Husqvarna 2100CD

[fossil]

Great thread!

[Koot Kraftsman]

Ya know, I've never really considered myself a "Husky man", I like almost all saws.  However, I knew I'd be moving to mountainous Montana wilderness and to clear land, build a large timber frame barn/shop and house as well as many other structures plus firewood from the timber on the land, I knew I would need to add a few big girls to my fleet.  While I have dozens of saws (and know many of them intimately), they are in the 50-60cc range with a few older 70cc saws.  I began my research years ago into bigger saws that can be my workhorses for building the homestead from raw land and decidedly set my mind to getting my hands on a 372XP for felling and a 395XP for milling.  

Fast forward a year or so, I still hadn't pulled the trigger on the saws because I hadn't needed them where I am currently, then one day while doing some heavy equipment trading, I ran into a local logger who wanted one of my crawler loaders BAD (because it had a mean winch on the rear) and to sweeten the deal, I talked him into trading his professionally ported 3 yr old 372XP, a '83 2100CD and a 200T.  The 372 is amazing (I had never run a ported saw until then) and it is in absolutely perfect condition.  The 200T runs but needs a little cosmetic work and some tuning (hopefully that's all it needs).  The 2100... It needed a good deep cleaning, some cosmetic work and a tune up.  Now that that is done, I will say this... I've never run a saw like that before.  The slow chain speed and high torque really caught me off guard for a bit but man can that big girl chew some wood... made me feel like a neat-o' man! After that experience, I realized I had been really missing out.  

I know there are ways of un-governing the RPM and making it a faster saw but I kinda dig the low grunt, slow speed torquiness she delivers.  What would a guy gain by un-governing one of these 2100's and how would a fella even go about doing that?  As far as I know, it's completely stock and original, didn't see any porting work.  She is strong... I mean real strong but then again I don't have anything else that is even in the same ballpark yet to compare it to.  Would YOU un-govern?  If so, why? 

Not being a Husky man, I didn't know anything about the saw when I traded for it and told the guy such and that I'd be willing to take the risk and put a value of $200 into the trade (put the same value on the 200T 😁).  Needless to say, after doing my homework on the saw, I feel like I scored pretty good and seeing what an impact the saw had on the history of logging makes it even more special.

Now I'm stuck deciding what to do with it... most of my saws serve one purpose... felling, bucking, milling, ground work, etc.  part of me wants to throw a 4' bar on her and set her up for milling, another part of me wants to put a 3' bar on her for felling... what do you guys think would be the best use for a saw this size and capability?

 

[Real1shepherd]

Ya know, I've never really considered myself a "Husky man", I like almost all saws.  However, I knew I'd be moving to mountainous Montana wilderness and to clear land, build a large timber frame barn/shop and house as well as many other structures plus firewood from the timber on the land, I knew I would need to add a few big girls to my fleet.  While I have dozens of saws (and know many of them intimately), they are in the 50-60cc range with a few older 70cc saws.  I began my research years ago into bigger saws that can be my workhorses for building the homestead from raw land and decidedly set my mind to getting my hands on a 372XP for felling and a 395XP for milling.  

Fast forward a year or so, I still hadn't pulled the trigger on the saws because I hadn't needed them where I am currently, then one day while doing some heavy equipment trading, I ran into a local logger who wanted one of my crawler loaders BAD (because it had a mean winch on the rear) and to sweeten the deal, I talked him into trading his professionally ported 3 yr old 372XP, a '83 2100CD and a 200T.  The 372 is amazing (I had never run a ported saw until then) and it is in absolutely perfect condition.  The 200T runs but needs a little cosmetic work and some tuning (hopefully that's all it needs).  The 2100... It needed a good deep cleaning, some cosmetic work and a tune up.  Now that that is done, I will say this... I've never run a saw like that before.  The slow chain speed and high torque really caught me off guard for a bit but man can that big girl chew some wood... made me feel like a neat-o' man! After that experience, I realized I had been really missing out.  

I know there are ways of un-governing the RPM and making it a faster saw but I kinda dig the low grunt, slow speed torquiness she delivers.  What would a guy gain by un-governing one of these 2100's and how would a fella even go about doing that?  As far as I know, it's completely stock and original, didn't see any porting work.  She is strong... I mean real strong but then again I don't have anything else that is even in the same ballpark yet to compare it to.  Would YOU un-govern?  If so, why?

