Forum > Woodland Mills

New HM130M

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djw:
Hi I ordered a new mill with one extension last week, I had a couple questions I was looking for feedback on before I spent some more time and money on project, any help would be appreciated.


1) Attachments, I could add the siding rig to my order it looks handy wondering if anybody has or if people just tilt log for siding

2)I never ordered the trailer, my plan was to make my own, I figure I could make it more heavy duty as I don’t have heavy equipment and will be making a winch to roll logs up, I will likely be using 6” channel iron, steel is very expensive right now so wondering if anybody has made a trailer with 4” channel. Would basically be two 20” runners, with bracing and axle underneath, two ramps and hopefully a power winch.  

Cheers



Gere Flewelling:
I would be cautious using channel steel for long trailer frame members.  On most trailers having the frame flex and twist is acceptable as long as it doesn't bend.  Setting under a sawmill frame, I suspect you would not want any flexing to take place.  My experience with long length of trailer frame is that it will have considerable flex unless it is crossed braced heavily every few feet.  Though it might be more expensive, I think you might have better luck with rectangular tubing that is carefully welded and braced to avoid movement during the welding process.  My mill has a 3"x6"x3/16" frame that is 26' long and has no noticeable flex while trailering.  The rectangular tubing just seems have a better capability to not flex compared to channel.
I have welded channel together making it a box, but that is a lot of work and the end result is a beam that is too heavy and hard to handle.  Good luck with your decision.  GF

Redmt:
Channel iron would be my last choice. It is not designed for linear flex use. You would need cross members like others have said as well as gussets. I usually overkill my builds mainly because I'll use what I have on hand. In this case I have 3 14' 6" H beams with 1/4" web. I cut one of them in half and welded together for 21' total length. I used three  4",  1/4" wall box tube for cross members. It's heavy, solid, and does not flex. I opted to use 2" box tube welded to the H-beam with the OEM rails bolted to them instead of the all thread feet that came with the mill.

Nealm66:
I have the bevel attachment and it works pretty slick. Only drawback is it shortened my max length to about 16’ 4”

rusticretreater:
I have the lap siding upgrade as well and its pretty nifty.  You just pull up/lower a lever and keep cutting.  It takes 2-3 seconds more for each cut over making straight boards.  You can't beat that with any of the other methods to making lap siding.

You can't skimp on the trailer construction.  You need box tubing or I-Beam type construction.  Flex going down the road is one thing, but getting things level on-site is another.  Trailer flexing will also seriously misalign things on your saw.  Just look at the sawmill trailers on-line and you will get the idea.

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