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Loader tractor has no spark

Started by Ford_man, September 13, 2020, 12:41:31 PM

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Ford_man

My 1965 JD 2010 Loader tractor doesn't have any spark to the spark plugs. I have put new Plugs,new wires,new coil,new points & condenser,new cap rotor,new ignition switch,new wire from switch, I have power to the coil. Can anybody suggest something I have missed?

thecfarm

Is the rotor button moving? I had a Ford that sheared the fiber pin. That made me slow down quick!!
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

mike_belben

Does your wiring reflect these setups?









Praise The Lord

trimguy

I second the gear pin on the bottom of distributor. A buddy had an old ford truck and the first time ( it has happened several times ) it didn't shear clean. It would run but run bad , could set the timing or anything. Now when it messes up it the first place we look.

Corley5

Used to get a faulty condensor new out of the box on occasion.  I've got a tester for them around here somewhere. 
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

Corley5

We had the distributor shaft turned and bushed in our 2010.  It would chew up the inside of the cap.  It always ate points and fouled #4 plug.  That stopped when I installed a Petronix electronic ignition system.  It was trouble free and in the tractor when it left the farm.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

moodnacreek

Pop the cap off and work or short the points with the ign. on. Should spark. Now pull center wire out of cap and hold near metal and short points again to make spark jump. If that works check to see if distributor turns when cranking motor.

trimguy

Forgot to mention, you can grab the rotor button and try to turn it both directions and not have to pull the distributor.

Ford_man

Cannot turn the rotor And don't get any spark.

sawguy21

old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Ford_man


Ford_man


Roundhouse

I went through this two weeks ago when I did a tune-up on my Allis-Chalmers loader. Swapped backwards old parts for new, last thing I swapped back in were the old points and it fired right up. The new points were junk, which surprised me as I had gapped, rechecked and triple checked them. Not saying this is your issue but sometimes the culprit isn't obvious.
Woodland Mills HM130, 1995 F350 7.3L, 1994 F350 flatbed/crane, 1988 F350 dump, Owatonna 770 rough terrain forklift, 1938 Allis-Chalmers reverse WC tractor loader, 1979 Ford CL340 Skid Steer, 1948 Allis-Chalmers B, 1988 Yamaha Moto-4 200, various chain saws

Ford_man

I just changed the points and condenser still nothing

Ford_man

I have decided to load it up and take it to a JD dealer and say make it run.

PoginyHill

Seems the only thing left is the coil (secondary windings are open internally) or a bad ground from the engine block back to the battery.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

square1

I won't admit I was there ~ a month ago.  Just before dragging it (Ford Jubilee) out to the back forty and putting a bullet in it, I checked the (newly installed and had it running before it sputtered and died) point gap. There was a gap,  it wasn't enough to produce a strong spark.  Regapped the points and she fired right up. I'll deny this if anyone ever asks. 

Ford_man

I tried opening up the points still no spark.
I want to thank all that tried to help me.

mike_belben

Did the breaker plate and condensor all have continutity to ground?  

Does the coil read low ohms across the posts and open circuit from either post to the spark plug wire terminal?  

You may have a bad primary plug wire.  Ive had that twice. 
Praise The Lord

chrissheerman

Try watching a guy on youtube channel named vise grip garage or even deboss garage both have done a number of videos trouble shooting this same type of problem on cars trucks and equipment. one thing you did name is battery. apparently you need enough to get coil excited to fire the plugs. Could check see what voltage at coil is compare that to what battery says should be really close if not theres a bad connection or something isn't getting grounded good. Good luck either way my deere dealer I told them to pith off recently and that ill never be back took splitting my fathers tractor in half to determine I was right the electric pto clutch or brake need to be replaced which is only sold as a set they said but took the expert deere tech $1600 worth of labor to figure why pto when switched off would still spin with no load of implement to stop it. 

square1

I read you have power at the points, but is there spark? See post #6 above. If there's spark at points but not plugs could be timing.

thecfarm

I sure do hope you post the answer to the problem.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Don P

9 times out of 10 for me its a ground problem somewhere.

square1


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