Any ideas on removing this?

[Mooseherder]

I got a Charley horse in my bicep and had to regroup before success. :D

[doc henderson]

 

[Resonator]

The objective is to upset what is stuck.

Looks like he got it out OK without getting too upset. :D

[Magicman]

Yea !!!  It's out and his balls are still intact.  Miracles happen every day, especially Wednesdays.

Looking at the above picture I see that it was jammed clockwise so any punching would have needed to be tapping it counterclockwise to relieve the bind.

Congrats on your success.   8)

[Brad_bb]

Great, if it were too hard to drill I would have looked at using a TIG welder to weld the welding rod to the bit.  The problem with the Mig is that  you're doing it blind.  You probably can't see the welding so you're aiming and shooting blind and judging when you should stop. It may deposit too much filler wire or not get enough penetration.  It's a last resort.  You'd have a better shot at seeing what you're welding with the TIG torch.

[Southside]

The next day, I sat in the chair in my shop with the driver under my leg, and pair of ViseGrips clamped to the bit, got ready to put everything I had into it while holding the chuck collar back with one hand.....

Glad to hear that worked, it could have easily ended with a "flat punch between the balls" too.  :D

[Old Greenhorn]

Glad you caught that SS, I missed it the first time, now I have tears in my eyes. OYY, that could have hurt. I know, I have heard of folks doing similar stuff. ;D

[beenthere]

Just one ball in the chuck of Mooseherder's DeWalt when I opened mine up, and that holds the hex shaft.

[Mooseherder]

Hope it's all back together and good.  That is going Above and beyond taking your stuff apart. ;)
I wouldn't do that. :D

[Peter Drouin]

Remember when you had to use a key to open and close them. Always worked.
But, today, everybody in a hurry, so this is what we have to go through now. :D

[Crusarius]

plus, you need to consider getting impact bits for impact drivers. They have a relief that allows them to twist instead of break. 

I had to switch to different bits, and I started buying better screws because of my impact. I kept shearing the screws while installing them.

[21incher]

Now it's time to buy impact rated accessories. I snapped several like that and finally upgraded.

Remember when you had to use a key to open and close them. Always worked.
But, today, everybody in a hurry, so this is what we have to go through now. :D

Evolution is the name of the game. Not everyone likes it.

[GAB]

Great, if it were too hard to drill I would have looked at using a TIG welder to weld the welding rod to the bit.  The problem with the Mig is that  you're doing it blind.  You probably can't see the welding so you're aiming and shooting blind and judging when you should stop. It may deposit too much filler wire or not get enough penetration.  It's a last resort.  You'd have a better shot at seeing what you're welding with the TIG torch.

When attempting to weld against frayed metal, it is best to anticipate a weld failure rate.
GAB

[Crusarius]

GAB is right. I have tried welding a nut to many things in the past. Failed many times 

What I found works best for me was just using a flat plate. the thinner material bonds to the part to be removed much better without over heating it.

[Mooseherder]

I bought a replacement today and it came with a 3/8 adaptor also so I'll use that instead for driving lags. ;)



whatayouwant for 4.98? :D

[btulloh]

Looks like I'm a little late mentioning this but it helps to use impact rated tips and such in impact drivers. Hopefully the ones you bought are impact rated. The impact rated screw driver tips and accessories are less brittle than the stuff we used to use in drill motors and hold up better.  When I first switched to using a 1/4" impact I broke a lot of tips, usually just the wings on phillips screwdrivers, but now the impact rated stuff holds up much better.  Probably preaching to the choir, but thought it was worth mentioning. 

[Resonator]

Like said, it should say impact rated on the package. I know with socket sets the rule of thumb is the chrome (vanadium) steel ones are for regular ratchets, while black (molybdenum) steel are for impact. Not that I would've ever used a regular socket on an air impact before...