Just bought a brand new Husqvarna 372xp x-torq last week and the problems have already begun. I have run about 6-7 tanks through it 40:1 mix. First 3 tanks were the husky pre mix. All of a sudden the saw started running noticeably lean, it takes a while to idle down after a cut. So I richened up the L screw all the way which wasn't much with the limiter caps. Is the whole slow to return to idle normal for a husky or do I bring the thing back? It's under warranty. Knew I should've stuck with stihl! :D
You can have the same problems with Stihl or any other brand, trust me. Take it back to the dealer and leave it there with him a few days for a good check over. Could be something simple. Tell him you want it presure/vac tested.
Thanks for the advice I really hate putting my saws in the hands of the shop. Anything I should check on the saw before I send it in. I pulled the plug and it doesn't look too lean.
Could be any brand. I don't own one of these (yet), but was at a logger's seminar a few weeks back and it came up when we were talking saws (imagine that?!). There was a lot of talk on the modules, apparently some earlier ones that still may be sitting on a shelf at some dealers are an earlier version and there was an 'update' because of 'issues'. Not being an owner/user, I kept my mouth shut and just listened. I did not file all the details away, but the take-away was that some guys had to get their modules updated and the saw ran fine. Take it back, check the basic stuff, but ask them to check the firmware dates (or what ever they call that dang voodoo) to see if it is current. I know a lot of these new saws 'program themselves based on usage' (this scares me a lot), and if the saw spends too much time idling, it will adjust the mix to run best at idle. I have a friend who climbs and his saw hangs on his belt a lot at idle while he is rigging. He says he is done with the Stihl gas saws because he only gets a couple of jobs out of them and they won't run for shoot. He is looking for a good battery saw to use aloft. Yeah, these computer 'enhancements' are working out great. Next thing you know, you software will expire. I hate the direction this is headed in, but I wish you the best of luck with your saw, and please do let us know how it turns out.
Tom
Cam, where are you located, do you not have any good saw shops around? Obviously you didn't buy that saw from Home Despot. If it was a Husky dealer, service should be more important to them than sales.
Thanks for the reply Tom, I think I'm gonna bring it in tomorrow. Can anyone tell me if these 372's have any kind of modules that tune the saw on its own if so that scares me! no_no
Yes I am located in ct I got it from a husky/echo dealer in east Lyme. Gonna stop by in the morning.
I would also like to mention this just started happening when I transferred from the husky pre mix to my own. Not sure why this is
Not familiar with Huskies, but a quick look says that doesn't have autotune, so no computer adjusting tune for you. That leaves the potential "legacy" tuning problems I'm not qualified to diagnose :shrugs:
Any new saw needs to be fine tuned after a few tanks for optimum performance, let the shop take a few minutes with it. This is understandable switching from canned fuel to a heavier oil mix.
The fuel, unless it is bad, old, poorly mixed, should not cause the saw to delay dropping to idle. (And I don't think you could do that if you tried.)
Remember the dealers job is to provide good service so that you come back, buy other stuff and build a long relationship. That is the plan anyway and you are right, some dealers look at customers coming in for service work as either annoyances, or cash cows. That is not always a bad thing if they doo good work, the FIRST time through, but if they don't, it is bad for them and bad for the customer.
On the other side of the coin, as a customer with a problem, especially with a new saw, your job is to give them as much detail as possible about the problem, it's nuances, and the circumstances around that problem, as you have done here. You should also tell them your expectations i.e. :Could you please check [this, or that thing] and let me know what you find, as well as politely reminding them it is a brand new saw that cost a fair amount of very hard earned money and you are being more than reasonable in expecting them to make it run right so that you can make money for your 'next purchase'. Don't let them blow you off.
I say this because my son has a property management business and he works really hard at it. He spends a LOT of money at a particular local dealer for equipment and service. Chainsaws are not his thing, but he uses them and has a few. He dropped one off that stopped running and they 'evlauated' it for him. They said it needed a new jug, piston, rings and connecting rod before they could even go any further. He didn't have the cash for that so he took it home and threw it in the corner of my shop. One night I took a quick look. Short story: nothing wrong with ANY of the things they mentioned, the saw starts and runs like a bandit, but it is not getting fuel ( I had to get fuel into it directly to try it) it needs a fuel filter, new air filter, new fuel line, and MAYBE a new carb. Now I bought my Husky there new a few years back. Do you think I am going there for service? I would not trust those guys as far as I could drop kick them.
If you have to, make your dealer do their job. You have already paid for that.
No Autotune on a 372. And as long as you stay with a 40:1 ratio, you should be ok with the oil. If it were me, I would have stuck with the Husky oil till the warrantee ran out. The dealer may use this as a issue for it not to be covered, if you need parts or for labor. Some won't honor the warrantee if you use any other oil during break-in, depends on the dealer. Nevertheless, you shouldn't be having those issues with that new of a saw. ;)
The module only limits the RPM that the saw will top out at, it's not a computer controlled saw. Without a tach on it you are basically throwing darts at a wall trying to get the mixture right now. Has the temperature changed a bunch over the past couple of days? New saw, not broken in, big temp swings, yes it will need to be fine tuned. That is probably the only advantage an auto tune saw would have in my opinion. Won't take 5 minutes for a competent tech with a tach to get it dialed in for you.
Just looked at a new 372 a couple hours ago. Thinking 372 or 461 so please let us know what you find out.
Ran my 372 again today and seemed to be running fine. Pulled the plug and it's a nice light brown after I turned it as far counterclockwise as the limiter caps would allow. So I think I'm just gonna run it! As far as 372 vs 461 I have both, well 460 but pretty much the same thing. I like both saws, seems like the 372 spins a little faster but the 460 has more bottom end torq if say if the stuff you're cutting is 20" and under the 372 is perfect if you are dropping bigger stuff with say a 32" bar which is what I have on my 460 (skip tooth) the 460 would be the way to go. But this is just my opinion. They are both good saws that are only .5 hp apart. Good luck! Can't go wrong either way.
