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Logosol Big Mill Pro with what chainsaw?

Started by Biocmp, August 18, 2014, 04:27:23 PM

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Biocmp

Just curious if anyone has used the Logosol system for small-time milling? I really want to pull the trigger on a Lucas but I don't think i can justify it at this juncture (although I was really close before we found out we had a child on the way).

Now I just have to wait a couple years and show my wife how addicted I am, she'll get tired of me breathing in fumes and using a chainsaw to mill and ultimately succumb to my grand plan to get a Lucas 10-30 with slabber
:D

For now, it looks like my only recourse is to feed the addiction from a different avenue. The Logosol Big Mill Pro looks like it'll do everything I need to keep me supplied with some good boards for woodworking. It says 90+ cc saws, so I assume I should go as big as possible: Husky 3120xp or Stihl 880 

Oddly enough, the Big Mill Pro says it requires modification to fit the Husky 3120xp and I believe the Stihl requires some type of nuts to fit the timberjig.

I know there aren't many CSM'ers here but does anyone have some advice? I've been trying to do searches but it says the search daemon can not be accessed??

Really I just want the wood for my own projects so: Cherry, Ash, Maple, Walnut, Oak, QS Sycamore or Sassafras, Fruit trees, etc.  I prefer QS or Rift Sawn to minimize movement in service after it's been dried appropriately, and it looks like the Logosol system allows you to move the guides as you saw.

Hope to hear some suggestions.

mad murdock

I have a Timberjig. You can adapt it to any saw, with the correct sized coupling nuts, washers and bolts. I put mine on my Promac 700. It is made to bolt on to any stihl, 044/ms441thru066/660. Not sure on the 088/880. They have the mounting nuts for the husky as well. Just specify when ordering. I haven't used the bigmill pro, but it looks like a good system, and will produce true lumber(very straight).
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

mikeb1079

Quote(although I was really close before we found out we had a child on the way).

:D :D  yep that'll get ya.  we have 2 under 3 and i sometimes wonder what i used to do with all my money..... :D

anyways, your plan sounds good, personally i'd look for a used husky 395 or stihl 066.  seems like there's way more of those around for maybe 500ish than the big dog saws.  course, i still have a 3120 sitting in the basement that i haven't even tried to start since i got it....did i mention that we have 2 little kids?   8)
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

Lazyguy

I have the big mill basic. And use a stihl 660.
I purchased this so I could quarter large city trees.

The nose of the saw is not supported so I can go as deep into the wood as my blade.
It's a lot of work with a chainsaw!!!
And don't forget without extra support equipment, wood is HEAVY.

The stihl 880 uses a larger nut than the 660.
M8 vs. m10, you'll need to specify size.
Buy a few extra nuts, I chewed up some threads due to vibration of the metal plate.

Logosol does make a nice system. If I were to do it again I'd just buy the big mill timberjig, and make the wooden guide.

Or I might have even have purchased the Granberg Alaskan Sawmill, and the Granberg Mini-Mill.
Nice combo and l lot cheaper!

There is no perfect system, but I think they will all get the job done.
Happy sawing.

Dave.


tcg


I have a Logosol M8 and a Timberjig and use a Husky 372 XP and 395 XP with both of them.
As long as the rip chain is sharp I've had very little problem.
I found no need to modify either chainsaw to work with the M8 or the timberjig.
The system is slower than other mills but it is what I could afford at the time so patience is required.
I purchased both for milling construction and woodworking lumber.

Tom

richhiway

I have a post here.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,73515.msg1113039.html#msg1113039

I started cutting with a old Sthil farmboss and then I bought a used 044. I am cutting mostly pine and hemlock. Both saws work fine. The 044 will go down a twenty four inch eight foot in less then a minute. Once you have the cant,it doesn't take a lot of power.  I use ripping chain on a 30 inch or 20 inch bar.
Woodmizer LT 40
New Holland 35 hp tractor
Stihl Chainsaws
Ford 340 Backhoe

Baron

I am buying a 660 stihl to quarter many of the large logs that I've been given by local tree services. I want to run them through my Norwood mill and it only handles 29".  The saw that I'm buying has a 36" and 25" bar to go with it . They are both .050. Will I live to regret not going .063?
Also, when quartering these 50-70" x 8-10' logs I'll never be exactly at 90degrees to the grain. You know how it is you roll around the dogs over and over so the angle changes unlike when using an alaskan mill. So will a full skip work in this environment or should I stick with 35 degree chisel?

mad murdock

Logosol recommends .050" gauge and the stihl 63PMX (picco) ripping chain. If you set up with this chain on your saw, you will NOT regret it!  The kerf is 1/4" which is key to speeding up the CSM process. On my Alaskan MK III I started milling with 3/8" chain and made the switch to the picco after I had milled a few thousand bd ft, I realized a good 30% increase in feed rate. With my bumblebee sawmill, the feed rate is a bit faster yet, as the saw configuration on the mill always keeps the bar at a good angle to the log(faster cut, larger chips). 
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

boatman

I use a 395xp with a few different granberg setups. I have found it to be plenty of saw, I have never cut over 24 inch.

When I first started I broke every thing at least once. That's how I learn I guess. Now it is much easier. The only problems I have had with the saw is bolts vibrating out.

I like the granberg for cutting curved logs.

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