Stihl 2 in 1 Easy File

[High_Water]

I've been using one of these for a while and I really like the convenience in the field, but I'm having an issue with the bar/chain pulling to the left as I go through a cut. I've noticed that when I use the file one direction seems easier or smoother than the other and I'm almost sure that's what is causing the problem. I'm pretty careful about holding the right angles and keeping the file perpendicular to the bar but I'll admit to not using a vice in the field. I usually only make about 10 quick low-pressure passes with the file, but I have done more when the teeth are particularly dull and it has made a noticeable difference. I'm still pretty green to all this and I get my chains professionally sharpened eventually.

Any tips or ideas on what I'm doing wrong or is that just the nature of the beast. I apologize if this is an old topic but I didn't find anything in a quick search.

[lxskllr]

If you're good at taking pictures, a closeup of the teeth on both sides might help people determine a cause. Generally speaking, people tend to sharpen one side of the chain better than the other. It's more comfortable to hold, and easier to maintain the correct angles. You also may be waiting too long to sharpen, making it harder to maintain the proper edge. If you're cutting hardwood, hitting the teeth every tank of gas isn't too much; just a stroke to two to maintain performance. If you only sharpen when the saw's making dust, you waited too long.

edit:
Oh, and make sure your file's good. I use ~3 files per chain. It's a consumable item, and doesn't work well when they get old.

[CUT N RUN]

like @lxskllr mentioned , most people have a dominant side . but it sounds like you may be  sharpening all teeth from the same side ? this is wrong . ( by the book )
do you have only 1 chain ? if so , buy a new one and see if problem persists .
if you have more than 1 , and all chains pull angle when cutting , you may have a bar issue.
here is some very good , free , STIHL information
Sharp Advice for Chainsaw Owners - Saw Chain & Guide Bars Maintenance Guide | STIHL (stihlusa.com)
---- maybe moderator  @chet  should sticky this info where everyone can find it

[PoginyHill]

If you're talking about the file that does both the teeth and depth gauges at the same time, I have 3 of the buggers. I've had mixed results. A couple seem to work ok, but one (3/16 file, .325 pitch) I've not had good luck with. Does seem to file the depth gauge will causing the tooth file to ride too high, not making a good "hook" and a dull tooth. I've replaced both the flat file and round files, but no improvement. I've gone back to a simple file for both tooth and depth gauge. Takes a bit longer, but I like the results better. I don't recall it cutting to one side much, just not cutting well overall.

[DHansen]

In your file holder, is it possible for the round file to be reversed?  As in put in backwards and not cutting on the push stroke of the file?   I do not own the Stihl 2 in 1.  I do have the Husqvarna style and you have to switch file direction on both files in the tool when switching from left to right cutters.   I wish I had one of the Stihl tools to look at.

[Tacotodd]

I slightly disagree with the information. I freehand and file both from my strong side, but I make sure to keep the file level to top plates and disregard the overall 90* to the bar. But I'm so right-handed that I'd be in a world of hurt if something happened to my right side. (NOT an invitation)

I don't have any curving to my cut either!  8)

[moodnacreek]

Learn to file by eye, never perfect but the more you correct yourself the better you get. Always have a like new file and file before you have to.

[High_Water]

I'm right handed, so right side dominant, but I'm not sharpening both tooth angles from the same side - I have to turn the saw around so I can push both angles away from me at the angle pushing away from the motor end of the saw (if that makes any sense). I've never heard of files being directional, I suppose if they are then its possible one is in backwards but I've just never heard of such a thing. I have heard before to give a light once over every tank of gas but I usually forget until I'm 2 or 3 in or its noticeable. In my head the pull to one side means that one set of tooth angles is getting sharper than the other and I can't figure out why - of course that may not be the issue either that's just my thoughts. At first I thought I had a bar problem but a new chain cuts straight so that leaves my sharpening skills (or lack thereof) to be the culprit. My goal is to get a vice setup that fits on my tailgate so I can have 2 hands on the file instead of one on the saw, that way I should be able to exert a little more pressure and see if that helps. I'll try to get some pictures as well.

[PoginyHill]

I've never heard of files being directional

Files are definitely directional. A sharpening stone is not, but all files are.

[High_Water]

Files are definitely directional. A sharpening stone is not, but all files are.

That's good to know, I assume the tapered end is the base and they're meant to be pushed away. I'll check that out first.

[PoginyHill]

The handle end of the file (pointed end on a round file) is meant to be driven into a handle, often a wooden handle, if being used free-hand. Filing the correct way will provide some resistance and you'll see filings drop from whatever you are filing. The wrong way will provide little/no resistance and no filings.

[DHansen]

You can run you finger over the file and feel which way it bites (cuts)  Just like a hack saw blade.  And you should be cutting on the push or forward stroke.  When you said it pushes easy on one of the cuts it made be think the file might just be backwards for that side.   

[zinc oxide]

I'm having an issue with the bar/chain pulling to the left as I go through a cut.

I don't know if it will help, but I believe that the curve will follow the sharp side, faster/easier/better cutting leads the way? Don't know how to tell you to make sense of that... Strong side/weak side.

Definitely want to eliminate movement of the bar/saw body as much as possible.  Make every effort NOT to drag the file backwards in the cut, I believe it contributes to dulling the file. You get what you pay for for the most part is basically true in my experience. From what I remember, you generally have to 'hold back' if that is the right way to word it with a new, quality file for some time. 'File card' I think is the name of the tool, for cleaning files. Very short wire brush in essence, I believe it is 'directional' also.

