I too Have a new Baby

[johnjbc]

Its a 1990 LT40HD24 in need of tender loving care. The paint is faded and I  see several small parts that need replacing, but the motor runs good and the hydraulics all work.
It came with a dozen blades, all dull, so the first thing is to get the sharpener and setter setup, and learn how to run them.
My only sawing experience consists of watching them saw at shows and lurking on the forum here.  
It came with all the manuals and I have read them, but will still have a lot of questions to ask.
 

[Bro. Noble]

congratulations John.

Looks just like our baby.  

I would reccomend that you read your manuel thoroughly (both mill and sharpener) and then find someone nearby with a similar setup.  Most people with these mills seem to be tolerable nice folks.  I'll bet you wouldn't have to beg too much to get them to let you help saw and sharpen for awhile or longer.

Then go back home and set your mill up and try her out.  Then read the manuals again as you will find a lot you missed the first time.

Too bad the other kind of babies don't have owners manuals.

Keep us informed of your progress.

If you come up with any questions about operating your new playthings,  just let us know.  I'm pretty sure you could pry some advice out of this bunch.

Noble

[Bibbyman]

Congratulation!  I bet it's still good for another million board feet of good lumber.

Wood-Mizer is the number one best selling mill in the world.  Do you know who their nearest competitor is in bandmill sales?  Used Wood-Mizers!  ;) And they couldn't be happier.  

Be sure to contact Wood-Mizer to get your mill registration transferred to your name so you'll get your day of free training and start getting Wood-Mizer news, etc.  Your customer number also speeds up ordering parts, support, because when you talk

Keep us updated.

[Bro. Noble]

PS

I would suggest that you go ahead and order some new blades ( I have tried a bunch of different ones and prefer WM 1 1/4 45 ga.)  That way you will have something to compare your sharpening job with.

Noble

[WoodChucker]

Congratulations there John, hope you wern't in labor long! lol

R.T.

[Kevin]

Ok that`s it,  I`m putting hydraulics on my LT-15.   ;D

Nice rig!

[johnjbc]

Thanks for the quick reply's I just got off the phone with Woodmizer. I now have a customer # and a box of blades on the way . For the day of training I would have to go to Hannibal, N. Y. about 300 mi. we'll see. :(

Kevin you can't put hydraulics on your mill. Your Snow Machine will bog down from the weight :-[

WoodChucker   I've been in labor for about 2 years (shopping) . First looked a bandmills 3 summers ago at the AG Progress Day's near State College Pa have been collecting brochures :-[ :P and looking at ads ever sense.  

[Ron Wenrich]

Whereabouts are you going to be using that?  I may know someone that can help you out.  He used to live in Hagerstown, but I would have to track him down.  He ran a Mizer for several years.

[Norm]

That's a nice mill John, my favorite color ;) Watch out for this sawmilling stuff it's addictive. Checked out your website, some good pic's there, looks like you'll never get bored.

[johnjbc]

Ron I live just outside of Carlisle and have some ground I am planning to build a cabin on in Fulton cty. near Needmore, Pa.
Just off Rt522 about 15 mi from the Md line. There are a few trees here in Carlisle that I will be learning on first. Then after I get finish installing my Sand Mound the plan is to cut the lumber for the cabin so it can be drying while we work on the foundation
John

[Gordon]

Congrats on the new mill John. Just outside of Carlisle huh---well you might be in Perry county if you go up and over the hill u know north mountian.

Gordon

[Tom]

Wow, that's my MIll.   Mine is a 1990 LT40HD24 with a trailer package.  Know that picture of me with my Million Board tag on the Million Board Foot Wall  that was posted on Here?  Well that mill took me there and more.  Yep, A million board feet.  That's a long walk when you consider a round trip up and back on the mill for every board.  That's a good mill and a good year.  It's still the light frame but I've never hurt mine. It tows and sets up real easy too.  One word of caution.  Pulling that handle for all those years has been instrumental in my suffering from Osteo-arthritis in both shoulders and debilitating tendenitis and frozen shoulder syndrome the last  two years.

If you begin to have problems because of the repetition please try to find a better way to pull the handle or do some kind of modification.  Repetitive joint injury is no fun.  Other than that.....Have a blast, it's fun.

[Jeff]

John,

Do you have an idea on the hours on your Mill? What parts do you think you will have to replace in order to start sawing?

[Corley5]

Cool looking toy!  Have fun with it.  Someday...

[johnjbc]

Gorden I'm south east of Carlisle in Cumberland County. Its about 12 mi. to the Perry County Line. Here all the Red Neck Jokes are changed to Perry County

Tom  Arthritis is no fun : I have some in my Knees. Guess if I were running it full time I would need a seat.

