Got a Husky at the TSC . Had toasted the old one. Works fine...........but seemed like it was jamming up. Quit and went in because of the storm coming in Friday , took the side off , cleaned er up , put it back together and chain still would slide. Checked the groove of the blade and was all clear. Found another chain , put it on and it slid fine.
I noticed the teeth of the first chain had some edge to it and I presume it's got to be the gears on one end or the other. Is it too much tension? I'd been runnin' tight as I'm trimmin' off a lot of little volunteer crap horizontal at ground level that I don't want sharp but which are too big for the bushhog on the trail I'm building around the perimeter of the farm.
Any ideas why inside teeth get sharper? ??? ???
Didn't follow too well what was happening... ::) ::)
Maybe others will be able to figure it out.
jamming...??
chain still would slide..??
another chain...it would slid fine...??
teeth had some edge to it...??
got to the gears...??
inside teeth get sharper..??
I just don't follow..sorry.
Sounds to me like the original chain isn't the right gage for the bar. It's too wide and the wear is the "sharpening" you see.
I'm thinking that cutting at ground level has dulled your chain and sharpened the depth gauges .
Sounds to me like the drivelinks have such burrs on them it won't run in the bar anymore - running it too tight, or the sprocket is shot ?
Mike says it best..................way better than I could.
"Drivelinks getting burrs".......
.......Is that a common problem? I'll check the gears over. Any suggestions on how to handle?
Lud, if you have the right chain on the right sprocket, [coming from TSC?] who knows? It shouldn't happen, unless you have the chain WAAAY to tight. If you have some patience, take that chain to the bench grinder, and carefully take all those burrs off the drive links, so they're flat again [look at another or new chain] You should be able to run it again. But not as tight!
Check to see if the drive sprocket is in place on the clutch drum. Joe
Also, on the older saws where the clutch/sprocket were one piece, you just set the chain in there, it was always "engaged" on the sprocket. Some of the new rim type where the sprocket is changeable by itself, you really have to be sure the drive links are engaged in the rim when you put it together. Sounds to me maybe this wasn't so, and the chain was being driven just by the tension on the tips of the drivelinks against the spur, rather than being down in there where they belong.
Quote from: Lud on March 12, 2008, 07:54:09 AM
Mike says it best..................way better than I could.
"Drivelinks getting burrs".......
.......Is that a common problem? I'll check the gears over. Any suggestions on how to handle?
Hey Lud, did the new chain come off of the bar while you were running the saw?
Might have come across the same thing. :-\
The chain was near new and the sprocket was new.
Hasn't been used a lot, but has been used to rip that big oak log.
Was actually ripping the log the other day and took the saw apart to clean it when I noticed this.
Chain was tight, but not real tight.
Any thoughts ???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10577/100_4853.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10577/100_4857.jpg)
Quote from: Furby on April 28, 2008, 11:53:55 PM
Any thoughts ???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10577/100_4853.jpg)
I see that type of damage to the drive links on harvester chain all the time. What I see are those ridges on the back side of the drivers that look like something has flattened the back of the drive link and caused that ridge on the side of the drive link. I'm not sure what causes the damage, but it usually occurs on chains that have been thrown off violently.
Two solutions can be used. The quick and dirty way is to take a grinder to the side of those drive plates and remove that side ridge so that the driver slides easily thru the groove in the bar. The other way is to replace that section with the damaged drive links.
Either way the chain will be usable but will cause higher wear to the drive sprocket because it will not have uniform wear on the drive links.
That chain already shows signs of overheating that could be caused by those damaged drive links or by the rakers being too high.
Unless you are a habitual chain in the dirt type, I usually recommend a drive sprocket for every 3 -4 chains. New batch of chains = new chain drive.
On what is that chain laying?
I would suspect too tight of a chain, nose sprocket worn or putting too much pressure on the bar with the bucking teeth. Too much pressure and too little oil. Is your bar wearing too? Has it got burrs? Is the oil trough clean? Might be a symptom of just being too aggressive.
Rakers were just taken down and the entire chain is this way.
As I said, the drive sprocket was new and the chain was almost new.
I'm pretty careful not to hit dirt, but we all know it happens from time to time.
It's laying on my trailer, so what you see is weathered plywood Tom.
It's a soild nose bar, no nose sprocket.
There was a small amount of wear on the bar, just a light burr.
There was sawdust in the bar blocking the oil for a very short amount of time.
I was checking to make sure that oil was flowing every few minutes by reving it and watching the oil fly off onto a block of wood.
At the point I noticed the oil had slowed down, I stopped for the day.
Too agressive might be it, as I was ripping with the bar burried.
The ridge concerns me less than the mushroom on the driver tip.
Quote from: Furby on April 29, 2008, 12:28:52 PM
Rakers were just taken down and the entire chain is this way.
As I said, the drive sprocket was new and the chain was almost new.
I'm pretty careful not to hit dirt, but we all know it happens from time to time.
It's laying on my trailer, so what you see is weathered plywood Tom.
It's a soild nose bar, no nose sprocket.
There was a small amount of wear on the bar, just a light burr.
There was sawdust in the bar blocking the oil for a very short amount of time.
I was checking to make sure that oil was flowing every few minutes by reving it and watching the oil fly off onto a block of wood.
At the point I noticed the oil had slowed down, I stopped for the day.
Too agressive might be it, as I was ripping with the bar burried.
The ridge concerns me less than the mushroom on the driver tip.
