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Author Topic: assembling my new sawmill  (Read 4001 times)

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Offline maple flats

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assembling my new sawmill
« on: August 01, 2021, 03:45:41 PM »
I received my Woodland Mills HM130MAX on 7/30/21, I bought it with their trailer. While I opened and unpacked the crate the trailer was in and sorted the parts, into my shop I will not start assembling it for a few days. I have another project to do first. Hopefully late this week I can begin assembly, trailer, then the mill. Pictures will come.
I'll need to assemble it outdoors, since I don't have enough room inside to do it. Once it's all set to saw, one project will be to saw lumber to build a shop addition, 32' long x 14 or 16 wide. The width will depend on room, I'm adding it to a shop with a hip roof and I want to follow the slope of the top portion  on the hip, following that angle I haven't checked to see how high the low end would be at the 14 or 16' width, if it's not too low, I'll go 16'.
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

Offline Daburner87

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2021, 08:29:57 PM »
It's been a fun process, got mine yesterday.  Too much drinking last night slowed me down today though.  You'll need a hand with the saw head for sure.  I'm pretty strong, but I wish I had a helper for the heavier bits.  I'm worn out.  
Soon to be  owner of a HM130Max Woodlander XL

Offline melezefarmer

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2021, 07:30:26 AM »
oops - wrong thread.

Offline maple flats

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2021, 07:59:07 PM »
So far I've only opened the trailer box (and the band blade sharpener because it got wet, all looked OK) and sorted the pieces to see if there was any damage. Today, among other things I was teaching my 12 yr old grandson to run the excavator. I recently converted a mechanical thumb to hydraulic. I saw that I need a tougher pin on the thumb, the 1" std. pin has a big curve. I'll shop for a tougher hardened pin, or I'll weld a steel bushing on either side to beef up the attachment point. I wondered if that would be tough enough.
My grandson did well, he just took his time. There are lots of controls to learn which does what.
Here is a picture of the excavator, taken before I added a thumb:




That little mini, about 8000# lifts about 2500# but you need to have the blade down and have the load out front in order to lift that much. I don't know how much it can lift out the side, but certainly not that much very far from the machine.
Maybe tomorrow we can move more logs , by the weekend I'd like to start assembling. my plan is to put up a 10x20 canopy tent over it, for shade and shed any light rain. If it rains hard, we'll wait for a better day.
When we get started with assembly I'll get some pictures.
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

Offline maple flats

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2021, 02:05:16 PM »
New plan for the thumb. I now have a 1" pin going thru an end on the hydraulic cylinder that is 1" hole and 2.25" long. My issue (yes, I should have been smarter) is that I used a stack of washers to center it in the 5" space. I bent the 1" pin big time.
My new plan, I have a piece of 1.375 thick alloy steel that is 5" long x almost 4" wide. I'll cut it to make 2 pcs about 2.5" x 4", mill a 1" hole in them, then weld them in to make the space the correct width, then put a new 1" pin thru it. That should correct that end. Then for the other end of the cylinder I have some 1/2" steel plate, I'll make 2 for filling the space at the other end of the cylinder, that pin has not yet bent. Then I may need to adjust the relief valve. The cylinder is rated for 3000 psi, I already pushed the  O ring out on the cylinder, must be my old excavator is more than 3000 psi. If I need to back it off too much, I'll buy a cylinder rated for 5000 psi, otherwise I'd lose too much lift capacity and digging capability when I dig with it.
We grow too soon old and too late smart!
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

Offline maple flats

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #5 on: August 15, 2021, 09:05:55 AM »
I finally think I'll get started assembling my trailer, then the mill, this week or next. I'm thinking it may be a good time to design in a method to lift one end of the log to center the pith when needed. For those who have hydraulic  lift for that, which end is the lift at on your mill? I'm thinking I want it at the tail end, thinking I will want the big end facing the operator, does that sound like the best plan?
My thoughts are to use an electric actuator to do the lifting, 12v. I'd design it with mechanical advantage.
My main question is what would be the best way to support the weight when lifting, the mill will be mounted on a trailer, should I add a cross brace on the trailer even before the mill goes on. My mill will be able to saw 30" logs and possibly at times I've been known to stretch things (I may on rare occasion trim a slightly larger log to make it work) but my longest log will be just under 17'. Suggestions please.
I have an actuator (12V) rated to push 1300+ LBS straight line, I think I'll design it with a max 3 or 4" lift, thus I'd get at least 2.5 x that less friction loss. max extension is 10"
Dave
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

Offline Chuck White

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #6 on: August 15, 2021, 08:55:42 PM »
Most of the hydraulic mills, and several of the manual mills have a toeboard on each end of the deck.

