcat. Not familiar with the "power lock" exactly, but the difflock uses a clutch pack that is hydraulically activated. The rind gear has some slight damage , the carrier assembly is toast.
Had to change some hoses, 5 Bucketcyl and stickcyl, 1" 4000psi, they are pretty expensive here, i payed 600$ for all. some elbow fittings needed new orings, of course they where at the center turn joint, which is always nice to get down there, real comfy to work on (https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/default/rolleyes.gif).
A boom cyl leaked and i changed the whole seal kit.
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I bet that the Detroit is made for that replacement. They make them for LOTS of different things.
Way to get it done Ramon
smiley_thumbsup
Teakwood, those hoses would cost that much or more around here for quality hose.
I was thinking the same thing, kiko.
I just paid $500 for two 48"x1" 4 braid flat face hoses. Everything is stupid expensive these days. I've been buying 1 1/4 pins for $22 each and just bought two more they almost tripled in price. Best they could knock down to was $38 each. Guess I'll be buying a 20 foot stick.
Quote from: kiko on March 26, 2021, 06:26:02 PM
Teakwood, those hoses would cost that much or more around here for quality hose.
Really, didn't know that. It was 5 hoses, 6.4m (21') of hose, parker 4000psi, 10 flat face ends which uses orings and of course the work to press them. was like 720$ but i cried a little and they gave me a super discount for cash paying to 600$ final price.
the cyl kit i got from ebay for 100$ Mottrol USA, AM parts. Volvo was 300$ and just lasted for 6years and 1000h of use, so i thought what the heck i try a quality AM brand this time.
UV light destroys the material in the rod wiper, then dust gets to the main rod seal.
Painting the wiper with an artist brush will make the wiper last much longer. Most original cylinders have the wiper painted.
Thats good to know! Thanks kiko.
finally did the slewing bearing seal. actually wasn't that bad to do it after all. 4h of cleaning was the worst but in about 1h i had the new seal in.
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the old and the new
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i used a piece of wood and rounded the edges
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had to get intimate with the machine(https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/default/cheesy.gif)
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What an idiot, was probably drunk. an easy 50$ for 15min of work, 200m from my house
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Are there any drunk driving laws in CR?
Nick
Getting it done here as well.
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Boy that looks alot like work!
Teakwood, is it an impression, or,
those two nipples haven't seen much grease in their life no?
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@teakwood (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=27555) Well done. @kiko (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=15160) what's that off of?
We've got a hydraulic tank gasket seal to replace in a month, a bit of seep. Had to fix a rotator grapple leak the other day and did not get pictures but so far simply tightening bolts and a tapered wedge has stopped it. What else? Son taped a hydraulic fitting on a crane slew cylinder, not damaged too badly. I've got 3 replacement fittings somewhere and that we'll do with the tank seal. We've got the machine almost dry, 18 months of chasing leaks. The fuel issues in saws is probably our biggest headache, we've changed gas stations thinking that there is an issue in the stations tanks or something.
Quote from: nas on April 02, 2021, 01:26:33 PM
Are there any drunk driving laws in CR?
Nick
Yes they are, including with jail. limit is 0.39. but there are like 600 traffic policemen for the whole country and in rural areas there aren't much controls.
We have no army but like 25 different polices, it's a mess. a normal policemen can't give you any traffic ticket
Quote from: Satamax on April 03, 2021, 04:13:06 AM
Teakwood, is it an impression, or,
those two nipples haven't seen much grease in their life no?
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Actually they have seen too much grease. a fault of mine was to overgrease the slewing bearing, but also the age of the machine, 21. uv light is very strong here
Rear axle tigercrap 630D
I haven't fired up the old F700 and knuckleboom in about a year. I needed to set another stick of 3' culvert behind the sawmill so fired it up and it sounded a little funny but ran ok, well for awhile, then the revs started dropping, it started getting hot, no pedal, something was wrong. I thought it was fuel so got a new filter and drained the tank. Everything looked fine there but threw in fresh fuel and same problem. I walked around, stuck my hand down by the drivers side exhaust, fine, continued around and stuck my hand down by the passengers exhaust, nothing! A-hahh! I stuck a wire up as far as I could this morning and got nothing, dove under and it is welded solid from the donut on. So dropped the whole works and acorns come rolling out :D. She's noisy and straight piped but that was it. Culvert is in and about half backfilled, the pile was wet as was the creek bank so went till the bobcat was dragging belly, hopefully the rain will hold off for a few days.
That's just nuts! ;D
every time I open the hood on any of my vehicles all I hear is hickory nuts rolling around.
Quote from: teakwood on April 02, 2021, 09:38:48 AM
finally did the slewing bearing seal. actually wasn't that bad to do it after all. 4h of cleaning was the worst but in about 1h i had the new seal in.
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the old and the new
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i used a piece of wood and rounded the edges
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had to get intimate with the machine(https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/default/cheesy.gif)
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I had no idea you can change these.
I have a 15 ton Daewoo that the seal is all broken out and cracked on. I'm going to have to call the stealership to see if they can get the replacement seal.
I'm in the middle of my last big repair now. I'm getting the hydraulic cooler rebuilt. The previous owner ended up ramming a stick through it and soldered a patch over the damage. Its been leaking slowly ever since I got it. Not a cheap repair at just over 3K$.....
The rest of the machine has been done. One new final drive, all rebuilt cylinders, rebuilt the center manifold, overhauled the hydraulic pump end to end, new set of chains and a few new pads, rebuilt the chain tensioners, repaired the radiator, and getting the heater core re-cored. Not to mention replacing just about every line on the machine..... Just off the top of my head.
Its a 1995 machine but I call it a 2020 model now. I'm defiantly going to give this a go though.
Wow, that's a lot of repairs. How much did you spent? wasn't it cheaper to buy a newer machine?
Quote from: teakwood on April 07, 2021, 08:15:50 AM
Wow, that's a lot of repairs. How much did you spent? wasn't it cheaper to buy a newer machine?
Well......
It was an Excavator / Harvester combo. 15 ton machine.
When I went to look at it, I took my wife's step dad, owner for many years. As well as my uncle, operator for his entire life. We noticed a few things leaky and such as you would expect on an old machine. I didn't know anything about them but the guys jumped in, moved it around and figured it was all good. We know the original owner had a crate engine dropped in years just prior to so its really runs beautifully. They didn't pick out anything accept a loose track that was agreed upon it just needed to be pumped out. Assuming that I was looking after inspecting the harvester they all though I got a good buy on it. The harvester doesn't frighten me in the least as machines are my forte. The excavator on the other hand, froze up the day I got it home. The center manifold was gone so bad as well as the rubber membrane on top of it that water literally poured through the machine, filling up the center cavity and leaving it unable to turn. Now, I know all about center manifolds, how they work, what they do and how to swap one out. I also started rebuilding cylinders as soon as I got it. This stuff wasn't to bad. Then the hydraulic pump failed. It didn't blow up or anything, just started leaking through the rear shaft seal. So, I learned all about pumps, and how to change them, I did mine twice thanks to the little goof up at the hydraulics shop.
Then the rad needed to be fixed. Kind of expected that to as there was empty cans of radiator stop leak strewn through the machine, which I figure was the root cause for my recent troubles with the thermostat and heater core, both of which are brand new now!
Then the track pin broke, back in the woods. This is when I realized the chains were so bad, the original owner actually removed a link! I had to get a pin made to get the machine home. Then I learned all about rebuilding the tensioning system and how much work is involved in swapping a set of chains and moving all the pads over.
The hydraulic cooler comes back today and I have learned a lot through this as well about the hydraulics. The circuit, the flow, the cooling, not a cheap lesson, but...
Oh, and during all this, a final drive blew apart. Not to bad, it was 5600$ to my door step.
This is certainly leaving out a lot of more minor things I have done.
Long story short.. I didn't expect to spend this kind of money on the machine. I thought I had the right guys with me to go look at it, I was wrong! The owner also lied, A LOT and was really a POS, he owned the machine since new and insisted it needed about 5K worth of work. At the time, I didn't see where I could spend 5K. LOLOLOLOLOL. I guess I see how quick 5K can go on this thing.
What saved me, is the fact that in between break downs, I was fiddling with the harvester head and cutting wood. I cant say its completely paid for itself yet, but certainly has paid for all its own repairs thus far. Not to mention. I know these or at least this model of machine decently well now. The experience has been good but its been a lot of work and has taken any spare minute I may have. I would be very confident now going to look at another excavator, without the helpful eye of the others that didn't see any issues with this one!
All in all, aside from the experience, I own the 15 ton excavator and Arbro 1000 all in amazing working order and maintained to the fullest for less than the cost of 1 new Arbro harvester alone. (MSRP 69K) In the coming weeks its starting to work for others to, finally. I'm hoping this can take off, Id like to give it more attention and a little less attention to food processing plants like I'v done for 20 years now. I just want to get outside. If it takes off, then I'm prepared to invest more in it. Or I could sell it, Invest my time in something else if it doesn't take off. Iv had several inquiries to sell, but I haven't entertained any yet as I know a new excavator of this caliber is knocking 200$ plus plus plus for plumbing and controls.
Sorry for all the troubles you had on the machine, on the other hand life is a learning curve and you're surely an expert now on your machine. i like the repairs and fideling around the machines, every time i learn something new
Ive not 'been there' in dollar amount on machine but ive been there. It happens, theres a lot of worse troubles to have and youve made the best out of this misfortune as you can. If you do just that for your entire life, it should average all out as a solid win.
I just fixed a roof leak for a lady up the road who has a completely rotten new house. I mean bad. She paid 2 roofers and one inspector before the purchase and the "pros" said it was all good. Some pro was willing to come pump in that $6.50 tube of solar seal that i laid down for $550 the next day but i beat him to it for free.
Be careful about trusting someone who has no liability after the transaction if their opinion turns out to be bupkis.
Quote from: mike_belben on April 08, 2021, 08:23:09 AM
Ive not 'been there' in dollar amount on machine but ive been there. It happens, theres a lot of worse troubles to have and youve made the best out of this misfortune as you can. If you do just that for your entire life, it should average all out as a solid win.
I just fixed a roof leak for a lady up the road who has a completely rotten new house. I mean bad. She paid 2 roofers and one inspector before the purchase and the "pros" said it was all good. Some pro was willing to come pump in that $6.50 tube of solar seal that i laid down for $550 the next day but i beat him to it for free.
Be careful about trusting someone who has no liability after the transaction if their opinion turns out to be bupkis.
Well its a situation where you cant really not fix it no matter the cost. Once your in the deep end you have to swim. Id really be taking a loss if it broke and I just sad to frig with with it. It had me a little steamed for a bit. However, its already shown me the potential to make me money and has more than paid for its own parts, luckily, we do most our own work and only send out the stuff that needs specialized care, pumps, manifolds, things like that. A business venture of some sort has been in my cards for a while, thou I didn't really know what to do. Also, my wife and I have literally hundreds of acres. Id estimate close to 700. A lot has no access yet and I do want to build some roads and a cottage there someday. I've already built one really nice road since I got it across one of our fields. Also, as most folks do, my Dad always wants work done and has always said he wished he had an excavator to play with.
Here ya go. Now he runs it full time. Between all the repairs of course.
All my buddys spending tons on these fancy four wheelers and side by sides, I just couldn't justify. So this was a better investment in my mind.
Speaking of repairs.. I just got the hydraulic cooler back yesterday. Its a beauty. The old one was not repairable. They had to copy the old one, build all new tanks for it, then sent away for a custom core. It looks awesome! Good weather coming for tomorrow AM, its going in! The last repair, for now... Well, other than the new FM radio antenna my Dads been asking for, that should be here today also.
Good to see a person who makes lemonade out of lemons ;) I think as long as you keep that positive attitude your gonna do good . Sometimes ya gotta just bear down and ride it out . Good luck to ya :) .
Quote from: Kim_Ked on April 09, 2021, 05:35:58 AMI just couldn't justify. So this was a better investment in my mind
X2 that's exactly how my mind works also!
Yesterday I was hell bent on twitching a 1/2 dozen Pine tree culls, 3 logs in some of them.
Ongoing woodlot management thing
Got into some brush with the tractor and the brush got hung up on the axle beside the back tire.
Instead of stopping and cleaning it out I kept her going. Ended up breaking the valve stem off the 11.2 x 24 loaded tire.
I realized it when I felt a little liquid spray and hissing going on. What a mess
Fortunately I was handy to the yard so had it back up and running in a couple hrs but decided that was enough for one day and hosed all the slime off everything.
That'll teach me not to hurry, I hope.
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Tension spring let go from one of the centrifugal flyweights inside the primary clutch, probably from the boy slipping it to death and heating the temper out of the spring. It should all buff out.
ATV?
Yeah, suzuki king quad 300. Very impressed with the precision and parts availability/price.
Finily got the yanmar back from the machine shop and reassembled about 6 weeks ago, only to have it run for 10 minutes before it developed a nasty tick. Turns out the sleeves I had purchased from China were made of old Pepsi cans and wouldn't hold and started moving down in the block.
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So back to the shop it went. This time I had the rods and mains on the crank cut, as well as custom thick wall American made sleeves pressed in.
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Re-reassembly.
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And she lives. Almost 10 hours on it now and working like a top.
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My take away from this project is that I still hate working on Skid Steers with a passion. 100lbs of crap packed in a 10lbs bag makes for a nightmare.
Never had my Grizzly apart. Doesn't it have a CVT? Like a snowmobile? Or is it fixed gearing with a centrifugal clutch?
His king quad 300 is a 5 speed manual with an "automatic" centrifugal clutch.
@chevytahoe5674 what is that tube frame thing with the ag tires in the background? Looks like something very useful and fun.
Just a mfwd loader tractor. Using it to plop the SS motor in.
yeah, theres a 3 shoe centrifugal clutch on the crank that engages a drum on an idler. that drum is the primary power to a dampened gear on the outside of a basketed conventional clutch with frictions and steels and a reverse clamping action. when you move the shifter a camming mechanism opens the clutch packs for the shift. its really unique and clever. granted CVTs do what we need for cheaper now but back when honda and suzuki were pioneering this 4wd quad stuff who knew what was gonna work. i might make a video about it.
you cant get parts for a shot 5 yr old chicom quad but you can still get most everything for a 30yr old jap machine with life still left in it. what a difference.
Cool. Thanks!
The old saying "they don't build them like they used to" holds true in tractors for sure. This tractor is a 2009 with 3800 hours on it and the axle bushing in the front planetary is shot along with the seal. Upon disassembly the wheel bearings are shot as well. To top it off someone has been inside here before as I doubt the factory used a chisel to tighten the spindle nut.
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Here's the seal. It looked like this before removal.
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The bushing. It fell out in my hand no removal tools necessary. Notice the shoulder worn to a razer edge.
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The wheel bearing race. Notice the pitting. There is a noticeable lip worn in there also.
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I have two other big 30 year old MFWD Fords with ZF front axles with over 12k hours and the front ends haven't been touched other than oil changes.
Who makes that steer axle?
Its a CNH Fiat axle. According to the dealer this sort of repair is a 1500hr "maintance" type of job... His words were "get used to it and do them early before the gears and bushings get chewed up".
Quote from: mike_belben on May 27, 2021, 09:57:46 AM
yeah, theres a 3 shoe centrifugal clutch on the crank that engages a drum on an idler. that drum is the primary power to a dampened gear on the outside of a basketed conventional clutch with frictions and steels and a reverse clamping action. when you move the shifter a camming mechanism opens the clutch packs for the shift. its really unique and clever. granted CVTs do what we need for cheaper now but back when honda and suzuki were pioneering this 4wd quad stuff who knew what was gonna work. i might make a video about it.
you cant get parts for a shot 5 yr old chicom quad but you can still get most everything for a 30yr old jap machine with life still left in it. what a difference.
That two clutch system has been around for quite a while, not sure who used it first but the little Honda Z50A had them back in the late 60's as well as the first Honda three wheelers 1970, 90 cc.
Remember when a 250cc was a big ATV! :D
Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on May 27, 2021, 10:33:26 AM
The old saying "they don't build them like they used to" holds true in tractors for sure. This tractor is a 2009 with 3800 hours on it and the axle bushing in the front planetary is shot along with the seal. Upon disassembly the wheel bearings are shot as well. To top it off someone has been inside here before as I doubt the factory used a chisel to tighten the spindle nut.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20210527_090438.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1622125441)
Here's the seal. It looked like this before removal.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/67754.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1622117342)
The bushing. It fell out in my hand no removal tools necessary. Notice the shoulder worn to a razer edge.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/67753.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1622117336)
The wheel bearing race. Notice the pitting. There is a noticeable lip worn in there also.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/67755.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1622117342)
I have two other big 30 year old MFWD Fords with ZF front axles with over 12k hours and the front ends haven't been touched other than oil changes.
I'm sure your furious but be thankful you have the talent to do the fixes yourself or you would be really furious.
Not really furious. Just a cost of doing business. Reaffirms my theory that the 30+ year old mechanical equipment will still be running long after the new stuff is crushed to make tuna cans. The new stuff sure is comfortable and user friendly when its running though, have no trouble putting the wife and 2 kids in that cab and letting them rip for 10 hours if need be.
Yup.
I needed to change out my "head float" bushings, again. I've been making these bushings from DOM tubing which is too ductile to keep from getting hammered out of round. Yes, these were 2.5" od x 2.0 id round when they started.
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In order to take some of the ductility out of these, I figured it was worth a shot to try heat treating them to make them harder. I built this little kiln/oven a couple years ago from an old propane tank.
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Parts were heated up to bright cherry red and then held there for an hour prior to immediate water quenching. Parts were returned to oven and allowed to cool slowly overnight.
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Finished product next AM. I forgot to trim the length on one of these and it was noticeably harder to cut on the lathe. If I can just get the hardness up and remove most of the ductility, these should last a lot longer through the daily hammering that they take.
While working on the bushings, I found a lot of loose track pad bolts. Never had those issues with a regular dozer. And more concerning was the major crack next to the right lift cylinder and under the right cab mount. Of course to access this issue, I had to break the track down to get to the underside.
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The factory likely had a TSB for the reinforcement plate to the left of the crack. That was installed before I purchased the machine. Engineers need to account for the heavy shock loading these machines take on to avoid these problems.
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Lots of cracks to chase out. If I had the time, I would pull the cab and get to all of it. Too busy with jobs right now, maybe in the winter months.
For those of you that are using DOM tubing bushings, I found https://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx (https://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx) Parts arrived within 3-4 days, multiple sizes available, can be ordered by dimension or bulk and the prices seemed relatively fair. It's a lot faster for me to order cut-to-length and cut down on my machining time rather than waiting for a bulk order from my local metals dealers that stock nearly nothing.
speedy metals and online metals are the two best i have found.
save up a bucket of jet black old detroit oil. heat the parts with a carburizing sooty black torch flame until they are covered in black soot. then heat until it disappears into it.. youll be cooking a bit of carbon into the surface layer. you can do a few cycles of this and then do your furnace cook-athon to get a uniform temp.
now add more carbon with a quench in that old coked up detroit oil. but dont postheat after the quench, just quench it cold. your DOM is probably 1018, 1020 or 1026 steel so they arent gonna get brittle. not enough carbon.. could be hotroll or cold roll. cold drawn would be better. a slow cool will likely resoften a bit if im remembering correctly. something about martensitic, austenitic etc that i cant recall.
You would do good on that show where they have to make Samurai swords out of ball bearings and rusty chainsaw chain. ;D
Ive not tried much of that stuff. Too busy scraping by i guess.
