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Has anyone ever been in a rottne 1020 control box before?

Started by allaboutsawdust, June 02, 2017, 08:20:02 PM

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allaboutsawdust

Was just curious if anyone else on here has ever had problems with the main control circuit board (1020 box) or repaired one before. Our oldest forwarder seems to keep having failures in this box every couple years and we can't seem to figure out what the trigger is. The resistors, voltage converter and fuses all seem to check out as they should but for some reason this machine seems to really have a problem with this control board. Any ideas?
A father son cut to length team with a '00 rottne smv harvester,  and a 2010 rottne smv forwarder, '74 664 clark ranger skidder.

Riwaka

Generally vibration etc can take a toll on the circuit boards. It might be the design of the board that does not allow for a multi year MTBF.
Do you  have  heavy-duty surge suppression in the electrical system?

bushmechanic

If we knew the model and year of the machine that might help. I have had problems with the European fuses that are found in those machines. When you look at them they look fine and the strip is intact but remove them and the ends where they contact will be arced out making poor contact and giving intermittent problems. Snowstorm, another member on this forum is knowledgeable on the Rottne machines, he may chime in on this thread.

snowstorm

like he said those goofy vw fuses . and they are hidden all over the machine. some on the panels on the side then some overhead by the radio. mine would stop moving then it was fine for a long time. i moved the power source for the voltage converter. i also added a solenoid to power any extras.   

snowstorm

we need a little more to go on. the other travel problem  thats common is the rheostat under the cab. left rear. takes little to get off track

allaboutsawdust

When troubleshooting and eliminating all of what could be the problems outside the box we noticed by mistake that the aluminum outside case is hot with 24 volts. The box is properly grounded so that only leaves having a short inside the box itself. I did have a friend of mine look inside the box and saw a couple transistors that look suspect to him.  I should in the future try and put some sort of surge protection on the hot going into the box. This machine is our 89 12 ton forwarder, we have never had any trouble with these boxes on our forwarder or the two harvesters we have had. I must be overlooking something but I am sure I will find it it's just a matter of being patient to find these electrical glitches.
A father son cut to length team with a '00 rottne smv harvester,  and a 2010 rottne smv forwarder, '74 664 clark ranger skidder.

snowstorm

Is what you call the box the series Parralell  switch?  Battery cables go to it. There are 2 coils in there along with 2 flat fuses that bolt in. It starts on 24 v runs on 12. Then a voltage converter for the hystat If you take it off take a picture of it so you get the wires in the same place. I was told you can't get parts for them. New is around 500

allaboutsawdust

The 1020 box is in the center section of your dash under your forward/reverse lever. It's the circuit board in the aluminum case that controls your working throttle, brakes it's basically the brains of the machine. Today I checked every wire that runs from the box to the terminals and found no problems. Hopefully I can find the issue in the box and repair it and add some extra surge protection for next time.
A father son cut to length team with a '00 rottne smv harvester,  and a 2010 rottne smv forwarder, '74 664 clark ranger skidder.

snowstorm


BrianHeiden

Did you figure out why you had 24 volts on the outside of the 1020 box I'm having the same issue? 

kiko

I have dealt with the aluminum control boxes, not on a Rottne but on propane trucks. Had the same issue with system voltage on the box itself.  These boxes were originally just grounded to the frame with the mount bolts and the control grounds to the box itself.  It was able to resolve this issue by removing the mount bolts and filling to new aluminum where the bolts mount bolts touch. This was only temporary for a season or two.  Ended up running a ground wire directly from the battery to the internal ground terminals inside the box. Thus  wire could also be connected to the master kill switch.  

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