Author Topic: Bent rim and possible wheel bearing failure. (Read 653 times)

slice107 · « **on:** September 18, 2021, 06:50:14 PM »

My ford 8n just had a wheel bearing go. I noticed the rim is bent some time ago. I was just wondering if anyone knew if a bent rim could cause wheel bearing failure??

The bearings that came out where pitted and the inside bearing race was full of rust.

I'd just like to know if I should put my extra set of 16 inch rims on instead of the set of 19s I got.

The tractor does also pull a little to the right when driving in 4th gear but I think that is more a bad steering box, as it does have new tie rod ends.

Iwawoodwork · « **Reply #1 on:** September 19, 2021, 01:38:01 PM »

At the slow speed those tractors travel there is little chance a bent rim would have anything to do with the bearing failure. Most likely is moisture and sitting, maybe a shortage of grease also, you said there was pitting that = moisture and rust. If the wheel bearing was not adjusted correctly, to to tight or to loose, also if the seal was damaged that could allow water or dirt into the bearing, then sitting for long periods allows rust,

YellowHammer · « **Reply #2 on:** September 19, 2021, 02:58:06 PM »

The high odds are a rusty bearing failed from moisture and subsequently rust. The seal went bad, the grease was replaced by water or moist air got to the bearing or race surfaces, and corrosion and rust did their thing.

Any kind of sustained moisture is death to a bearing, as generally the metals used for the balls and races are highly corrosion sensitive, and fracture is bound to happen, well before it gets visibly rusty.

I’d just replace the bearing assembly, including the inner races, seals, and even the grease fitting and pump it full of good grease and be done with it.

Tom King · « **Reply #3 on:** September 19, 2021, 04:38:56 PM »

I did an ebay search for "8n front wheel", and found many choices. A new 19" is $80, including shipping. If it's not bent too badly, I wouldn't worry about it. They have bearing sets, too.

farmfromkansas · « **Reply #4 on:** September 19, 2021, 05:00:32 PM »

When I was a teenager, worked in a service station. Any time we ran across a bent rim, we just took a hammer and straightened it, if it was where the bead of the tire mated up. If the whole wheel wobbles that is a different thing.

slice107 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 19, 2021, 05:49:51 PM »

Thanks for all the replys.
The bearings are replaced on that side and packed with red timkin bearing grease. I just didn't want to put the rim back on and have the bearing go again.

The rim is bent enough that you can see the wheel wobble in 4th gear. Also thanks for reminding me about eBay. I always forget to look there for parts.

One more question, it's better for wheel bearing to be to loose then to tight right?? The ones I just put I did but up tight but it didn't line up with cotter pin hole. So I backed it off till it did. It was about half way between the 2 holes. But after driving it a bit today the bearing feels like it's got a little slop in it.

YellowHammer · « **Reply #6 on:** September 19, 2021, 06:50:47 PM »

A little bearing play, with the wheel jacked up is OK, but I typically will retighten the castle nut at 1/16" and no more than 1/8" end play. Ball bearing can handle a little slop, roller bearing don't like it much.

Typically, the best thing to do is tighten the castle nut by hand or extremely light wrench pressure, with the wheel up off the ground and spinning by hand, until the wheel noticeably slows down. If you have a torque wrench that's usually recommended to be abut 10 ft-lbs. Then back off one notch on the castle nut until the cotter pin lines up, making sure the wheel is spinning freely, but with no or almost no noticeable play. At that point, put the cotter pin back in. If you are already seeing some play, then I would say the bearing has seated little after installation, and could use tightening.

If you can see a noticeable wobble with the bent rim, I would fix it or replace it, just because it would be putting extra cyclic loads on your steering system.

slice107 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 19, 2021, 07:42:15 PM »

Ok thanks that's kinda more or less what I do with bearings.

As for fixing a bent rim how would one go about that?? I don't have a press handy.

btulloh · « **Reply #8 on:** September 19, 2021, 07:48:53 PM »

While you’ve got the wheel up in the air you can check the spindles for play. Easy to rebuild those if needed. Oversize bushings are available if the spindle itself is worn. After 70 years of use everything tends to get worn down. The kingpin in the front axle needs to be checked too if it’s the original.

slice107 · « **Reply #9 on:** September 20, 2021, 08:08:27 PM »

Spindles are good as well as the pivot bushing. I had checked all that when I had the motor out. I also cleaned around the bushing.

Iwawoodwork · « **Reply #10 on:** September 20, 2021, 11:47:21 PM »

No problem with a little rim wobble, you are not traveling fast enough on that old 8n to make a difference. I have seen log truck trailers going down the road with a bent rim that looks to be an inch or so out at 50-60 mph, bent rims happen but are not a big deal at 8n speeds. If it is so bent that it is affecting the steering of the tractor then replace.

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