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Deere 140 rear end.. Wont find a dana truck carrier and axle shafts in any lawnmower made these days. I got it stuck in a stump hole with a big overloaded firewood trailer years ago and was pressed for time. Forgot to engage the towing valves so the hydraulic fluid could bypass. Give it just a little twitch with the dozer and bang. Stripped the bull gear on the pinion and chipped the hydrostat output shaft. Finally getting around to putting another rear in it.
Ive had it scale 1800lbs with me on it in sled pull mode and never broke anything other than this. Beast of a machine for its size.
So, not really a brutal breakdown by any means. But still many hours of work, sweating in the sun, covered in grease. Just the way I like it....
I had discovered a rotten hose under my excavator that is a suction line from the tank to the oil cooler. its a 2" steel line joined with a piece of flexible hydraulic line and clamps. Easy fix, but i had to drain the entire machine of hydraulic oil. Since it was down for this repair, I decided to tackle the only other leak on the machine, that has been there for sometime, but i was scared to tackle it. I had to split the pilot valve body to replace 2 precariously placed crush washers. It looked worse than it was and I even had the washers home to fix it.
So now its all back together, ready for hydraulic oil.
Now to my questions...... The last time I drained this machine and refilled it, upon starting it (within the first 2 seconds) I heard one loud crack from deep within. It was the hydraulic oil coming up to pressure through the system very fast and very hard. Luckily, that time it didn't break anything. I'm wondering, what do some of you folks do to get oil through the machine before it starts. I'm worried about creating pump damage or worse.
The only thing I can think of is to hold the kill cable all the way out and let it roll over a few times before fire up. I'm going to call today and ask the dealer if there is an approved procedure, but I'm curious what some other folks here would do.
Its a 15 ton Daewoo Solar 130-3. Double Kawasaki pump system.
Thank you!
My Komatsu 6 series has a specific bleed sequence after ANY repairs to the hydraulic system. This usually starts will bleeding out air from the main pump prior to any engine start up or turn over. If I remember correctly, there are 5 specific bleed steps and the number of steps taken depends on the type of repairs performed.
It's good practice on any system to bleed the air out of the pumps BEFORE spinning it up if you have drained the system of all oil. Check with the manufacturer for correct sequence to get the air out of the system before beginning regular operations.
I like this thread. I suppose we all have these days but there are a couple here that are stupendous!!
I'd like to say "glad it wasn't me" but who knows what tomorrow may bring?
Quote from: Kim_Ked on June 07, 2021, 06:06:03 AM
So, not really a brutal breakdown by any means. But still many hours of work, sweating in the sun, covered in grease. Just the way I like it....
I had discovered a rotten hose under my excavator that is a suction line from the tank to the oil cooler. its a 2" steel line joined with a piece of flexible hydraulic line and clamps. Easy fix, but i had to drain the entire machine of hydraulic oil. Since it was down for this repair, I decided to tackle the only other leak on the machine, that has been there for sometime, but i was scared to tackle it. I had to split the pilot valve body to replace 2 precariously placed crush washers. It looked worse than it was and I even had the washers home to fix it.
So now its all back together, ready for hydraulic oil.
Now to my questions...... The last time I drained this machine and refilled it, upon starting it (within the first 2 seconds) I heard one loud crack from deep within. It was the hydraulic oil coming up to pressure through the system very fast and very hard. Luckily, that time it didn't break anything. I'm wondering, what do some of you folks do to get oil through the machine before it starts. I'm worried about creating pump damage or worse.
The only thing I can think of is to hold the kill cable all the way out and let it roll over a few times before fire up. I'm going to call today and ask the dealer if there is an approved procedure, but I'm curious what some other folks here would do.
Its a 15 ton Daewoo Solar 130-3. Double Kawasaki pump system.
Thank you!
So I had a short conversation with the lead mechanic at the Daewoo dealership yesterday. He said there is a plug on top of the pump. Open it, let it bleed till fluid appears, then bump start the ,machine on and off quickly a few times so it doesn't reach full pressure, then I should be good to go.
Iv already done this 3 times so far, trouble free, I just started thinking about the implications of letting the fluid wail through the system at full flow when empty.
thanks for reading
This isn't dramatic carnage I think I dodged some...
I bought a project tractor, an older little front wheel assist Kubota a couple months ago. It's rough but it started and ran. The farmer I bought it from was a tractor puller and bought it in a package of 3 tractors from an estate and he didnt want to mess with this one. I thought the exhaust smelled funny and it smoked more than it should, idle wasn't right. So I thought well I'll see, I have spent more money on dummer things and hauled it home, put it in the barn.
I finally ordered some parts it needed, and they started showing up yesterday. It was too hot to work out side on much last night so I got the little tractor out and put the new adjustment link on the three point I had found, then decided that since I ordered a fuel filter i would see about cleaning the fuel tank out and put some new fuel. No sediment bowl so I couldn't see what the diesel looked like. So I was going siphon the tank out. I cheated and grabbed my mineral oil pump and drench hose out of the truck and the pump almost matched the depth of the fuel tank perfectly. I was hoping for red farm diesel flowing into my bucket but this stuff was what was in it for fuel....
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It smelled funny almost sweet but not it's a smell I have smelled before and it reminded me of old bad oil based paint. So some sort of home brewed stuff.
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This is some of the crude that was in the bottom of the tank, I sucked enough out it almost plugged my hose once. That old fuel is in some old oil jugs to be used as fire starter. Some sort of bio diesel I guess... I pulled the input line off of the filter housing and rinsed the tank with clean fuel. Then I put just a couple gallons of new #2 and a quarter bottle of sea foam in the tank and fired it up. We went for a mile and half ride to get new fuel all the way through and just see what it would do.. Once it started it ran fine exhaust didn't smell funny didn't smoke so I think I have a good motor to work with.. Have no clue what that was running on...
I see youve met "Poly."
Thats polymerized vegetable oil. Old rotten "chicken skin" from a tank of vegetable oil that sat long enough to react with metals inside. Perhaps a brass fitting, but mild steel will do it too. Thats the oil based paint smell. Im just about certain its a blend of pump fuel and veggie that didnt get diluted/consumed enough before sitting. Old pure wvo probably wouldnt start, too thick with added heat source.
My old kubota is running great on filtered waste motor oil and it doesnt react with anything long term. Cannot tell any difference in performance except it smells like bad rings because its "burnin a little oil."
Well she didn't make a good impression on me at first. Mike. A tank removal, flushing and a new epoxy liner if need be is on the list of things to polish on this septic project. I wonder what the filter looks like..... ::) surprised it ran..
Never look down on a old bota. Exceptionally good. Find a new diesel that would ingest that filth and still run!
That tank is a "just cant kill these things" testament. A torture test win. Hey lets feed it table scraps and see what happens! Oh it still runs. Gee.
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Kind of hard to tell in the pic. But I "bumped" my 661 with a 25" hemlock tree. Really only smushed the handle. And bent the dogs. Handle definitely needs replaced. Looks like $175 on eBay :( I can't find any dealers that can get one to me sooner.
My turn, and an expensive one. :'(
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Oof. Dropped a tree on it?
Quote from: mike_belben on June 27, 2021, 12:25:49 PM
Oof. Dropped a tree on it?
Nope, tried to drive it over a rock!
you okay? looks like the rock did the driving over that day. sucks man. still work other than the squirt boom?
Oww, how long is the cylinder?
Quote from: Don P on June 27, 2021, 03:24:51 PM
Oww, how long is the cylinder?
Something like 6 feet or a smidge more.
Quote from: mike_belben on June 27, 2021, 02:49:17 PM
you okay? looks like the rock did the driving over that day. sucks man. still work other than the squirt boom?
Well i store the squirt boom under the tanks usually. But i forgot that the ditch i had to pass was deep. My fault, i'm dumb!
Look how i store it.
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First job when it's repaired. Make protection for the tubes and cylinders. And make a rest for the squirt boom on top. Out of harm's way!
Now i get it. I thought you rolled it.
The guy whom I called this morning told me 3500€ for a up551 cylinder. Lovely! Not!
Ouch....
4438€ final quote. :(
Check around salvage yards for something similar. Tilt deck car trailers, and multi level car hauler trucks use extra long hydraulic rams like that.
Im certain you could have a replacement rod manufactured for less.
A hydraulic shop should be able to fix that one.
Yep, check into getting a new rod made👍
Not my carnage but almost: This morning on the way in to work a semi truck with VT plates loaded with logs pulled out just in front of me from what I believe is going to be a solar farm. Looked like a lot of small junk pine. We do not see many logging trucks here in RI. Just at the underpass to I 95 the top couple logs slid off into the road in front of me and half of the remaining stack was balancing off the back. The driver hoped out and started to try and roll the logs off the road. My first thought was to help but then decided that was a bad idea. He was going to be there a while until some equipment came to straighten things out. good ting he never made it to the highway.
Guys, that's a very specialized hydraulic cylinder. The rod is hollow, and has a tube inside. At the end of the rod, there is a metal piece, with two outlets, with metal tubes which are linked to the second cylinder.
The two are in series.
Look at how the fly jib extends.
Palfinger 34002-SH E with JIB - YouTube (https://youtu.be/RMivPU0J7ic)
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Pulled in the other day after getting rained/blown out of the field to find this about had the big one. Guess this really belongs in a got lucky thread 2 1/2 feet in either direction and about 8 thousand in pumps would have been flattened. We're looking into upgrading our pump situation but some glad we weren't forced into it ;D
Oof.
Day after i got my king quad i laid a tree on it. Lucky the dozer track minimized it.
High cost of "self-taught."
I loaded up the trailer a couple of weeks ago and something sounded bad when I pulled out. Broken equalizer between spings, the opposite side had a broken U bolt and the axle had slid back on that side. As I looked it over the axle tubes were pretty badly rusted, hangers were worn. It needed new running gear. About 2 grand of parts arrived this week and I welded enough to get it back last night at a crawl.
We flipped it this morning and commenced the destruction.
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I forgot to get a picture but by the end of the day it had new spring hangers welded on, springs, shckles and new equalizers and we got the seats welded on one axle and got it mounted, hopefully we can flip it sunny side up tomorrow, although a slathering of rustoleum under there would be a good thing.
Literally $2,000 usd?!
Yup, ain't nuthin cheap right now, including freight. Basically everything from there down. I went ahead and changed over from mobile home to 6 bolt hubs, wheels and tires, new brakes etc. I still need to get wiring and redo that, and protect it better. I might expand the old rough holes enough to slide Pex through the frame... I'm seeing another coupla days thinking about it but it should be basically a new trailer, with old decking :D. The old stuff is looking like the beginnings of a farm use sawdust/shavings bin.
Funny thing was as we measured from the hitch back to put the new hangers on it had been originally built with the axles dog tracking about 3/4".
It sounds like it (the trailer) needs an alignment. I guess they're ways to do that, but I don't know how you'd go about it, other than trial & error. If anyone knows, please speak up.
You just stringline em off the hitchball. Dont even need measurements really. Just visegrip a string in the middle of the coupler and cut it to length for the far axle.. Swing from side to side using a consistent point like perch or backing plate. Adjust axle based on the string and not on squareness, tack it up. Do the front axle, tack it in and now go nuts trying to prove anything is out of trail. It doesnt matter if the deck rides straight behind the body of the truck so much as that tires are all inline or theyll chew apart. My old 8 wheeler 4 axle tag will kill a new tire in 2 thousand miles because they were all welded outta wack.
Its common to square axles off a framerail not realizing theyve welded up a parallelogram.
Obviously the goal is everything square, inline with the tow unit and excellent tire life. The tire life is most important imo.
@don ive gotten very good service life out of romex main wiring and wirenuts with dielectric grease at the lights. Every 5 years or so just trim off an inch, restrip, new wirenut. I use the ground conductor instead of steel grounding. That never lasts long.
That's basically what we did, measured from the hitch to the center, equalizer hanger on each side, then forward and back for the spring hangers. It also went from 33" axle centers to 35" just based on the parts I got.
I tacked some conduit along the frame rails, patched and spliced the wiring and slid it through the conduit. Just wire nutted the brakes to try them. It was getting ready to rain again, raining now, so just put it back on all fours. Didn't get paint on it but I'll dangle it from the Lull at some point and get to that. I'll go down in a bit and finish getting the lights going.
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There it is. It sits several inches higher than it did, hopefully the ramps still work. It'll go out with about 1500' of white pine siding tomorrow. BTW, 2 similar loads of pine green from the saw, one right into the kiln, 5 days of fans on the second load cut 2 days off the kiln time. Free water :D.
Completely new axles?
Quote from: mike_belben on July 11, 2021, 10:31:35 AM
You just stringline em off the hitchball. Dont even need measurements really. Just visegrip a string in the middle of the coupler and cut it to length for the far axle.. Swing from side to side using a consistent point like perch or backing plate. Adjust axle based on the string and not on squareness, tack it up. Do the front axle, tack it in and now go nuts trying to prove anything is out of trail. It doesnt matter if the deck rides straight behind the body of the truck so much as that tires are all inline or theyll chew apart. My old 8 wheeler 4 axle tag will kill a new tire in 2 thousand miles because they were all welded outta wack.
Its common to square axles off a framerail not realizing theyve welded up a parallelogram.
Obviously the goal is everything square, inline with the tow unit and excellent tire life. The tire life is most important imo.
@don ive gotten very good service life out of romex main wiring and wirenuts with dielectric grease at the lights. Every 5 years or so just trim off an inch, restrip, new wirenut. I use the ground conductor instead of steel grounding. That never lasts long.
Run wires down both sides of trailer; tail lights both sides, brakes, both sides, r/h turn, right side and l/h turn, left side. Solder everything and shrink tube. Truck recepticle use tractor trailer [7 pin[ style mounted in bumper, not under or behind wheel , rubber boot, sealed. Will last 30 years.
Yes, new axles, the rust on the old tubes was pretty serious, its all new from the spring hangers down. I should have pulled diagonal measures but yes it i slightly out of square. Not enough that I had ever noticed it but I'm sure they did what Mike was saying and either squared off the long rail or measured back from the angled corner rather than from the hitch when they set the axles originally. It rode, well, it rode like an empty tandem axle trailer :D. It is a well built thing, 6"x1/4" C channel perimeter with 4" C channel inside to support the deck. I really should upsize to a 2-5/16" hitch, it's just a 2" on it now. I've had it for over 20 years and if it makes it another 20 it'll probably be at the big auction.
I like the idea of running the wiring down both sides. I pretty much just patched the wiring and protected it better with some conduit. I've snagged it in the brush and had cows strip the wiring on one job, copper thieves :D. It is a 7 pin plug. It's all running down one side and crossing at the axles, through the front axle tube and then across the back for the lights. It had brakes on just one axle before, I got brakes for both, those wires are gonna be the weak link for damage. I'll pull new wire and probably go to LED lights when I do that. Those aren't that old but the sockets are corroded. The 4" pipe surround on the lights are pretty good protectors but I've still managed to bust lenses a time or two with sticks backing up to load logs in the brush.
Alright the price makes more sense now.
The 7k torflex axle i ejected out of the GN near albany was an obsolete $1100 custom build replacement quote, a year before covid.. I bet its near $2k and a forever wait now. The current ones have replaceable splindles but mine are welded. I got one out clean and still need to do the other. Then find a pair of weld in stubs, make both angle brackets, and go up yonder to put it back in the trailer.
Thats what i get for maxxing everything out.
It was a tossup whether to put it here or in "Did something dumb today" :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/dozer1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1626916202)
My partner decided to check out the undercarriage the easy way today. When he came walking up and we went to go look my first reaction was "I know a guy with a crane. I never thought the Lull had that much grunt in it. They are each about 10 tons.
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Ahh this is why we got into slabs.
Just another day at work :D
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So that is where we left it at about 6:30 this evening. I drug it, we haven't fired it up. What do I need to check/do prior to hitting the key?
First thing I would check, where's the battery? Is it still in the correct place? Check all fluids. Too much, too little. All mixed up, contaminated?
Is that groundwater where the cage is in pic1 ?
You mean in the roof impact crater, oh yeah :D, it is a bog. I was nervous taking the Lull down there.
Good thinking on the Battery. I was going to let everything settle overnight, check fluids, probably remove the sump plug and make sure just oil is coming out.
Look and see if the injection pump has its own little dipsticks. One of my old boschs does, one for the plunger section and one for the governor. If it flipped it would probably leak out and the engine does not supply.
I've seen a rod sent through the side of a block before from that situation. Oil gets past the piston ring when they are submerged when the engine is laying sideways. If you're lucky, that piston will be at or near tdc when you hit the key. If not, and another cylinder fires first and sends the oiled piston up at full force, there's no where for the oil to go and you get the rod through the block surprise. You can turn it over by hand first to be safe😊
Good thought, it was on its side for about 5 hrs till I could get the Lull over there. I've seen them hydrolock on jobsites before when this happens. Took loosening the injectors to let the oil/water/fuel, whatever, blow out then it ran smokey/rough for a few minutes. Hand turn sounds like a good safe way to check for that.
Check the exhaust over good. Hopefully just bent the pipe, but look for cracks in the manifold. (And of course for mud plugging the muffler). ;D
Next question is "What did he run up on to turn it over?"
Wud
You need to bar the engine over at least four complete revolutions with out it getting locked up before you ever touch the key switch. It really only need two but I feel better with four. Also oil in the intake can cause the engine to run away.
Thanks for the replies, we turned it over by hand several times with no trouble, checked fluids, added trans, it had popped the dipstick out. Everything else was fine. Luckily the muffler was the only thing bent, below it is good. She fired right up, needs a bath. The lift cylinder on the right side is spooging hydraulic oil, we had done the left side but had a blade dropping problem, well, this might help diagnose it :D. Need to watch the rod as it moves. I dropped of fluids and did a few minutes of wrenching with him today but spent most of the day cleaning up and moving outta the woods.
As to how it happened, welll, I was needing to move the Lull out of the woods. The road was narrow, off camber muddy and it had rained, oh and it has several vertical drops right alongside it. We decided to get the dozer over there and do a little road work. It is only several hundred yards from his house to the property we were working on but across the blacktop. He loaded up, didn't chain and was just going to crawl over there. As he swung a corner in his back yard the trailer tracked onto some soft ground, tipped a bit and he said when he looked in the mirror it looked like a BB on a dinner plate, slid right off, over an embankement, over the roof and onto its other side. A 3/4 gainer with a sow cow thrown in for good measure :D. Chain em up every time!
:o
Haha it was actually way worse than it looked!
At least no one was in the seat when it happened, or it could of been a whole lot worse. :o
One of the excavating guys on YouTube made removable steel rails that run down the center of his trailer to prevent sliding sideways, makes it safer for loading tracked machines on uneven ground or when the deck is slick.
That would explain it. I know from experience to chain and then check the chains again. :-\
Wud
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Thank you Northeast Nebraska Trailer repair.
Not a great picture, but about halfway home hauling my tractor back from the cabin, heard a bang, trailer didn't move. Was rolling fine...I Was on the phone with my wife told her I better get slowed down and I'd call back. Got out rim and tire gone. Off in a cattail slough in the passenger ditch....Studs all broken just inside the hub. Grease cap was gone off of the bearing but they seemed fine. I was able to cross the highway and a farm place had a good turn around a little ways down the road. So fortunately I was 3 miles south of a town..So I slowly limped it back to the parking lot of a veterinary clinic. They were open so I stuck my head in the door and asked if I could unload the tractor there for a few days. They were gracious and understanding. Before I left they handed me a phone number for a trailer repair shop the next town East. I was going south worth a try...so I called the number and a nice lady said if you can limp it here we will look. Long story short one of the mechanics was repacking wheel bearings on a stock trailer they were reflooring he stopped what her was doing. Looked at my itrailer ssues said well this isn't so bad. Rummaged around found stud bolts, slipped the hub off cleaned up the old grease repacked the bearings, then tapped in the stud bolts for me and then the spare tire and rim on. Then I pulled up to their diesel pump and filled up. I paid my bill which was reasonable ordered and a new rim and spare. Then I headed back west to retrieve the tractor.
