Green mold and other stuff!

[Jacar]

Hey all knowing ones:

Still pretty new at this sawing and drying thing(1/12 yrs).  I cut some SYP for some 2x4's studs and 1/2" paneling for a garage to bedroom project.  I dried the wood in my solar kiln.  

Even in the kiln I got a lot of the green mold.  :-[ After talking to Dr. Gene on the woodweb I know what I did wrong.   ??? :-[

Question is: using the 2x4's as studs, does anyone know if the mold is harmful, and should I remove the mold before using in walls?  I can plane it off, I cut the boards oversize.

Other stuff:  What is the rule of thumb for sawing parallel to bark or parallel to the pith?  For example:  sawing construction lumber vs grade boards?

Thanks,

Jacar

[Tom]

Those algaes should only be skin deep  Mold tends to penetrate.  I clean up construction wood like that (if I'm to use it myself) with a 3:1 (water to bleach) solution of laundry bleach.  A spot of laundry soap in it will help to break the surface tension too.   I use a 3 gal. garden sprayer and just wet the surface.  It kills and bleachs the stuff almost immediately. You will be surprised by what it looks like in 30 minutes.

I've put bleach in a pressure washer and washed the boards too. Wow!

Most everything I cut that is destined for construction is cut from a log with the pith leveled.   Save the parallel-to-the-bark cutting for the fellows that are after grade.

Cut parallel to the pith and keep the heart check in one board and the grain centered. It makes for easier thinking, more usable wood and a stable board.

Take advantage of the cone-shape of a big log to cut shorter boards from the butt rather than slabbing it all off with one cut. Flame Grain comes from these cuts. (grain looks like a candle flame and makes pretty panels)

Check the knowledge base under Milling. :P

[beenthere]

Rancar (I could erase this message, and just say "do as Tom said" when he was faster on the draw).

You likely can get rid of the mold by spraying or dipping the 2x4's in a mixture of water with household bleach in it. It will kill the mold. The mold will likely not grow in the walls of your structure, but it may have an odor that you won't like.

Sawing parallel to the bark will give more strength to the construction lumber and parallel to the pith will give more grain pattern to the grade lumber. Whether "more" is significant, will depend on the taper in the log, and it will likely be hard to measure any real difference. Parallel to the bark will possibly give you longer outer surface boards where the higher quality wood is, allowing you to take out taper in the lower quality wood towards the center (maybe just before straightening the center cant when boxing in the pith). Just another of the myriad of sawing decisions one has to make when cutting up a log.

[Tom]

Old Lightning Strike here, "beenthere". :D

[Jacar]

Thanks Tom and Beenthere,

The green mold or algae, not sure what it is, is dry and powdery now.  Are you saying to spray the wood now and it will get rid of the green stuff?  I have tried spraying SYP right after sawing and before airdrying, and it will not stop the growth unless I have good airflow.  

My problem in the kiln was I closed my vents the first week, which is what you are supposed to do w/ hardwoods, but the moisture level in the kiln built up so high at night w/ the fans off that green stuff formed anyway.  Next time I open all vents and leave the fans on.

Jacar

[Tom]

It sounds like the kiln is like air drying down here.  It is very humid here and SYP is pretty wet.  we look for a place out of the direct sun and plenty of air flow to get the moisture out of the middle of the stack.

The powdery stuff on your wood may not be dead.  bleach will kill it.

[Jacar]

Tom,

It is very humid here also.  If I airdry I have to have a fan blowing on it.  We have been very wet lately and I can't trust for a breeze for airflow.  

The solar kiln depends on high humidity build up at night to help relieve drying stresses from the day.  That is why you leave the fans off at night.  I should have known better when I put the pine in there.  Now I understand what they mean by fast drying.  

I lined up my 2x's on sawhorses and just applied the chlorox mixture just now.  I'm fixin' to turn them over and do the other side.

Have great day 8)

Jacar

[solidwoods]

Don't know where you are but I'll bet it's south of Atlanta (sounds like you got humidity).
I cut stickers off the mill .75"-1" any thickness that I can get a 4'Long board from, then rip them 1.5" wide on the table saw.
I dry all my pine with 1.5" tall sticker to get the air in the stack.
If you can , air dry the SYP with 1.5" tall tickers 30+ days then Kiln.  If you have the time, air dry the 2xs fully and use them.  Air dired 2xs 15-20% are just fine to use.
Whacha building?
Got pics?
JIM

[Jacar]

Jim,

I live north of Houston, same county.  Used to be rural.  Becoming suburban quickly. :(  

I just got through adding a carport/garage on to my existing attached garage, which I am going to convert to a master bedroom.  In order to save money I thought I might saw all  the ceiling and wall paneling.  I wanted to try drying the 2x's for use as studs.  I have heard some say it is cheaper to buy studs than try to cut your own.  With all the work involved, I don't doubt that.  

Don't have any pics, since I am not in the digital camera era yet and my scanner is broken.  I like your 1.5" sticker height idea.  Normally I airdry all of my pine and keep a fan on it to increase airflow.   But this time the kiln was empty, so I tried it out and learned a few things.  Well gotta go go load some mesquite in the kiln now before it gets too hot!

Jack