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Types of chains?

Started by boisblancboy, December 29, 2009, 12:30:32 PM

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boisblancboy

Could someone explain to me the different types of chains?  Low kickback, chisel, chipper?
I would really like to know the difference between them.

Also would do you recommend for a chain on my MS390 with a 20" bar?

Cut4fun

Just posted it in the other thread you have going.

ErikC

 Full chisel, full or semi skip, keep it sharp and there's no stopping you. I use it on the 290 as well, it speeds things up a lot.
Peterson 8" with 33' tracks, JCB 1550 4x4 loader backhoe, several stihl chainsaws

boisblancboy

Thanks!  I just looked at the Stihl site and was looking all the different types of chains they make.  I couldnt believe how many different little variations there are nor do I have any idea what the advantage of each would be. 

Rocky_J

In Stihl chain I would suggest the RMC. I assume you're running 3/8" chain so depending on the gauge of your bar you would need either 33RMC or 36RMC. If you look on the bar it should tell you the gauge (width of the bar groove) as well as the link count (should be about 72 I think).

So if you're running .050 gauge then the chain part number would look something like 33RMC-72 and if you're running .063 gauge then it would be something like 36RMC-72.

Maybe one of these other guys that runs a 20" bar might be able to tell me if I guessed the link count correctly. :)

Kevin


timberjack240

i along w my family run full chisel .. except if the logs are muddy then i put a round chisel on. i kno a guy that uses skip tooth .. neer tried it but looked liek it may work pretty goood .. actually thot about askin you guys if you knew anyhting about full chisel skip tooth

timber tramp

 
Quote from: timberjack240 on December 30, 2009, 11:37:43 PM
i along w my family run full chisel .. except if the logs are muddy then i put a round chisel on. i kno a guy that uses skip tooth .. neer tried it but looked liek it may work pretty goood .. actually thot about askin you guys if you knew anyhting about full chisel skip tooth
I run either full chisel skip or square chisel skip chains on my 044 almost exclusively. Works good for me. Madsens has good info on saw chain IMO. http://www.madsens1.com/bnc%20sequence.htm
          Hope this helps.        :) TT
Cause every good story needs a villan!

Kevin

Full skip would normally be used on longer bars where the bar is buried in the wood.

boisblancboy

Hey guys I got another question.  I have a 3/8 chain and the dealer gave me 7/32 files, how do I know if those are the right files or not?  What do I need to look for on the chain to determine the right file size?  I just want to be sure that I have the correct files before I sharpen it the first time.  I called the dealer and they said I had the correct files but when I line the file up with my brand new chain, it just seems a little large.  Thanks guys

Rocky_J

That's the right size. New chain is ground on a machine so the cutting edge isn't perfectly rounded like a round file.

3/8" chain - 7/32" file
.325" chain - 3/16" file
3/8" lo pro - 5/32" file

John Mc

I don't use Stihl chains, but doesn't their 3/8 pitch chains call for some odd-ball size file (13/64 or 15/64)? Most of those I know running Stihl chain just use a 7/32 file on it, with good results.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Rocky_J

You're right, John. There is no perceptible difference in performance, it's just another Stihl tactic of trying to make their stuff incompatible with all the other brands so Stihl owners are more likely to stick with Stihl branded accessories. If they specify a slightly different file size and they are the only ones making that size file, it locks in sales.

I've used Stihl chain for years and have always used a 7/32" file regardless of their oddball specifications. And my chains are faster than most. ;)

Al_Smith

Quote from: Rocky_J on December 31, 2009, 11:41:20 AM
There is no perceptible difference in performance, it's just another Stihl tactic of trying to make their stuff incompatible with all the other brands so Stihl owners are more likely to stick with Stihl branded accessories. If they specify a slightly different file size and they are the only ones making that size file, it locks in sales.


Actually that specialty stuff is just common place with nearly everything originating from that country .They all attempt to do it ,they think it's cool or something . It's usually high quality stuff no matter what it is but repair parts are controlled by the parent company .As such they controll the price and weather to make something obsolete  by lack of parts .

They aren't all that bright though when  dealing with large industrial stuff .They fail like so many to figure in "Yankee ingenuity " . 8)

boisblancboy

Thanks for all the replies, glad to know I got the right files.  I also picked up the file guide that rests on the tooth and raker.  Are those guides universal for all size files or not?

One other question.  I am assuming that the chain that came with my saw is some sort of saftey chain cause it has green paint on one of the links.  Does this hurt the perfomance of cutting fast because of this?  Can I just file the rakers just a hair more than normal?

385XP

A 7/32 file works fine to sharpen a 3/8 chain but after the chain is half worn out a 13/64 file works better. It alows you  to get the hook back in the chain witch makes the chain cut better. oregon makes 13/64 too so its not just a stihl thing.

boisblancboy

Is there anyone that can answer my quesiton on the file guide I asked?  Just want to make sure its correct before I start using it.  I have never used a guide before, just free handed the file, which always seemed to work ok.  Though when I would slap a new chain on it did cut better that my old ones of course, but still not a HUGE difference, but just trying to do things better than I have in the past.  Thanks

Rocky_J

I can't tell you about the guide because I don't know which guide you have and I've never used one anyway. All I can say is try it on a couple teeth and see if it gives you the correct angles on the teeth. Here's a basic guide to tell you what you should be looking for.  :)


beenthere

Just watch the tooth shape as you file, and you should be able to get the chain to cut better after sharpening, than when it was new. That is a goal for ya.  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

boisblancboy

Thanks guys.  I appreciate the replies!

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