The office was still open so I stuck my head in the door and thanked them and told them I would drop off some chocolate for lot rent next time I was through. Cost me about two and a half hours time but it was worth it not to have to make a special trip up to get the tractor after I had fixed the hub. Rest of journey was fine...Got home and unloaded most of the daylight was shot. Parked the trailer called it a day.
Thank God for small towns.
Glad to hear that! Small towns make surviving carnage a lot easier.. You can almost count on the average stranger being happy to help.
I was double overloaded like a desperate idiot with hungry kids, hauling the last load, all the best logs to stave mill in alabama on a friday with a 4 wheeler gooseneck and no CDL at 42k total. Blew a tire on the right hand side and had a horrible time raising the pile while im sweating every state looking vehicle that rolls by.
There was 24k on the deck and it was all leaned into a soft shoulder with the truck 1/3 in the road. Any more off the shoulder was not possible and i know the road, absolutely no where to pull off for miles. Anyway, i could not get the height to get the new tire back on.. The 20T bottle jack was just going down and down no matter how much junk i had it on. I had to keep putting the shardy blown tire on to take the jack out and stack more under.
By the time i got mobile there was no way i was making it to the mill before close, they werent open again until monday and i couldnt be sleeping in a parking lot 3 days waiting. and probably also no way i was making it back up the mountain at 8-10% grade and 800ft elevation change. Id be plugging a major route if the truck stalled or broke and almost certainly roll down backwards into the line of traffic @ 42k total with no parking brake. Cant risk an attempt. Cant trust the trailer not to get stolen if im not hooked to it.
A old guy pulls up to check on me, i tell him im fixed but cant make the mill and cant make the mountain. He has me hide the loaded trailer behind his house maybe a mile down the road and come back monday. Guy really saved my bacon.
You know if you think about it, angels come in all sorts of disguises. Most of the time they don't even realize it either.... I have to remind myself sometimes that God put me here to help people and I am blessed even though the phones ringing at 12:15 and somebody's dog got into their sisters pot gummies..... :)
Quote from: Nebraska on August 13, 2021, 10:43:24 AMsomebody's dog got into their sisters pot gummies.....
Its never theirs is it.
Kind of blaming your kids less desirable traits on their aunts and uncles.:)
Youve never farted in company and yelled at the dog?
Amateurs. ::)
Quote from: mike_belben on August 13, 2021, 08:33:26 AM
Glad to hear that! Small towns make surviving carnage a lot easier.. You can almost count on the average stranger being happy to help.
I was double overloaded like a desperate idiot with hungry kids, hauling the last load, all the best logs to stave mill in alabama on a friday with a 4 wheeler gooseneck and no CDL at 42k total. Blew a tire on the right hand side and had a horrible time raising the pile while im sweating every state looking vehicle that rolls by.
There was 24k on the deck and it was all leaned into a soft shoulder with the truck 1/3 in the road. Any more off the shoulder was not possible and i know the road, absolutely no where to pull off for miles. Anyway, i could not get the height to get the new tire back on.. The 20T bottle jack was just going down and down no matter how much junk i had it on. I had to keep putting the shardy blown tire on to take the jack out and stack more under.
By the time i got mobile there was no way i was making it to the mill before close, they werent open again until monday and i couldnt be sleeping in a parking lot 3 days waiting. and probably also no way i was making it back up the mountain at 8-10% grade and 800ft elevation change. Id be plugging a major route if the truck stalled or broke and almost certainly roll down backwards into the line of traffic @ 42k total with no parking brake. Cant risk an attempt. Cant trust the trailer not to get stolen if im not hooked to it.
A old guy pulls up to check on me, i tell him im fixed but cant make the mill and cant make the mountain. He has me hide the loaded trailer behind his house maybe a mile down the road and come back monday. Guy really saved my bacon.
Wow! Sounds like you were up SCHMIDTS creek without a paddle There for a second lol
Nah.. The axle stayed in the trailer that time. Much worse was the time it flew out. But i conquered that event too. Then the front knuckle coming off the truck.
Stand back folks. UnderSafe Load coming through. My existence really does justify DOTs job.
;D
DOT=Department Of Trouble 😈
They can be.
unfortunately they have their place. I cannot tell you how many times I have driven under a flying mattress or over one in the highway because of less than stellar ppl thinking they can hold it down with their hand out the window.
Ah yes, that's the #1 reason that I believe in firmly securing my loads. I don't know why others don't do the same. 🤦🏻
Its almost highway mattress season as the collage students will be going back to school soon.
Quote from: Tacotodd on August 13, 2021, 09:49:28 PM
Ah yes, that's the #1 reason that I believe in firmly securing my loads. I don't know why others don't do the same. 🤦🏻
You should see the average person try to figure out a ratchet strap, There's your answer lol
Quote from: Hilltop366 on August 14, 2021, 12:01:08 AM
Its almost highway mattress season as the collage students will be going back to school soon.
:D
A flange bearing failed on my live deck. I tried to be nice. Use heat to get it apart and re use parts. Ya right. I used heat to get it apart and have new stuff ordered from Surplus Center. I've got a dead deck for the next few days ;) :)
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@Corley5 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=27) that's a bummer along with all of the lightening strike. :-[ I guess that's what makes for a persons good character eh?
Thatll teach it.
A couple pics from my archives.
First was a full pup trailer that disconnected from the truck/loader. I can't recall if the pintle hook failed or maybe the locking arm was not fastened and it popped out somehow - this was maybe 10yrs ago. Barely missed the building that houses the water supply and pump for the log yard spray system.
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This one was of similar vintage. Logs delivered in a gondola type trailer. Logs froze in the bed and didn't slide out when the trailer dump was near its top. Rather level ground, but not level enough. Trailer tipped on its side.
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It doesn't take much to tip a loaded semi end dump over. It's like wedging a tree, an inch or two right to left by the back wheels moves it a couple feet up in the air. Logs in a dump box always has a risk of being wedged in, even if they aren't frozen. And depending how they come out the tailgate, they can get tangled up blocking the flow.
I have often wondered how they get them back on the wheels after that?
1st you unload it (looks like a fork grapple loader is doing so in the picture), then you get a heavy tow truck to lift the rig. The rotator models are basically a crane with outriggers, that can swing out and lift the rig back upright. Jamie Davis towing has videos of them in action.
Quote from: Crusarius on August 19, 2021, 11:34:52 AM
I have often wondered how they get them back on the wheels after that?
Sample:
End Dump Trailer ROLLOVER | Absolutely Perfect Execution! - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_2mWk9nN-Q)
a frameless log dump seems like a terrible idea.
Quote from: mike_belben on August 19, 2021, 03:34:23 PM
a frameless log dump seems like a terrible idea.
Agree. But we get them to this day on a regular basis. I don't recall any other problems except that one.
i guess it makes sense in a super high volume lot where the trucks have to turn and burn fast and everything is over a weight scale. but what a mess for the yard workers to be unbungling. i hope they have knucklebooms or atleast forks with thumb.
Volume through our yard is not high. No scales, everything is either scaled in the field or in the yard. Dump trailers are regular, but infrequent. Nearly everything is unloaded with a knuckle boom.
After talking with the yard folks, the one in the picture was up-righted by chaining the body and frame together and pushing it back over with the front end loader (seem removing logs from the trailer). There was another one that tipped over around that same timeframe. In that case the air suspension was not relieved and the load bounced when the dump cylinder reached the top.
I am told a frameless with bags inflated is asking to go for a ride. Forget to lay it out one time and theres goes your telescopic cylinder.
Another one ::) 500m from my finca. bad drivers, bad trucks, long hours, i think he was from salvador. had soap in it, the police tried to prevent the people from getting their yearly supply on soap :D. they couldn't do much against 300 persons, they gather like vultures :D :D
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That was a doozy. Did it rip in half from the crash or the recovery?
Whats a finca?
Farm
That happened with a lobster truck not too far away from me a couple years ago, people were picking up still live lobster
Quote from: mike_belben on September 11, 2021, 08:54:01 AM
That was a doozy. Did it rip in half from the crash or the recovery?
Whats a finca?
from the recovery, but as it was pretty step there the semi looked like a prezel just from the crash itself.
a finca is a piece of land between 15-999 hectares, after 1000 it's called a hacienda, in theory
Those aluminum van trailers are built as lightweight as possible, think of it like a giant square pop can. The walls work like a truss to bear the cargo weight, and once they are compromised, they can rip in half.
Quote from: Resonator on September 12, 2021, 11:29:29 AM
Those aluminum van trailers are built as lightweight as possible, think of it like a giant square pop can. The walls work like a truss to bear the cargo weight, and once they are compromised, they can rip in half.
I'm derailing quickly. Happy B-Day @Resonator (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37685) :new_year:
Thanks Todd! OK to derail a thread about wrecks. ;D
Quote from: Tacotodd on September 12, 2021, 07:22:16 PM
Quote from: Resonator on September 12, 2021, 11:29:29 AM
Those aluminum van trailers are built as lightweight as possible, think of it like a giant square pop can. The walls work like a truss to bear the cargo weight, and once they are compromised, they can rip in half.
I'm derailing quickly. Happy B-Day @Resonator (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37685) :new_year:
Dang I'm hungry, thinking I could eat a whole couple a lobsters right now, you ever tried cream lobster chowder? Lobster roll?? :D
Quote from: mike_belben on June 28, 2021, 06:45:59 PM
Im certain you could have a replacement rod manufactured for less.
Quote from: mike_belben on June 27, 2021, 02:49:17 PM
you okay? looks like the rock did the driving over that day. sucks man. still work other than the squirt boom?
Quote from: Satamax on June 27, 2021, 11:38:58 AM
My turn, and an expensive one. :'(
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Well several quotes later, a crook stealing 1800€ from me. I tried to buy a whole jib from UK. Which never arrived.
It's back to working normally. I just bought another one. This time i paid attention to what i was doing. And the guy didn't know what he was selling i think. I paid less than the one i got stung on.
Lowest quote for rebuilding the whole cylinder, 2500€ from an italian company near me. The red one is already foe sale on a big french secondhand site.
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not really carnage, just my day to day life. seems like something needs my love and affection 3x a week.
yesterday after loading the junk bunk trailer with pallet logs, poof, magic smoke comes up from the winch motor area and the remote is click clacking the solenoid but nothing is happening. the winch is 10 yrs old but sat in a box until this year, has very low hours.
i pulled the motor apart and it looked fine, nothing to fix in there. only pic i took is putting the 4 pole brush holder back on, figured itll help someone in the future. need 4 hands, use 4 clamps.
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the remote was making the contactor click in both directions so its not suspect. took the chicom 500A contactor apart and it looked fine but had some very superficial arc spots on the contacts inside. few file strokes, reassemble, walla. winch is back online.
the tractor has always been hard to start despite having enough batteries to start a semi. id put it off long enough and this was getting old
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pulled the 1972 denso starter off and took it apart. aha. carbon fouled commutator.
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this machine has a decompression and glowplugs on a manual rocker switch. it could barely turn itself over with the decompressor open. it could never start without a few minutes of glowplug then crank 5 to 10 revolutions then glowplug then crank. and since end of summer it has needed all that and a jump, then i would leave it idling half the day if needed to avoid shutting off. winching has not helped the batteries at all since it has a 10amp generator.. the batteries are really doing all the work. i have to pull the radiator hoses and do some substantial fabwork to put a delco 12si alternator on it soon. it is my fault that the winch contactor arc'd because of the little generator allowing a big voltage drop. the $50 generic contactors are made very well and are easily serviced.
anyways.. used a razorblade to clean up the commutator keys, then file and sand the surface back to new.
hose it off with brakleen, sand the brushes a bit, shine up every copper contact, grease the end bush, reassemble and walla #2..
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the machine can now crank hard enough not only to start without the decompressor, but hard enough to do it without glowplugs, and hard enough to raise the 3 pt and drive the machine in gear.
so a little sandpaper and some tinkering from 9:30 to noon me saved like $500 today in normal person dollars. with what stuff costs anymore i dont know how one can afford not to be a mechanic.
I'm working on my 2010 dodge 1500, got in to start it last Thursday and the wipers started going full tilt headlights on hi and no rpm/speedo all dead. Started at the fuse box only one fuse blown, changed that still no help, thought the tipm was bad took it out, can't find anything wrong. So I moved the wires under the steering wheel the idiot light flashed then quit, I'm now thinking the wiring going thru to the drivers door has a break. It's so cold out 35° all day that I didn't go look.
Have the rear axle from a Iron Mule 5310 in the shop. Broke a sun gear shaft, which sent large chunks of metal circulating throughout. Not a single gear in the entire axle has all its teeth still intact, every bearing shot. It ate the pinion bearings allowing the pinion to move into the carrier and cut a trench into it.
The problem with this is finding parts. It is a Ford A62 end loader axle. Not many of them laying around. Also believe it is a front axle from the loader but not certain on that yet.
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That must've made a really expensive noise when it let go.
That is a very bad day
The machine is used to feed cattle way out on some old clear cut ground. Was about 1.5 miles back last winter in 4-5 foot of snow. Owner broke it and then proceeded to drive back to the house for more bales, then hauled the 2nd load and fed them all with 3wd and chunks of steel rolling around in there.
Those A62s are the same axles in my forklift, built by nasco down in alabama, theyre still in business and may still have parts. They had seals in stock for me last year and my machine is an 85 i think.
I have the book on my machine if u need nasco part numbers. Or maybe they know where some are
That definitely qualifies as carnage 😬
I see old Iron Mules for sale on CL locally if your looking for a parts machine.
Quote from: mike_belben on November 17, 2021, 02:58:52 PMme saved like $500 today in normal person dollars
lol :D :D normal person dollars!
Ouch everybody! If you haven't gotten bit by this week then you better hold onto your hat cause it's one of those.
A minor issue, old brittle zip tie broke and poor routing melted wire insulation on exhaust manifold - real nice dead short (unfused!) SMOKED the battery. Master disconnect and fire extinguisher mandatory if you live on the junk side of the moon :-*
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Hope things get better for everyone or at least not worse
ALWAYS hope for the better.
Like I tell people: I've been better, I've been worse; but I'll take the better any day.
This axle is built by ford. Most of the parts are the same as a Ford 7700 tractor axle, they even come with the ford casting numbers in them.
The issue isn't so much finding parts its the cost to the customer. Buying every single gear, bearing, race, shaft, etc individually is prohibitively costly.
Is it (realistically) possibly to acquire a rebuild kit along with the pieces that are not in the kit to do a complete job? Kinda like a full on build to an automotive unit. I did that (but with salvage pieces) to a housing for a 1st gen Bronco for the SAS conversion on my little Tacoma. Besides, I wasn't going to be using any of the other stuff that came on the housing anyway, major upgrades for my unit, like wheel patterns and such. I'll tell more about it if anyone is curious.
yes, from the ford A62 wheel loader i presume.
i understand on the cost.
A "rebuild kit" would likely get you the bearings and seals. But hard parts like planetary sets, shafts, ring and pinion, planetary ring gears, etc all need to be purchased separately.
I'd like to find a complete axle, but thats not an easy task.
Last resort will be to buy a ford 7000 or 7700 tractor and gut it for parts.
a dead wheel loader will get you two of the right axles, tractor only one.
A dead Ford wheel loader would be ideal but isn't as common as a tractor. Ford made a couple thousand wheel loaders and a couple hundred thousand tractors. Tractor requires swapping guts into this housing, dead wheel loader only has one correct axle (one reverse ring and pinion).
If it was mine I would probably part the machine out and be done with it. The front half is a ford 7700 tractor without a front axle and the inside of that differential has all kinds of the internal castings busted out. Once upon a time the pinion bearings broke the casting so somebody welded what they could back together so the pinion bearings are only sorta supported. The dual power splitter has been bolted together so it doesn't function. List goes on. But its not mine so I only do as I'm asked and paid to do.
i was gonna say its stupid to make a reverse gearset when they could just flip the housing but then remembered that the pinion would then be driving the coast side of the ring gear tooth.
i think if that tired machine were mine i would find a pair of 10 lug dana 80s or some duece or 5 ton rears and just weld the rim centers. those are all cheap and very stout. mega trucks do outrageous things with outrageous horsepower on D80s. Fsuperduty uhaul fleets were the easiest place to find matching pairs in my scrap life. i used to buy them by weight for $220 each, often with 5.13s. 14 bolt is a really good axle but the price has gone way up and supply way down now that rockbouncers are cutting them into steers.
honestly 5tons are overkill for a mule, i have 4 of them here. rockwell F106 from F700 type MDTs use a 6.xX ish ratio and are commonly what backyard monster track axles are built from by grafting planetary steer knuckles. IH schoolbuses were 20K juice brake square tube with standard big 10 pattern.. i couldnt even get scrap weight money on them. i have a row lined up for a long time before they got sheared, and i wish i bought 4 of them.
Problem is the front axle is the rear axle of a tractor, attached directly to the transmission and engine. No way of swapping that without serious machine work and fabrication (would have to make a place to seal the transmission housing, support the output shaft, then have an output shaft made to accept a yoke of some sort, then couple that to an axle adding considerable overall length). And to match the front axle the rear needs a 9.7x something ratio which isn't too common.
Yeah thats a major project. Its too bad they built em that way.
Ive lit myself on fire plenty of times but this is the first incident that wrecked 2 good sweatshirts. Dangit.
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Not sure what im doing here but im doing something.
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Grinder or torches?
You're in Tennessee, don't you need any sleeveless sweaters? When life hands you lemons...😁
One thing I have learned torch cutting and grinding, holes worn into Carhart jackets are good places for spatter to collect, and the thread frayed edges tend to catch sparks.
Sniff, sniff, sumpthin's burn'n... :o ;D
Good place to post something I guess: so our poor truck took another beating crossing a river the other day and we start hearing a rumbling sound from rear, like driving on rumble strips, when at higher speeds. Park it at the house and start checking rear wheels, driveline (a bit of play) and finally check rear diff oil and realize it is a bit low so I think well it is likely the drive shaft and I'd go ahead and change the rear diff oil while it is parked. Open the rear diff cover and out fall the two cap bolts for the passenger side axle. :D. Yeah...I think I found the rumbling sound. Gesh.
SO anyway one bolt is broken so I drill it and work out with a torx head tapped into a slightly small drill'd hole (very nice trick). I then want to go around and get the bolts so I can put it back together and drive it til I can get a reputable shop to figure out the driveline/axle issue. Well local Ford folks won't sell me the cap bolts, only sell me the full housing that comes with the bolts :(. I can't find online. I finally am about to just put in grade 8 bolts when, genius for me, I call the Ford shop 6 hours away at my parents house. They also don't have them but they can order them from Ford and have them there in 12 hours. So anyway a happy short term solution that keeps the truck moving for the month while we get things sorted on finding a shop to do some work and not gut the piggybank.
