quartersawn red oak bed project

[Dan_Shade]

I got the headboard and footboard put together today.  I need to sand the panels, and get a coat of finish on them prior to glueing it all up.  This is the first time I've done panels.

I guess this is "arts and crafts" influenced?  if not, I'll go with "an original by Dan"  :-D

I need to get the rails installed, that's the next step.  I want to do blind bolts, with 3/8" brass inserts in the head/foot board, and allthread in a hole drilled along the axis of the rail, with an access hole from the inside.  I'll post pics of that after I figure out how I want to do it.







Need to turn some feet and make finials for the top as well.

[SwampDonkey]

Looks great Dan, nice wood and design.  8) Will be following right along. 

I've used rail fasteners. It's hidden in the inside corner of rail and head board. Just a matter of sliding one half down over the second half, they interlock for a strong square fit.

[Dan_Shade]

i'm afraid that they won't hold up to the abuse a bed can receive   ;D

[WDH]

Dan,

That is well done.  The oaks looks really good! 

[fishpharmer]

Can't wait to see the finished product.  nice.

[Magicman]

Very nice.  There's just nothing like raised panels.

[pigman]

Looking good. 8)  Is that a matching night stand on the right in the last picture?

[Dan_Shade]

nah, it's a sewing station that a friend of mine is building for his wife.  we share equipment in his shop, works out well for the both of us.

[metalspinner]

Dan,

Using bed bolts is the way I've put a few beds together.  I use 1/2"  x 7" hex head bolts.  The joints I used are actually mortice and tenon, but they are held together with bed bolts.  Bed bolt covers conceal the bolt head.

I want to do blind bolts, with 3/8" brass inserts in the head/foot board, and allthread in a hole drilled along the axis of the rail, with an access hole from the inside

So, you do not want to pass the bolt through from the outside of the leg?

These beds were built for the kids, so they get the rough and tumble treatment, too.

[Dan_Shade]

No, I don't want to put the bolts in from the outside of the leg.

[Dan_Shade]

I got it all together, need to fine tune one of the rails, screw on angle iron to hold the box spring, sand, and finish


I was able to make the blind connections like I wanted to, I put 3/8 brass inserts in the legs (didn't get a picture of that), and recessed the nut end:




assembled, it's very stiff even without being glued up:




another angle to show the rail:





I put about an 1/8" quartersawn veneer (resawn in the shop) on the outside of the rail.  I didn't put one on the inside, I may be rolling the dice, I don't know....  Time will tell!

I now need to make some bun feet and cap the tops of the posts. 

[SwampDonkey]

Looks like a good solid joint there Dan, lots of meat to hold strong.

As to the veneer face on the rail, did you contact cement it? It will have some give or flotation between surfaces with moisture movement, white glue will go solid. Looks like the rail was flat sawed, that's why I ask. And is that why you faced it? It may not even be a big deal, all depends on how dry it was and environment of the new home it will sit. I know little about veneering, so take it as an inquiry more than anything. I have faced plywood edge with thin quartered material instead of buying the roll of fake stuff (I guess rolls of real thin and narrow veneer can also be purchased). So grain direction is the same.

[Dan_Shade]

i used titebond 3 (I think), I did not use contact cement.

I faced it to get a quartersawn face.  if it busts, I guess I'll have to fix it   :  My original plan was to get 4 slices from the 1/4sawn board, but I didn't have enough pressure against the fence, and the first slice ended up too thin
 

[WDH]

I am very impressed with your bed!  That clear oak is gorgeous.  You have to feel very satisfied with the outcome.  Several years later you will look at it and think, "DanG, I can't believe that I built that!"

[Dan_Shade]

Or, I"ll be looking at a busted rail, and go "i shoulda known better"

:-)

I made very shallow tennons for the bed rails as well, I probably should have made them 3/4" deep, but I figure this way, it would be easier to get it together.  I try to build my peices so that the mechanical joints give it strength, and not have to rely on glue or fasteners.  I think I am going to dowel the tennons when I put it together for additional strength.

[SwampDonkey]

You'll be surprised sometimes what dense wood will hold for weight and strength against it. I made a queen sized cherry bed with hard maple rails and I used the slip bed joints I posted about in an earlier post. The head and foot board posts are only 1-3/4 or 2" and it's never racked loose in 20 years. It's so easy to take apart and put back together. Of course I never had too much rough stuff or kids playing trampoline.  :D :D At first I was worrying the cherry could split, then that soon subsided. ;)

As kids we had pine twin beds, well they split the posts. :D

[Magicman]

That is very nice craftsmanship.  You are not going to break or shear any of those joints.   

[jamesamd]

Well done,that is one sweet bed frame.
Jim

[Burlkraft]

The bed looks great Dan  8)  8)  8)

Danny's right....You'll be proud of that project for years to come.  ;)

[Dodgy Loner]

*SNIP*
I guess this is "arts and crafts" influenced?  if not, I'll go with "an original by Dan"  :-D
*SNIP*

*SNIP*
Need to turn some feet and make finials for the top as well.
*SNIP*

You can definitely see some Arts and Crafts details in the piece. Massive, square posts? Check. Quartersawn oak (albeit not white oak)? Check. But the raised panels, the subtle arch atop the headboard, and the turned feet and finials that you refer to will make it all your own. Maybe you can call it "An Arts and Crafts-inspired Original by Dan". I'll just call it a beauty. Nice work!

[Dan_Shade]

incorporating the turnings into the peice is proving to be challenging, I turned some bun feet, they didn't fit the style, so I quickly did a cove, it looked better, i'll hopefully have more time this weekend....

so arts and crafts design doesn't incorporate raised panels?

[SwampDonkey]

I've been having a time of it with mortises. I can't get the chisels sharp enough. It's good steel and I even both honed it and tried it right off the stone. Just crushes the end grain in cherry if you try to square the hole. So now I have a mortising chisel, a coping saw, and a fine Japanese Dozuki saw on the way from Lee Valley. I'm not ready to invest in a mortise attachment and drill press. Maybe when the tax refund comes. ;D

[Dan_Shade]

I have two fixes

one, hit the chisel harder with the hammer

two, take off your glasses

:-)

[SwampDonkey]

 :D :D :D :D

[Dan_Shade]

check this out, SD:  http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Main/Articles/Skill_Builder_Hand_Cutting_Mortise_and_Tenons_8080.aspx