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tawilson, mroldstyle, Andries, Chuck White, newoodguy78, quilbilly, Jeff, Southside, doc henderson, chet, okmulch, thecfarm, woodroe, Jack S, OntarioAl, Texas Ranger, Old Greenhorn, TBrown99, booman, lxskllr, mojo88, drlewis, beenthere, Plankton
Recent posts
#1
The Outdoor Board / Re: BIRDS
Last post by Chuck White - Today at 09:54:52 AMThe Orioles are becoming regulars, in and out a lot.
I only see a hummer once in a while, maybe 6-8 times a day!
Racoon's been bothering my Oriole feeder during the night, so I started putting the feeder in the refrigerator on the back deck at dark!
I only see a hummer once in a while, maybe 6-8 times a day!
Racoon's been bothering my Oriole feeder during the night, so I started putting the feeder in the refrigerator on the back deck at dark!
#2
Drying and Processing / Re: Air Drying vs Kiln Drying
Last post by tawilson - Today at 09:54:20 AMLL, I think that the benefits of kiln drying will vary depending upon where in the world / country that your lumber is sourced.
My my area (NC USA), we have a lot of lyctid powder post beetles that will inhabit milled lumber. The sterilization cycle performed at the end of the drying process will kill the
[/quote]
I don't disagree with that Scott but the same argument applies... there are plenty of items about that pre date the common use of KD lumber and the borers haven't eaten them yet.
And you know as well as I that heat sterilization will kill borers but should the material get wet again borer re-infestation can occur. I also know that you guys now have far more restrictions around the use of chemical barriers to insect pests than we do here. Was it always that way in NC or was the use of borates, oil or pitch or some other preventative common there 100 years ago? Lead based paint would be pretty effective too I'd imagine.
I'm not saying kiln drying isn't a good thing or that its sometimes not the best thing, so much as [/quote]
I don't disagree with you at all (and even have several old pieces of furniture in my own home that were built from air dried material).
As usual, Robert has very eloquently explained the logic in our part of the world for focusing primarily on selling kiln dried lumber. And for us it's also a marketing point to help differentiate us from the competition.
Bugs were not as much of a problem in other parts of the US where I have lived, but they sure are here in the SE portion of the country.
[/quote]
Does air drying during a northern winter, with temps getting below 0°F serve the same purpose as kiln drying for sterilization?
My my area (NC USA), we have a lot of lyctid powder post beetles that will inhabit milled lumber. The sterilization cycle performed at the end of the drying process will kill the
[/quote]
I don't disagree with that Scott but the same argument applies... there are plenty of items about that pre date the common use of KD lumber and the borers haven't eaten them yet.
And you know as well as I that heat sterilization will kill borers but should the material get wet again borer re-infestation can occur. I also know that you guys now have far more restrictions around the use of chemical barriers to insect pests than we do here. Was it always that way in NC or was the use of borates, oil or pitch or some other preventative common there 100 years ago? Lead based paint would be pretty effective too I'd imagine.
I'm not saying kiln drying isn't a good thing or that its sometimes not the best thing, so much as [/quote]
I don't disagree with you at all (and even have several old pieces of furniture in my own home that were built from air dried material).
As usual, Robert has very eloquently explained the logic in our part of the world for focusing primarily on selling kiln dried lumber. And for us it's also a marketing point to help differentiate us from the competition.
Bugs were not as much of a problem in other parts of the US where I have lived, but they sure are here in the SE portion of the country.
[/quote]
Does air drying during a northern winter, with temps getting below 0°F serve the same purpose as kiln drying for sterilization?
#3
Forestry and Logging / Re: Felling wedge choices
Last post by thecfarm - Today at 09:48:53 AMThen if you have to leave the tree, the wedges are on the stump.
Seem like we have all had to remove the head and leave the chain and bar behind.
Seem like we have all had to remove the head and leave the chain and bar behind.
#4
General Board / Re: Ticks ticks ticks
Last post by woodroe - Today at 09:45:46 AMAnyone else overwhelmed with ticks this spring ?
Never seen so many . But we didn't have a dog for
10 years so that might make a difference. He's picking them up
on every walk. 10 min. walk this morning, picked 5 off him,
both deer and wood ticks.
Never seen so many . But we didn't have a dog for
10 years so that might make a difference. He's picking them up
on every walk. 10 min. walk this morning, picked 5 off him,
both deer and wood ticks.
#5
Forestry and Logging / Re: Felling wedge choices
Last post by beenthere - Today at 09:37:25 AMI often, not always, use a wedge to keep the tree from setting back onto the bar. More than once, wish I'd thought to do that before it happened. More of an insurance thing, than a "must do" as it is so much easier than pounding on a wedge to raise that tree back up.