If your talking about the bearing cap bolts they hold the carrier in place. If gone that means the carrier was able to move away under thrust from the pinion. The ring and pinion are likely shot. Wouldn't be surprised if the axle bearings are shot as well from the axle not running true in the housing. Would make sure to inspect and measure the bearing cap and housing to make sure the bearing being loose and spinning didn't wreck the housing.
If it was mine I would probably source a junkyard low mile axle as it will be significantly cheaper than a rebuild.
Chevy that's what we figure as well. I am looking, in the meantime the truck moves and that is amazing I guess in own right.
If you end up going that route be sure to have the vin number handy to verify you're getting the proper ratio. Swapped one out in our market truck a year ago and was amazed how many ratio possibilities there was. Ended up calling three different ford dealers to make sure the info I got all lined up. Really wasn't bad swapping it out.
Quote from: newoodguy78 on November 23, 2021, 02:47:12 PM
If you end up going that route be sure to have the vin number handy to verify you're getting the proper ratio. Swapped one out in our market truck a year ago and was amazed how many ratio possibilities there was. Ended up calling three different ford dealers to make sure the info I got all lined up. Really wasn't bad swapping it out.
Right, done that axle lookup several times now. The good news about being so close to DC is the number of junkyards. I think there are 50 rear axles within an hour. I'll get one next week.
I'll give my .02 from the other side of the coin😁 Those gears and bearing are tough. While I probably wouldn't replace a bunch of expensive parts without a complete replacement or a rebuild either, what do you have to lose at this point if you just run it? Let me give you for an example, my 01 Chevy 2500HD Duramax. I call it either, " Ol' Smokey" or "The Heavy Chevy" depending on my mood at the moment. 345K on the odometer, it has so many issues I wouldn't even know where to start. It seems like everytime I get a seal or whatever to quit leaking, it just pops a leak somewhere else. It has a head gasket leak that will randomly make a half gallon of antifreeze disappear, as it pressurizes the cooling system. It really makes a "POP!" when you pull the cap off😂 What's my point? Well, the stupid thing still gets me to the woods everyday, can handle my 14K dump trailer loaded just fine, it's beat up enough that I don't feel bad when I back into stuff out in the woods (common😂). Unfortunately getting the head gaskets done would cost more than the truck is worth. Honestly, most repairs are more than it's worth. So I just keep driving her until one day it won't go anymore, even with all of my band-aids. Oh, in the midst of all my seal changing and hole plugging stories, I forgot the one that was pertinent to your situation. I had a rear wheel seal leaking. I changed the son of a gun 3 times, and the last time I change the wheel bearings too because I could not figure out what the problem was. So for about a year while all this played out, my one axle always had 80-90 all over it. One day, I must've went to long without topping off the rear end and when I got out to the woods, Lord mercy I had me a fahr!😂 Thankfully I had a hand pump of water because of the dry conditions we were having, and I didn't have to deploy my fire extinguisher. But what happened was I basically ran the rear end and axles dry😬 The bearings on the leaky wheel got so hot it caught the accumulated grime on fire. So I went for one more try on the wheel seal. What happened, as it turns out was the person I bought it from must've changed the seal, but they didn't get the inner flange of the old seal off. This was a two piece seal, the inner seal is metal and blended perfectly with the machined steps on the axle. So the whole time I was putting seals in and the was a piece of the old one on there🤦🏻♂️ Bearings had a bit of a straw color, in steel tempering terms😁 I didn't look the gears over, I'll get a chance when I put a pinion seal in it next😂 But I don't really care what they look like, my guess is all that stuff will be working fine when something else big let's go and relegates the poor thing to the scrap yard.
Our my scenario where I cheaped out and replaced just bad pinion bearings (outer pinion bearing was so bad you couldn't keep a u-joint and yoke together), could never get the gear pattern exactly the same with the new bearings as the old. After 250k miles the ring and pinion didn't like the change in pattern. So they decided to eat themselves at 3am, 400 miles from home with a sleeping wife and baby in the truck. So my cheap fix ended up costing big when I had to paid to have it towed and fixed as I had nothing more than hand tools along for the ride.
Its a toss up, if you don't mind being stranded someplace then I guess just run it til she blows.
I wouldn't take the Heavy Chevy on a road trip, when it lays down it will be between my house and a job so my wife can come and get me😁 Or if our lowboy is in the area he can pick me up. Rigs that go farther than that get fixed right.
I am sort of aiming for a middle ground. I'm going to put the bolts back in and seal it up. No long rides and no carrying firewood. In the meantime I am shopping for a new axle. If I find an axle in 1 week at a great price, I win. If it takes me 2 months ok too. The longest drive I'll make will be to get the axle and take the truck to get that done.
I'm going to have the front end done at the same time. If the junkyard has a better bed I might get one too, and a tailgate. Cows ...hate em.
That bed is worth more than my truck. Dont expect to find one better than yours.
One of today's jobs was too figure out why the starter was grinding in the plow truck. ('98 GMC 1500 4.3L)
I think I found the issue.
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Looks like I shimmed the starter too much when I replaced it a couple years ago. I should have pulled it the first time it was grinding instead of running it until it stopped starting... About 10+20% of the teeth are damaged. Now I'm trying to figure out if I can clean up these teeth enough and get rid of the shims to get the teeth engaged deeper to avoid pulling the trans/transfer. 😒
No chance. Waste of time trying.
Start pulling the trans out... like Mike said waste of time trying to fix that.
Quote from: mike_belben on December 12, 2021, 02:15:27 PM
No chance. Waste of time trying.
Yeah, I figured. Hopefully the weather stays snow-free until it's back together. Most of the teeth are perfect, but the bad ones are toast
Check your starter drive teeth while you're in there. Worn with bad is not a good idea ;)
Just before Christmas I had my finest one tooth display hanging off the front of the skidsteer, think single subsoiler shank hanging off the front instead of forks on the rack.
I was working up the hard pack under the house we are working on when I heard a pop, looked down and I had torn the front knuckles off the arms. Bummer!
I didn't have the camera for the approach but hopefully this is the getaway. We cut and welded 1/4" plate for each side of each knuckle and wrapped a strap of 1/4" around and back to the arms. We'll move it back today and see if we got it stuck back together well enough, lots of stress on not much steel there.
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Wow you tore the loader arm. I thought it was the cylinder rod eyelet wore through.
Nice job.
Working on something similar as Don. Bought this skid steer with these "patches" welded over what I assumed was a crack. Fast forward a thousand hours and stumping a few miles of fencelines. After it cracked thru the surface it was time to fix it right. What I found underneath is pretty bad. The pin boss was tore partially out once upon a time and "welded" back in place crooked. So all the "weld" (use that term loosely as its more like bird 6!@#%^&*) has been removed and the pin boss moved back to where it needs to be. Some more prep work and its time to start welding it back up.
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I guess gehl shoulda stacked another teardrop gusset over that tube bushing on each side.
The other side is original and never been broke. The boom is basically the same as the current model machines and neither I or the dealer have ever seen or heard of another failure. This particular machine had a rough previous life, maintance and care are two words its never seen.
And when you have an abused machine that'll lift 7k+ lbs you know she's seen some things in her day she shouldn't have. Ha
I am continually amazed by the things I have seen people manage to break.
Sometimes I even amaze myself :D
I feel better seeing basically the exact same failure. Complete with a previous repair. The parts maunual shows a bushing, I figured mine was an early model, interesting to see it the same on a newer machine.
I just got the color closer. The first coat was rustoleum JD Yellow, we call it ETP Yellow cause its outta this world ::). I mixed in a few drops of red and it is closer and less offensive :D.
Nice job on the repair Don looks better than factory.
Quote from: Don P on January 01, 2022, 08:32:54 AM
Just before Christmas I had my finest one tooth display hanging off the front of the skidsteer, think single subsoiler shank hanging off the front instead of forks on the rack.
I was working up the hard pack under the house we are working on when I heard a pop, looked down and I had torn the front knuckles off the arms. Bummer!
I didn't have the camera for the approach but hopefully this is the getaway. We cut and welded 1/4" plate for each side of each knuckle and wrapped a strap of 1/4" around and back to the arms. We'll move it back today and see if we got it stuck back together well enough, lots of stress on not much steel there.
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Anytime I have had to do something similar to this I always try not to have a straigh piece going from top to bottom on the arm. that creates a weak heat effected sone and the perfect failure point for the next time. I typically have a diamond shape I use. works well an gives more meat to work with.
I thought I was the only one who used high lifts in sketchy positions like that. :) very effective.
That poor highlift has seen about as abuse at the skid steer itself. The main beam is bowed, all the pins are bent, the bolt that connects the handle arm to the rest is been bent and busted then replaced with a GR8. It often requires a hammer to tap the pins in and put as it goes up and down. Ha
Because I wanted to be able to test fit the pin in and out to make sure the boss was aligned as best as possible with pin bore I couldn't leave the high lift jack in there. So I welded a shark fin on with 2 cutouts for wedges. This allowed me to fine tune the position so that pin slides in and out freely now.
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that was clever thinking.
Thanks Mike. I've been fortunate to work with some very skilled individuals over the years. And while I may not be as good as any of them at their own kraft I try to learn and apply what I can from each and every one of them.
I dare say when that fix is done you'll never have to deal with it again. It already looks better. You do nice work.
Ross HP70 steering box, non functional.
Symptoms: 180 degrees of slop/free play then binds tight in both directions.
Diagnosis: Never adjusted, oiled, greased or maintained, manual never consulted.
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Outer sleeve of steering column had been broken, brazed back together and then broken again. Manual states there must be NO tension on column when mounted, or this exact thing will happen.
That broken outer sleeve allowed water to enter the steering box..
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Chipped out the ice, confirmed slop is just from not being adjusted (it is very easy to adjust the finger that rides in the worm gear). Bind was as you guessed, due to the whole thing being full of a mixture of cement hard grease and ice.
Treatment: Seal it back up and fill with diesel for a good soaking. Need to address broken column sleeve to prevent further water infiltration and mounting to prevent breaking the sleeve again. With a little grease, proper adjustment and filled with oil should be good for another 50 years
When I looked at the pictures of the guts my thought was "that just looks nasty, it doesn't look hurt". Can you split the appropriate sized pipe and weld a sleeve over the break?
Yep got lucky, nothing grenaded just didn't know where else to post. Since the box is welded to the frame and the arm is welded to the main shaft it could have been a nightmare if something was proper munched. Pipe sleeve is probably the route for column fix.
Parts are still available but expensive, $419 for that stud that rides the worm gear (with bearings). At that point might as well just go full hydro ???
For $400 id have a scrapyard forklift orbital valve and doubled ended cylinder in mind.
Whats this in.. Old truck?
My thoughts as well Mike but it is in my old straight frame skidder and would like to keep it as original as possible, take to shows etc for some fun. Light restomod leaning harder at resto than mod. Been picking away at it at night when it is not too far below 0. These Ross boxes are supposed to be pretty nice, it has a 12gpm valve on it and a beefy cylinder already. Factory hydro assist, would prob make the rock crawlers go nuts if it wasn't push/pull
hehe, you had me drooling till you said push pull :)
Lets see some pics of this thing.
I will start a thread soon but here you go. It cost about the same as a Ross HP70 stud/bearings and a 30pack :D
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Works for me
8)
long forks sure help getting belly pans on, but im either gonna have to turn that frown upside down or do some wallerin with the gas axe. theyre like 2 inches out.
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real good thing i decided to go lay on the cold ground instead of wait a while because the trans drain plug was backing out and a final is full of milk. pretty soon the blade will have to come off to rebush the main pivots, and ideally the idler slides need built back up too. new top rolls is probably asking too much of the wallet.
looks like you could cut some slits into that angle iron for relief then bend er back then weld the gaps?
hows that dozer work i hadnt realized you had that much equipment
when its running and you need a dozer, theres nothing like it.
gonna pie cut the ribs and ratchet binder the sides in then brace it i guess.
Serpentine belt tensioner failed this morning @-18F, decided to move South for the winter after a few -20s. Saw it coming for the past week, new belt on hand. Grab tensioner from parts truck (after getting foot of snow off hood) and off to the races.
Hang in there mudfarmer.
High of 48 today. Maybe daily mud season aint so bad.
That would be fun in those temps, the thing that irks me when working in the cold with iron is hitting your hand the pain factor is 10x :)
I don't know why that is, but it's a fact. A smashed cold hand is a special kind of pain😬
Quote from: barbender on January 24, 2022, 05:45:43 PM
I don't know why that is, but it's a fact. A smashed cold hand is a special kind of pain😬
"DOHHHHH!!!!"
(possible cussing)
:)
Changing fuel filters in very cold temps with diesel on your hands is also a special kind of hurt and cold.
Quote from: KEC on January 24, 2022, 06:34:20 PM
Changing fuel filters in very cold temps with diesel on your hands is also a special kind of hurt and cold.
:D :D :D @mike_belben (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=33722)
Once upon a time there was an old Native American fella driving truck for a local logger. Of course the fuel gauge didn't work in the old cab over Binder. To see how much fuel it had he'd roll up his sleeve and stick his arm into the tank. We'd heard that's how he did it. One morning at the shop a buddy and I saw him do it. It was only 15 below :)
That's a special kind of tough.
Like stirrin' yer coffee with yer thumb.......
That guy was a real dipstick.
Hmm that last one resembles a dad joke. ;) :)
Or at least I've been told..
Probably daily. :)
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i got the flanges drawn back in last night. i can add a spreader bar in the rear pan to keep it if the welder doesnt run out of gas. time to go see what starts and get after it i guess. thank god the kids went to school. a week home over 2" of snow. right after 3 straight weeks from covid and winter break. im burned out on kids
Mike, Good thinking on using that ratchet binder for a puller, I just learned a newb trick, thanks.
Well leave it a little wide so you can do the next trick when reinstalling it, small bottle jack on its side to get the flipping holes to line up :D. Pushing wasn't too bad, trying to pull it open would have been a mess. I see you slammed down and balanced on the same rock. It's still there ;D
The pan only had a few bolts when i bought it so thats why it splayed so bad. I drew the holes back in to the correct measured dimension and gas wallowed em for ease.
Once i reinstall with every bolt i suspect theyll stay good. Ive ran with pans off for years just fine. i dont stuff my iron like an employee since im the mechanic too.
I wish they were SAE bolts so i didnt have to go buy them.
Just a few of the mishaps from the lates snow event. I had 3 trucks running steady and the one that really shined the dreaded 6.0 ran like a top and the newer f550 I drive going great until one rear tire passed me. It bared right and into the snow it went out of sight. It broke all 10 studs and the wheels are junk now. 8 stud wheels are trouble this is the first time of problems with this one. Started the Volvo always goes good after a few hours the front of the wing will not go out. There is a slide on the wing post and a cable to lift it. The slide is 3/4 inch steel it broke in to. Toke it out welded it off I go 3 hours later a air can starts leaking. Back to the garage I usually have one on hand. Nope not this time.and looking at the slide it's cracked above the weld. That's the snow plow biz
Hang in there snowstorm, no good deed goes unpunished.
public service announcement for you guys in glaciated regions. add some gear oil to your front wheel bearing grease next time you are in there. if you have never experienced losing an entire knuckle and having the wheel, brake and all fly off your truck, well lets say its one for the bucket list. the last one if timing is bad.
i had it happen to me a few years back and its probably in the beginning of this thread. a friend of mine in memphis had it happen on a UD rollback last week and do an incredible job welding the bearing race to the spindle. just not a good time. took him days of torching, chipping and filling/buffing to get the spindle salvaged.
last night i was in a winch planetary around 10pm and a ways below freezing. the grease was sticking to my finger like snotty bubbleyum. it was very plastic and would not even wet the gear. id smear it into the teeth and whatever i smeared would follow my finger and come right off the gear. warm it up and it would flow. soon as it cooled, snot. there is no lubrication because it just squeezes out of the gear teeth and packs into cavities in the housing.
i finally remembered this is why greased bearings fail in deep winter, which was the case in both me and my buddies experience. so i added some 90WT to the winch planetary and worked it in. what a difference. never had a cable freewheel so good in winter. i bet one could add some gear oil to a grease cartridge to get it into trailer hubs and so forth.
i suggest getting a little bit of lube in your front end grease before it locks up or flies apart on you. big job to repair a lost knuckle. wipes out the fender, the tire, the side hung fuel tank on a big truck.. brake parts, dumps the truck on the tie rod or oil pan or whatever else. nothing anybody needs to experience. trust me.
Just a thought: corn grease is sort of halfway between gear oil and most wheel bearing grease. I have used it for some purpose but can't remember right now.
A tip from the frozen north, Saskatchewan
That light grade of tube grease (corn head spindle grease) not Mazola correct. :)
One of the youtube machinery guys kind of did the opposite. He bought a tracked dump machine that was leaking oil from the final drives, said the solution was to pump them full of grease. ;D
This time of year its not uncommon to dump a tube of grease in the boom swing base. Keeps it going until it can be rebuilt in the Spring downtime.
with that being said, oil is still the main lube.
I agree with Mike and good write up on the challenges with grease.
Do you use white lithium grease much? Seems to work OK for cold. Snowblower chains I use lithium grease and Castrol chainlube. Castrol goes on foamy but changes to oil right away.
I must admit I usually use what's at hand. :)
no not had a tube of white lith in atleast a decade. i live completely hand to mouth with my life on fire at all times. the cheapest option is always my only option. just barely eekin by.
:)
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What kind of oil/grease will get these pistons out? Haha. I've gotten them to budge a little bit. They are all finally seeping oil down past the pistons now.
dont drive them up.. drive them DOWN a touch. then hand sand the bores up above the ring lines so they can be driven out. softwood dowel so you dont shatter them. let the wood absorb the shock
I just unstuck a little farmall. I used a mixture of marvel mystery oil, PB and atf. Took a few days of soaking then I tapped them down with a block of hardwood. Patience is definitely your friend it takes a bit.
If that's the engine out of your latest purchase it looked stuck pretty good.
Yes it's out of the Dunham log hog I just bought. I got all 3 to move down. I've sanded the hell out of the pistons and haven't gotten them to budge back up yet. Took a 20 lb sledge to budge them down. I can't get a good enough bite on the backside with the connecting rods in the way.
pull the crank out of the way and cut a notch in a 2x4 for the rod to clear. it put an old pair of gloves or socks over the rod big end so it doesnt knick anything and keep rotating the beater block so the pistons dont get cocked sideways.
if they really wont move heat the pistons directly and stop before they melt. count to 10 or so and start beating. theyll expand, then give off their heat to the bores and shrink so you get a little window where the male shrinks while the female expands.
I would probably set the block in a shop press with the crankcase facing up and apply pressure to the beater block. If you can force the pistons to the top of the cylinder, you will probably be able to drive them out from there. If not, drive them back down, press them back up again.
If the ridge at the top of the cylinder isn't really proud, a cylinder hone could remove it.
A press is capable of taking the ring lands off before you get any feedback.
Id keep soaking heating and beating. The wrist pin boss and perimeter is strong. The piston top or bottom is not as much.
Not mine, am just the itinerant grease monkey that got to take apart and put back together. Forgot to take a pic but the welder did a very nice job on super short notice. Maybe can see that it had been half broken before(rust) and then got finished off.
