iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Stihl 026 Help

Started by SnoJetter, September 11, 2021, 10:35:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

SnoJetter

I have what I believe is an early 026; my Dad bought it new in the early or mid 90's.  It was the only saw we had for many years and brought in a lot of firewood for us.  After it started becoming harder to start and a little finicky to run, Dad bought a new 260 and I took the 026 to my shop to work on "someday."  Well, I've run it off and on for a few years now (maybe a tank or two of fuel per year) and I don't think it's really too bad of a starter (might be Dad just needed a compression release as he aged), but it doesn't run perfectly.

Primarily, it doesn't want to hold the idle.  I can adjust the carb to get a satisfactory idle, but it won't hold over the course of a cutting session.  It still has plenty of power pulling an 18" bar in midsize hardwood and runs strong through the cut.  But I often have to blip the throttle to keep it running when walking up to the next log.  If I set it down, it's more often it will quit than stay running.  I can't recall compression as it's been a while since I took a reading.  Pretty sure it was at or near 150psi.  I tore into it a few months ago to clean up the chassis as well as clean the carb and install a new carb kit (OEM) while I was in there.  I did inspect the exterior portion of the fuel line, and the fuel filter is clean.  I think I sprayed carb cleaner at the seals while running...but I honestly can't say for sure (I normally do that when diagnosing a saw issue).  I should probably run that test again just to be sure.  And...pretty sure it got a new spark plug, too (is memory going...)

Anyway, I recently got inspired by a video @weimedog did a few years ago where he tore into an 026 and found the impulse line was cracked.  Since I hadn't torn the saw down that far previously, I decided I should check all the rubber parts.  So the saw is currently in pieces on the workbench.  I took out the impulse line, the fuel line, and the intake boot.  I can't find any cracks or obvious issues with those parts, BUT while it's all apart it seems wise to just replace these 25+ year old parts.

My first question is if there is an IPL for this saw so I can get some p/n's for these parts?  I looked for a serial number on the saw but couldn't find anything.  There is a recess on the chassis that could have been for a serial number sticker, but it's long gone.  Were these tags riveted or just a sticker?  If I don't have a serial number to date the saw, how confident can I be that these parts I need didn't change design over time so that I don't need something very specific to the year or "generation" of this saw?

Secondly, anything else I should check to cure the idle issue?  If I an get that annoying little hiccup fixed, this will be a nice unit to fit in to my regular rotation of saws.  A little orange can't hurt in sea of red, right?

sablatnic

The serial number is on the horizontal surface to the right of the muffler.
The idle problems can be caused by a leaking needle valve in the carburettor. 

Al_Smith

Just as a tip every carb manufacturer has a web site and they all name trouble shooting tips .To actually trouble shoot a saw over the internet is shooting in the dark because there are 10,000 opinions of what it could be .Saying that the 026 normally is a good little dependable saw .I own it's little cousin an 024 which also does good on smaller wood which it was designed for .It will cut anything it just takes longer .

HolmenTree

The 026 was at one time Stihl's best selling saw in Canada.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

SnoJetter

I never would have found the serial number as it was covered by quite a bit of carbon and "grease" from the muffler.  The serial number is 220936937.  Does that mean anything to anybody?

The needle valve was changed when I installed the new carb kit...though I suppose the needle seat could be faulty.

Tacotodd

You'll have to give the model & serial # to a real Stihl dealer to know all the answers to your questions. I realize that it's not something that you can figure out at home, but if you have some sort of positive relationship with them, THEN you can call them and they would have to get in contact with one of their people. Yes it's a PITA for you, but Stihl does stuff like like this to force you into having a relationship with a local dealer.

Good luck and have patience with them, they are there trying to make a living and sometimes it's just the way of life :'(
Trying harder everyday.

HemlockKing

Quote from: HolmenTree on September 12, 2021, 10:52:01 AM
The 026 was at one time Stihl's best selling saw in Canada.
I got the metal tag one and love it. Great power for 50cc . It's the only saw I have with heated grip too so that's not so bad in the winter 
A1

SnoJetter

I've got no problem working with a local dealer.  Just figured I could find some p/n's and give those to the dealer when ordering parts.  Rather than call up a dealer (for any product) and have them look up parts for me, I prefer to say "I need p/n 123XYZ."  I'm perfectly capable of reading an IPL...or in some cases more capable.

I'm on the horn more often with the local Husky dealer to get Jonsered parts, but the Stihl dealer has been plenty competent when I've been in touch with them for a random need.  They are also the local Kawasaki dealer, so I darken their door from time to time.

SnoJetter


fossil

Tim

SnoJetter

Thanks, Tim!  That is very helpful!

fossil

Quote from: SnoJetter on September 19, 2021, 09:21:29 PM
Thanks, Tim!  That is very helpful!
I sent you a service manual via PM in case you don't have one.
Tim

SnoJetter

Thanks again, Tim.  That will come in handy.

I do have a question regarding the tank vent on this saw.  There is a self-tapping screw on the top portion of the vent and there is a threaded insert inside accessed from the "bottom."  The manual Tim provided just mentioned removing that hardware and cleaning it if there's an issue with venting the tank.  But there isn't any mention of other maintenance.  The threaded insert looks almost like a carb adjusting screw.  My assumption is these two pieces are just threaded all the way in and snugged up.  I'm wondering if there is any "adjustment" involved that might be required for proper operation.

fossil

I don't think the screw in the top is supposed to be screwed down hard. I believe the air is allowed into the tank by travelling around the screw threads.

Does it leak gas when tipped? Yep.

Typical Stihl over engineered vent.

Husky had some odd ones too. 
I made a vent for the missing one on my 036 with a plug, piece of fuel line and an Echo check valve.

The 026 is a great saw despite that.


Tim

Al_Smith

In chainsawdom the Clydesdales are the plus 100 cc models .The 100's are the the thoroughbreds .The 80's are the quarter horses .The 3 cubers are the Jack Russel  terriers .For little dudes they have some bite . With a little bit of enhancement these little rascals can really get with it .Of course the little ones,2 cubers are the bumble bees but they can be a lot of fun too . :)

Tacotodd

On that vent screw, don't screw it in, "push" it in without screwing it. That's the way you should attach/apply it so that there's going to be room for the necessary air to go around and vent properly. That application was covered some time back here in the chainsaw threads (but it's buried somewhere in n the way back 😬)
Trying harder everyday.

Thank You Sponsors!