Jeff  It has 1370 hours on it. The previous owner put new style blade guides on it. Needs a paint job, a couple of plastic dirt plugs are missing , and the steel cable on the wench is frayed from catching on the turner. Otherwise I think (hope) its ok

Just finished sharpening 2 blades seems to cut more off of the face of the tooth than out of the gullet and doesn't go clear to the top of every tooth backside Could it be wheel dressing?

[J Beyer]

Is the WM AutoClutch retrofittable to older mills?  That would keep you from wearing your shoulder out so fast.

JB

[Jeff]

What is an auto clutch? An electric control for engaging drive?

[Bibbyman]

Jeff B,  you're right.  Auto Clutch comes with the remote station (no way otherwise to pull a lever while your standing still on one end of the mill while the head goes back and forth.) but it can be had with the walk along or ride along models.    

It's just a little toggle switch on the control panel that switches on and off a little motor on the head that pulls the linkage in and out.  

J Beyer, It can be retrofitted to at least some of the mills that didn't come with it I suspect because the instructions that came with our mill show how to install it.

Auto Clutch is one reason we went ahead and got Command Control station.  Pulling the clutch lever on our LT40HD35G Super was making Mary's right arm look like Popeye's!  That's part of my "If you got a good woman, you got to treat her right." Strategy.

[johnjbc]

Just finished my second evening in my workshop and I think I have 2 blades ready to go.
However I have a couple of questions.

What is the best way to remove sap and burs from grinding? Did it with a sharpened putty knife but it takes a while

How hard should you have to push the handle on the setter? The dial goes up another .001 after the pin springs are fully compressed. I adjusted it so that I just get the .001 at camover.

The blades I have, have about .002 less set after I turn the blade inside out. I'm talking about the existing set. Both blades I worked on are like that.

Do you set your setter up just like the Woodmizer book? Some of the setting on mine were way different from the way I read the book

[Bibbyman]

You really need to clean your blades before you start to grind and set them.  The best way would be to clean most of the sap off before you remove it from the mill.  Just turn up your water/soap flow,  spin the blade up, and watch it until it looks shiny and clean - maybe 5-10 seconds.  Then shut off the water flow and let it spin dry another few seconds.  Then oil it with something like WD40 before setting it aside to wait for sharpening.

Since you got blades already gummed up,  you could clean them with a wire brush by hand or on something like an electric drill.  Some soak them in diesel fuel and some coil them up and spray them down with oven cleaner.  Whatever works.

For taking the burrs off,  I used an old hickory hammer handle.  Kind of drag it across the backside of the teeth.  I go at it from an angle to get the teeth set on one side and then go around again getting the other side.  I knock the burrs off before setting.  

It would really be time well spent contacting WM and going to their free class.  When I got my mill in 94, we spent about half the day on blades and running the sharpener and setter.  

It all starts from that little sharp corner on that tooth.  If you ain't got that right you've lost the battle.

[Tom]

Bibbeyman is right.  You're best bet is to try to get to WoodMizer and learn the sharpening.  

Second best would be to find someone (who knows how) and watch them for awhile. The thing about watching other folks is determining whether they know what they are doing.  :D

:D  (take me with a grain of salt too ;D)

Sharpening blades is more art than science.  The Science is the shape of the blade.  The art is getting to that point.

The setter is a matter of Feel as well as measurement.  The point of the "hammer" (that do-dad that pushes the tooth) needs to be just below the tip and the clamp just at the gullet so that you are bending the top of the tooth rather than the back of the blade.  I seldom use the "break" on the setter because every tooth will set differently.  You have to overcome the "memory" of the metal in the tooth, which means that you may be bending the tooth to 55 thousandths to get a 21 thousandths set.  The newer setters have a dead spot where the clamp holds the blade before the hammer contacts the tooth.  This spot is used to check the set you have just performed so you can do it again or go on to the next tooth.

(Of course, for this to work, you must be sure your setter is zeroed)

You will find that one side of a blade will set differently from the other side.  The memory is different.  That's another reason I don't depend on a preset setter.  It's the final result that matters so treat each tooth as its own entity. Each Tooth is a Tool.

Cleaning the Burrs.

I come from the old school, I guess.  Woodmizer taught me to set first and then sharpen.  That way the burr doesn't matter and the tooth configuration is proper as well.  The first few turns of the blade in the wood you are cutting will clean it right up.  This gets me finished with my blade sharpening earlier too.  I can go eat supper rather than be anal about how shiny my bands are. :D

Sharpening
You are right.  Stone shaping has a lot to do with the shape of the tooth.  You need a flat face, a deep gullet and a back grind that goes all the way to the top of the next tooth.  That's where most of your sharpening comes from, the back grind.
Your face grind should be very light.  All you are trying to do is flatten the face of the tooth so that it is at a 90 degree angle to the travel of the band.  Just a "Kiss".

