Help! I purchased a LT40 last years from a friend that was hanging up his blades. I saw for fun and to take my mind off other things. Since I bought the mill I replaced the rollers on the frame and did all the measurement according to the manual. Here's my problem. For some reason the blade has started rising then go back down to create a wave when I enter the cant. Then it will level out and then about half way through a 12' cant it will wave then stop and level out. I've tried slowing down a little on entering but doesn't seem to help. Tension is correct for the blade that I'm using (WM). I haven't called WM yet, thought I'd start here first. I have read a bunch of posts on here and have learned a lot from you guys. Thanks from a newbie.
1 dull blade, dull blade
2 guide roller alignment
3 not enough tension
Most new owners have trouble telling when to swap blades...
I had a similar problem and I found out that the outboard blade guide roller was out of adjustment.
And then you are probably entering the butt end of the log which sometime has it's own surprises. After all of the above spot on advice has been done/followed, turn the log around and enter from the top end.
And Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
Where are you located?
What wood are you cutting?
Does the log have any significant branch knots?
What HP motor on that mill?
What degree band are you using?
Are you sure the tension is right?
Are you sure your guides are set right?
Is your drive belt tension set correctly?
Cooks has some great videos on diving and rising blades...video 13 through 18....enjoy and welcome to the FF.
https://youtu.be/x6oBsl_zDOY
Check for sawdust on band wheels :P
Welcome to the Forestry Forum, DAR!
If your sawing wide dried out hardwood try a 4° blade, 10° like to rise at the start of a cut a lot more.. Steve
Thanks guys you gave me a lot to look at. I'm located in Virginia and sawing Hemlock for a barn and shed. There is quit a few knots in the wood. I do start my cuts from the small end of the log. I saw maybe 2 or 3 24" logs per blade. Is that to much? The engine is a Kohler G25.
That doesn't sound like you're getting good life from your blades, before sharpening!
You should "normally" be able to saw quite a few more logs before changing the blade!
Then, when it starts acting up, switch it out!
I've seen this type of wave before, often times it comes from a blade that seems sharp, but for some or other reason won't saw straight. I've seen blades in the same box just not saw good. The other thing to check, unless I missed it, would be the drive belt tension. If it continues to wave at the exact same spots on every log/cant, you may have other issues on the rail itself,,
DAR,
Welcome to the FF. Where in Va are you located? Please update your profile to help us out.
I'm running a 25 hp Kohler and I tend to use a 4 degree band when cutting knotty logs like pine or hemlock. The wood is soft enough for 10 degree blades but the knots want to jump so I find the 4 degree works best for me. Good luck.
Hi guys
I hear a lot of talking about 4 degree blades. The "problem" is, that I did not found Woodmizer 4 degree blades for 1 1/4 (32mm) only for 1 1/2 inch (38mm).
I would need it for my Woodmizer LT20 and I do not know if I can "fit" 1 1/2 blades into it.
Regards, Dejan
Kasco, a sponsor on the left of the page, has the blades you're looking for. Cutting Edge, a member here, is a factory direct representative for them. Click on the Kasco link, fill out the blade request and you'll have awesome blades in no time. It's the best move I've made so far. My mill loves the Kasco blades.
Dejan, I have no idea regarding the availability of blades in Slovenia. I would contact the Wood-Mizer Dealer.
All of my blades are 1-1/4, and 4 degree blades are available here. Woodmizer double hard, 0.045" thick.
Pretty much everything has been said, and X2 to Dr. Obertson on checking the drive belt tension. WM has a gauge to set that tension. Also, the alignment of the guide rollers is crucial. They need to be flat to the bunks and have 1/4" of down pressure on the blade. WM also sells a gauge for leveling the roller guides. Another thing not mentioned is the blade body curvature. The blade has to be flat or have a slight dish on the inside of the blade so that the guides can guide it properly. I have had many brand new blades that wouldn't cut before rolling them flat. Cook's sells a blade roller. Many places that sharpen blades do only that, sharpen (and set). But they don't all roll the blade flat. When you get the wavy cuts, shut down the mill, keep full tension on the blade and stick a brand new razor blade (to use for a straight edge) on the inside of the blade in between the guides. If the razor can wobble back and forth (if there is daylight on the outside edges) the blade needs rolled flat. If you see daylight in the center just a little bit then thats not your problem
Quote from: Magicman on June 14, 2017, 05:27:58 PM
Dejan, I have no idea regarding the availability of blades in Slovenia. I would contact the Wood-Mizer Dealer.
Well, you see ... how can I put it right way ... WM dealer in Slovenia did not know that 7 degree blades exists. I told them and gave them serial / part number, so now I have it ;) ;)
On WM European website, there is no 4 degree blades with 1 1/4.
http://www.woodmizer-europe.com/Products/Blades/DoubleHARD
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45032/WM_blades.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1497531560)
I will definitely check on Kasco blades.
Thank you all
I am surprised at the thickness (actually thinnest) of the blades that are offered. Our blades are normally are .045, .050, and .055.
Wood-Mizer is not the only blade out there, frankly, I wonder why folks still hold so fast to this. These blades broke on a constant cycle when I used them, they work, they just break, at least on my mill. Kasco blades if possible to obtain for those in search would be well worth trying,.
Dejan, I overlooked the fact that you have an LT20. My apology, as I have no experience with the LT20.
I have not experienced the blade breakage problem that drobertson commented on in the above reply. Many years ago I had an entire box of blades to break in the weld and the problem was isolated to a particular welder. They were all replaced under warranty.
Thanks for the information you gave. I installed new rollers on both sides, new blade and replaced the main belt. One problem. Set the blade pressure at 2400lbs and the inside roller has pressure on it and rolls with the blade all the time. The outside roller doesn't roll at all. Is there a distance from the roller that the blade has to be set with a feeler gauge? The WM manual doesn't say anything about it at all.
The blade guides on most sawmills are set ¼" below the bandwheels.
I think your blade is not level with the bunks, with the blade tensioned back the guide rollers off the blade so they're not touching then measure from the blade to the deck (measure several bunks to make sure one isn't bent ), I think WM recommends the blade should be 1/16 higher on the outside, then adjust both guide rollers to push the blade down 1/4". Also how is the round rail that the head rides on? I've seen one that was half wore off in the middle which I think would make the head tilt different in the middle where the most wear was. Steve