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stihl 500 i

Started by slider, September 15, 2021, 07:23:31 PM

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slider

Just bought my first 500i stihl . 10 lbs lighter than my 880 and will still pull a 36 in bar. 
al glenn

HemlockKing

I have had mine for 2
Months now probably 60-80 hours on it. I really like it, the only thing I notice is it doesn't like small
Wood and 4 strokes, goes away as soon as you bite it into enough wood. Throttle response is great, it's pretty light for what it is. Does have too much plastic imo though, anyway, that's my conclusion on it so far. I would recommend one. 
A1

YellowHammer

Yep me too.  Happy. Happy happy with mine.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Ventryjr

Are you guys using them for felling or bucking? 
-2x belsaw m14s and a Lane circle mill.

HemlockKing

Felling, bucking and chainsaw milling 
A1

YellowHammer

Some felling, but mainly bucking log after log for the sawmill, cutting them to length.  Just straight chainsaw dropping through logs, dozens an hour sometimes, what my other Stihl, a 462I, the precursor to this, didn't do so well at and I traded off for the new 500i.  This one starts fairly quickly with a prime button, and has a fairly easy pull.    

I usually use a 660 for this, my general go to saw, but the 500i cuts within a hairs breath as fast, and is significantly lighter.  I use the light bar, and RS chain, and am very happy.    
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

zippski

I really love the performance of my new 500i (bought in May from my local Stihl dealer) but, man, it is a PITA to start sometimes.  I have tried every starting technique known to mankind.  Hot starting was always an issue, but now cold starts are also becoming difficult.  It will run a second or two, and then "run out of fuel" and die.  Sometimes it will require 20 or so false starts (40-50 pulls) before the fuel delivery eventually kicks in and it stays running.

I have taken it back to the dealer for service and their answer was "the computer says everything is ok with the saw".  ??? ???

A quick internet search for "Stihl 500i won't start" shows I am not the only one with this exact issue.  Maybe I should try premium gas, but my MS362 is a 2-pull starter, every time, hot or cold, using the same jug of gas mix.

Leigh
zippski
Leigh
zippski

Tacotodd

@zippski this might not have any bearing on your particular problem BUT on my brand new saw of another brand/model the fuel filter was clogged after 3 tanks. I replaced it & ALL was good at that point. Inexpensive and worth a shot.
Trying harder everyday.

YellowHammer

That's odd, mine is a very easy starter. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

doc henderson

my 660 was like that and my dealer took it back in trade for an 880.  evidence to me I was not the only one.  he had to go through the distributor.  I am sad to hear the 500 I may be the same.  Stihl needs to make the great saws they are known for.  sad the politics get in the way.  they twice evaluated the 660 saying it was fine, but not to me when it would not start hot despite the procedure.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

ehp

its your fuel and the 500i is to run on high test gas not low or mid grade . Sense your in Ontario use Petro can 94 octane gas. 

HemlockKing

I usually run 91 octane which is premium here, but only had 89 today and didn't wanna run into town for saw gas, so I mixed it up and ran it in the 500i, didn't notice a difference but will keep running the higher octane 
A1

zippski

Quote from: Tacotodd on September 17, 2021, 04:11:31 PM
@zippski this might not have any bearing on your particular problem BUT on my brand new saw of another brand/model the fuel filter was clogged after 3 tanks. I replaced it & ALL was good at that point. Inexpensive and worth a shot.
Thanks for this tip - I will check this out since it sure seems like a fuel starvation issue, but I am not sure why it never seems to starve for fuel after it is running
Leigh
zippski
Leigh
zippski

zippski

Quote from: ehp on September 17, 2021, 06:52:39 PM
its your fuel and the 500i is to run on high test gas not low or mid grade . Sense your in Ontario use Petro can 94 octane gas.
Yep, an hour east of you, ehp, in central Niagara (specifically, in escarpment shorthills country).  I will try a couple of tanks of premium to see if that helps.  I hope so, even though my MS461 and MS362 seem to have no issues starting and running on regular.
Leigh
zippski
Leigh
zippski

YellowHammer

Quote from: zippski on September 17, 2021, 07:43:36 AM
Sometimes it will require 20 or so false starts (40-50 pulls) before the fuel delivery eventually kicks in and it stays running.

I have taken it back to the dealer for service and their answer was "the computer says everything is ok with the saw".  ??? ???
I had a similar thread on my 462CM a few months ago, with a chainsaw that drove me crazy, and one day I was so aggravated I literally almost put it on the ground and drove over it with my tractor.  I didn't, but it was close....

I called it "Old Ten Pull" even though it was brand new.  I played with the wires, I put on a new fuel filter even though the old one looked fine, new plug, etc, recalibrated it many times, and all of a sudden, it began to start on the first couple pulls, like it was supposed to.  I don't know what was clogged, loose, or what was different, but it just "started working."  However, while it was still working, I sold it as fast as I could.

I replaced it with a new 500i, and I call it "The Leaf Blower" because it starts about the same as my leaf blower.  A half a dozen pushes of the primer button, a couple pulls, and it runs.  Just like my leaf blower.   :D  I'm using regular pump gas and oil in it, as well as all my saws and leaf blowers.

