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Woodland mills HM126 sawing SYP

Started by DanL, December 02, 2021, 03:41:17 PM

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DanL

Hi All. I searched for a while and did not satisfy my curiosity, so here goes:

Mill is scheduled to arrive by Dec. 31. I plan to saw some hardwoods. However, Most of the sawing will be SYP (southern yellow pine consisting of Loblolly, Longleaf and a small amount of slash) Most will be fresh logs but some will have been cut down a couple of months or longer.

I want to purchase some blades to have them available once the mill is assembled. A few blades are coming with the mill from Woodland mills.

Please suggest some choices of blades and hook angles for sawing SYP on the woodland mills HM126.

Please tell me why you like what what brand or tooth configuration that you are suggesting.

On a side note, every time I spell loblolly, I get the laughing emoji on my screen ????

Many thanks, DanL
From God's Farm in Alabama
"God bless America" and "Alba gu brath"

btulloh

Congrats on the new mill on the way. 

I've sawn quite a bit of SYP with my 126. I used the 10 degree Lennox blades that i ordered with the mill for a while and the ordered some 7 degree Kasco blades. The 10 degree worked fine in SYP but I had some with misaligned welds that made them hard to track properly. Not an inherent problem with the blade stock, but whoever welded them. May not be an issue anymore.  

In general I like the Kasco 7's better because they work better than the 10's in oak and knotty areas. Easier to get, less expensive and work well. Good combo. I need some 4 degree blades for harder wood like oak or osage than have been down for a while, but haven't added them yet. 

So there's one take on blades to start. Others will chime in shortly. 

One note on syp that's pretty universal: proper lube flow (not too much though) is critical to controlling pitch buildup. Pitch on the blade or the belts will cause sawing issues so it's really important to find a concoction and proper flow to keep the pitch from building up. (There are many threads on that and more than one way to get good results.) I have been tempted to add a brush on each band wheel as well, but haven't gotten around to it.

In general, syp is easy and a pleasure to saw (except for the pitch). Knots can cause waves because they are so hard, so that takes a little technique. Good trees make good logs and good logs makegood lumber. Summer sawing requires immediate stickering and good air flow or mold sets in immediately. 

Bark and especially pine bark collects a lotof grit over the years and will dull a blade in a big hurry.  It's best to minimize the number of times you saw into bark before getting a clean cant. Helps to remove a strip of bark on the entrance side of the log.  One surprise to new sawyers ishow fast a sharp blade gets dull, especially with these lower powered mills that run at slower blade speed. 

Happy sawing. Sawmilling is fun and interesting with a lot to learn. It's a good journey though.
HM126

KenMac

Being in East Alabama should make it convenient to get blades and resharp service. Both WoodMizer in Ga. and Cook's near Dothan are just a nice drive away. Either should be able to make reliable recommendations for what you need. Both are also sponsors of the forum, and that's a plus.
Cook's AC3667t, Cat Claw sharpener, Dual tooth setter, and Band Roller, Kubota B26 TLB, Takeuchi TB260C

APope

I picked up some 4 degree blades from Woodmizer for my mill. I really like the way they cut through knots in pine very flatly..
Unafraid to use my chainsaw, JD 2640, Frontier OS31

Blevdog

 

 
I've been using Cook's Ultra 10 blades on my HM122 without any problems.  I have only been sawing green and dry Blue Pine, Red Fir and Cedar.  I use winter wiper fluid for my lube. No problems with pitch buildup.  Good luck with your new mill.

Southside

You are going to find that the long leaf gives you more pitch issues than anything else.  Soap and water will work well for most species but with long leaf you are probably going to need to get into Cotton Picker Spindle Lube Cleaner or even diesel fuel for your band drip.  Beautiful lumber, just makes you work for it.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

DanL

Thanks everyone for your input. I am approximately 1.5 hours from either wood mizer or Cooks. However, I wanted your experienced input before I travel to either vendor or order any blades for that matter.

Many thanks for your input. DanL
From God's Farm in Alabama
"God bless America" and "Alba gu brath"

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