Not being a Husky man, I didn't know anything about the saw when I traded for it and told the guy such and that I'd be willing to take the risk and put a value of $200 into the trade (put the same value on the 200T ).  Needless to say, after doing my homework on the saw, I feel like I scored pretty good and seeing what an impact the saw had on the history of logging makes it even more special.

Now I'm stuck deciding what to do with it... most of my saws serve one purpose... felling, bucking, milling, ground work, etc.  part of me wants to throw a 4' bar on her and set her up for milling, another part of me wants to put a 3' bar on her for felling... what do you guys think would be the best use for a saw this size and capability?

The HS carb on the 2100 has a brass governor which limits the saw to around 10,000-10,300rpm unloaded. Very easy to do...fellow logger friends used to brag about making a plug out of beer cans....I used brass shim stock. 1/4" hollow punch makes the perfect plug. Take the gov plug out, put the shim plug in over the tiny washer of the gov and screw the gov plug back in.

HUGE caveat here!! These saws have been unsupported for decades and prices for internals are beyond crazy. I run my 2100's at close to 11,000rpm with a tach and @40:1. But I was a pro and would not advise higher than 10,300rpm for most owners, you included.

If you have a tach and the saw is somewhere between 10,000-10,500rpm, just leave it. The one danger with the gov working is to keep going lean trying to get more rpm. You'll ruin your saw that way.

HIGH should never be screwed in less than 3/4 turn...EVER! If you're going IN further than that to tune your saw, you've got an air leak or you don't know what you're doing.

Happy to help with any 2100/2101 questions! Keep that saw buried in wood;it's not meat for cutting and limbing slash.

The low-end torque is a construct of the bore & stroke, two rings, dome piston etc....more rpm does not lessen the low-end torque. If you're going to mill with it, I'd leave the gov intact. Make sure it's cleaned in an USC.

A more supported saw would be the 395....it would do anything you want and you wouldn't be sweating where to get parts for the 2100.  

Kevin

[donbj]

From a collector standpoint don't alter a stock 2100 or other big cube classic. It's just wrong!😂. It's like altering a numbers muscle car from the good old days, just wrong!

[Koot Kraftsman]

Thanks for the words of wisdom.  The hair on the back of my neck stands up if I take the high jet in past 1 turn, I've never had a high jet at 3/4 on any saw I've owned and probably never will so no need to worry that I'll cook the saw, at least not because of that.  If anything, I tend to run mine a little fat to be on the safe side.  

I probably won't mess with it's current state outside of making it correct fixing issues like my busted oil cap that won't stop leaking...help is on the way and other odds and ends missing like screws and oil line (and subsequently a new exhaust gasket haha).  I've never been one of those guys that feels a need to hot rod everything in his shop, I'm usually just the opposite, especially with special equipment.  When I want something to last as long as possible, I will leave it bone stock

I am just barely learning how to port but I have dozens of other candidates for that learning curve, plus I'd be porting saws simply to learn them and have fun.

I know what you mean on the parts for these old gals, the air filter that is on her now is in pretty bad shape IMO so I went on eBay to find a new one and there was two options... a used one in good shape for $23 or a NOS for $70!  Needless to say I went with option 1, I just couldn't bring myself to pay 70 bucks on an air filter, that's insane.  The $23 was a hard enough pill to swallow.  I've had to round up a few other parts that were missing as well but so far it's only been small stuff.

Again on the parts side of things, I have owned 4 dozers and many tractors, all older than I am, as well as many older saws (mainly vintage Macs and Stihl with a few Homelites, JD and even a big Remington. Point being that I am no stranger to the parts game for older equipment.

I am indeed thinking hard about dressing her up in a ripping chain and set her up to be my primary milling saw.  I'd have a fairly long bar on her because I also own a bandsaw mill and the CSM will only be used for timber that won't fit in the mill or wood that needs to be milled in place because it doesn't make sense to move it.

I'm still keeping my eyes open for the right 395 to call my name and I have my sight set on one already.