Jason, I've seen similar wear on the side of drive links from a bar that was not perfectly straight. If the tips of the drive links are mushrooming then look in the rim to see if that is where it's hitting.
I wouldn't worry about it. It's still working alright isn't ??? Those burs will wear right off. I've had chains come off or catch hardware in a tree and bur three or four drivers in row to the point they won't fit all the way into the bar. Just put the chain back on and tighten it up a bit, rev the saw a few times and tighten it back up. The burs will wear right off. I don't change a drive sprocket until the drivers strip out. I noticed the one on the 2186 is looking a bit rough and probably won't last much longer. I figure there's close to a thousand cords on it. Somewhere around here I've got a tube of new sprockets. Somewhere..... ;) :)
from the looks--drive sprocket is really wore bad furby---
Furby,
Are you sure that the pitch of the chain and sprocket match? That`s an unusual wear pattern, especially if you consider that there is no wear evident on the rim of the sprocket where the chain should ride but the driver pockets look sort of peened. I wouldn`t be surprised to find that the pitch of the sprocket is shorter than that of the chain.
Chains that I`ve seen thrown usually have a burr on the front side of the drive tang. A Dremel or similar tool makes short work of removing that burr.
Jokers -
A sprocket and chain pitch mismatch is just what I was thinking. I also wondered if perhaps he was cutting with a dull chain, requiring extra pressure (and causing more drag).
John Mc
I can't say the chain wasn't dull at some point, but I didn't cut all that long with it dull either.
I'll try to match up the chains and maybe pull the sprocket for a better look when I get a chance.
It's still working and I'm not really worried about it, but was interested in what was going on, so as to possibly prevent it in the future.
Furby -
The fact that you mentioned a new drive sprocket and a relatively new chain (IIRC) is what got me thinking about a possible mismatch. From what I can see on the chain, it looks like a Carlton .404" pitch (note the "B3" on the drive link, which is used on their .404" pitch). From the shape of the depth gauge, it looks like a Carlton .404" pitch semi-chisel see the following link: http://www.sawchain.com/products/productdescChain.asp?SeriesID=2 (http://www.sawchain.com/products/productdescChain.asp?SeriesID=2)
If I'm right about this chain, it's intended for mechanical harvesters or sawmills, and says "Not recommended for hand held use" (probably because it has no anti-kickback features, not even the ramped depth guage, which is pretty standard on even "pro" chains intended for handheld use).
Are you using a .404 pitch sprocket? If you have a .375 pitch sprocket on your saw, that could be the problem. A misfit might also have something to do with the oiling problems you mentioned. On current production Husqvarna saws, only their two biggest (94 and 119 cc) are recommended for .404 pitch. Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree here. I don't know your application. Perhaps you are set up for .404 pitch chain. That just seemed a bit unusual to me for a handheld saw. Maybe you're using it in a sawmill?
John Mc
Just off the top of my head......... I'm not sure on the pitch of the sprocket. ::)
The chain was brand new from the saw shop I bought the 3120 used from.
He made the loop in front of me, but I didn't look close at anything.
I ran that chain AND the chain for the 72" bar on the 3120.
Last Fall I moved the short bar and chain over to the 395.
I had just replaced the sprocket on the 395, simply because I had it apart.
As of a couple days ago, I'm also running the 72" bar and chain on the 395.
The oiling problem seems to be from packed sawdust due to ripping.
I just have to watch it and clean it out from time to time.
I know to try for the long curls, but I still get some fine dust at some points in the cut.
As I said, I'll see if I can pull the sprocket and compare the chains and such, as well as the old sprocket. :)
I missed the fact that you are running some monster saws there. The .404 pitch makes more sense now. However, according to Husqvarna, the 395 saw can run either .375 or .404. Maybe they gave you the wrong sprocket. When you have it apart, see if any of the part numbers are still legible on it.
I tend to run on the opposite end of the size spectrum... I want light weight and shorter bars when working in the woods. I'm just not in good enough shape to run the big heavy stuff for an extended time. Besides, it's pretty rare here in New England to run across something that a 16" bar won't take down (though I might have to come at it from 2 sides on occasion).
Good luck with it, and let us know what you find...
John Mc
Quote from: John Mc on May 01, 2008, 09:52:09 PM
I'm just not in good enough shape to run the big heavy stuff for an extended time.
Me either! :o
My back was real sore today and I have a large bruise on my inner thigh from using my leg as a piviot point.
The 3120 does balance the bigger bar better. ;D
Any pics Furby?? we like pics ya know.... ;D ;D
Whatcha cuttin?
Quote from: beenthere on May 01, 2008, 10:44:37 PM
Whatcha cuttin?
Well I sliced up a big old pine I had in the yard as a test run to see how well the 395 handled the 72" bar.
But mostly I'm still working on that big old Oak. ::)
Second log is now in half, just gotta make the halves smaller next trip. :)
OK Furby and Lud -
It's been a couple of weeks... the curiosity is killing me. What did you find out about your unusual chain/sprocket wear?
John Mc
I'd like to apologize for not checking this thread more often. Still getting used to retirement. I thought there'd be more time for the wife and the dogs and the farm and the forum and the mill and the rest of it all.
Hardly know how I ever had time to work. I know.........others have said this before. It is fun getting it all in balance.
A different chain has run without problem. I have'nt deburred the first to date.
I think it's just amazing how much I learn from all you folks . That a little problem being posted can give rise to such a large amount of discussion and information. Extremely helpful. Thanks