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There were two broken pins in there nobody knew about too :-X
Seeing the good ol' PB Blaster always reminds me of a story a friend from Georgia told. He and his FIL started getting into putting up hay together as a hobby, even though neither of them had a farming background. In the course of learning about old haying equipment and keeping it running, they were directed to an old fellow named Pope Califax. Now Pope (who had the unusual habit of speaking of himself in the third person, ala Bob Dole) explained to them the one part they were fighting should be sprayed with PB Blaster and it would keep it freed up. Well they were haying and the part seized, so they went to ask Pope what to do. So Pope asked them if they had sprayed it with PB Blaster. "Yes, we sprayed it with WD-40", they told him. Pope indignantly replied, "did Pope Califax tell you to spray it with WD-40? NO! Pope Califax told you to spray it with PB Blaster!" So he wouldn't give them any other advice, only to use PB Blaster. So they went back and used PB Blaster, and it worked!🤷♂️ After hearing that story, every time I use PB Blaster I think that the can should have, "Pope Califax Approved" on it😁
PB Blaster good to clean parts, but Blue Creeper (thanks logrite) is best to "free things up".
Pope Califax didn't know that. ;)
This is very minor compared to most of the carnage you guys create but I tweaked the bracket that holds the lower snatch block to my winch. Created quite a bind so the block did not want to swing.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21065/LowerPulley1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1646395012)
I mounted it on the winch and bolted a couple draw bars to it. Then with all the finesse I could muster used the loader to apply pressure.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21065/LowerPulley2.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1646395018)
All is good again.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21065/LowerPulley3.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1646395078)
gg
You will want to put some reinforcing on that or it will just bend again.
That is one serious bucket you have there. does it help for breaking up nasty dry clay?
You guys are hilarious! :D
Pope Califax knows of but has never used Blue Creeper. Pope Califax didn't even need the PB blaster due to pin slop...
Nice creative fix g_man!
What kind of wheel loader broke? Guessing an antique Case with that yellow frame and red wheel.
Quote from: Resonator on March 04, 2022, 10:09:04 AM
What kind of wheel loader broke? Guessing an antique Case with that yellow frame and red wheel.
Broken Trojan #2 in past month. I guess after 60 or 70 years(??) Stuff starts wearing out :)
MudFarmer: " I guess after 60 or 70 years(??) Stuff starts wearing out " (https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/default/smiley.gif)
Now your getting a little too personal.......
gg
wow, if you did not know trojan made loaders this would be bad :)
I agree with g_man, getting way to personal :)
Gotcha. Same design as those old Case non-articulated rear wheel steer models. Usually when there is rust in the break it has been cracked a long time. I seen a guy at a quarry one time with a loaded semi belly dump that ignored cracks too long, and broke the trailer in half. :o Hauling overweight didn't help either. ::)
Nope I don't think Pope Califax ever crossed paths with Blue Creeper BT, this might've happened before it was even available. For all I know, Pope Califax could be down in North Georgia extolling the excellency of Blue Creeper now...WDH?😊
Started a "simple" oil pan gasket and front crank seal job on a big ford. The crank seal goes in from the inside of the timing cover so it must be removed and the oil pan needs to come down to get the timing cover off, and for the oil pan to come off the front bolster needs to be rolled forward ~4"...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/17727.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1646458407)
Well upon closer inspection the front cast bolster is broke around the bolt holes that hold the whole machine together.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/17738.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1646458433)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/17739.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1646458433)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20220304_222807.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1646458501)
Judging by the dirt, rust, and wear in the crack its safe to say its been broke a good long while.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20220304_222841.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1646458467)
Found the spring from the crank seal had come out of the seal which I'm sure is why it was leaking.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/17760.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1646458450)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/17742.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1646459479)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/17741.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1646459457)
Yeah, that's carnage😬😬
I hate it when that happens.
Not really carnage, but enough embarrassment to go around. I work often at a large operation that operates a 200 cow dairy, along with custom farm work and a busy excavation operation. Yesterday I was in one area trying to finish up getting s corn planter ready for spring when I got a call from the dirt side.
They had a semi tractor they needed to use that would not build air and wanted some other ideas. Single digit temps overnight, so the obvious thought was it was froze up somewhere and they focused on that idea. But there was low pressure air flowing everywhere they checked, and they had fed a lot of air system alcohol in to make sure there was no ice. As always, it was hooked up to a trailer, so access was limited to search for leaks. Too far from the shop to run shop air to it, so it wasn't easy to listen for leaks while the engine was running. They had tapped into another truck to charge it up, but that wasn't much better. They were tapped into the secondary tank on this tractor with no joy, so we decided to move to the primary side with the booster hose, and also run the tractor's engine to pack more air into the whole system.
This did build air in it; both gages were rising, along with the racket of two trucks running, so listening was not an option, just checking the exhaust of all valves and connections by feel. As the gages rose above 70-80 psi we heard a noise and shut down to see what it was. The air horn was blowing! Someone had yanked on the lanyard while the tractor was parked, and the valve stuck open. With the tractor compressor alone, the horn bled off air as fast as it was pumped, and the engine noise obscured it.
Pushed the horn valve shut, and things worked normally. Fed a little WD40 in the valve and all will be well. Probably the compressor is worn enough to not be pumping efficiently,too. learnsomethin'everyday.
So would that be a "blowhard"? 🤦🏻🤣
maybe i will start manufacturing a specially formulated blend of horn oil to go with my blinker fluid and muffler bearing offerings. :D
chevy, i bet that casting can be fixed by a good bevel grinding and torch baked preheat to cook the oils out, then nyrod-99 tig if you have one, with a postheat cooldown and a layer of fiberglass plopped ontop to slow the cool. any tinking and clinking needs more post heat. im sure there are good stick rods for it too but i dont have much stick time.
It could probably be welded up but I just happen to have a spare bolster from a parts tractor I bought a few years ago. The spare isn't cracked and has no stripped holes so its a no brainer to just swap it over.
You might take the precaution of welding a few fillets on there to increase its strength around the holes. The bolster may already be halfway there to where yours is now. Unless you have it magnafluxed, you can't see internal cracks.
I'm not worried about the "new" one being cracked. They don't crack from normal use. They crack when somebody doesn't properly support both halves when they roll it apart. To do any front engine work you unbolt the bolster from the motor and roll the front away, installing long bolts thru the holes to keep both halves aligned. But guys make the mistake and let the long bolts support the weight which is how they crack. Proper way is long bolts to keep it aligned and then a jack and rolling stand to support the weight while rolling it apart.
Ah. Forgive my ignorance on what was going on there. I think I understand all the conversation about support frames and splitting the tractor now. I am just an old auto mechanic.
Rule of thumb for old trucks, don't blow your air horn going downhill. You'll loose air pressure for brakes. smiley_thumbsup
Rule of thumb for old steam engines, don't toot your whistle going uphill. You'll loose steam power for pulling. ;D
Oliver
QuotePushed the horn valve shut, and things worked normally. Fed a little WD40 in the valve and all will be well.
Hopefully you have some Blue Creeper to free up such things as valves.. Pretty impressive the many applications where Blue Creeper shines.
I was using my Bobcat with my new grapple when the lift etc stopped working. luckily I was close to my house and got it near my basement door.
When I stopped I saw a spreading puddle of hydraulic oil.
I spent a day cleaning old oil soaked dirt out, I found some drain holes I didn't know about. The dirt was up to the axle tubes.
It's really hard to get to those places. I didn't see anything really obvious so I poured a couple gallons of oil in and started it up. I immediately shut it down as the oil i just put in was now on the ground. I'm glad I have a lot of sawdust to soak up oil.
I started feeling around the 3/4" hose from the pump to the valve body and just barely felt a wire sticking out.
I had to call a friend for some help, my 1 1/4" wrench is at work. after about 45min we got the hose out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/IMG_54985B15D.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1648300678)
One of the benifits I have with working where I do is we have a pretty good set up for making hoses and a very good selection of JIC adapters and fittings. What we do not have is the long drop 3/4" elbow hose end. after some thinking and measuring I came up with a new adapter and a gauge port tee would make the same length. I also realized the original adapter is one of the JIC with an oring on the nose, and there was no oring. I can remember discussing these with our supplier years ago and coming to the conclusion that they are not needed.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/IMG_55005B15D.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1648301595)
Last night I got my friend over again and it took us about 1 hr to install the new hose. filled it up with oil and tested. NO leaks
I hope this fixed my persistent small leak I was not able to find.
Our new reverse osmosis machine for our syrup operation has those JIC O-ring fittings in stainless. I'd never seen them and I've seen my share of JIC stuff :) :) Bobcats are pleasant beasts to work on ;) ;D :). My old 753 is great :)
Not sure this rates as carnage, but a bearing went out on our gator. Other than $29 and a 3 day wait for the replacement, the only damage done was a very black thumb from smashing it with a 3lb hammer while "tapping" the old race off the shaft. I was surprised that even without seals or cages, 3 of the original balls were still present after driving it home from the sugar bush.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0405221107a.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1649219749)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43722/0405221106.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1649219731)
Its been a while since i noticed a leaf spring dragging in the dirt. What do i win?
I've had a few of those Mike😊
Funny thing the ubolt was new. On these narrow country roads that tire gets the ditch at speed alot so i guess it got loose and snapped.
The trailer has 4 dumbell axles and 8 leafs, 4 rockers. It was all worn out and welded crooked so it ate tires and crabbed bad. I slowly started replacing stuff as i could afford while switching from slipper to shackle. Many tires, 8 loaded backing plates, 4 new springs. I dropped it to a 4 wheeler to go behind my pickup for now until i could get everything out and do all new which is 95% on hand.
I really havent been too badly overloading if at all.
It was fine when i left home for the mill and dragging when i pulled up for the check. No idea when it happened, uneventful trip. Praise the lord i broke a few miles from a dexter distributor i had to pass anyway. $8 later i was fixed in their lot just before the rain.
Then the big hose i blew the day before was only $24, and the red diesel that half my log check woulda went into was free. I walked in to the terminal to find out the amount i pumped was cash only and id just deposited the money in my account so i went out to get the landowners cash, when i came back in they said arent you the guy married to so n so? I said yeah. The whole office kinda looked at me and said youre all set, just go ahead. My wife did end of life care on the owners father, who founded the company, and became close friends with the wife/mother. He was a great man who everyone loved and several there are kin who grew up together as a family. It was a somber moment thinkin of him and i think a few of us coulda cried.
When she was caring for him, our check came from them indirectly so we tried to always buy their fuel because even at a higher price it came back to us. Their wealth hired my wifes employer for care. After he passed ive tried to continue knowing the money really employs a lot of hard working locals who feed their families right here, people my kids surely know from school.
Well it really came full circle yesterday. Was my lucky day. Buy local.
I finally have my new forklift in the shop and starting to wrench around. changed and filled oils, new filters, have to repair hand and footbrake, motoroil looked milky, hope it's not a cracked block.
Have a question, it's a around 1970 allis chalmers FPL40-24-2PS, 1.5to. the transmission fluid is red, i guess ATF fluid, is that what they use? Diff would be normal diff oil? and hyd system is normal hyd oil?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37555/IMG_20220410_073434.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1649597483)
that seems to be the hyd oil return filter, some element type, how do i open this? i put a oilfilter wrench on it and it won't open, didn't want to force it too much. i guess the rusty lower part screws open from the base???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37555/IMG-20220405-WA0025.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1649598386)
Quote from: teakwood on April 10, 2022, 09:49:02 AMi put a oilfilter wrench on it and it won't open, didn't want to force it too much. i guess the rusty lower part screws open from the base???
Bluecreeper! It should twist off. The bracket on my SkyTrak is aluminum. I guess the threads were a little tweaked (tightened too much?) and one day it blew out spraying oil just past the driver's face. I bought a new bracket/fitting along with the filter. Fairly cheap replacement as it is a very common part. I'd just replace it on your forklift and save the hassle that will end up being futile.
Agree, just replace the filter assembly, if wrenching on this one fails to unscrew the cup that holds the cartridge.
For sure, I'd try blue creeper first.
Quote from: beenthere on April 10, 2022, 01:15:22 PMFor sure, I'd try blue creeper first.
I have it so I would use it. But @teakwood (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=27555) would need to send off for it and wait a month or two for delivery in C.R. ;) So, a swap out would be way faster!
Put a little heat to it and get your wrench/strap up towards the top of the canister
Items with a rubber ring seal needs continuous slow steady (turning) pressure to be removed, a quick jerk like a bolt usually won't work.
Thanks guys, will try the heat thing first. How about my guesses on the oils, am i certain with it?
The filter with the size of hose and low pressure clamps looks like it could be the return line hydraulic filter, does one of the lines go from filter to tank? If it does then it's a hyd return filter.
Heated the filter housing and it turned open and turns out that the screw on top was holding the whole thing together, feel like a complete moron
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37555/IMG-20220405-WA0025.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1649598386)
It's a hydraulic return filter, the old filter says 262F on it, but I'm not sure if this was the correct filter to start with. I cross referenced the number and the new numbers throw out fuel filters? Can hyd filters and fuel filters be the same? It's 8" long, 3" OD, 1" ID
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/37555/IMG_20220412_090009.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1649938819)
Well you got it apart, learned something and didn't break anything....i'd call it a success.
Does not look like there was hyd. oil in this filter, that or it drained very clean of hyd. oil.
But if in any doubt, I'd change out both the housing and its appropriate filter together.
X2. Online they sell a threaded filter head with filter as an assembly, listed by pump GPM / PSI so it can fit many applications.
My workhorse trailer is my skid steer trailer. I bought it used to move my skid steer around, a decade or so ago. It's been useful in so many ways beyond moving that machine. It has hauled hay, logs, lumber, cars, scrap, sheds, tractors, a forklift, tin roofing, and many other things. As they say "it owes me nothing at this point". It's always been a little loud, clunks and bangs, which I attributed to the slack in the drawbar as it has a surge braking setup. Pretty troublefree, I redid the taillights a year or two ago, tires too. I was dismayed at how quickly the tires were wearing.
With two 6000lb axles I'm usually using the trailer well below the rated capacity. For a time I've had a cracked leaf. After moving my "new" forklift last summer I had two broken leaves by fall (both sides of the front axle). This became a project-in-waiting over the winter. As usual there is no shortage of tasks lined up for the trailer so as soon as decent spring weather arrived I started in on the spring replacement. Thinking I would save some hassle by hiring it done I took it over to a local shop. Once they measured the springs they didn't have a source for the correct size and referred me to a local parts store, we combed through the catalog for a half hour but couldn't find a match there either. I did order replacement bolts, u-bolts and such. The shop had recommended that since the old ones often need to be cut off anyway.
It took some searching but there was a place on Amazon, of course, with the right replacement springs. I also determined if the old hardware was going to be cut off anyway, I could do that myself and save a few bucks. Over the course of last week the new springs arrived with all of the hardware to springs and mounting hardware on both sides of the front axle. It was nice to look forward to the prospect of assembling the replacement springs over the weekend. I went out and made the last couple cuts taking the shackles off the equalizers. I knew the bushings on this old trailer were pretty played out but wasn't seeking perfection when I moved the equalizer to see how much play there was. My heart sank when I could move it up and down a good 2 inches, bonus carnage. I would not have the trailer back together this weekend.
So it was back online seeking out replacement equalizers and more shackles and more bolts and more bushings. I was able to find a kit that had the correct size for both equalizers, enough shackles and bolts to replace the hardware on the rear axle spring mounts. Greaseable "wet" bolts, enough to do the front and rear springs on both sides of both axles, the regular bolts bought the week before will just have to be extras for future use. By late this week I should have everything for the complete overhaul. More extensive than I intended but it forces me to do the job right with new bolts and bushings on every joint even on the "good" rear springs where I'm sure the bushings are wore out as well. I'm looking forward to a smooth pulling trailer without all the clunks and bangs and tires that wear a lot better the next time I replace them.
It was a beautiful day here so I took a couple hours to get ahead on the dirty work of cutting, grinding and torching the old bolts out of the way (all except the rear mounts of the rear axle). Once the latest shipment of parts is here I can start right in on the install.
The trailer in question a couple years ago with one of the many various loads it's hauled:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/ACWC_rutabegard_081320cFB.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1597467010)
The trailer with the front propped up to facilitate removal of the front axle springs. They are off and I'm about to get the last bit of front bolt out and then get the center bolt out of the equalizer:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/trailerspringreplace_051522.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1652671792)
This is the right hand side equalizer with all the play in it. Yes, I should have seen this years ago but with old iron I don't always go looking for trouble, need to know basis and all of that. The other side was not this bad but the bushing was gone and there was plenty of wear. It started with the broken springs but the result will be a much needed suspension refresh:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/equalizer_051522.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1652672224)
Wow! You got your money's worth out of that equalizer!!
mh
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25160/20220516_165849.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1652737237)
kiko, is that custom? Bet it'll buff right out!
I'm not sure how you do that?
Perhaps running in to something hard with the bucket tilted down?
Looks to me like with the SSQA on there has no physical stop so it over extended and crashed the ram into the loader arm bending it just a little then ...
wait, I see a physical stop but it does not contact it. When I tried putting another SSQA from a different Kubota on mine I had the same problem. I almost did the same thing before I realized what was happening.
Looks familiar. Many years ago I had a Farmall 340 that came with a home built loader. Shortly after getting it I tried tilting the bucket vertical on the cutting edge and using it like a bulldozer... and bent the front cylinder rams into a boomerang shape. ::)
The pin and bushing on that side is toast. That coupled with an over load likely caused it
Can happen if tilting the bucket all the way down and a bit further back, then back drag with that bucket.
Puts tremendous compression force on the tilt cylinders when fully extended and they can fold (bend) up like shown in the photo.
Here's an update on the trailer repair. The kit with the equalizers arrived in record time on Monday morning, days ahead of schedule. This allowed me to take a few steps each day and have it all put together by the weekend. For anyone who hasn't taken a careful look at double axle equalizers here is one of the new ones compared to the old above and below. Also the center bolt from the old and new, with so much wear I'm glad to have the new bolts as the greaseable version.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/NewOldEqualizers.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653194794)
Once the old hardware was cleared out of the way it was time to start the install. By reading some reviews online I was alerted to some of the struggles others had had in getting the new bolts seated all the way. The ridges just below the head apparently made it a pain to pound them in and seat them. Given what it took to get the old bolts out I was a believer. To make things a little easier on myself I put a slight taper on those ridges with the angle grinder before doing the install. I was pleased with the result, it still took a few good solid blows (using a short small piece of steel pipe to work around the grease zerks) from the mallet but nothing extreme and the bolt was locked in well while fastened in place.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/NewBoltTouchUp.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653194954)
The shopping and sourcing paid off and everything fit back together very well. One nice thing about doing it yourself is being able to take your time and be thorough including painting the pieces as they go together. The center bolt may have been a "universal" size for use with wider springs as well. When I installed the castle nut it went on beyond the hole for the cotter pin. That was a pretty easy fix however once I picked up a regular 3/4" nut and sliced it in two, the resulting halves put the castle nuts in the perfect position for the pins.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/NewEqualizer.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653195196)
I actually started to enjoy the process of getting all the new hardware installed, determining which component needed to be jacked in which direction to line up the springs and get the bolts threaded through. Even greasing all the new fittings was satisfying to see grease flow out to the ends of the bushings. I've had a long running hate-hate relationship with my grease guns. I lined them up and tried each one in turn with nothing but frustration, gave up on them all and drove straight to the auto parts store, returned with a new gun and grease. It took a bit to get it primed but once that was done it worked great. This view shows the new leaf on the right front axle, the rear leaves are the only pieces not replaced although they are getting new bolts and bushings.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/NewLeaf.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653195275)
With the tires back on the new stance provided evidence of how worn the old suspension was. Then it was on to rounding up all the scrap metal scattered around from the worn out pieces. Here is a good bit of it, the broken springs, bolts and equalizers. The rest will have to be gathered with the magnet.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/OldSuspension.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653195480)
You got yourself a new trailer.
