OldJarheads Milling Thread...

[WV Sawmiller]

Lynn

   I did the same thing for a neighbor about a mile down the road. We were sawing in the bend of a mountain road/private drive back up in the woods. I drove in, disconnected the mill from my pick up at the bend, drove up and turned around with just enough room to pass the mill I and a couple of young neighbors (sons of the customer) spun the mill around. chocked the wheel and started sawing.

   Last Thursday I moved the mill closer to the log pile and we had to disconnect and move it by hand a few feet. Instances like that are what make me interested in the dolly.

[fluidpowerpro]

John that is pure genius! Now I'm sorry I gave away the second old (running) rototiller I had! I'll have to keep my eyes open for another one now. That is genius!

Oh sure! Johns the genius! What's wrong with my snow blower concept? Jeez....  :D

[Old Greenhorn]

Sorry FPP, I didn't see that reply and I meant no offence.  ;D  I do think there would be a lot of fab changes to make the snow blower work and get the load over the wheels. The idea of taking off the tine and putting wheels on the same shafts just struck me as very simple and effective only needing a hitch. Around here the old rototillers come up much more often than a cheap snow blower and nobody gives them away. This time of year, the sell pretty good.

[fluidpowerpro]

Wasn't offended. Just had to give you a hard time! 

[OlJarhead]

Yup!  Me too.

[rusticretreater]

Yeah, that is a pretty cool idea.  Tillers come up all the time on craigslist.  Another project to consider.

The harbor freight dolly would not work at all on rough ground.  I have seen the tires and they are china stuff and not gonna be good for much.  You need a bigger tire diameter to make it easy to overcome rough spots.  The smaller tires would get stuck even on small branches.

[Peter Drouin]

I do it by eye, Can level a 20' log to within an 1". Takes time to develop your eye, but you can do it.
 Good luck with your fix.

[Old Greenhorn]

Wasn't offended. Just had to give you a hard time!  

That's what I'm here for! ;D

[OlJarhead]

Why is this SO SATISFYING? Doug Fir On The SAWMILL [Woodmizer LT40] - YouTube
Meanwhile, I did it AGAIN!  I'm wondering if a laser will help me adjust before doing this in the future.

It actually pisses me off royally when I see it -- I've been known to go back and look at several logs in a row when someone 'suggests' I've split the pith  : ;D :D :P

Truth is, it really annoys me.  I know better, shouldn't do it and then am editing a video and thinking "DanGit!  That was too close bud!"....

When I do this, I do advise the customer on it and how I'd change it (cut the beam down to FOHC 4x8 instead of 6x8 etc)...but I need to take a look at my beam making..

[Jack S]

put a receiver on the front of your truck and it is real easy to move equipment around. I put one on the front of my tractors to move and position equipment. 

[ladylake]

Why is this SO SATISFYING? Doug Fir On The SAWMILL [Woodmizer LT40] - YouTube
Meanwhile, I did it AGAIN!  I'm wondering if a laser will help me adjust before doing this in the future.

It actually pisses me off royally when I see it -- I've been known to go back and look at several logs in a row when someone 'suggests' I've split the pith  : ;D :D :P

Truth is, it really annoys me.  I know better, shouldn't do it and then am editing a video and thinking "DanGit!  That was too close bud!"....

When I do this, I do advise the customer on it and how I'd change it (cut the beam down to FOHC 4x8 instead of 6x8 etc)...but I need to take a look at my beam making..

 In all these years and hundreds of customers I've never had anyone say anything  about the pith.  Steve

[Magicman]

Neither have I and why should they?  It's the sawyer's job to avoid pith edged boards and to produce high quality boards/lumber.

Erik, Before you open faces, I am not seeing you establish a targeted cant within the log which will avoid pith surprises.  Each board removed should be taking you to that targeted cant.  Maybe you are, I am just not seeing it.

[WV Sawmiller]

Eric,

That log with the rot on the end reminded me of last weeks job where at the end the customer threw a 16' poplar log on the mill and said he needed 2 each 16' 2X6's but to cut 3 so he'd have a spare. I cut a couple of flitches working down towards a 6" cant in the center then we noticed it had a couple feet of rot (which I suspect is what yours had) so they would not work for his needs but fortunately I was able to get 6" width out of the jacket boards so he got what he needed.