I did try some of the canned gas and oil mix from my local shop, and yes, it makes a significant difference.  No doubt.
So my advice would be to get a gallon can of that premixed chainsaw fuel from your local saw or hardware store and drain out the old fuel out and try it.  If it doesn't completely change character on that, there is something really wrong with the saw, no matter what the dealer says.

Then when you are at the dealer, get some of the basics and replace them.  Fuel filter, plug, maybe the fuel line, and go inside the saw and start pulling and jerking on every wire and connection in there.  In my 462, I found a loose wire and an oddly placed linkage.  If that doesn't work, sell it and get another.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

HemlockKing

One thing  noticed is I gotta tuck my shirts in or the vacuum the flywheel pulls it will suck my shirt right to the recoil case and stay there lol 
A1

realzed

I don't know where - but I thought I read that the starting procedure for the 500i mentioned by Stihl was 9 or 10 pushes of the primer button as being the required number for cold starting..
I also watched in a Youtube video as a Stihl factory rep demonstrated how to do a M-Tronic reset from a cold start and he very obviously hit the primer button at least that number of times, cranking it up in a couple of pulls, prior to resetting it!  

realzed

Actually and since I am not fortunate enough to own a 500i - I decided to go on-line and look up the stated procedure for the 500i as described in a Stihl manual.
It plainly states "push the primer button 8 'or more as needed' times prior to pulling the starter rope"..
I'm wondering if those who have issues or problems easily starting or keeping their saws running after firing initially, could have it due to a lack of sufficient primed volume of fuel for the FI unit to firstly get it going - and then to allow it stay going to the point where it can be throttled up..
Stihl has always from my own experiences, been very exacting when it comes to starting procedures for their saws, and due to this model being a completely different animal fuel delivery-wise from the rest of the saws in their line-up, it just might make some difference..

Skeans1

I've had one since the first of the year ran it daily 6 hours falling and bucking without issues on 87 ethanol I wonder if it's more of the quality of the gas or you climate. Even after having the saw sit for 2.5 months without use on the same gas as before it fired in around 5 pulls.

air1514

I hope all you guys that are selling these problem saws, are doing so as parts only or at a discount.   The guy buying a used saw probably can't afford to buy new, and now he just wasted his Money on a junk saw that never runs right.   It sucks, but gotta take one for the team , don't pass the buck to another.   

Tom King

I don't understand how higher octane would make one easier to start.  Octane is really just resistance to spontaneous combustion under pressure.  If an engine has higher compression, it needs higher octane to prevent knocking from the fuel firing before the plug fires.

I know a lot of people think that more octane gives the gas more power, but it really doesn't.  More octane just adds more resistance to pressure before it can ignite.  The most power comes from the proper octane fuel being used for a particular engine.

I see guys with regular motorcycles filling up at the Racing gas pump.  I expect they think it gives their bike more power, but I expect it just turns their chrome pipes blue.

Please, explain.

YellowHammer

One thing I've noticed, and it has been mentioned before by others, is that the Silver synthetic Stihl oil definitely makes a saw harder to start than the Stihl orange oil, although they sell the synthetic as a better oil.  I guess from a wear characteristic, it's better, but it smokes more and make the saw harder to start.  So you might try the orange Stihl oil in the long run.

I'd get a can of the super duper premix from the local chainsaw shop, and give that a try.  If is doesn't fire up well on that, then there is definitely an issue with the saw.  I keep a can in the cabinet now, and is the first thing I use for troubleshooting my wad of 2 stroke engines (trim saws, brush cutters, weedeaters, limbs saws, etc.)  

      
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Woodfarmer

I found in the winter, prime 8-10 pumps. Pull to test and then started on 2nd or 3rd. Even after running for a while.
In the hot summer however after the saw was hot, it usually needs 4-6 pumps. I think the theory is to introduce cooler fuel.

barbender

I run the high octane for two reasons- first, around here the 91 octane premium is ethanol free. Second, iirc my Husqvarna manuals called for a premium or minimum 89 octane gasoline. I realize it doesn't make more power, but it does help keep a hot running engine from burning down.
Too many irons in the fire

realzed

Yup - I too can only get what is 'reported to be' ethanol-free gas in the highest octane version - which around here is 91 at the pump unless I mix in some 100 LL (which I do occasionally) at 50/50 ratio along with the 91.
But I think everyone seems to agree that their saws all sound and seem to run much better when using either Stihl, Husky, or other forms of canned premixed fuel.
So that tells me that despite what some say is unnecessary and costly  premixed fuels - they do make a difference and that difference is undoubtedly the octane levels mostly and to a small degree the additives.
Stihl MotoMix I think is rated at 93 octane and the Husky stuff is 95 if I recall correctly!  
I do know personally, when I have used either in my 261CM does certainly sound a lot like a racing 2 stroke bike and feels different immediately and I have to assume it also would produce more power if it could be measured from the feel of it..
Preignition is bad for any engine - 2 stroke or otherwise - and the hallmark of lower octane fuels is the resultant build-up of heat created by it!

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