Should be a lot quieter now.
Glad you caught it. Mine broke an equalizer in half there last year, snapped the axle to spring U bolts and swung an axle back to the spring mounts. A friend and young father was using it and didn't realize it had happened. Scared the heck out of me. We removed everything but the deck frame and put all new running gear under it. Check your trailers :)
Clutch pedal wont push in on the 2006 Mack. What should I expect to find when I take this apart?
If it is like my jeep the throwout bearing got stuck on the input shaft from the clutch dust buildup when the rear main seal was leaking.
took very little to break it free, but I decided to replace the clutch while I was in there.
Quote from: brianJ on May 23, 2022, 07:00:03 AM
Clutch pedal wont push in on the 2006 Mack. What should I expect to find when I take this apart?
That should have a dual disc pull clutch there is 2 disc's with a plate between them. It pulls the throw bearing. So it's nothing like a keep or light truck. That's if this is a class 8 truck. If it's a small imported Mack it may be different. There is a small cover on the clutch housing you can take off it's also where you grease the bearing
Avoided Carnage!
I converted a boat trailer to a flat bed hauler. Replaced the light weight axle with a 3,500# electric brake one. The entire original frame is structural steel so pretty stout. Added cross supports of structural steel C channel to flatten out the top. Did that about 10 years ago. I was loading my 7' FEL bucket for my Ford that I converted to a QA. Also a back plate for a set of forks to use on my Ford. Quite a bit of weight. Chaining and strapping it down, I was hooking near the rear shackle on the passenger side I see the upper bolt's nut is about half off! The other two look fine. So I check the drivers side. Front good, upper rear good, bottom (spring) MISSING! :o The rear of the leaf spring is riding on the C-channel frame. :-\ Probably why it has been squeaking... Off to the trailer shop tomorrow morning before I can haul up the hill!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34089/C54B69BC-6429-439D-9E37-D421D05CF8A8.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1654034414)
My favorite way to remove a broken bolt or grease fitting. Torx head socket tapped offending thingamajiga. Super tiny grease fitting broke in the new harvesting head, ratcheted it right out.
And they make 11mm sockets, so you can hammer them onto a rounded off 12mm :snowball:
Quote from: nativewolf on May 31, 2022, 06:01:40 PM
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34089/C54B69BC-6429-439D-9E37-D421D05CF8A8.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1654034414)
My favorite way to remove a broken bolt or grease fitting. Torx head socket tapped offending thingamajiga. Super tiny grease fitting broke in the new harvesting head, ratcheted it right out.
ok this worked this time. should it be done no. and here is why. lets say you have a broken bolt you drill a hole now you pound that harbor freight torx bit in. because its not tapered you gotta really drive it in. now what happens if the bolt will not turn how do you get the torx bit out. with a real ezout it only grips one way. but someone will see this and try it on lets say a broken bolt in a motor thats hard to get at break that torx bit that went from a $50 repair to ?? use the right tool do it right the first time
A set of left handed drill bits are my best friend for removing broke but not super stuck bolts and such. Often the drill will hook it and back the bolt out. If it doesn't you have a hole drilled to stick an ez-out into.
Those left handed drill bits are awesome
I have had lots of success grinding a regular drill bit backwards, as if it was left handed, then spinning it backwards with the drill. It's the cutting surfaces that matter, the "reverse" flutes don't seem to matter much. Chip clearance is poor, but normally I only need to drill in about 1/4" before the bit grabs and spins the broken bolt out. Going slow with lots of pressure works best.
I've drilled a hole and hammered in a file tang and gotten a few out that way.
I do know the smell of smoking bluecreeper :D
Well the story goes AC went out in this skidder. Wore out Timberjack. So the boys figured they'd just ratchet strap the doors open and roll with it. Why not just take the doors off you say? Good question, probably didn't want to go through all that effort. Anyways things were going fine until they drove down in a ditch to get a drag and the front tire caught the edge of the door. Ain't nothin that a torch and sledge hammer can't fix
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56926/IMG_20220603_055045.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654249900)
Next up we have an almost full fuel tank on a Peterbilt that got punctured by a broken drive shaft in the middle of 95 just south of DC. Hazmat team showed up. Truck got towed. Priceyyyyyy
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56926/Snapchat-1290220333.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654250038)
Andddd this one happened a few months ago. Battery cables on chipper got caught on mud flap of truck and ripped out, caused the starter to catch fire and burned up the wiring harness. Cost 15k in damages. 5th wheel wouldn't slide back any further than where it was, probably should have taken the flaps off or moved it with another truck
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56926/Screenshot_20220326-124314_Snapchat.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654250306)
Bonus round. I wasn't directly involved in the last 3 incidents, just work at the place they happened at. This one however was fully my fault. Cutting a tree with a top lodged in it. Should have waited for the skidder to come push it, but being dumb and reckless I thought I could get it to fall without help. Well it fell alright, right on top of me. Close call, lesson learned, no concussion, 14 stitches,
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56926/20220419_200245.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1654250735)
quite a scar and a story to tell. God is real and protected me
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@Coopthecutter (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=46926) jeeeeezum! Thats a heck of a trail of carnage. Glad you are ok in the end! Hard way to learn a lesson. You are more valuable then any tree! Be safe sir
Them last two pictures are not good to look at!!
Glad you are OK.
Wow! Battle tested and still kicking! You deserve a few good days after that whirlwind of problems!
Oh yuck!! Good thing that little angel on your shoulder kept it from going through your noggin...That rivals some of Magic Man's carnage pictures... steve_smiley
So I have been sitting on an NV4500 and an Atlas II for many many many many (too many) years. I finally decided it was time to put the jeep into surgery. I want to get my jeep streetable again to enjoy topless weather with the kids. And hopefully take them rockcrawling.
I have not had fifth gear for many many many (seeing a pattern?) years.
So I finally decided it was time.
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Managed to get old transmission and transfer case out with no issues. As I started looking at installing the 4500 I noticed a lot of little things that were about to be very annoying. And probably get quite pricey. Just the 2 bearings I needed were going to be $100.
So I did what any reasonable person would do. I put off doing anything and went and got a pizza :)
After enjoying the pizza I went to the parts store and started doing some research. Anytime you mix and match parts it can be quite involved.
After all the parts research and deciding what parts to attempt to use I started wondering if the Atlas would fit on the AX-15. Sure enough it fits. So now I think I am just going to ditch the NV4500 idea and stick with my stock transmission.
Well Since I was missing 5th gear for so long I was hoping it was something as simple as a broken clip. Unfortunately after closer examination.....
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And that's only one small section I took the picture of....
So, as usual. a simple project turns into a very big one.... Oh well J.E.E.P. Just Empty Every Pocket :)
I had a 4500 that did the same thing as what I think I see there. As the bearings on that countershaft wear, it increases the runout on the shaft. That runout puts pressure on the retaining clip on the end of the shaft, eventually causing it to pop off. That let's the geared pop loose and things go bad from there.
When I got the NV4500 it had no fifth gear either. That was an easy fix though. The fifth gear nut had backed off. I had to get a new nut because all of the threads were smoothed out from spinning on the shaft.
That damage in the pic above is my AX-15.
Gotcha. That backed off nut was what I was hoping for on mine, but it was not to be😂
Yea, I did some research and I saw broke snap rings. nobody mentioned geriatric tranny with missing teeth :)
Poor tranny has 180k hard rockcrawling miles on it.
Quote from: snowstorm on May 23, 2022, 09:34:05 AM
Quote from: brianJ on May 23, 2022, 07:00:03 AM
Clutch pedal wont push in on the 2006 Mack. What should I expect to find when I take this apart?
That should have a dual disc pull clutch there is 2 disc's with a plate between them. It pulls the throw bearing. So it's nothing like a keep or light truck. That's if this is a class 8 truck. If it's a small imported Mack it may be different. There is a small cover on the clutch housing you can take off it's also where you grease the bearing
Indeed it is a dual disc pull clutch. The throw out bearing was trash. Likely caused by the rods and bushings for the throw out "fork" were worn badly and thus putting an uneven load on the bearing.
if there is any wear on the impute shaft of the trans replace it. and dont forget a new clutch brake
A couple weeks ago I headed into the woods to mow a woods road which has gotten real brushy. One section has a fairly steep little hill. I'm mowing along (4-6 foot high saplings and briars) with a 6' flail mower when the mower bangs, rattles, squeals and stalls the belt. Thought I trapped a big stone in it. Put the brake on, hop off, and down the hill I see my helmet. Thinking "Lucky I stopped or I would have mowed my helmet". Run down and get it, walk back up to tractor...and my Husky 460 was not in the bucket:( Bucket had drifted down and when going down the hill it slid out...ouch:(
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Oh dear, that looks like a pretty thorough trashing😬
Chainsaw vs Flail mower.
What a mess!
Feeling your pain . . .
Flail mower 1, chainsaw o.
Jeff Spicoli:
Relax, alright? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
Oops
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Almost empty at least and didn't get the brand new jug of bar oil...
Should have got the bar oil instead. Would have been cheaper. :(
I don't like those spouts anyway :).
Actually that's the only good one I've come across of the "CARB compliant" types. I actually prefer them above regular ones, they are high quality and work well. I think Fill-rite is the brand name. Any other CARB type, I wish would get ran over😊
I really do not like this thread!!!
up next, hydraulic hose on the curl ram of the tractor. Just enough of a hole it makes a puddle in the shop. New ones needs a degree end that is on 2-3 week backorder. Poop!
when I went to the parts store to get that figured out tranny on truck was not playing nice. I got to parts store to find a puddle of tranny fluid under the cooler on the truck. Guess I finally know why the tailgate has a thin layer of oil on it and what that tiny drips were under the front.
Just so you all know Ford in their infinite wisdom decided not to put a dipstick tube on the F-150. That means no way to check the fluid and no way to add fluid. Talk about boning you into the service department!!
At least I figured this out before the 4 hour drive to boonville this weekend. Looks like we take the toyota.
There is a place to check the oil in the trans of your f150. Passenger side, just above the oil pan, front corner. Oh ya, it needs to be hot to get a good reading and you guessed it.... The exhaust pipe is right next to it!
mh
Yea, the guy at the shop told me about that. and also the nice hot exhaust :)
Thanks moosehunter.
Quote from: Don P on July 17, 2022, 07:57:38 AM
I don't like those spouts anyway :).
When I buy a plastic gas can the cap/spout gets thrown away. I have saved every coarse threaded cap I can find to replace that junk that only lets water in.
Actually I like (d) that little push button can so much it has a twin, they are my "mixed gas end use dispensers" because I like how much less I overflow the tanks on saws and other things. They are small, light and pretty well sealed for packing in the woods by wheels or foot. They do not balance a gallon jug of bar oil well when strung on a rope because of the different rate of use, quart or two MSR bottles of oil is better. Please don't look at my 5gal can spouts and vents!
Moodnacreek, the spout is horizontal not at a vertical angle so no water gets in
I guess its been about 3 weeks since the tree jumped in front of the Silverado. I drug a Yukon out of its final resting place at a friends and made a Yukarado. It finally fired up last night and I drove it around here today. The ranger isfair for what it is but it seems like I missed the full size pick em up for something about daily. It was good to hear the small block cough, fire and settle in. Oh, after 2 rounds of shimming to unbind the new chinee starter ::). I dropped that tiny tickler nut in the mud, never to be seen again, yup. metric :-X. I guess the thump was hard enough the old starter took a dive.
I had to steal the front 8" or so of the Yukon frame and most of the front clip. The doors were already sagging on the Silverado with new pins and bushings and after the wreck the pillar moved some more. The driver's door was a good inch below the latch pin and I had to really lift it to close for the trip home. I did some cyphering with the distance between hinge pins and the distance to the latch pin vs how much I needed to lift the door, cut the upper hinge, moved it forward a plump quarter inch ("Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with a crayon and cut it with an axe"). Got lucky and the door closes nice, I need to steal the yukon latch guts, mine got hammered as the door sagged. The best part of a day sorting out the front wiring and soldering the yukon lights on to the chevy. To get everything to plane in I lowered the front radiator mounts, seemed like a plan. Till I tried to mount the bumper which is indexed off the frame. I'll need to cut and lower the bumper brackets. Although, I decommissioned the AC but the pump is fine. I was wondering if the pump with AC clutch and a pipe bumper as an air tank, if it would make air pressure.
Anyway, I had to replace the front brake line and ended up with a coupling behind and under the radiator running on its support frame. All bled and seemed good, till the brake pedal faded on our long downhill drive. No problem, the rears were there. With my wife on the pedal I found that coupling leaking and failed to tighten my way out of the problem, once again proving I am mightier than tiny brass fittings ;D. Need to pick up some more and try again tomorrow. And then I saw water on the fan shroud, the yukon radiator is oozing so I'll need to replace that. The finish is color correct in a tasteful heavy orange peel that looks sweet at about 55. All we lack is finishing. I think I'll be able to take the skidsteer back to work next week.
I bought a Euro Husqvarna gas/oil can, that I carry on the rare occasion I am actually falling timber. It carries about a gallon of "petrol" and half that of bar oil, and has a place to store a scrench and a spare chain if you are so inclined. It works well.
wow, my name has shown up in this thread to much recently.
Up next. one drive belt for one of my favorite tools in the shop.
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Yeah, a bit tricky on a series II, ain't it?
once I figured out the 2 bolts that needed to be removed it was actually pretty easy. but I will update that when I try to put it back together. something tells me its going to be a challenge.
Somehow, I had the right length and thread metric bolts in stock to compress the drive sheaves. That sure made it a lot easier.
Metric? So that must be a Jet or equivalent? Not a repainted Bridgeport?
Supermax. Not just Max, but Supermax :)
Made in Tiawan. Been a very good machine for me.
wow, I think that belt has been bad for a long time. After getting the new one in and everything put back together, I started it up, the mill has never been that quiet.
I did find a random jam nut inside when I took the cover off. No idea what it goes to, but I doubt it is the mill. No idea how it got in there.
All good when I headed out for the morning dog walk. Heard something come down and got back to this
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Was that a dead tree? And the ladder attached after it fell or a rigging to tie it up so you could remove it?
Bummer to mess up the building that way.
Live tree. Limbed and topped it with a pole saw before I got around to taking photos. The thing that looks like a ladder is a couple of cross braced 4x4's ratchet strapped on to the log to support the top while I lowered it down
Definitely bet that was a shocker when you seen that! Hope you get things fixed up!
Even though it was a live tree, it may not have been a healthy tree. Check when you cut it where it broke at the stump. In storm damage trees they are often only have solid wood just under the bark (sapwood) and decay/rot in the center (heartwood).
@johndozer (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=49305)
Time to do a small clear cut around the houses and buildings?
Much of the pine around here is prone to some kind of rot as was this one. Look good on the outside but not so much on the inside. Probably didn't help hat there was an assortment of 5 inch spikes and old lag bolt/gate hinges in this one. She who must be obeyed and myself had recently discussed a bit of a logging program in the yard. Pretty much everything in the yard presents multiple hazards and will likely need to be winched or pushed over to avoid some kind of collateral damage
Not much carnage, but certainly a hmmm moment.
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Got to have a little excitement 😂
Quote from: Walnut Beast on November 03, 2022, 08:00:45 PM
Got to have a little excitement 😂
Ha ha, I never had it that far over myself. The boy that tops for me has been easing into running it. Today he got a lesson. Most importantly he was fine. The cab never touched the ground.
It's way easier to inspect the undercarriage like that and no chance of anything leaking on you either.
Don't tell me. He wants to be a monster truck driver, right?
That's a headknocker there glad he's okay. Did something stop it from going all the way or is the picture as it was being brought back to sunnyside up? It looks like it could have gone further.
Quote from: newoodguy78 on November 04, 2022, 03:41:57 PM
That's a headknocker there glad he's okay. Did something stop it from going all the way or is the picture as it was being brought back to sunnyside up? It looks like it could have gone further.
Yea, the tree that took it over also stopped it from going all the way over. It hooked on the top of the tower.
Run a rubber tire buncher long enough and eventually you will lay it over. Haha
I've heard that multiple times.
Be a good time to clean the belly pans... ;D
I'm not an equipment guy, so I'd like to know how one of those tips over. Looks like relatively flat ground. My best guess is being a buncher you're running tree length and a log got caught between bumper trees on a turn.
I've also heard it said, that you're not running a rubber tire buncher if you don't lay it over once in a while. Strap in and get ready for the rodeo😊
Otis, they tip over because they really only have stability forward and backward, but not side to side. If you cut a tree with a big heavy top that is leaning to one side or the other, they can get hung up in the tower and take you over. The tower is designed to release the tree straight forward, and there are fixed arms that form a pocket for the tree to rest in until you are ready to dump it. If the tree is leaning hard to the side, it will take you over sideways before you can get it to dump out the front.
A rubber tire buncher works by driving straight into the tree, cutting and grabbing it at once, and then backing up and turning about 45° and dumping the tree. They'll dump more in with that same tree until they have a "bunch" for the skidder to grab. Anyways, a lot of times guys tip over when backing up and turning to dump the tree. You lose stability when turning, and it also seems like that's when you also back over that high stump you should've cut lower. Yee-haw!😂
In the '80's Bobcat and Barko made a massive skid steer with a buncher head. Operators told me tipping them over once a day was a normal day😁
Always wondered how one of those old Bell 3 wheel fellers would compare to a 4 wheel machine, would think the CG would be lower.
Do a YouTube search, there are some old promotional videos Bell did with them. They are very impressive for the timber they can put down with a skilled operator.
Watched a couple vids, definitely a nimble machine that could cut a lot of timber. One of the longtime loggers said it took nothing to turn one over, said he flipped one 3 times in one day. :o
If they had a fixed head, I can see where they would be easy to lay over. Seems like it would be much more difficult to do with a dangle head.
Thanks for the explanation. For some reason I was thinking grapple skidder not feller buncher. I guess I've never seen the underside of either one. I can see how that could be sketchy.
He pretty much released the tree without laying the head out any at all.....second complication was that the top was caught in another and it had nowhere to go but to the right. For the machine it was pretty well at the he upper end of it's radius ability also.
I really hate contributing to this thread.
So today I am heading down the road in my 15 f-150. just coasting down a long hill when I notice something didn't seem right. I look at the dash and it shows I was in third gear. I was doing about 65mph. engine RPM's were normal. So I tapped the throttle and the rpm's redlined and the shift indicator showed it shifting all the way to 6th gear rapidly. Still felt nothing. I ended up shutting truck of then restarting it to get the rpm's back down.
I put it back in drive and hit the throttle and it rapidly shifted through the gears again. The rpm's were a little more tame this time.
I ended up on the side of the road with no forward or reverse gears. I ended up crawling around under the truck, no leaks no damage never felt anything let go. Was as simple as someone unplugging the toaster.
Had it towed to the local shop and tech asked if it had park or if it just wasn't rolling. Lucky me the answer was it just was not rolling. Super lucky since I was laying under it between the tires. that could have been bad.
tried 4wd no movement 2wd no movement. unloading off the flatbed it was in park and rolled like it was in neutral.
no idea what failed but it seems to be something mechanical between tranny and tcase.
Quick shot, right from the hip with my brain barely clearing the holster I am going to guess it's a computer issue. Best of luck. Normally electronics would be much cheaper than mechanical, right? But in today's age, it's a toss up, right?
Really, best of luck, this is painful, I know.