 Mostly we were cutting 3/4" X 8" siding boards and with some small logs so I'd throw the log on the mill, level it and saw the outer slab off 4" from the heart check then flip 180 and saw at 8" so that gave me the 8" cant with the pith/heart centered. Sometimes there was only a 5-6 inch of open face so I'd only get 5-6 clean 8" wide boards but that was all the log would make and all the customer wanted. He had a detailed cut list and when he threw the last 10' log on the loader arms he asked his grandson how many more 10' boards we needed and the GS told us "2" so that worked out to complete his cut list with 8-9 extras. He had been sweating bullets whether he had enough logs to complete his cut list/finish his project.

Anyway I was just pointing out to remember to measure from the center up as your mark to keep those boards/beams with the pith centered.

I was happy to see you cut that crooked log. I tell my customers they will get more and better lumber lots of time by cutting at the curve to straighten out the log but that only works if they can use the shorter lumber. Sometimes they just have to have 3-4 16' long 2Xs instead of 12-15 8' 2Xs. At least it is their decision and they know what to expect.

 As to splitting the heart I had a customer last year who was timberframing curved buildings at his campground and wanted the maximum yield. I explained and even showed him how they would bow if we cut the pith and when he saw the curve he said that would work perfectly for what he was doing so that's how I cut them. He made the decision and was totally happy with it.

[Crusarius]

ONe last detour on trailer moving. I used a c-clamp and clamped a ball onto the foot board of my zero turn mower. Worked like a charm. almost to good because the trailer could now move in all directions.

[OlJarhead]

I think my mill is too heavy for that at 4000lbs!

[Crusarius]

On flat ground you would probably be fine. But any hills at all and I bet it would be a wild ride

[WV Sawmiller]

Cru,

   I routinely and easily move mine here at home all the time with my ATV. The little dolly I am thinking is mostly for field use where I do not have such available.  

[Crusarius]

Those small dollies actually work really well. especially if someone is steering and someone else is pushing.

[doc henderson]

 

 

from inside the track loader

[OlJarhead]

Ha!  See what I did there? ;)  8) ;D
FOHC IT, BOX IT, Or Mill It Out - Making Beams On The #sawmill [Woodmizer LT40] - YouTube

[ladylake]

Neither have I and why should they?  It's the sawyer's job to avoid pith edged boards and to produce high quality boards/lumber.

Erik, Before you open faces, I am not seeing you establish a targeted cant within the log which will avoid pith surprises.  Each board removed should be taking you to that targeted cant.  Maybe you are, I am just not seeing it.

I must do a bad job, most of my customers have tablesaw to cut the pith off on the one or two boards that would have it and they
would rather have me saw lumber than spend too long  piddling around trying to get it just perfect  .   steve

[MattM]

I think what @Magicman is saying (correct me if I'm wrong) is that when Erik opens his first two faces he's not making his first cut on each face so that he ends up with the pith centered in whatever he's cutting.

This is something I've noticed in his videos and props to Erik for even posting them, he does a great job on the production value.
But I have noticed he does alot of thin correction cuts on most logs. Sometimes you do need to do this if when you get into a log you find something wrong with it, but he does it on most logs which is a waste of a cut.

Also when you goto the center of the length of the log and then drop 1.5" to make your first face cut you arent setting up your final can't.... You end up with your pith in a random place, thus the thin cut is needed to correct things.

When you level your pith you should be doing mental math to figure out what your first cut will be to center the pith for whatever size lumber your trying to get out of that log.

For example if your pith is 10" above the deck and your trying to get 6" lumber then you should end up with a cut at 13ish inches. Then you add whatever else you need to get above that(ie 13" + 2 1/8 + 2 1/8+ 1 1/8 ect) whatever number you end up with is your first cut.

Edit:
Something I forgot to add is instead of going halfway down your log to figure out your first cut you could measure the small side once the pith is centered to figure it out. I do all this before even centering the pith which saves a boat load of time.... But I'm really good at mental math so that's easy for me to do. Some may have to measure after centering.