I will say that once I learned to keep the chain out of the dirt (accidental or not), and too wire brush/chop off Dirty bark, I was amazed How long A chain would stay sharp. I would be uncomfortable quoting any volumes as far as amount of wood per sharp chain, many natural variables, but it got to the point where four chains/yr. professionally sharpened would fill my woodshed,  (holds about seven cord), in addition to storm damage/general cleanup, actually probably more than the woodshed, we have some pretty big bonfires. Of course, sometimes you have to use the dogs when felling, but it got to the point where if I had to use them just cutting logs, I would just switch to a new chain. It was only costing me four dollars per chain to have them sharpened.

Not to go on and on, but a logrite™ cant hook will allow you to nearly effortlessly roll the log after you cut through it the majority of the way, and finish the cut well away from the dirt. Of course it depends on the type of wood/condition which determines how far you can cut through, roll the log, and not have it break/split at the cut line.  Lots of 'tricks and tips' concerning binding in the cuts etc.  I'm sure you are/will learn, the main point being don't over extend your reach and keep your body out of the swing of the bar.

I had read several places to just let the weight of the saw do the cutting, and not to 'rock' back-and-forth, consistent 'attack angle' of the teeth promoting longer-term sharpness... Which I have found to be true.  'Rakers' I have come to find out are a huge part of the equation...

Good luck.

[firefighter ontheside]

10 passes on each tooth seems a bit excessive.  Unless the tooth is noticeably extra dull, I take 3 passes on each tooth with firm pressure.  You have to be pressing down at the same time with the 2 in 1 thing too to make sure you are filing the raker.  Counting your passes is important to make sure you are filing evenly.  Also, make sure that you know your starting point so that you don't miss any teeth.

[DHansen]

Went and open one of these 2 in 1 Stihl sharpeners.  The two round spiral cut files can only be put into the tool in one direction.  so they can not be messed up without breaking the handle as it is closed after insertion of the two round files.  They are opposite directions when installed correctly.  However, there are arrow on the tool and the tool needs to be flipped and reversed for left or right cutters.  So when sharpening the cutters you do need to use the correct side so the arrow points forward and with the cut.  The guy behind the counter said he has had this talk before and it comes down to making sure left and right cutters are sharpened equally and they should be kept at the same length.   As a side note, the winter grade bar oil was $12.50 a gallon.

[High_Water]

So here is my attempt at some before and after photos of my 24" bar and 16" bar. I noticed one of the files (I think it was for the 24" bar) the file tip was broken off so it was sliding an inch or so in the sleeve, so I fixed that with a shim. Otherwise the files were all facing the right direction. I did notice, and its hard to see in the photo, but the top view of the small chain it appears all the teeth facing one direction are just slightly smaller than the teeth facing the other direction, I'm guessing this is the basis for my pull issue and probably has more to do with me being sloppy than anything else. As far as I can tell the main thing I'm doing wrong, besides being in a hurry, is not using a vise.

On an related note, the last picture shows a chipped tooth, how big of a problem is something like that, is that gonna cause a problem until it gets fully sharpened out or what?


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[barbender]

If your teeth are different length side to side, yes it will cut curves. Measure them. I find  on one side, I have to make an extra stroke every sharpening otherwise I get them out of whack.

[PoginyHill]

A single chipped cutter should not make much of a difference. Have you measured the cutting depth for each of the cutter/depth gauges (rakers)? That was the problem I had with my 2-1 sharpener - it wasn't filing the depth gauge very well. You should have about 0.030" of cutting depth. If one side is consistently different than the other, it'll cause a curved cut.

[axeman2021]

So here is my attempt at some before and after photos of my 24" bar and 16" bar. I noticed one of the files (I think it was for the 24" bar) the file tip was broken off so it was sliding an inch or so in the sleeve, so I fixed that with a shim. Otherwise the files were all facing the right direction. I did notice, and its hard to see in the photo, but the top view of the small chain it appears all the teeth facing one direction are just slightly smaller than the teeth facing the other direction, I'm guessing this is the basis for my pull issue and probably has more to do with me being sloppy than anything else. As far as I can tell the main thing I'm doing wrong, besides being in a hurry, is not using a vise.

On an related note, the last picture shows a chipped tooth, how big of a problem is something like that, is that gonna cause a problem until it gets fully sharpened out or what?


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for posting the pictures they gave me a a lot of information, as to how the 2&1 files the cutters and rakers.
I just picked up two a 3/8 and .325 and started using them, if the rakers don't need more filing after the first filing use i remove the flat files and just use the round files.
I have found out that putting the saw and bar in my vice holds things tight, and make is easer for me to file the cutters.
I am just cleaning up a usable chain first, getting used to holding the 2&1 and getting a feel for using them.

[teakwood]

Always use a vise if possible. 

The 2in1 is almost idiot proved, i use them since two years. they are faster and easier to use as most people never learn to proper free hand file, too complicated.
i do 2-3 strokes per tooth, on my weak side one stroke more.
learn your weak side and adjust. change you round files and start filling again, be sure the angles are correct and you will have a real good cutting chain.

On your first pics i can see that one side is filled more than the other, that will make a curve cut. correct that 

[Guydreads]

I enjoy free hand filing actually, but my problem is always the rakers. Cause I don't have a raker gauge. Need to get one of those. If I get the rakers right, no curving, saw cuts really well. If I don't, the saw just curves left. 

[breederman]

guydreads, just spring for a2 in 1 and don't look back 

[John Mc]

The handle end of the file (pointed end on a round file) is meant to be driven into a handle, often a wooden handle, if being used free-hand. Filing the correct way will provide some resistance and you'll see filings drop from whatever you are filing. The wrong way will provide little/no resistance and no filings.

Not to mention it's a great way to ruin a file.