I dunno, we checked all the codes. no codes at all. I was thinking it was a sensor but it seemed that the trans would engage run through the gears and when the tech put it in park you could hear it skipping past the park pawl till it slammed into park.
Really acts mechanical. Thinking sheared input shaft for tcase? maybe output from tranny? I have no idea. rear driveshaft does not spin.
2015 seems a few score early for that to be happening. I think it's really neat, all this new technology coming out in vehicles, I'm super excited to see when someone will actually get it right, but not holding my breath. I had a new 2017 Navigator for a long weekend with a couple thousand miles on it and it just shut off driving down the highway at a steady 73mph. Pulled off, turned it off then back on and it was fine the rest of the trip and the drive home. Reliability trumps "features" 100 times out of 100 for me.
so I got a call from the technician today. He pulled the drain plug and tcase was empty. only thing that came out was liquid metal. I am just a little angry at that because the last time I had it in the dealer I told them it was leaking and I wanted them to take a look at it. They said its not leaking and is full. somehow in 4000 miles the case went from full to empty without a drop left under the truck.
So the dealer flat out lied to me and now I sit here without a truck. Shop wants $1100 to get me a junkyard one and swap it in. I think I need to have a chat with the dealer.
I did actually witness the liquid metal and even looked in the case with my inspection camera. It has been dry for a very long time.
I'm sorry to hear that, it's a little on ford and A LOT on the dealer that lied to you. $1100 seems a bit steep for a used transfer case and installation. Would you care to share the name of the dealership so others might be spared the same fate?
Not sure what a junkyard tcase goes for these days. But a few months back I pulled one out of an F-150 and replaced it with a customer supplied replacement in about 2.5 hours....
I've been charging $100 per hour plus shop supplies. I'd have to look back but I'm guessing the bill was around 300 bucks, plus whatever the tcase cost the customer.
One good thing about F 150's is the they built so many, I would think used parts should be easy to find.
Never trust a dealer. I always check stuff like that myself.
They call them technicians, today all they're good for is to swap out parts and charge you a lot of $$$$$.
No more mechanics. I hope things work out for you, good luck.
I am going to hold off on the dealer name and hope they treat me right. If they do not, I will share the name.
The shop I am at can get me a used tcase with 1 year warranty for 575 and they are going by book time to change it which is 4 hours at 105/hr. plus I live in an area that uses straight road salt, so I am expecting the full 4 hours to change it. Honestly, I thought 1100 was a pretty fair price for everything.
I need to call the dealer today and have a chat with them. unfortunately I am the nice guy and we all know where those guys finish. I am really hoping the dealer will actually work with me. Unfortunately, I am expecting them to tell me its not their problem.
I love this truck but it has had 4 catastrophic failures that have left me stranded at only 104k miles. I have a 97 wrangler that has 180k hard miles on it that has never left me stranded.
If it was the Jeep it would have broke wheels up on a boulder runnin' aired down beadlocker baja's rock crawlin'. ;D
Thats for sure :).
The only reason I even am getting the dealer involved is the fact they lied to me. otherwise, I would just swallow it and move on.
If the book says 4 hours they should be able to do it in 2. I also live in the salt belt and did one myself in 2.5 hours (and I'm no organized tech so I have to hunt down tools all the time hahaha).
yea, I understand completely. That was a quote they gave me so we will see what the actual cost ends up. or if the ford dealer will be willing to work with me.
so unfortunately, the ford dealer was not able to work with me. He basically told me that ford will not even take their calls if the vehicle is over 5 years or 60k miles.
The service manager was very nice though and wanted to help but was not able to give me a new case. so he offered me new ford case for $1075 when normal price was $1800. They actually had one in stock. I ended up deciding to go with the junkyard case for $575 because I am just not in a financial position to get the new one. If I was working I would have bought the new one.
The dealer was Van Bortel Ford in east rochester ny. the lies about the tcase not leaking is the only bad service I have had from them. So from now on if I get any work done I will double check everything.
All the dealers around here for bills they charge what ever the parts cost is what the time cost. I won't even deal with dealers. I have a couple of private garages that I use if I can't do it myself.
I worked on cars for plenty of years. I will only do stuff I want to do unless its my jeep then I do everything. Right now the transmission is in pieces on the bench.
My favorite way to work on cars is by signing the check.
Most shops bill by the hours listed in their computer. If it takes less (often does) the shop wins, if they run into issues (rusted bolts, seized parts, etc) and it takes longer then the shop loses out.
I just charge the hourly rate that it actually takes me though I dont work on many passenger vehicles for people other than friends and family. I prefer working on heavy equipment any day of the week.
Having a lift in a heated shop is the only way for me to work on things anymore. Spent lots of my teenage years bench pressing transmissions in a gravel driveway, or swapping broken axle shafts in the middle of the woods that my body doesn't like that much anymore. Lol
That's the only way I work on stuff now.
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My 06 the last of the 5 speeds.
I use to get 2-3 trucks, some for just hauling them off or almost nothing and make one. ::)
Boy that took some late nights and weekends. That was when I had time and no money.
And yes a gravel driveway too.
I'm 47 and still working on a gravel driveway. I must've made some poor life decisions🤔 I actually like it when the ground freezes, it's much smoother and a toboggan makes a good creeper😁
I'm 47 and take my stuff in to get fixed. I had plenty of "fun" crawling on my back trying to fix stuff when I was younger. The dealer has a 50 point checklist they go through each time. They can spot or fix problems up on the lift in their heated garage, 1000 piece tool cart, and scan tools way easier than I can laying in the snow with wrench and a flashlight. Some easy stuff I will do, but I've learned the hard way a 15 minute job is only 1 broken bolt away from a 3 day ordeal.
I do have a small ghetto concrete slab with large pieces of slate set into the concrete. was just a nice patio but it has turned into the place I work on stuff. Not ideal by any means and currently there is 4" of snow covering it and my jeep that has no transmission in it.
One day I will have a shop with enough space for a lift. But even after that point not sure if I will get one. If I were to get one I would want it inset into the floor and raise up. then I would not lose any space.
I have always thought about having the lift then making tables I can put on the arms and have an adjustable work bench. Be nice for some big welding jobs.
I have my wife take her newer vehicle in for everything. My old woods rigs are so patched together I'm ashamed to bring those into a real shop🤦♂️😂
I have a steel plate I put on the lift arms and use it for my welding table. Can lower it to the ground to put heavy stuff on then raise it to whatever height I want for working. Works slick.
I have delusions of grandeur to make a bunch of scissor tables for my shop for just such a purpose. especially after the last sawmill build. using a highlift and c-clamps to hold it up was scary.
Carnage... Prevention!
Getting closer to test firing 4-53 that has been sitting for 20yrs.
Got the E flap cable nice and smooth, replaced broken fuel shutoff and spent a bit this morning with a can of PB and got the rack unstuck and working smooth as silk
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If I would have fired it up without checking and fixing this stuff it would have been a wild ride air_plane
I hear the rack mentioned on Detroits all the time, but I've never been inside one so I don't understand what it is. Detroit 2 strokes have unit injectors, right?
I might not know or use all the right terms, this is my second vacation to the beautiful motor city. That large tube running top to bottom on right side of the head is connected to the governor and also to each injector via a push rod type kerjigger. I am calling the whole apparatus "The Rack" as I have heard it used.
Detroits (sample size:2, 53 series and 71 series) go to full fuel when shut down. That means the next time you crank it is at full fuel setting. If say The Rack is stuck at full fuel as it was here and will not move it can lead to a runaway condition which there are neat youtube vids and scary campfire stories about.
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Governor in bottom right.
I did not have to do anything except spray penetrating oil, wait 10min and wiggle. Messing with anything in here comes with disclaimers about reading the service manual! And likely "timing the injectors/timing the rack" Simple inside but there is a lot to be screwed up and cause future carnage for the thread
Thanks mudfarmer, that's a good description. It's actually pretty similar to my Lombardini diesel, which also has unit injectors. The Lombardini has an overhead cam and iirc there are rockers that operate plungers on the injectors. Anyways, just trying to relate it to what I see in the Detroit because even though I've broken a lot of stuff, that Lombardini is the only diesel I've really been inside😁
I have a Detroit 3-35 powered skidder I haven't fired up in 2 years and I intend to have a rag handy to stuff the intake in case of a runaway. It doesn't have an emergency shut off🤷♂️
Quote from: Peter Drouin on November 17, 2022, 08:42:01 PM
That's the only way I work on stuff now.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22511/IMG_0034_28129.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1659491549)
My 06 the last of the 5 speeds.
I'm just in awe of the shop construction. Beautiful building
I borrowed and blew a 6v-71 in a big vibratory roller and rebuilt it a couple years ago. Governor is the most difficult and critical component. Download a manual. When you test it, per the manual, have a piece of plywood to block the air intake in case of runaway. Thick plywood; those roots blowers can suck real hard.
Quote from: barbender on November 18, 2022, 11:41:38 AM
I have my wife take her newer vehicle in for everything. My old woods rigs are so patched together I'm ashamed to bring those into a real shop🤦♂️😂
well, the new tech would prob. ask where to plug the laptop in. :P :)
Quote from: kanoak on November 27, 2022, 11:09:53 PM
I borrowed and blew a 6v-71 in a big vibratory roller and rebuilt it a couple years ago. Governor is the most difficult and critical component. Download a manual. When you test it, per the manual, have a piece of plywood to block the air intake in case of runaway. Thick plywood; those roots blowers can suck real hard.
+1 to plywood instead of a rag. The rag might stop the engine after it's sucked into the blower, chopped up, then the burned swarf hangs the exhaust valves open enough to prevent adequate compression for combustion. The chances of serious damage are real, the chance of having to tear apart the engine to clean out the rag bits are 100%.
I should know better. My Dad told me a story that when he was a teen, he was riding a borrowed snowmobile. I don't remember what brand, but it had the carb open with no intake under the handlebars. Well he was wearing a scarf, he said he felt a tug and then the machine came to a sudden stop. Yep sucked his scarf right up and locked up the engine😳 I'll have plywood handy instead😁
About 1959 a logger friend had a 440 JD dozer with a 353 Detroit. It had an oil bath air cleaner. When crawling up a very steep hill, oil from the air cleaner was sucked into the air intake and things went wild. The screaming didn't last long enough to blow the engine. I suppose there is a reason not to overfill!!!!🤪
OK, I don't think I have ever posted in this thread and really this post might fit better in the Sawmilling section, BUT I think the carnage part is more than the sawmill part.
I also want to be clear that "I" as in me, myself, did not do this, nor was I present when it was done. However this is the very mill I run and currently I have more hours on it than the mill owner. He let me know last week that the debarker on the mill was, um....down... kind of 'down hard'. It seems the head dropped again and caught the end of the log, then the debarker 'fell off'.
Yeah, he said 'fell off'. I finally got a chance to see it today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230210_100600529_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1676066262)
Now I realize it may take a minute to wrap your brain around what you are seeing in that photo, maybe zooming in will help, maybe not. Take your time. Maybe a slightly different angle will help?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230210_100524510_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1676066257)
OK, maybe some words. The thing broke off and was hanging by the wires, so the boss lifted it up on top of the main arm and used a bungee to temporarily hold it in place. So where the shaft comes down to hold the swing arm it is welded between the shaft and arm. That weld broke, we believe because there have been several downward crashes caused by a controller error allowing or sending the head to the bottom of the stroke without reason and sometimes the debarker would take the weight of the blow. The controller just displays 'ERROR' which is helpful to know. ;D It's happened to me twice and the the owner, catastrophically, several times. Once I could do nothing, the second time I caught it and hit enough levers and switches to stop it before it hit anything. I still don't know how I did that. I wish I did. But after the second time I never trusted it and would not go into 'blow and go mode', I would make one directional move at a time and when that move completed I would make the next move. A few seconds slower, but at least I had no more issues and would be ready if it dropped on me again. The boss, on the other hand is always in 'blow and go mode' and things happened too fast.
So here is the shaft sticking down from the swing drive:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230210_100544103_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1676066944)
And here is the corresponding hole in the swing arm to which said shaft should be attached:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20230210_100549592_HDR.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1676067040)
Because of all the documented crash histories with this, WM is covering the parts cost. But guess who gets to do the work? ;D I sure hope it's not too cold when these parts come, it looks like a long day to fix this. Time to read the manual again. :D
BTW, did I mention that "I" did NOT do this? I just want to be clear.
That's a nasty turn of events.
I've ordered some WM parts, which took about eight weeks to be delivered, so you might be in a t-shirt by the time the repairs come up on the 'today' list.
If this drama has been going on for a while and is unpredictable, maybe the more important issue is the Setworks. Have you had a call with the gurus on tech support in Indianapolis?
UM yeah, but not very encouraging. The last guy said "Well, it's a machine and has software and none of that stuff is fool proof or perfect, these things will happen. Nothing you can do about it." After all my time designing machines and fixing issues in my designs for clients, you can guess that didn't sit too well with me since I knew this was not an isolated event with us, many have had this head drift. I attributed that conversation to tech with low hours on him and let it go. It's not the company's fault, I know that, it's the failure of the folks they have hired to follow through and diagnose these problems to a final solution. I tilted at windmills for decades and I am done with that, I just take care of my little world now.
edit to add: I sure hope those parts don't take 6 weeks (Or maybe I do? :D) Also, the root cause is 'likely' the transducer as derived form collecting info from other members here on the FF, which remains the best source of anecdotal information I have yet to see. We still have outstanding mill orders, which is why the boss was milling while I, being an old man, opted not to work in that weather. ;D
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on February 10, 2023, 05:22:31 PM
Because of all the documented crash histories with this, WM is covering the parts cost. But guess who gets to do the work? ;D
I would hope whichever tech Wood-Mizer sends out would be after multiple documented failures.
I too have had to design a machine or two and put my stamp on it, building it fail safe has always been top priority, it would be nice if these were as well.
WM is not sending a tech by any means. In fact it appears we can't even get a scheduled service loop call this year. Apparently they have stopped doing that? We are none to happy about that. I had been planning and looking forward to that for many months now, it's needed. They want us to bring the mill to them and leave it for a while, then drive back and get it. For a stationary mill, it's a lot of work for us just to get it on the road again. The there is the 6 hour round trip, 2 times.
Likely being very short of help to do it all. But maybe a good paying tech job for OGH ??
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on February 10, 2023, 08:08:29 PMIn fact it appears we can't even get a scheduled service loop call this year.
The service loops here have never been annual. 2-3 year rotation. I believe that this year the loop will be in the SE.
Sadly since we how have a Wood-Mizer dealer in Mississippi, we are no longer on the service loop.
Well the thought that occurred to me was that a person buys a certain brand of machine based on the available service. When the purchase is made and that service drops off (or stops) it can put a sour taste in a man's throat. That's all I got to say about that. This Mill had needed complete going over since bought and it is concerning to know that we are left hanging with only phone support, which also is not what it once was. Since we don't have cell service at the mill it can make for long days and very slow work driving back and forth to a phone.
EDIT: PLEASE READ MY CORRECTIONS BELOW IN POST 793 TO SOME OF THE STATEMENTS IN THIS POST.
Tom as I mentioned above, the loops here have never been annual. I got my first service in 2002 and about every 3 years since then.
As with everything else, the company has to make a profit with the loops or they could not provide them. During the signup period I suspect that if they did not get enough signers, that particular loop would be abandoned for that term. I do not see how we could expect any otherwise.
Original Woodmizers were shipped to Africa for use in the jungles.. just sayin... ::)
Timberking is all over the world
Lynn, that's a good point, but the message that was relayed to me was "We aren't doing that anymore." Not a reference to loop rotations at all. I will see if I can get clarification on that because it's a good point, but waiting another year is gonna be rough.
I have been pushing for a visit for a year now and we tried to get a service loop call when issues were building up, around June. They said "call us back in February, that's when we set up the schedule. We called on Feb. 1st and now they tell us this. I get it, they have to make money, nobody denies that. We aren't asking for a warranty call or special treatment. In our stable we have the LT50, an LX25 with 40' of track, an RS-2, and a Slabmizer. I would think that might warrant some help when we ask for it, especially when we are talking to them about a 4 sided planer for this year.
In my past life, when I had to call in an outside tech for specific help I generally paid $1,000 bucks a day plus travel expenses (likely a lot more now) for that help and if the tech knew his business it was well worth it.
Based on all the hype I have read about how comprehensive and thorough these service loop calls can be I was looking forward to it a great deal and planning on it to get us back up to snuff. Now they tell us we are on our own and that is a tough pill to swallow. But I will adjust, I just have to change my attitude and own it. I will say my tone in our phone conversations will likely change though.
I am not dumping on them. They have to run their business to make a profit, I get it. I'm just not too happy holding the bag here.
I am unhappy that Mississippi is no longer on the service loop.
The 2023 Field Service Schedule shows "Feb-March Louisiana, Texas".
Yeah I just checked that. It seems those are the only two states getting a service loop in the country? Maybe you can arrange a portable job in LA to intersect the loop? :D
Actually I did intersect the service loop for my last field service two years ago. smiley_lipsrsealed
The Mississippi Wood-Mizer Service Center is 150 miles so I would be $$ ahead just taking it there. At this time I have no known issues so I'm good.
OK, just wanted to jump in and correct some misinformation I posted previously. It seems our WM dealer is changing to every other year loops in our section of their territory. We didn't get a loop through here last year, and they won't have one this year, but maybe next year. So the statement I made about them not doing service loops was completely wrong and I wanted to clear that up.
It still does not make us happy, but it's better than it might have been. Bringing the mill to them is not something I really want to consider because of the cost.
🤦♂️ other than ordering blades from WM a new mill from them wasn't even discussed. Cooks has been decent, but ultimately had that Timberbuddy built because the Amish guy is a 3hr van ride away. I had someone from Bells bring me parts over on a Saturday night in a snowstorm to Watertown to keep a processor running, hear stories about support like that and you wanna find a diff color paint to run.
Timberking is absolutely incredible in service and parts. They go over and beyond expectations. Never had a bit of trouble with the Timberking mill. Except a fuel solenoid that was over nighted and a connection on the electric choke from the engine manufacturer that wasn't hooked up properly that was part of the remote start. That we couldn't trouble shoot. They came and picked the mill up fixed it and double checked everything out and we went 175 miles and had a nice lunch there and picked it up. No charge for anything! All the hydraulics on the mill never had one leak anywhere ever. Great mill and great company. They treat you like family and you feel like it. There are Timberking mills all over the world in the toughest conditions with thousands of hours also. And if anybody thinks a Timberking doesn't hold it's value compared to other makes is dead wrong. I sold my mill in one day for thousands more than when I got it. My new Diesel mill will be a fairly easy decision.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32746/IMG_20230213_171613.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1676371532)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32746/IMG_20230214_085415.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1676371574)
Oops!
Clark Ranger ??
Yes. 666.
I have seen a few older 664 s up here with the housing snapped off like that.
The ones I have seen have been welded back together It was a weak spot new additions came with heavier housings'
Al
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63999/2152A6B7-526D-4855-8CE8-B15650348823.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1677345102)I had a bad case of the Mondays...
Steadfast, What is it that you rolled? Hope all is well?
I rolled my dozer once and that was enough, came out mad and that was it. Thanks to a Rops. Pushing a tree over and the root ball tipped me.
I rolled the td7 dozer. A branch slid me sideways enough over a little drop and tipped me. I was totally fine, albeit a bit shook up. My first thought after getting out of the machine was "well, I guess I'm buying lunch." We flipped it back over with a skidder and got back to moving wood.
