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Author Topic: Sharpening and Setting  (Read 4961 times)

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Offline Stephen1

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Re: Sharpening and Setting
« Reply #20 on: March 15, 2012, 03:49:44 PM »
Clear as mud to me, but still right, as the tooth shrinks we lose set, so we have to bend it back to the set out of the factory,
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Offline hackberry jake

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Re: Sharpening and Setting
« Reply #21 on: March 15, 2012, 07:07:07 PM »
I've never broke a tooth while setting, but I hear it's pretty easy if you try to set a left tooth right or vise versa
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Offline Chuck White

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Re: Sharpening and Setting
« Reply #22 on: March 16, 2012, 12:03:05 PM »
Clear as mud to me, but still right, as the tooth shrinks we lose set, so we have to bend it back to the set out of the factory,


Stephen, if you're doing a "full profile" grind, your teeth won't shrink.

You'll take everything down "approximately" at the same rate.

OR, are you talking about the teeth getting slightly smaller while you're sawing?

But, like is said with a full profile grind, you'll end up taking off about the same amount of metal throughout the length of the band.

I think I've worded this like I wanted to.  :-\
~Chuck~
Retired USAF 1989, Retired School Bus Driver 2012, now semi-retired Mobile Sawyer, 2018 Silverado 4X4
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Offline Stephen1

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Re: Sharpening and Setting
« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2012, 01:08:03 PM »
I agree as long as you do.a full.profile everything stays the same...except the width of the blade. It will gradually shrink.
Here is a question...do you always do a full profile grind? Do you set overtime.? I notice the set is different when I flip the blade? Is this because of the blade running on the wheels or did I Jistegetring hit some more metal?
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Offline Jim_Rogers

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Re: Sharpening and Setting
« Reply #24 on: March 16, 2012, 05:44:00 PM »
If the set is different when you set the blade then you may have one side duller than the other.
When setting they should be both set the same.

To de-burr, I just took a 1x1 stick of red oak and rubbed it on the side of the blade that has the burr on it. And it would knock the burr off the tooth enough so you could set it.

I always set after I grind, when I used to set my blades.

If you are just skimming the timbers then that side will be duller then the other side. And it sucks to have to sharpen a blade when only one side is dull but you have to do it anyway.

I have always found that the better way to do it is to take a deeper cut then just skimming the top. So that the blade only enters the cut on the edge of the timber.
If there is a risk of dirt, sand or over stuff, then I'd run the water full wide open to wash it off as I cut.

Your signature doesn't say what mill you have. I know it's WM, but what size and year?

Jim Rogers
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Offline Nomad

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Re: Sharpening and Setting
« Reply #25 on: March 16, 2012, 06:47:39 PM »
I agree as long as you do.a full.profile everything stays the same...except the width of the blade. It will gradually shrink.

     The depth of the blade will shrink; IE from the top of the teeth to the bottom of the blade.  The thickness of the blade will stay the same.  For example, .045 is going to stay .045.  The distance across from one tooth to the next will get smaller. 
     A .045 blade, with a .025 set, would be .095 across from the tip of a left facing tooth to the tip of a right facing tooth.  .045+.025+.025=.095.  As you grind the tip of the tooth, you're removing the part that sticks farthest out from the body of the blade.  Therefore, the set becomes less each time you sharpen.  Sharpening the whole profile doesn't change that.  Barring damage done during sawing, that is what requires resetting a blade if you want to bring it back to factory specs.
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Offline Stephen1

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Re: Sharpening and Setting
« Reply #26 on: April 03, 2012, 03:35:34 PM »
Well as in my other post, I did finish my cutting job.
I am not bad and sharpen and setting now, thanks for the info guys.
Jim, thanks for the info , it is a WM LT40HD, 1993 with 750 hrs on it. It came with a sharpener, setter, and a barely used resaw attachment wired and ready to go.
I got pretty good at sharpening and setting as I was going thru 10 blades a day, and a couple of days 18 blades.
I have damaged blades, when do you decide to throw them out, how many bad teeth, or do you keep sharpening untill you get all the teeth the same. Do you save them to use them on ugly wood that u know will have junk in them or just throw them out? I have about 15 damaged blades, plus I broke about 8 blades. they  :o are amazing able to cut thru 1/2 lag bolts, mind they don't cut very well after you hear the zing... :D
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Sharpening and Setting
« Reply #27 on: April 05, 2012, 09:20:52 AM »
Stephen two or three broken teeth are not the kiss of death for a band unless their in a row.Most of us save old bands for those doggy logs,but never seem to have them on the mill when we hit something,always a new band.Seems to me one side of a band seems to loose more of its set than the outher,its not a perfect system but as long as the boards come out well we're OK. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece


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