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Author Topic: 4/4 / framing / timber framing  (Read 421 times)

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Offline Lynwoo

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4/4 / framing / timber framing
« on: April 14, 2021, 09:18:18 PM »
I have a question that likely has many answers but here goes.

When I saw almost exclusively the log dictates what process l use 

I start with hardwoods by reading the log then turning as I cut to center the pith.  On the low-grade logs I have this usually means cutting 4/4 , turning so as to get the entire pith in a 46.

On framing lumber, syp, I open then look at some of mm's drawings.  Syp hasn't given me much grief yet and I have cut a good bit of it.

Now for the 64 dollar question.  It appears to me that when processing a 24/26 inch log into reasonably large posts, beams, or mantles if the pith is to be boxed with larger pieces there is little chance of feeling the log out.  Without noticeable exterior effects how would  one start the process?

46 boxed heart, good 26 inch white oak 12 ft.6, as much quality large post /beams as possible, side lumber and stickers from the rest.

Thanks to all that will help a fellow out.

All materials are for self use, no cutlist involved.

Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: 4/4 / framing / timber framing
« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2021, 06:26:59 AM »
By "feeling it out" if you mean envisioning how the pith goes, I look at both ends and the sweep of the log and guess at the beginning. Then watch the grain patterns on the 4 faces of the cant as you saw off its sides.  Adjust which side you take off of if necessary. 
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Online Don P

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Re: 4/4 / framing / timber framing
« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2021, 07:49:21 AM »
Absent obvious clues it is kind of a roll of the dice what's deep inside a large log for me, it's had a lot of time to cover old defects. Sometimes once I open one up it helps explain what I'm seeing and likely to get in an even aged stand of similar trees.
The future is a foreign country, they will do things differently there - Simon Winchester

Offline Lynwoo

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Re: 4/4 / framing / timber framing
« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2021, 11:09:48 PM »
thanks for the replies.   When I use the phrase feeling the log out This is how I prepare to make the next cut by the tension, deflection of the last 4/4 cut.  But if a sizeable, say 10 inch cut is required with the exception of the jacket boards there will not be much material to tell which side is better.

If squared up to an equal sized can't I would assume  the first cut after making the cant  would be to make the cut close to the pith getting the maximum width and hope for the best then having made that commitment proceed with the remainder.

I absolutely  understand that every tree has its own personal attitudes  and there are no textbook answers, just looking for others opinions.

With a large beam or post I assume it could be cut oversize then after reading the cut just made could be resawn to the proper size.

This is just me thinking out loud.

Any other thoughts? 

Also I  was cutting some windblown red oaks today and had the stump stand back up.  I felt the tension in the saw and started the camera up.  The video is just over a minute long.  I need to figure how to upload it to the site.  The camera is a go pro if that makes a difference. 


Lots of things can happen, everyone be safe.

Offline PC-Urban-Sawyer

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Re: 4/4 / framing / timber framing
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2021, 12:17:20 AM »
Upload it to YouTube and then put a link to the video in your Forum post.



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