Foundation for run in shed.

[Dave Shepard]

I'm building a horse run in shed and I'm not sure what people are doing for ground contact issues. The plan now is to use black locust sills on a crushed stone base. The only issue is running the siding down the sides of the sills. Looking for ideas, thanks.

A quick sketch of the run in shed, still some tweaking to do.. Probably going to run the plates long and add fly rafters, and maybe a little king post to support the front plate in the middle, and another post in the back wall.

[Jim_Rogers]

one or two horizontal boards at the bottom out of some rot resistant wood may help the bottom stay longer. have the vertical siding boards rest on them with maybe a piece of z flashing between them.

Jim Rogers

[GAB]

Dave:
Do you need it that tall?
Personally I'd find out what the max. allowed road height is and try to stay under it by a little when loaded on a low-boy trailer.  You may want to sell it in the future and getting road permits may be a challenge.    
Concerning your statement: "maybe a little king post to support the front plate in the middle"
It would probably be a great idea for that occasional snow/ice storm weight episode New England is noted for, however it would need to be very sturdy as the horses will want to use it as a scratching post.
Gerald

[thecfarm]

I made openings about 6 wide on my run in and made a partition in the middle. I wanted to keep them separate to eat. I put a pressure treated 6 inch board on the bottom. This was 15 years ago. All is still good. We fed the horses in there, but they did not go in there much. They would face it when it was snowing, but not go in.

[Dave Shepard]

The kingpost would be between the plate and the beam going across the opening. It would not go to the ground. This is being built  on site. It's not getting moved.

[Dave Shepard]

Jim, I think you have put me on to the solution. I'm going to make the sills bigger, like a brick shelf, and use some Z flashing to keep the water out. 



 

[Bruno of NH]

Even with the flashing I would still cut the bottom of the boards at 15°

[scsmith42]

Years ago I built a 16 x 32' run in shed here on the farm.  The bottom horizontal course that the board and batten is nailed to is a combination of cedar and boric acid treated white oak.  No problems in almost 20 years.

The posts are a combination of recycled utility poles and cedar poles.  Still very solid.




 

[Bruno of NH]

Scott,
I like the design of your shed

[scsmith42]

Scott,
I like the design of your shed

Thanks!  The stalls are 16x16 each, with a 4' overhang front and rear.  The ridge is a couple of feet longer on each side too.  It's set up so that we could put 16' gates across each side to lock the horses in if needed..
One thing that I did not take into account when I built it was prevailing wind/rain.  If I had it to do over again I'd orientate it differently.  

[Dana Stanley]

I wouldn't use the flashing it will just make a place for water to be trapped. I would make a slight angle on the bottom of the pine board, bring it onto the sill an inch. It will dry faster than with the flashing, you can turn your sill, so the siding is 8" above grade, or just use 8x8 and it would be 7" above grade.

Plus the way you have it drawn, you will need to add a nailer for the bottom of the boards!