The hydraulic toeboards operate right from the hydraulic control panel, while the manual ones operate by hand, with a crank!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF 1989, Retired School Bus Driver 2012, now semi-retired Mobile Sawyer, 2018 Silverado 4X4
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Offline Bindian

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #7 on: August 16, 2021, 03:16:01 AM »
Yep, my Woodmizer LHDT have two toeboards.  Awesome you get to teach your Grandson.
hugs,  Brandi
Mahindra 6520 4WD with loader/backhoe and a Caterpiller E70 Excavator.  My mill is a Woodmizer LT40HD Wide Diesel. An old Lull 644D-34 called Bull

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Offline Gere Flewelling

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #8 on: August 16, 2021, 04:56:18 PM »
My mill is not hydraulic. I ordered it with a single toe board hydraulic jack controlled lift on the forward side as it is recommended by the manufacturer to always saw from the small end.  I soon learned that it is near impossible to control where the small end of each log is when you have a pile of logs.  Most people don't seem to grasp the concept when stacking logs for you to cut.  I added a second toe board that works exactly like the original.  The problem is that I put it down near the 15-16' crossmember thinking that would be best.  I didn't take into account that there are lots of 8'-12' logs that need to be sawn and there is no toe board under the small end if the log gets put on backwards.  I end up using a hydraulic jack on a block of 8"x8" setting on the ground under the mill right behind the axle.  Had I mounted the second jack type toe board just behind the axle it would work for the 8,10,12, and 16' logs just as well.  Someday I will cut off the second one I built and re-install it where it will work best.  I find that it doesn't really matter to me which way the log is positioned on the mill  I just adapt to the taper.
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Offline maple flats

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2021, 05:26:21 PM »
Wow, I hadn't thought of 2, I may get another electric actuator and put one at maybe 2-3 ft, and one at maybe 9 foot (or 8' in from my first stop). If I sometime decide I'll need a third one at about 14', I'll get another. By then I should know how to build them.
Luckily, my brother likes making things and he has a small machine shop fairly well equipped. His equipment is all 75+ yrs old, but it all works well. He bought the old equipment realizing it was far superior to what he could justify buying new. His 2 main machines are a 48" long 12" chucked lathe and a huge Bridgeport milling machine that weighs about 5000#. It's 3 ph, but he uses a converter. Besides those, he's an excellent welder, stick, wire, and all of the specialty types, I forget what they are called.
In his little shop he used to adapt ss screw augers for some equipment for Scott Paper, changing the center attachment on the auger, a procedure his SIL developed to make installing and swapping them much faster as one wore out. It seemed, other machine shops didn't want to convert them, but my brother made good money doing it.
I do also have the option to lift it using a sling strap and my excavator, or the excavator and thumb.
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

Offline Daburner87

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #10 on: August 17, 2021, 05:55:19 PM »
I've seen quite a few people using a modified scissor jack and using handheld impact guns to lift logs opposed to manually cranking.  Works great from what I've seen.  Plan to add two to my mill when I get around to it.
Soon to be  owner of a HM130Max Woodlander XL

Offline maple flats

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #11 on: August 17, 2021, 08:05:22 PM »
Thanks for the idea, I'll use the actuator I have but may consider scissor jack for 1 or 2 more. I certainly have enough impact drivers and batteries to handle it.
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #12 on: August 17, 2021, 09:25:32 PM »
   I don't think I had seen the firm suggestion to saw from the little end. Oh, I have seen where some individuals preferred it to avoid compression wood in the butt end but the trade off is sawing from the big end, especially when it approaches the maximum diameter of your mill, ensures once you start, if you get past the start you will make it to the other end. I don't know how many times I/most of us have sawed nearly to the end then find the log was too wide to fit between the blade guides and you have to back out, which is not generally much fun.

  I am pretty sure most of us saw whichever end lands on the mill first.
Howard Green
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Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline Magicman

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #13 on: August 17, 2021, 09:34:27 PM »
Yes I saw logs as they land on the sawmill bed, but I absolutely prefer to enter logs from the top end rather than the butt end.

The only exception are 8' logs because the toe board is forward of that bed rail.
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Online trimguy

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #14 on: August 17, 2021, 09:53:32 PM »
Why do you prefer to saw from the small end ?

Offline KenMac

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #15 on: August 19, 2021, 06:18:48 PM »
Why do you prefer to saw from the small end ?
I find sawing from the small end is more efficient for me due to less walking to measure pith height and also because it's easier to plan cuts since you know the log gets larger as you advance into it. Hope that makes sense and doesn't confuse you.
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Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #16 on: August 19, 2021, 06:47:57 PM »
   The top end also tends to be less dense and easier to cut especially compared to the butt log which may have significant compression wood on some logs/species.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Online trimguy

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #17 on: August 19, 2021, 08:21:59 PM »
Thank you.

Offline maple flats

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #18 on: August 21, 2021, 01:32:07 PM »
getting far too much rain. I did get a 10x20 canopy put up to assemble under, but it was raining hard as we finished. Maybe in 2 days we can actually begin trailer assembly.
logging small time for years but just learning how,  2012 36 HP Mahindra tractor, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed, Woodland Mills HM130Max , maple syrup a hobby that consumes my time. looking to learn blacksmithing.

Offline GAB

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Re: assembling my new sawmill
« Reply #19 on: August 21, 2021, 05:43:02 PM »
I prefer top down as the roller used to center the pith is easier to see when it is up.
Twice today I raised the far roller when trying to split the difference.
Ah-Yup you guessed it.  I forgot to lower it both times.
Someday I may get to see the door those wedges are intended for.
GAB
W-M LT40HDD34 w/6' ext & SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.


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