Get a Poulan splined carb screwdriver to adj. carb. All you have to do to defeat the limiter is push the tool in and turn. You can feel it push the spring in. I have 3-372XT saws.
Shep
Sorry to hear about your problem. I hope it's been fixed and runs good now. I had the same problem with my Hulz 372XT. I always knew it had a crankseal leak from early on. You can also tell by when you pick up the saw while it's running, it will want to die and it never idles good very long.
There is a design flaw on this saw. There is metal coller that fits over the crankshaft and under the crankase seal on the bar side. Air gets sucked in from between it and the crankshaft. Husky is supposed to install an o-ring that presses up against it at the factory. Someone suggested using high temp gasket maker over the crank to seal it.
Also check the throttle linkage after removing the air filter cover with the saw running. These saws also have alot of problems with the throttle sticking and hanging up. I've had to mod mine with zip ties to keep it from coming undone from the cable guide (X-Torque only) that's part of the intake boot. Also spraying cooking oil in the trigger helps keep that from sticking.
Most of this thread is almost 2 years old, but since it was brought up again.............
It's comical that a guy with a Huztl clone saw wants to talk about design flaws and solutions. Husky is supposed to, and of course does, install that o-ring underneith the oil pump gear bushing. It's been that way since the chassis came out back in 1996. Some folks say that it isnt really needed, (I disagree). One of them is Huztl/Farmertec who does not include that part in their saw kits. And in 20 years of selling 372's, I've never needed zip ties and cooking oil to get the throttle to work properly. :)
Thanks for making a stink about some advice I gave. I guess I could mention that the 372XT can have a cracked intake, a seal leak in the crankcase, a leak in the head gasket, and a sticky throttle. I guess you feel this forum is for bashing other members. I want to get help and give some advice and info if I have any to share.
Design flaw? Only made thousands and thousands of these, now its a design flaw?
Plus Stihl used the exact same arrangement on the 044/440 since about 1988.
All he is saying is don't criticize Husqvarna for your problems with a cheap knockoff, they don't belong in the same sentence. @Spike60 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=13669) is an experienced tech and knows his chit. Listen to him, you might learn something.
Quote from: O.R.Birr on December 17, 2020, 07:49:33 PM
Thanks for making a stink about some advice I gave. I guess I could mention that the 372XT can have a cracked intake, a seal leak in the crankcase, a leak in the head gasket, and a sticky throttle. I guess you feel this forum is for bashing other members. I want to get help and give some advice and info if I have any to share.
Ya know what? This forum is not for bashing other members. Its not allowed, but it was also not built to dispense idiototic information. I don't have a clue about chainsaws, i would not attempt to pretend, because I would be called out as a fool, and they would be right. Kinda exactly how you looked on the topic when you were expounding your complete and utter lack of knowledge on how many bf of lumber are in a cord. The chainsaw boys here do not play.
Think sawguy21's post is a clear and simple clarification to those who will listen.
This like 2.0 of another thread where the same premise was laid out where since a Huztl XT was bad the OEM must be as well, I guess I understand how that "leap" can be done and obviously the discussion trying to explain the difference between clone and real OEM saw wasn't accepted. That's a shame, but it's not worth a battle to spam a classy site like this. AND statistics are on display here. If that concept isn't understood, my guess is no amount of logic will change that, like other things in life; an understanding that is a 50/50 mix of reality & logic vs. pure emotion. :) At some point just let it go ...
Funny you say that. Apparently alot of people on this forum think the 372XT is the design flaw! Well...I guess buying a cheapo model to get me buy isn't so bad then. I spent less than a 1/3 the price of oem to find that out. Now you're telling me eveyone LOVES these XT's. Are you a dealer?
A dealer? Are you a troll? I don't think I have ever heard anyone bash a 372 or a 372XT. If you have legitimate issues with your cheap, Chinese knock off then by all means participate and guys will gladly help. Some have turned those into at least a reliable saw. If on the other hand you simply live to stir the pot and cause trouble - well, us Admins play even less than the chainsaw folks do.
I have most likely put more hours on a XT husky than just about any person here , there is no design flaw that I have seen and I have saws with a lot of hours on them . all that was wrong with the first guys post is the carb needed to be adjusted richer , if your at the carb limiter just shove the outside ring on the jet in and adjust the jet to where it needs to be then let the limiter ring come back out on the jet , the end of a file works good for shoving the ring in. if your idle is high enough the advance in the coil kicks in and that raises the rpms up and down so keep the idle down below where the coil advance kicks in
It could be a kinked fuel line. Same thing was happening with my X Torq right after I rebuilt it. Ran fine one minute and the next it was running lean. The metering lever being too low as well could cause it run lean as well.
That could be it Austin. I actually kinked a fuel line doing a quickie rear mount replacement for a guy a couple months back. Pulled some extra line out when moving the tank to get at the mount, and it then kinked when I put the tank back in place. Never started the saw, or I would have found it. Normally don't do "while you wait" repairs, but but this customer is one of the exceptions. And the stories he tells when you are working on his saws are priceless.
Sorry I struck a nerve there with O.R. Don't feel it was "bashing" as I said nothing personal; just a little sarcastic/humorous disagreement. But it's worth noting that I see an awful lot of people come to this site for advice. A lot of "I'm New" guys looking for a little help. Many aren't looking to stay and hang out; just have a problem they need some asistance with. I gotta assume something must be directing them here, identifying FF as a good reference source. So, it's worth the effort to keep the quality of the advice up there with the forum's reputation. Just sayin'. :)