Anybody have a simple jig design for cutting cookies/ovals

[WV Sawmiller]

   I have a customer who needs to make some seats for an outdoor table and wants to use either cookies or oval cookies about 2"-3" thick. Sounds like he may need several dozen if not more if this pans out on a continuing basis. Because its an outside application I'm thinking of using white oak about 12"-16" in diameter. The design he showed me has 2 legs instead of a single pedestal for better stability. I'm leaning toward ovals to provide a bigger surface area to connect the legs to.

   For those of you who cut cookies/ovals do you have and can you post a picture of any simple jig you use to help hold the short log in place? I find my hydraulic clamp head is off-set from the base making the logs want to slip out especially since I will never generate a squared edge in this case.

   Thanks in advance.

[Brad_bb]

Another guy just told me how he does it.  He just built a simple 2x4 frame like you'd prebuild a stud wall and then sheath one side in 3/4 plywood.  Put a log chunk in each opening of the stud wall and run a few screws through the plywood into the chunks.  Then clamp the stud wall frame on the mill and go for it.  You will leave a short 3.5"-4" cookie in the frame that will become firewood unless you have another use for it.  Size your stud wall openings to the largest cookie you want to make.

[Jim_Rogers]

 

 

You can do it like this but with round logs.
If you want ovals lean it over and cut several inches thick.

Good luck

Jim Rogers

[WV Sawmiller]

Brad,

   I'm not following your description very well. Any pictures of this design?

Jim,

   Squares would be easy but these have to be native edge cookies/ovals with the rounded edges so harder to clamp and I need to get the angle for the ovals. The last I did was similar to this with a board on the side and I had trouble keeping it clamped tight. There has to be a better way.

[ladylake]

 
The best way to get those ovals is to find a crooked log, lay one end on the deck flat with the curve up in the air.   Steve

[xlogger]

YH had a simple one he build, I can't find it but maybe he will repost it for you.

[WDH]

Yes, yellowhammer has a simple but very effective system. 

[red]

Mr Yellowhammer has it ALL

[Hilltop366]

No experience making cookies but using a v notch may give you the grip required, easy to build, easy to use and cheap.

The V would have to line up with the log bunks or put a plank under the V notched beam to hold the logs up for clamping.

When you clamp the plain beam against the logs it will tilt one way or the other a bit to make up the for any difference in log side.

Also the clamp would be centred in between the V notches.

Some thing like this.



 

[caveman]

I cut a v-notch into a dedicated cant and often screw the log upright to a board that sits flat on the mill.  I move the cant with the v-notch down closer to the bed as the log gets shorter, I will shim it up with another cant when the upright log is long.  I do not have any pictures of it.
Caveman

[WV Sawmiller]

Hilltop and Caveman,

   Thanks for the idea. I can see where the V notch would work well for the cookies and I will see if I can cut an angled V notch to cut ovals.

[twin_lakes]

We had an order this winter for 6 pallets full of 4"-8" tall cookies.  Because of the thickness, we tried several options to make clamping logs easy and fast.  The fastest and most stable option we came up with is the combo of a board below resting on the mill, one up against the back stops with a v-notch cut into it, and then a board on the outside clamped onto the log with a pair of pull straps (non-ratcheting).  We could bind down on the two pull straps enough to bend the brace board around the log, and that seemed to stabilize the log the best and keep it from jumping around (bad news when it gets loose)   :




 



 

[woodman58]

I made 2 dozen 1" cookies a couple weeks ago for a 50th anniversary party. The cookies were 12". I took a wide slab that i had cut that wouldn't  be good lumber for anything and cut 6 chunks of log about 12" long and screwed them to the board with 4-3" screws in each log. Then I skimmed a little off the top of each to level them out and then began cutting 1" off of each. It worked well for me. 

[WV Sawmiller]

Twin,

   Thanks for the photo. I will have to try and slightly modify for ovals a system like you show. I can cut a scrap buckeye log for the V notch as they are plentiful and I have not found a good market for them yet. Never tried cutting a slanted V but should work. Buckeye is often what I use for testing some new cutting procedure.

W58,

   Thanks. If I try something like you describe I guess I could cut a slant with my chainsaw and screw it to a scrap piece of 2X12 or such. Every angled cut with the chain could provide the starting point for 2 logs.

[Larry]

About 20 years ago I got a job cutting oval walnut cookies to make wall clocks.  I cut hundred's, probably over a thousand in a couple of years.  At the time I had a manual mill.  I welded up a frame that bolted to the mill rails.  Than another frame that I lag bolted to the bottom of log with 4 - 1-1/2" lag bolts.  Attached the two frames together with a couple of bolts.  The whole process took maybe a minute and securely held the log.  Had to slowly saw the first 5 or 6 slices or brace the log with a forked board.  It worked well.

Think I still have the jig, probably hidden away in my rat hole.

I think with your hydraulic clamp a jig could be designed that would be even easier to use.

[YellowHammer]

I use a crosstie with two notches cut in it with a chainsaw, one vertical notch for making flat cookies, one at an angle for making ovals.  Cut the notch shape so the corners bite into the log and the clamp is set.  I tried a "V" notch, it works, but the "U" seems to grip better.  It's very sturdy, and I've never had a log come loose.  I buck the "loggets" to 32 inches before I put them in the clamp.  This gives me over a dozen consecutive two inch cookies before I have to reload.  It goes surprisingly fast. 



Here's the video


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94vRxlxdA4I

[Brad_bb]

This is how I understood as it was described to me:



 

[LeeB]

Be careful with that 2x4 frame. Been there, done that, toasted a blade and bent the guards when one of the logs launched itself. It wasn't pretty.

[Quebecnewf]

The blades we use are " ripping" blades. Is there a blade that one could buy that would be better at this type of " crosscut" sawing.

A " crosscut" handsaw will not rip a board worth s#%# but a good hand " ripsaw will go through like butter. I think our blades are too aggressive for cross cutting hence the danger of grabbing and launching wood when we try to crosscut.

What I think
QUEBECNEWF

[WV Sawmiller]

Yellowhammer,

   A big War Eagle thanks you for the description and video. I'll try that.

Brad,

    I had not thought of cutting multiples like you show in your diagram but it if I end up cutting enough of them I may try that twist too. Don't see why it would not work if I keep everything wedged and clamped tight.

Quebecnewf,

   Since I would be cutting oak I would already be using a 4* blade which is lowest profile in my arsenal. You raise a good point.

[Brad_bb]

LeeB, you are supposed to screw thru the bottom of the plywood into the log chunks.  Did you have yours screwed and still ripped one out?  If you're cutting a smaller chunk, you could fill in the space in the box with wood blocks or wedges to tighten up the space.  I have not done this yet, so I don't know the likelihood of this.

[YellowHammer]

Yellowhammer,

   A big War Eagle thanks you for the description and video. I'll try that.

What?!  If I'd known you were an Auburn fan, I'd have talked slower.  :D

[tnaz]

Yellowhammer,

   A big War Eagle thanks you for the description and video. I'll try that.

What?!  If I'd known you were an Auburn fan, I'd have talked slower.  :D

That's not nice!!!  Now I'm cleaning screen and wiping eyes.
Still laughing.... :D :D :D

[dboyt]

A 3/4" pitch blade would be less likely to grab.  Main thing is good clamping technique.  First time I tried it the log spun around and kinked the blade.  Use a straight blade and don't push too hard, and you'll do fine.  Next step is to figure out how to keep 'em from cracking.

[WDH]

What?!  If I'd known you were an Auburn fan, I'd have talked slower.  :D

:D :D :D :D