The Gullet must be ground smoothly so as not to generate areas that will flex and cause the blade to fail.  There should also be a smooth, rounded transition of shape at the bottom of the tooth that inhibits flex and directs the sawdust into the gullet.  Too sharp of a corner causes the blade to flex at that point and lose strength.  Too flat of a curve causes the sawdust to pack at the bottom of the tooth.

The backgrind is very dependent on the shape of the stone.  It must go to the top of the next tooth and provide, at least, a 3/16 in. tall tooth.  It works in conjunction with the Cam. If you continue to have problems with reaching the top of the next tooth then your cam may not match the configuration of the blade.  Blade styles have different slopes on their backs and different heights and rakes.  The cam is very instrumental retaining these designs.

Last but not least, remember that Light is Right.  Don't take too big of a bite.  It is more important to grind light and slow and make more trips around the blade than to get in a hurry and ruin your stone and blade both.

[Bibbyman]

I was from the newer school :P - grind first, set later.  In class we talked about both methods and there wasn't a compelling case to go one way or the other.  Some say you'll loose some of your set by setting and then grinding,  others say you can't get an accurate set after grind because you can't remove all of the burrs - even the ones along the bottom of the gullet will drag on the setter, etc.   If I remember right, in the class they said somewhere along the lines their instruction book got the procedure swapped in their newer editions so they started teaching it grind then set.

About the only thing I could add to Tom's instruction is something that may be obvious:  The blade must be clean of sap and rust scale to get a good set reading.  And if you grind first, then you must remove the burrs as well.

Also,  talk about art, grinding is music too.  You'll tune your ear to listen to the grinder.  You'll know when it's grinding too much or not enough or skipping places.  It should be a steady rhythm to the grind.

I lightly redressed the wheel between every blade.  I also tended to take two light passes rather than one heavy pass.  Grinding with a rather brisk rate of blade feed tended to produce less blue and burnt tooth tips than grinding heavy and slow.  You'll just have to experiment.

I guarantee if you got to the WM class you'll come back at least confused about a hundred things about blades you never knew before.  At least I did. But it'll all come back when you start to apply it.

[johnjbc]

Thanks for all the help. My new blades came and I was able to compare them to the ones I sharpened and they look pretty close.
I have  a cherry and a willow log about ready to test them on. Will let you know how it comes out.



This is my helper

[johnjbc]

Be for I saw anything thought I would post these pictures. Wouldn't want to take credit for them

Turner catching on cable



Saw cut in clamp

[DanG]

Good Idea, John.  Document all the past screw-ups, 'cause you will make plenty of'em on your own. :D :D

Seriously, though, congrats on the "new" mill. I went with an older one, myself, and I don't regret it for a moment. Mine's got more board feet left in it than I do, anyway. :

[johnjbc]

First the good news. One of my neighbors saw the mill setting in the yard and called. Has some walnut logs he wants sawed
After I got my mill home the first thing I did was get the pressure washer out and clean it up. And sense it was clean I thought I might as well paint it before getting out the grease gun. That's when I learned about the ground contact that rides on the bottom rail . If you can't paint the track how do you keep it from rusting?
Well last night I finally got to my first attempt at sawing. The first problem was getting the log on the mill. My Northern Hydraulic cant hook firewood tool doesn't seem to be able to grab into a big log. Had to use my digging bar and blocks to roll it unto the loader.
After it was up on the mill I had to use the chain saw to trim it so the carriage didn't hit. Its sort of laying on a flat side so there isn't quite room to get the clamp to flip up..
Well now for the bad part. I put a blade on and lightly engaged the clutch to center it. Checked and the bottom of the gullet was just off the edge of the band wheel like the manual says. I put the cover on and lined up for my first cut.. When I engaged the blade I though I saw a spark but every thing seemed OK. I cut about 1/2 inch of but flair and was in bark 1/2 way up the log.. Brought the carriage back and tried a thicker cut. The blade went in about 8 inches climbing at about 10 degrees and stopped.. Had to release the blade to back the carriage away from the log and drive a chisel into the cut to release the blade.
Found that the tips of the blade are rounded. Checked the log for dirt or stones. None. Then I found a fresh grove in the inside of the blade cover.
At that point it was getting dark so I put the tools away and quit for the night. Planning to go work on my septic system this weekend so I will try it again Monday night.

John

[Bro. Noble]

John,

You probably didn't get your blade cover on just right.

It takes a little while to get used to everything and to know just what to watch for.