[OlJarhead]

Hmmmm the progression of a sawyer on FF perhaps.

Here's what I learned here years ago:

1. Open the first face to a board width that the customer wants (ie. 4", 6" etc)
2. Open the second face the same way.
3.  Target the width or height on the 3rd face and 4th face.
4.  Since no laser and to not waste a lot of time figuring out the 1st opening face cut/ slab cut, go to center, drop 1.5" and start there.

Those things I learned here years ago -- in some cases a dozen years ago.

So it's true.

I've often thought about what MM has said "I am targeting my cant on the first cut" and thought "Hmmm...."

It's also true that I sometimes fight the pith.  I start out saying "I want this size cant", open the first face making sure I leave enough meat in the log for the opposing face.  Open the second the same way, in both cases attempting to leave an opening to allow a flitch (or flitches) if possible that will have enough meat in them to edge into useful wood.

On my 3rd face I shoot for either my width or height depending on what I'm milling.

One problem I face is customer requirements.  For example, one customer might want 2x8's that are 1 3/4 x 7 3/4 and the next wants 1 5/8 x 7 5/8 and then this one wanted 1 5/8 x 7 1/4....each one requires a different cant target and sometimes, I'll admit, I get ahead of myself and start making the wrong size.

I also find that you will either adjust the cant sooner or later.  Meaning, if you don't perfectly make ever single choice you're going to correct it somewhere.

I suspect one difference is I'm still a relative rookie compared to MM or PD, YH and Jake...heck, I'm barely scraping 200Mbf now ;)  Not an excuse, just I can see a BIG difference between me and a 2 million plus BF sawyer.

So, I have some learning to do.  I think I need to go back to the drawing board on opening the face and change my way of thinking.

I will say though, the job these videos are from was for a very high end builder (retired) and my 10th visit.  He had a door maker (and made them himself as well) so very knowledgeable (more so than me by a thousand miles).  The point?  Yes I make mistakes and yes I'm not the best sawyer out there by any stretch but on the other hand my repeat customers like what I produce (and I'm not cheap).  

Maybe I'm just lucky but let me say this:

1.  I need to think long and hard on MM's point and work towards perfecting that -- and when I have that lightbulb moment I'll have to make a video and explain it.  I think my video would be about progressing from a hack sawyer to a pro ;)

2.  I appreciate ALL of the feedback!  Last time MM pointed out the pith I was a little miffed (sorry) because I work hard NOT to do that...but then on later videos I did it...and did it again.  Not like every log, not even every other log...no, but I have done it, see where I goofed and think "OK, you need to fix that bub".

One of the most challenging parts of making YT videos is excepting that your faults are going to wide out there in the open for potentially millions of people to see   But I'm ok with that and the reason I often point out my errors.  Only way to learn is to do something and find out what you're doing wrong and learn to fix it!

So no worries!  I'll get better :D

[MattM]

FWIW I think you should try not to be so hard on yourself in your video commentary. I understand that as a YouTuber your going to have people point out every single mistake they think you make but you should try to ignore it. It seems like almost every video your focused on pointing out your 'mistakes'. Like your trying to beat others too it.

If someone says you did something wrong and you agree then try to do it better in the future.... If someone points out something and you think they're wrong then don't worry about what they think. The fact of the matter is you seem to be doing very well sawing for a living and have consistent business and lots of return customers.

I know that if I was a potential customer, or a current customer for any type of tradesman and I saw videos talking about all the mistakes someone made I would look elsewhere. Just my opinion. And everyone makes mistakes at some point.

[OlJarhead]

Thanks for that.

Funny thing is, I used to write for a car magazine and my 'shtick' was to poke fun at myself.

But you're probably right.

I think for the most part it's just sawyers who point things out ;)  Heck, I've done it myself but one thing I try to do is teach others (which seems kinds arrogant maybe lol) but one way I do that is by sharing when I make mistakes and how I fix them.

I guess the key is to not make mistakes!  :

Funny thing though, everything I do I either learned here (mostly) or figured out on my own (less so)....so learning that what I learned here is the wrong approach, or that I didn't get the message quite right makes future messages/learning opportunities a little harder to take....

Sorta "do this"  wait, don't do that!