"rolled" or just tipped?
Maybe semantics, but to me there is big difference between "rolled" and tipped. Maybe I am thinking "rolled over" when reading rolled.
Neither are a "good" day. ;D
Cannot see much in the photo posted.
Quote from: steadfast on February 25, 2023, 02:32:23 PMWe flipped it back over with a skidder and got back to moving wood.
Keep ona rollin!
Glad your here to the story, it'll be funny tomorrow
We repacked the blade tilt and one of the angle cylinders yesterday on the TD8E dozer, we've now redone all the cylinders up front. The first one twice, I bought an ebay seal kit and learned my lesson ::). I'm not entirely sure those weren't OE seals from the 80's in the glands yesterday, but they came out in pieces, amazing they held at all. We pulled one of the rear pair of cylinders to the rake yesterday, I've had that chained up for over a year. Uhh since I had to use everything she had to break mud suction and crib the machine outta a baaad place :D. Every new machine has a steep learning curve for awhile. We've been unable to find the seal kit for them so off to the shop and maybe they can find something. Seems like several of you are running this stuff, this one is a Dresser which went to Komatsu. Regionally they were sold to a new outfit a year or so ago and parts support is, well, this machine is older than they are. Where are y'all getting seals and parts and where are the boneyards, I'd love to find a winch and scrap/trade the rake in?
For Komatsu parts if i can't find it aftermarket i call up Roland Machinery. They are not the best dealer IME but they are willing to search for old parts usually. But Komatsu is not the best at old parts availability compared to say Cat. But its worth a shot. For things like seals, bearings, etc I usually do a lot of measuring and sourcing. Hydraulic seals I hit up a cylinder shop 40 miles away and they usually fix me up.
As for a boneyard that has a winch thats a tuff one. Start looking on machinery trader for dismantled machines and making some calls and see what you can find.
Quote from: Don P on March 22, 2023, 08:36:06 AM
We repacked the blade tilt and one of the angle cylinders yesterday on the TD8E dozer, we've now redone all the cylinders up front. The first one twice, I bought an ebay seal kit and learned my lesson ::). I'm not entirely sure those weren't OE seals from the 80's in the glands yesterday, but they came out in pieces, amazing they held at all. We pulled one of the rear pair of cylinders to the rake yesterday, I've had that chained up for over a year. Uhh since I had to use everything she had to break mud suction and crib the machine outta a baaad place :D. Every new machine has a steep learning curve for awhile. We've been unable to find the seal kit for them so off to the shop and maybe they can find something. Seems like several of you are running this stuff, this one is a Dresser which went to Komatsu. Regionally they were sold to a new outfit a year or so ago and parts support is, well, this machine is older than they are. Where are y'all getting seals and parts and where are the boneyards, I'd love to find a winch and scrap/trade the rake in?
Going to second the recommendations on a good cylinder shop. I think the best in Virginia is in Dayton, VA. Precision is the name. Mennonite. Very good, will match anything- the sealkit room has to be seen to be believed. They also build cylinder machines for other shops, they are actually quite large for a Mennonite operation. Build any size cylinder you need, fix anything. Neat shop.
The local shop that does our hoses sent us to another nearby shop, long story short, new seals should be here Monday 8). DB has a walk and flag with a landowner next week and then we'll move it and see if everything holds. 2 pails and you've bought a nice set of seals. There are a couple of large shops up in the coalfields, we had a cylinder on the Lull that needed a new cylinder made, they can handle anything but are a good trot. The local shop doesn't have a machine shop but if they can find good parts reasonable that'll take care of us most times.
DonP, I worked at Rish Equipment Co for 43 years.When I started working for them they were an International Harvester dealer and the TD8C was the latest TD8 at that time which was 1977.The TD8E was also a International Harvester machine and Dresser bought them out.Rish had a branch in Coburn Va for years but the whole company shut down a couple years ago.Anderson Equipment took over the Komatsu account in WV so you might check with them for parts.When looking for parts most people will be more familiar with the TD8 as a International Harvester machine.I worked on them quite a bit if you ever need any info.They were a well built machine although they did go with a lighter transmission between the C and E models.
Note to self, put Bill on Christmas cookie list.
We miss y'all. The VA and ortho doc are in Salem so we were buying from there whenever one of us was going by.
Some new people have bought the raw mountain land down the road from us. I met them clearing a path in and saw he had dropped a dozer off. It was his older TD7. Knock wood, they seem to be pretty solid. I do hear an ominous sounding whine mostly from the filters beside the seat but its coming from the pump I think. Hopefully at least next winter, spring is here. I'm not wearing flannel lined tomorrow :D
Quote from: Andries on February 10, 2023, 06:16:11 PM
That's a nasty turn of events.
I've ordered some WM parts, which took about eight weeks to be delivered, so you might be in a t-shirt by the time the repairs come up on the 'today' list.
If this drama has been going on for a while and is unpredictable, maybe the more important issue is the Setworks. Have you had a call with the gurus on tech support in Indianapolis?
Just a follow up on this, it ain't over yet and it's 8 weeks today. WM has sent the wrong swing arm twice. Each cycle goes something like, send them photos showing the wrong part and why it's wrong, them investigating for a day, them getting back to us and confirming it's the wrong part and they are checking into the right one, a day or 3 later they tell us they shipped the right one, wait a week to get it, find out it's wrong and repeat the process. Apparently they have not done a good job of documenting their engineering changes and can't figure out which revision arm we have (I sent photos along). One arm they sent was current for an LT70, so their new plan is to send us the mating parts for the LT70 upper arm assembly and have us convert it. But they have none of the upper arms and can't get us a date on when they are going to make them.
At this point, as soon as it stops raining I am gonna go to the mill and grab the busted parts and see if I can come up with a plan to remanufacture it. It's a little tricky, not just re-welding and it has to be pretty dang square to work properly. But we have resources. ;D
SO Andries, it looks like your crystal ball is fully operational.
Well, the seals that were gonna be here last Monday arrived at 4 yesterday and the clouds just parted. We call it "mountain time", stuff happens when it happens :).
Rolled over means you are upside down and looking at the ground at some point. Rolled on its side or tipped over is what most folks experience.
My lil Kubota bit the dust. I had it at a weird angle and was using the backhoe. I heard the noise but it was already too late. Oil starvation to a rod bearing, wiped a journal on the crankshaft. By the time I got the supports back up and got it on level ground for towing it was far worse. Got a scrape or two on the truck pulling it out of the brush.
Parts are easy to come by, you just have to watch out for the cheep chinese crap out there. Engine is on the workbench just about to be reassembled. Its been awhile since I rebuilt an engine, so I'm actually enjoying the opportunity but not the price! Interesting little engine.
Not really carnage but do you see what I see?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34659/28F44586-E80B-4002-8E1D-5C2D55C0BC87.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1680360880)
V it out weld it up. Old style John Deere wheels are terrible for this. I'll have to get more centers torched out to double up this machine to.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34659/B55E9541-14D4-40C4-A650-E771BD718B27.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1680369105)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34659/C0F0BF4A-4C60-4F8E-9331-9C85565BDBCC.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1680369117)
Oh it's carnage enough.
It would have been carnage if I kept running it. 😆 Front tire on a buncher. Not good.
Fine looking welding job. :)
Luckily you caught it before it turned to carnage. Easy to V it out and weld it up now. Lot harder to have to try and put the center back in the wheel after it tears loose. Haha.
Thanks. Good enough for who it's for lol i got a lot newer portable welder and it's hard for a simple wood chopper like me to learn new adjustments but welds good. I feel amp for amp it's weaker than my older one. Works though 🤷♂️
Maybe we can call that, "pre-carnage"😊
We got one rear cylinder rebuilt on the dozer. The other gland wasn't cracking free with a 5' cheater so it is soaking but it seems to be staying up so better that it was. The bore had a little light rust, cleaned up as best we could, we'll see.
So on to the gristmill truck,
This was not what I expected after fighting the rear duals off the early 80's C5000 GMC box truck. It has disc brakes on the rears. The pistons were stuck, the inner pad is down beyond getting into the metal. I got the dual pistons backed off, the pads are rattling but the caliper will not slide, I've been soaking it, nudged it with as much intent as I dared with up to an 8 lb and even rattled it a little with the hilti percussion drill in hammer mode, nothing budging. The tire code is '02.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/C5000brake.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1680388768)
That silver T bar and shim in the pic below are in the slider at the bottom. I tried a drift on it and nothing budged. I'm thinking that is the sacrificial way out of this, slicing it with an angle grinder to make a gap and hopefully knock it out?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/C5000brake2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1680389248)
OR, am I just missing something obvious?
Doesn't that silver T bar have a bolt holding it? Been a long time since I did one of those but if I remember the notch in the T bar had a bolt into the caliper to keep it from sliding.
Yup, I neglected to mention, that's the gold bolt there, I got it out and can tap either end on the T bar with a drift but it isn't moving.
That band that works like the tension spring probably rusted, corroded, and swelled up to tighten the T bar along with rust all along the caliper edges. Gonna have to soak it (try beeswax after a littler heat). Might need to service the air hammer............
Ahh, bet you're right. I'll aggravate the air hammer a little tomorrow before going to borrow the torch :D.
I got the caliper out by slicing that T piece. The shim was indeed the main culprit it was in 3 pieces and mostly expanded rust.
Now the question is, I'm finding rebuilt Raybestos calipers from $41-$252. The cheapest says it is a Raybestos Element-3 and the $110 one is a Raybestos R-line. The $252 was WalMart ::). Any Idea on the difference. The '87 truck has ~30k on the odometer and I think I did half of those about 10 years ago hauling produce to Boone for the market. Since then it was mostly sitting, we would get Christmas trees with it, a couple of square bale runs. With the gristmill in the box it probably won't see 500 miles/year.
No idea on the brakes but put some Never-Seize on the slide.
R Line looks like daily driver, Element 3 appears to be high performance line.
R Line loaded around 110.00 each. Element 3 unloaded 104.00
What I was seeing, element 3 is new aftermarket and zinc plated, and R line is rebuilt. At the cheapest price I'm all about high performance.
Here's the carnage;
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/caliper1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1680561185)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/caliper2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1680561835)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/caliper3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1680562497)
New Element 3 caliper and cheap pads popped up, right at $100, not bad. I'll emery the inside of the disc and these were the cheap pads. I'll know soon. and it's plumbing, it ain't over yet :D.
Does this count as carnage or well loved?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45059/mower_blades.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1683586868)
I think there is a few more years left in the bottom one :)
I tried to make a leaf collector chute for the mower last fall. I kept getting clogs. I think the lack of the lift part of the blade may have been the reason?
Put news ones on and you will notice the different.
Wife mows a lot!!!!
I use to change them every year. The blades would look almost that bad.
Quote from: Crusarius on May 08, 2023, 07:06:03 PMI think there is a few more years left in the bottom one :)
I tried to make a leaf collector chute for the mower last fall. I kept getting clogs. I think the lack of the lift part of the blade may have been the reason?
Must be that time of year, ha. A slow spring has meant no mowing here quite yet but I did mower maintenance on Sunday. I was working under the delusion that I would be able to take the blades off and sharpen them. This is what I saw when I got the first one off. Yikes. It was off to the store for a new set.
This project could also have an honorable mention for the "did something dumb" thread, with the work wrapped up I was driving the mower back to the shed and switched on the blades to make sure everything was in order. The wrench I had on top of the spindle to hold it for blade removal/reinstall was awfully loud when it spun 180 degrees and knocked itself loose once it hit the frame. Nothing damaged but my pride thankfully.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/42799/Newoldblades_0523.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1683603742)
well shoot, I knew I had more life in my blades :)
Now if I can just get the shop from amazon I ordered the new blades from to actually talk to me or deliver them then that would be great. for now I just put the square set on so at least I am ready if the yard ever drives enough I can get to the mower.
For living on top of a hill the swamp here is pretty bad.
400hp motor went out on the cone crusher, sunday at 8am, they ask me to help with the excavator. luckily they had a spare motor. sometimes i'm glad i don't own a crusher.
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No, you don't want to own a crusher when it breaks down😬 The cone is huge money if I remember correctly.
It's like a pan scraper (earthmover), the machine basically destroys itself over time while running (especially with grit getting into every moving part). You just hope it makes more money than it costs to fix it.
Quote from: Resonator on July 03, 2023, 10:37:30 AM
It's like a pan scraper (earthmover), the machine basically destroys itself over time while running (especially with grit getting into every moving part). You just hope it makes more money than it costs to fix it.
Sorta like a CTL harvester ;D :)
The same is really true of any sort of equipment. Some are obviously more costly to run than others. But it all breaks down and wears out so you need to be producing enough when it's running to pay to keep it running or replace it.
My thoughts exactly, Chevy. Some stuff takes a lot longer to wear back into the basic elements- a cone crusher you can kinda watch it happen though😁
Quote from: barbender on July 03, 2023, 10:16:00 AM
No, you don't want to own a crusher when it breaks down😬 The cone is huge money if I remember correctly.
Everything, not just the cone, the jaw crusher and the screen plant. try to buy conveyor belt, just sit down when they give you the price, lol. the last firm had to replace a bearing on the jaw, was 14k for one bearing and there are 4 bearings in just the jaw.
crushers are the worst, just the task they do is so violent that the machine rattles itself to pieces. i imagine that big chippers are in the same category.
Oh my hat is off to a jaw or cone crusher, they break rocks into pieces for days on end- it is a wonder that they hold together at all!
They guarantee welders will never run out of work. (And burn that rod down to the numbers, can't waste money!) :D
Quote from: Resonator on July 04, 2023, 11:58:42 AM
They guarantee welders will never run out of work. (And burn that rod down to the numbers, can't waste money!) :D
PAST the numbers. I always heard that if you can tell what it was, you're wasting money!
Yes past the numbers, I stand corrected. Been a while since I heard that saying. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33326/IMG_4558.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1689382623)
My lowboy driver found a viaduct today with the forwarder, starting an afternoon filled with fun problems to solve. Good times were had by all. ::)
Oh my. Did you attempt to strangle him?
One of the neighbors suffered this one. A couple was fighting / arguing travelling down the highway north of 70 mph. He lost control and decided to drive through my neighbor's yard. That John was hooked to an 8 foot 3 ph disc. The disc stayed where it was. The tractor rotated about 190 degrees and collected his pickup as well. The tractor was destroyed. Disc was sitting with lift arms and top link still attached. The rear axle on the truck is bent along with sheer metal damage. I'm sure the insurance company will total it. Don't know if the frame is bent or not. If not, I think the truck is salvageable.
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Guy threaded the needle between the pecan tree to the left and a guy wire to the right. On the bright side, if the tractor wasn't there, he would have driven through the living room so I guess there is some upside.
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Wud
WOW
Glad everyone is ok. Sad thing is that your neighbor probably won't be able to replace his tractor with what the insurance is going to give him for the old one.
Not nearly as bad as the previous posts, but quite a fitting way to end this week on the way home from work. I had taken my tractor to school to get the students to help me with a few repairs to last week's carnage. On the way home on a crowded 8-lane road, a nice woman pointed to the rear of my trailer. I could read her lips. By the time I could get pulled off of the highway, my tire was shredded. I contemplated chaining the axle up since I did not have a spare with me. My son in law was heading to work in town so he brought me his cattle trailer's spare.
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At least I had an adequate jack.
since it was not his fault, I bet the drivers insurance is on the hook. may take an attorney or even the tractor owners' insurance, but they should have to fix or replace everything.
Well, that's not good. 30to excavator vs chainsaw, thats a first for me, at least it was the oldest saw with a worn out bar and the saw has paid for itself several times but still was a perfectly fine saw.
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Sadly broken!
Never like to see this thread pop up. That saw sure got munched up
sorry Ramone.
I wish you were closer, looks like the carb made it ffcheesy.
I got home the other day in the wifes car with a tire like caveman's above. I heard and felt it go and pulled into a great changing spot, and no jack. Used car and I guess I never looked. I was about 5 miles from home, the tire was toast but the rim doesn't look like it ever touched. Nice thing about light cars. Boy was I glad I was driving it, I rarely do.
Ouch! Hope it wasn't the saw from the timbersports championship.
At least it was not the 500i that Barge sent you. I smashed my favorite saw when I was quarantined for Covid a few years ago and set the saw down to get the phone. A log decided to succumb to gravity and smash it. It was one I bought off of CL for $100, but we paid over $2000 buying two saws to replace it.
Yes, the carb made it ffcheesy, that was the only thing together with some screws and the felling dogs. The rest is garbage.
If it would have been the 500i I would really hate myself for a long time. That why i use the 500 strictly for felling and bucking at the sawmill, less chance that something like this happens.
Called my stihl dealer friend, offered me the same 361 or a new and better version than the old 038, 380, 381, the new 382, lighter than the old one. almost the same weight as the 361 but more power, 72cc saw.
https://fireandsaw.com/stihl-ms382-chainsaw/
When dealing with the mentally challenged... It won't start. You think so ?
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Barge, that just does not look correct but maybe with these new engines the valves run themselves
That will take some parts and time to fix.
HHmmm grim. That's looks pretty bad. If I were you barge I wouldn't even try the duct tape. I'd move right up to gorilla tape for that mess. O0
nothing wrong in that pic, that's the new eco mode. Drop a cylinder when it's not needed....
I thought it was the fuel pump and chased that for awhile but I'm pretty sure that MAP sensor is the reason for the "I don't wanna pull the trailer up the hill" trouble.
As I was picking up I got a smile. This year will be 50 years since I last saw him. Grandad would hit his tools on the grinder 3 times to brand them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/Grandad_sWrench.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352974)
Three times on each end - both sides?
😁
Fifty years ago, wow; what wrench brands did Grandad spend his money on?
That one is a little unusual, he hit it twice. I guess the light marks weren't up to snuff. Most were Craftsman but there was plenty of yard sale too, as was Dad's carpenter's toolbox. There is one sprung wrench here somewhere that I think is from a Model T or early Ford toolkit.
Excavator has a leaking piston since some weeks, nothing bad, just put a old t-shirt around the cylinder, have the seal kit here but no time to do the work. yesterday, monday morning we start sawing and the dust collector went up in smoke, dang....., take it down, smoke comes out from the inside so not the capacitor, ok set aside, will bring it to a electrical shop. start sawing without extraction, we did it for years before, what a mess. at mid day went to the woods to get more logs, skidder starts leaking a steering piston, ......, wife tells me that the car shakes it's butt when going into a curve, probably a worn bushing, ...... one of these days!!!! i told my work, i would love to have some slow days so i can do a little TLC. he shakes his head and says, some day boss, some day
I found after all my years of working on cars it is easier to just sign the check. Work gets done much faster to.
Well currently my dozer is down due to starter going out over the winter. I sold my 690D and my mill is waiting on a new setworks install. When I went to pick up my new MX5100 kubota a couple years ago my neighbor tore up my trailer so I borrowed one from a friend and after about a mile on the big road I couldn't hardly keep the truck in my lane. I glance in the mirrors and could see the trailer going all over the place. My brand new tractor holding on for dear life and traffic behind me had come to a complete stop in the middle of a smoke filled haze on the interstate waiting for the carnage.
I managed to get off to the shoulder without wrecking. Mostly due to my years of expert professional driving skills. Shameless pat on the back. Thank you Jesus (credit where it really belongs) anyway one of the three axels broke and turned completely sideways under the trailer. Sorry no pics. The rollback came and hauled my tractor home and we used his winch to finish removing the twisted metal from under the trailer.
Wow that was a pucker factor of 10.