Be careful handeling those big logs.  They are way more likely to hurt you than your mill.

Noble

[johnjbc]

Success cut my first boards tonight :D   5/4 x 26 15 ft long didn't have any problem with the blade hitting the cover. Did find that the tire on the drive wheel was warn down to the top of the drive pulley. There was one in the spares box that was in better shape so I put it on.
Had some trouble turning the log the first 3 turns. The turner was hitting the log on the fence side of the center of gravity and pushing it back unto the loader. Tried the cant hook but I wasn't strong enough to slide it back. Got my 4 foot hi-lift tractor jack and was able to roll it far enough to catch it with the turner. Must be some trick to doing it without the jack. :P
Tomorrow will be my fires attempt at edging on the mill :
John

[Frank_Pender]

Johnjbc, it sounds as though your learning curve is moving up the scale in a rapid manner. :P  I am sure all of us have been there and still are on such a curve.  :P Those wide boards sure sound pretty. ;)

[ARKANSAWYER]

Johnjbc,
    Listen to your saw.  It will tell you what is going on.  The engine will lug and the blade makes it own sound.  Then the zzziiippp  of a nail as the blade goes through and the  &^&$#^%$*&#!!! as your hat hits the ground and you kick something. :D
  You to will some day put your scars on the mill and mark your claim.
  Oven cleaner will shine them blades up like new money.  I personaly like re-sharp but then I go through a box or two a week.  I went through a box today,  DanG it! ;D
  Watch that walnut as them trees attract nails like no other.
ARKANSAWYER

[sparks]

Sorry Johnjbc. The autoclutch option only fits mills 1997 and newer. There are some retrofits available for you mill. They are:
Roller toe boards, automatic water lube system. debarker option, (if you mill has an alternator).  

[johnjbc]

Well the first log is done. Made 530 board feet of lumber. Also had to make my first repair. The pulley that drives the chain sprocket that moves the carriage came loose and backed out. This left the bearing blackout and the chain to slip. Put it back together and tightened the set screw. Good as new.
I think I might need to align the saw head. Every time I turn the log over to relieve strain in the log I had to make a true up cut. 1/4 inch on 1 side of the ends tapering to nothing  and getting thinner in the center of the log. If it was due to log strain I think it would be thicker in the center on alternate sides. Anyone seed this before - see picture




Sparks I think I have the automatic water lube system although water bucket looks home made. When you disengage the clutch it pinches the hose around a pin and shuts the water off. Seem to work OK except the bucket lid leaks a little.
I do have an alternator.

John

[Tom]

That out-of-square condition, also called a "Diamond Cant" can be caused by 4 things.  The first is when your dogs are not at a 90 degree angle to the bed.

The second is when the clamp is worn and, in it's down position, will lift one side of the cant. (old style clamp)

The third is when a piece of bark gets under one side of the cant so that the cant doesn't lie flat on the bed.

The last is when the head of the mill or the blade is not parallel to the bed.  That can be caused by blade guides being improperly set or the bottom rail-rollers (cam rollers) needing adjustment.

Log stress will usually show up as thick ends and thin middles or visa versa.

[johnjbc]

Thanks for the reply.
It looks like its number 4  I used a framing square to check the dogs and they are close. Next I measured from the blade to the first bed rail it was 7 1/16 next to the cantilever and 7 5/16 at the other end checking the other bed rails I got readings from just over 7 to 7 1/2. Time to study the manual.
Another question If I lift on the outer edge of the carriage it goes up and down 1 inch. This seem like too much. Play.

[Bibbyman]

That sounds about right.  

You may want to go through the whole alignment procedure step by step.  It's important to have the blade guide rollers making the right amount of deflection (1/16" if I remember right) and the blade guide moving in and out parallel to the blade, etc. before you attempt to adjust the sawhead lower cam bearings.

This is the kind of thing the WM training session would really help - provided you can train on your mill.  Those guys would basically go through it and show you how it's done.  They'll spot any blade guides or sawhead cam bearings, etc. that need replacing.

[Tom]

Bibbyman is right.  It is a great help to get them to help the first time.  I took mine back to Newnan the first time because I was so unsure.  It cost me for the line up but I watched and was allowed hands-on as it was done.  I've never regretted it.

The slop when you pick up on the outside of the head is normal.  That is the gap between the bottom rail and the lock.  You need to leave a little gap to keep the cam rollers from binding.  The lock is a little triangular piece of metal opposite the bottom cam rollers that contacts the rail when you bottom the head for travel.  That is one reason that it is so important for the head of the mill to be bottomed and the outside put on its pin and the chains locked when you travel,  to make sure the head doesn't jump off of the rails and end up in the road. :D