Stainless buck covers

Dana Stanley · June 24, 2019, 02:32:15 PM

Can anyone point me in the direction of stainless bunk covers. I checked the Woodland Mills site, as they have them on the HM130, but I didn't see them for sale as an accessory!

Pabene · June 24, 2019, 03:39:25 PM

I would order stainless steel covers from a sheet-metal shop in your aria. Remove one bunk from your mill and and bring it to the shop, ask them to make covers for you. I am sure you then can epoxi glue it to your bunks, clamp the covers as the epoxi cures.

Dana Stanley · June 24, 2019, 04:58:23 PM

Can someone with a HM30 tell me how thick the covers that Woodland mills uses are? I'm thinking they just protect the paint so the bunks don't rust out!(edited-Also protect wood from stains) I don't know that I need stainless. I was thinking 26ga zinc Galvanized from HD is 26.00 for a 2x3 sheet. I have a shear and brake that can cut and bend that. The bunk has holes already for bolts. Any thoughts on that? I just don't know what is commonly uses on 3x6 bunks.
I don't want to spend too much more on this, as so far it is just a hobby. I'm a yankee, we are notoriously cheap. That's why we came up with Yankee ingenuity! 8) I hate moving emojis! That's why although good advice,(thanks) I'm not jumping on the have them fabricated idea.

btulloh · June 24, 2019, 05:16:10 PM

I don't worry about it on my hm126. Using it keeps the rust off. If it sits, I'd spray something on to protect it. Maybe clean it, ospho it, and hit with a little paint. After three years, mine is not hurting.

Dana Stanley · June 24, 2019, 05:43:28 PM

Quote from: btulloh on June 24, 2019, 05:16:10 PM
I don't worry about it on my hm126. Using it keeps the rust off. If it sits, I'd spray something on to protect it. Maybe clean it, ospho it, and hit with a little paint. After three years, mine is not hurting.

From what I understand, and have seen, the rusting metal can quickly stain some wood. Although so far I just make sheds and fence posts. I do want to make some finer wood projects. Signs for one thing. That was a big reason for getting it, to make wider planks for signs, and cedar if I can get my hands on some. Not real common here anymore.

Magicman · June 24, 2019, 08:45:50 PM

It's not necessarily rust but the tannic acid particularly in Oak that reacts with iron and stains the lumber blue. The stainless steel covers isolate the iron in the sawmill from the tannic acid in the log/cant.

The same thing that happens when metal is in Oak and some other species.

There was no doubt that this Walnut log contained metal, and it did.

Neither was there any doubt about this White Oak log on the right.

twobears · June 24, 2019, 09:53:28 PM

it really wouldn't matter how thick it was as long as there all made with the same guage metal..i'de use stainless steel tho.i'de use 1/8 inch or maybe alittle less.

Dana Stanley · June 25, 2019, 07:27:32 AM

Quote from: Magicman on June 24, 2019, 08:45:50 PM
It's not necessarily rust but the tannic acid particularly in Oak that reacts with iron and stains the lumber blue. The stainless steel covers isolate the iron in the sawmill from the tannic acid in the log/cant.

In my short time sawing I have seen it. One day it began to rain so I went in, and overnight the cant on the mill developed a large deep stains. (Oak)

Hilltop366 · June 25, 2019, 07:44:03 AM

I used wood (spruce) with counter sunk bolts over the steel on my DIY mill.

Crusarius · June 25, 2019, 08:01:39 AM

Definitely do not use galvanized it will get you nothing other than where you are now. Stainless is the only way. I would recommend 16 ga wrapped completely over the bunk then bolt each side to the edges of the bunk. that way it will not move or get peeled when sliding logs around.

I noticed with my mill I got the stains on the wood immediately just from flipping them around. I am looking at doing the stainless steel bunks but need to figure out how with my clamp setup.

YellowHammer · June 25, 2019, 09:08:28 AM

I made mine using basic sheet metal tools. 1/16" stainless, bent into a U shape, slipped over the tops of the bunks and sheet metal screwed into the sides. They keep the wood from turning blue.

RAYAR · June 25, 2019, 10:15:28 AM

I worked with sheet metal including stainless for the last 30+ years and I would recommend not going less than 16 guage (1/16") if possible for bunk covers.

Ray

Tropical Sawyer · June 25, 2019, 06:53:13 PM

Can't help you on where to buy them from, but if you want to make your own, I measured mine which came from the factory and they are 1.7mm thick.

Definitely make them out of stainless. A benefit which I don't think anyone has mentioned yet is that stainless is very smooth and "slippery" compared to galvanized. This makes it much easier to turn and handle logs on the mill.

They also look pretty flash

.

As Crusarius mentioned the factory ones are wrapped around the tops of the bunks and bolted in place on all 4 corners. Seems to work pretty well.

Tropical Sawyer · June 25, 2019, 06:58:29 PM

Here's a picture of mine.

lxskllr · June 25, 2019, 08:16:10 PM

Would aluminum work? That would shave some $ over stainless.

D6c · June 25, 2019, 10:00:47 PM

Don't know what size your rails are but I bought stainless covers from woodmizer for my mill. (2" rails). Weren't too expensive.

Crusarius · June 26, 2019, 07:35:23 AM

Aluminum is to soft and won't last. Will deform first time you drop a log on it.

Dana Stanley · June 26, 2019, 12:13:48 PM

Quote from: Tropical Sawyer on June 25, 2019, 06:58:29 PM

Here's a picture of mine.

. Thanks for the pic. I had ordered 24ga sheet but after seeing you post I canceled and will look for 14 ga. Which should match yours! Thanks again.

Crusarius · June 26, 2019, 12:18:15 PM

16 gauge should be fine that is 0.060"

Dana Stanley · July 01, 2019, 09:35:55 PM

I ordered a pc of 16Ga. 304 stainless 24x24 for $40.00 from ebay. Now I need to find someone to cut and bend it. I don't think my finger brake/shear will handle it.

Crusarius · July 01, 2019, 10:02:21 PM

it is not rated to handle it but it might. may need to do some reinforcing to make it work. as for cutting sheet metal best way I have found is plasma. next best would be metal cutting circular saw. Jigsaw is last option.

Bandsaw or porta band will work great as long as you have a deep enough throat.

YellowHammer · July 01, 2019, 11:48:12 PM

It will cut easy on a manual, foot operated shear, and decent brake.

frazman · July 02, 2019, 07:15:05 AM

The stainless steel covers are sold as an extra from Woodland Mills at 2 per set.

I will have some made from a metal shop once I purchase the HM 126 this fall...

Dana Stanley · July 04, 2019, 09:09:23 PM

Quote from: frazman on July 02, 2019, 07:15:05 AM
The stainless steel covers are sold as an extra from Woodland Mills at 2 per set.

I will have some made from a metal shop once I purchase the HM 126 this fall...

I e-mailed them, they want $75.00 for two, I need 5. Making them makes sense for me, as I have the time and ability to do it myself. I convince myself that doing this stuff on a low budget is a fun challenge! I isn't an unreasonable price, but again this is a hobby for now, so if I can do it for less I need to.