iDRY Vacuum Kilns

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Any ideas on removing this?

Started by Mooseherder, February 08, 2023, 09:31:16 AM

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Mooseherder

I broke a 1/4 inch drive shank in my drill chuck while using a socket.  It's flush with the chuck and won't release.  I've tried a magnet.
Any tips on removing?  You need 3 hands apparently. :(



 

 

Magicman

Normally it's tap, tap, tap around the outside.  It would be better if you had a "dolly" or heavy hammer to use as a backup on the other side.  The closer that you can get to the stuck object to tap, the better.  Sometimes tap means rap.  ;D

Edit: The objective is to upset what is stuck.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Don P

Hold it like you are using it without triggering, pull back on the release and Rap it down on steel right beside the broken shank. Repeatedly. You're hammering it out of there.

Mooseherder

I'll try that again.  It's a real awkward motion the way you have to hold the release and bang. :D

edit:
just tried that again.  no room to bang really while your fingers are in the bang zone.  It's a pull forward motion release.

PoginyHill

Drill and easy-out? Or is material too hard?
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

Magicman

You need help holding everything.  While pulling the ring back, use a flat punch between the balls, and you will still probably need backup on the opposite side.

A hammer drill (hammering not turning) e/w a chisel bit could be used.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WV Sawmiller

  I don't mean to be insulting but is the chuck fully open? You might put a pipe wrench on the bezel and twist another fraction of an inch in opening than you can get twisting by hand. 
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Jeff

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Magicman

Howard, that is not a twist chuck, it is a pull back.  Mine is a push forward to release.

It's probably gonna take spray and vibration.  It could be only one ball that did not retract/release.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WV Sawmiller

Lynn,

   Thanks for the clarification. I think Jeff has the answer.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

doc henderson

or super glue and something to hold onto.  is it a drill, or impact.  I use my 1/4 inch impact often, and have never had this happen.  Is it stuck/jammed, or just cannot get a grip on it?
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Mooseherder

It's an impact.  I was driving a lag bolt into wood.  I guess too much torque. :D
No welder here so I'll try super glue later.  Won't be home for a few hours.
Yes to all the above doc.

Crusarius

use a punch to impact directly on the face of the broken bit. all it needs to do is move a little bit and will probably dislodge the chunk that is locking it in place.

newoodguy78

Can you get it in a vice with the tip pointed down with something like needle nose vice grips holding the lock open.  Then a punch to tap on the bit or area around it. I've got several out that have broken off. The tap and bang method is what worked for me. Did have one that had me thinking buying a new one was the way to go but it did come out eventually. Sometimes tapping in the opposite direction it broke being used works too. Good luck you'll get it. 

terrifictimbersllc

Yes, Id open my big bench vice wide enough to hold back the ring but let everything else go between the jaws. So that pushing down on the drill holds back the ring. Then take a hammer and rap on the  the vise jaws sideways rapidly till it falls out. Maybe wet it down first with Bluecreeper too. Secret is to devise a positive action that is easy to repeat many times.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

doc henderson

Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Mooseherder

The pic doesn't show it but there isn't any room or very minimal room.  Wire size gap around the shank maybe, not even.  I'll try to dislodge it.
I'll vise it and try to simultaneously hold the release in open position.  I've got some things to try later including drilling.  Will let you know.

beenthere

My DeWalt impact driver may be similar, but the chuck has a ¼" shank slot that releases when the knurled ring is moved forward. Similar to yours?




There is a snap ring holding the knurled ring, and removing that likely will get you further/closer to the problem.

Inside behind the knurled ring, there is a ball that holds the ¼" shank


 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Mooseherder

Yes,  It is the same as yours beenthere.

beenthere

That ball is what is holding the broken part in there. Have to pop that out and it will fall out. Other fixes, like hammering or welding may just end up being costly.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

LeeB

I love this place. Best troubleshooting source around.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Mooseherder

I got it out by drilling and then inserting a drywall screw into it.  It was the smallest tip I had on hand.  It was in there good and twisted and I'm surprised the screw held while I yanked.  Thank You All!


 

 

chet

Glad ya didn't hafta resort ta "flat punch between the balls" suggestion  :o :o :o     :D
I am a true TREE HUGGER, if I didnt I would fall out!  chet the RETIRED arborist

Tom King

I haven't broken one off, but I got a T20 driver bit stuck in one so tight I didn't think it was coming back out.  I put some Blue Creeper around it, and let it sit overnight.  The next day, I sat in the chair in my shop with the driver under my leg, and pair of ViseGrips clamped to the bit, got ready to put everything I had into it while holding the chuck collar back with one hand.....
and it came right out just like one normally does with little effort.

Don P

My no name (KOBALT) gets stuck pretty often. If I tap the end of the driver it usually lets go with a rap or 2.

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