[sidehill6]

you could also change your drive sprocket to increase your chain speed with no alterations to the carb or internals, 2100 has plenty of grunt to pull a taller gear

[Al_Smith]

Historically these and brands like Partner ,Stihl in this size saws seems to be a Pacific North West thing .Seldom seen in these parts mainly because they were expensive .As for brands I'd imagine it was a Ford / Chevy ---Farmall /John-Deere thing .
The only reason I own a 2100CD is two fold .First of all it was inexpensive,90 and shipping from Washington state .Plus it's rare in these parts .I'm a collector/restorer .I'm fully capable of building a cookie cutter and have but some saws really don't need modified .IMO this is one of them .
It's very seldom I even use mine because I seldom get into wood large enough to pull it off the shelf .On the rare occasion I do usually ,even after sitting two years it lights right off .I seriously doubt I'll wear it out in my life time .

[Real1shepherd]

Thanks for the words of wisdom.  The hair on the back of my neck stands up if I take the high jet in past 1 turn, I've never had a high jet at 3/4 on any saw I've owned and probably never will so no need to worry that I'll cook the saw, at least not because of that.  If anything, I tend to run mine a little fat to be on the safe side.  

I probably won't mess with it's current state outside of making it correcting issue like my busted oil cap that won't stop leaking...help is on the way.  I've never been one of those guys that feels a need to hot rod everything in his shop, I'm usually just the opposite, especially with special equipment.  When I want something to last as long as possible, I will leave it bone stock

I am just barely learning how to port but I have dozens of other candidates for that learning curve, plus I'd be porting saws simply to learn them and have fun.

I know what you mean on the parts for these old gals, the air filter that is on her now is in pretty bad shape IMO so I went on eBay to find a new one and there was two options... a used one in good shape for $23 or a NOS for $70!  Needless to say I went with option 1, I just couldn't bring myself to pay 70 bucks on an air filter, that's insane.  The $23 was a hard enough pill to swallow.  I've had to round up a few other parts that were missing as well but so far it's only been small stuff.

Again on the parts side of things, I have owned 4 dozers and many tractors, all older than I am, as well as many older saws (mainly vintage Macs and Stihl with a few Homelites, JD and even a big Remington. Point being that I am no stranger to the parts game for older equipment.

I am indeed thinking hard about dressing her up in a ripping chain and set her up to be my primary milling saw.  I'd have a fairly long bar on her because I also own a bandsaw mill and the CSM will only be used for timber that won't fit in the mill or wood that needs to be milled in place because it doesn't make sense to move it.

I'm still keeping my eyes open for the right 395 to call my name and I have my sight set on one already.

You'll be fine then, running it fat. With no air leaks you'll be gold at no further than one turn on HIGH.

Actually, you got a good price on the used air filter these days. I have a J'reds 80 that takes the flocked round filters and they are insanely high now. Used to be a guy on eBay that had new ones for around $40 for yrs. Occasionally, he would dip down and I'd buy...cat & mouse. If you just have a small hole or rip in a nylon AF like the 2100's...you can fix it with clear nail polish(the strongest). I've never seen that stuff wear out. Obviously, you want as much surface area as possible, but small holes and tears are OK to fix.

I'd be reluctant to use the 2100 for a milling saw only because of the parts issue. If you could find another running one for a decent price, it could feed parts into your main one for yrs. Otherwise, you'll have to pay the piper on repair parts. On the other hand, the saw gets used that way instead of being a shelf queen. I'm therefore torn on how to advise you.

Yes, keep looking for a 395.

Kevin

[Real1shepherd]

Another option would be to find a Husky 3120 that's had an easy life....for your milling. Probably not as desirable a saw on the used market as a 395. But with COVID, I dunno.

As I said in another thread, the carb can be converted to have an adjustable HIGH needle jet again, as it should. And you can buy an 'unlimited' coil for it too if you want. That's like a 'forever' milling saw and parts are plentiful.

Kevin

[Koot Kraftsman]

Another option would be to find a Husky 3120 that's had an easy life....for your milling. Probably not as desirable a saw on the used market as a 395. But with COVID, I dunno.

As I said in another thread, the carb can be converted to have an adjustable HIGH needle jet again, as it should. And you can buy an 'unlimited' coil for it too if you want. That's like a 'forever' milling saw and parts are plentiful.

Kevin

Interestingly enough, I have been looking into 3120's... I'll post something if I get lucky haha

[Real1shepherd]

Another option would be to find a Husky 3120 that's had an easy life....for your milling. Probably not as desirable a saw on the used market as a 395. But with COVID, I dunno.