#6
General Board / Re: plastic sheet cover on roo...
Last post by beenthere - Today at 09:30:24 AMNot sure where you are located. But same solution as your sauna problem.
#7
Forest Education / Re: Current Emerald Ash Borer ...
Last post by beenthere - Today at 09:24:19 AMI think, in reality, the EAB has won this battle. Sorry to say, but the EAB was a few years ahead of the tell-tale signs it left behind so the knee-jerk reactions (i.e. don't move firewood) that likely didn't have any real connection to stopping them were "too late" happening.
#8
Drying and Processing / Re: What to do when wet bulb r...
Last post by TBrown99 - Today at 09:10:21 AMAs an update, my neighbor who does furniture making brought over 30 steam bent lamp posts in black walnut and white oak about 8' long 4x1 yesterday, which he needs to re-dry post-steaming. Results after 24-hrs are good though I lowered temps to 110 overnight (from 120). He's telling me this would be a regular request and he wants to ramp up his product. He normally let's them air dry 2 weeks in his shop, taking up a lot of room.
It seems that with temps now reaching 70 F outdoors, overheating and exhaust fan activation is occurring regularly, so I'm trying to figure out how to manage the auxiliary heat (which is required because unit heater can't maintain 120). The options involve adjusting the flow rate and temperature of hydronic system to radiant fins... but directing all flow from 3 system areas to only the drying room and adjusting flow level at the valve to this one location. Guess testing will show what works best.
Is it best to mount the powered exhaust fan low? Is this where it's meant to be positioned.
Waiting to proceed with adding insulation as warmer outdoors temps begin.
Still preparing white pine 5th charge test in the kiln room. Should be interesting with the new Lignomat system. With this system, it seems to be working fine though I've not evaluated the EMC wafer system, only the three temperature probes. It seems like a great system though the manual isn't entirely current as far as wiring requirements go.
My big question now is how critical is it to minimize the exhaust fan coming on. I understand that maintaining a certain moisture level in the kiln works best and frequestion activation of exhaust makes this harder to maintain. I expect that like cooking food in an oven, it will just take some practice regulating the heat. But I'm still trying to figure out how "bad" it is to dry by allowing moisture / heat escape via the exhaust fan -- whether it's activate or just though slow loss when it's off via the poor seal in this area.
Finally, while I've know this for a while, the other 2/3 of this side shed would work very well as a pre-drying area... so I need to start looking at configuring this area for drying. Same applies to our 25'x30' back shed area.
It seems that with temps now reaching 70 F outdoors, overheating and exhaust fan activation is occurring regularly, so I'm trying to figure out how to manage the auxiliary heat (which is required because unit heater can't maintain 120). The options involve adjusting the flow rate and temperature of hydronic system to radiant fins... but directing all flow from 3 system areas to only the drying room and adjusting flow level at the valve to this one location. Guess testing will show what works best.
Is it best to mount the powered exhaust fan low? Is this where it's meant to be positioned.
Waiting to proceed with adding insulation as warmer outdoors temps begin.
Still preparing white pine 5th charge test in the kiln room. Should be interesting with the new Lignomat system. With this system, it seems to be working fine though I've not evaluated the EMC wafer system, only the three temperature probes. It seems like a great system though the manual isn't entirely current as far as wiring requirements go.
My big question now is how critical is it to minimize the exhaust fan coming on. I understand that maintaining a certain moisture level in the kiln works best and frequestion activation of exhaust makes this harder to maintain. I expect that like cooking food in an oven, it will just take some practice regulating the heat. But I'm still trying to figure out how "bad" it is to dry by allowing moisture / heat escape via the exhaust fan -- whether it's activate or just though slow loss when it's off via the poor seal in this area.
Finally, while I've know this for a while, the other 2/3 of this side shed would work very well as a pre-drying area... so I need to start looking at configuring this area for drying. Same applies to our 25'x30' back shed area.
#9
Forestry and Logging / Re: Felling wedge choices
Last post by Magicman - Today at 08:47:33 AMI have certainly gotten myself into a "felling" pickle before, but not that time. 
I once had the wind to pick up and set the tree back on the bar/chain. Wedges would not lift it off, so I removed the saw head and left. When I went back later, the tree was on the ground and of course, the bar/chain were laying on the stump.
I once had the wind to pick up and set the tree back on the bar/chain. Wedges would not lift it off, so I removed the saw head and left. When I went back later, the tree was on the ground and of course, the bar/chain were laying on the stump.
#10
Forestry and Logging / Re: Felling wedge choices
Last post by doc henderson - Today at 08:36:30 AMHow old were you in that picture MM? 