As I said in another thread, the carb can be converted to have an adjustable HIGH needle jet again, as it should. And you can buy an 'unlimited' coil for it too if you want. That's like a 'forever' milling saw and parts are plentiful.

Kevin

Interestingly enough, I have been looking into 3120's... I'll post something if I get lucky haha

Look at the "Saw Shortage" thread. ehp claims he has converted a lot of 3120's to an unlimited 272 coil. Easier to do if the factory coil is green versus the factory black coil. I read that in the saw forums too.

OTOH, you could leave the coil alone and just have the carb modded to take an adjustable HIGH speed needle jet and tune it fat for milling. Also, I'm told the early 3120's had a primer bulb wherein it pulled from the gas tank and dropped gas onto a wick in the carb. I haven't heard anyone 'liking' that system, but expensive to replace with an updated carb. Probably try to stay away from that iteration unless you get a 'deal'. OE primer bulbs are NLA and you'd have to drill out and refit another bulb anyway.  

Kevin

[Al_Smith]

Since you mentioned it a 272 Husky coil will also work on a Partner P-100 plus after market is inexpensive, like 15 bucks .I've heard the sermon to use OEM only but I don't buy in to it  in every situation .

[Real1shepherd]

Well that's the thing about aftermarket, AL, it's hit & miss. Some people have had good experiences and some very poor.

In vintage cars, often the factory has abandoned support......so it's the junkyard for used parts, or aftermarket....much like unsupported chainsaws. It's no secret that a LOT of aftermarket P&C's are junk for everyday use. But like I was 'educated' in here, a lot of casual use owners will never know the difference and/or care. Especially if your chainsaw budget is $50 and anything after that is excessive to you.

But that's not to say putting $450 on new OE into an old well-worn Squeal is the way to go either. These days, I look for good, used OE parts or mostly complete saw bodies.

Kevin

[donbj]

Well that's the thing about aftermarket, AL, it's hit & miss. Some people have had good experiences and some very poor.

In vintage cars, often the factory has abandoned support......so it's the junkyard for used parts, or aftermarket....much like unsupported chainsaws. It's no secret that a LOT of aftermarket P&C's are junk for everyday use. But like I was 'educated' in here, a lot of casual use owners will never know the difference and/or care. Especially if your chainsaw budget is $50 and anything after that is excessive to you.

But that's not to say putting $450 on new OE into an old well-worn Squeal is the way to go either. These days, I look for good, used OE parts or mostly complete saw bodies.

Kevin

Same here Kevin, I like original. If I can't find original serviceable parts it'll sit on the shelf til I do. That's just the collectible aspect in my adventure I have going. Got a couple 288's to add to the batch

[Al_Smith]

I'm not on the stump preaching after market but I do know with a back ground of working in the auto industry often times AM and OEM are the same thing if you can verify it .If it comes in a plain box or one that advertises a company makes no difference in the long haul  .In fact some AM parts for automobiles are better than OEM .What you are doing is jumping ahead of the line and cutting out several layers of the supply line chain  .Everybody gets a piece of that pie . 
Rather than become a bore with details ,not saw related one example .Take a Ford blend door actuator for heating/AC  which was  known to be defective and used on everything from Escorts to Lincolns I used AM .This unit .imported of course was robust and 1/3 the price of dealer supplied units . I'll just stop on that for now .

[donbj]

I'm sure there are some good aftermarket products out there. My goal is stock saws so that is the main significant reason why I don't use them in my collection. If the manufacturer doesn't make a certain item it leaves little choice if you need your saw running.

[Koot Kraftsman]

Does anyone know what the "CD" stands for in 2100CD?

[sawguy21]

Capacitor Discharge (breakerless) ignition which was relatively new at the time

[Koot Kraftsman]

Thanks Sawguy, I'm sure I'm not the only one that was curious.  

[Real1shepherd]

And like most things...there's a 'story' around the first models that had 'XP' on the cover. I got it straight from a rep on the entire west coast for Husky that it meant hotter spark. For loggers like me working in the PNW.

Later it came to be strengthened cranks and whatnot, but when it came out on the 2100, it was just a hotter spark for wet conditions. I found this out because I wanted to replace a module and the choices were CD or XP CD. 

Kevin