Green and Yellow link Chains

[Magicman]

The Green Link chain is on my 18" bar 028AV.  The Yellow Link chain is on my 20" bar 310.  Both chains are 7/32.  I have been using that chain on the 028AV, but I have never used the Yellow Link chain yet.

It's obvious that the rakers are completely different on the two chains.  Each was sold to me by different Stihl dealers.  My question is what differences can I expect?  Both saws are mainly used to cut Oak firewood.

[Ironwood]

Others will chime, looks like green is homeowner (and dirty condition) safety chain. That stays sharper longer in dirty conditions. The yellow looks like full chisel, cuts faster but dulls quicker. I like full chisel and just keep it sharp. For people who cant/dont sharpen their own chain the green may make more sense.

Ironwood

[breederman]

The green is the "anti kickback chain" it is supposed to be safer in the hands of inexperienced users. I don't like it myself, it seems to cut slower, but that is probably just me. ;)

[lumberjack48]

No breederman its not just you, that full safety chain has one speed[ slow] they work good for stump cutting. All those rakers pull the dirt out, it fascinates me how long it can keep on cutting at its slow pace.

Magicman you'll think you have gone to heaven when you start cutting with the yellow link. 8)

[shelbycharger400]

ANSI B175.1 Chain Saw Kickback Standard
STIHL's green and yellow color code system serves to
identify STIHL bars and chains with different kickback
reduction characteristics. Green (go) marks those products
which are designed to reduce the risk of kickback injury
and comply with the ANSI B175.1 kickback standard.
STIHL's low-kickback chain features a green triple-hump tie
strap that identifies each loop as "low-kickback" chain
that meets the ANSI standard. Recommended for both
the experienced and inexperienced chain saw user.
Yellow (caution) marks products with increased risk of
kickback injury. They are for use only by persons with
extraordinary cutting needs and experience and specialized
training in dealing with kickback conditions.
*WARNING: Recommended STIHL green-labeled
reduced-kickback bars are not available in the lengths
marked with an * in the chart. For such guide bars,
STIHL yellow-labeled bars are listed. Please read and
follow the yellow warning information that is included
on the guide bar package.
**WARNING: Recommended STIHL green-labeled lowkickback
chains are not available in .404" pitch. For .404"
chain, STIHL yellow-labeled chains are listed which have
reduced-kickback characteristics as compared to other STIHL
yellow-labeled chains. Read and follow the yellow warning
information included with these chains. STIHL recommends
the use of 3/8" sprockets in combination with STIHL
green-labeled low-kickback saw chain and STIHL greenlabeled
reduced-kickback guide bars whenever possible.

[Magicman]

After this tropical storm "Lee" moves through, I should be able to get back into the woods later this week.  It will be interesting to try them side by side.

Thanks for the good information guys.   

[Ax- man]

The yellow ,green link has been answered. Personally , I hate that green link safety chain because it cutsslo and is a bugger to file when it comes time to file the depth gauge lower because of that extra anti kick back humped raker.

Full chisel or the yellow link chain (RapidSuper) is a very aggessive fast and smooth cutting chain cutting. It does dull down quicker especially in hardwood. A happy medium between the safety chain and the non safety chain is the RapidMicro or semi-chisel with the only one depth gauge. If poperly sharpened will cut just about as fast as the full chiesel chain and stays sharper longer.

[Ianab]

The extra bumpers on the green chain also make it more difficult to bore cut (using the tip of the bar). The extra bumpers stick up as the chain goes around the end of the bar, and stop the cutter getting a good "bite". This reduces the chance of a kickback a bit, but makes for painful cutting when you NEED to bore cut something.

Ian

[ladylake]

When I get stuck with a safety chain a bench grinder takes those safety rakers off fast.   steve

[Cut4fun]

green looks like RM2 semi chisel safety chain and the yellow looks like RSC full chisel round .

[Ironwood]

years ago, when I was green I thought "just grind off the rakers", well lets just say it was a tad bit "GRABBY" like break the chain or the saw grabby. Bad move.

Ironwood

[ladylake]

years ago, when I was green I thought "just grind off the rakers", well lets just say it was a tad bit "GRABBY" like break the chain or the saw grabby. Bad move.

Ironwood

  Not talking about grinding  off the rakers, just the safety humps.   steve

[Collima]

I make my own chain. Usually have a roll of 3/8 and .404.  If I get a saw with safety chain on I just throw it away and make a chisel chain for it.
Tried ripping chain for a while too. Liked it, but I didn't like sharpening it. Which actually leads me to a question. Do they harden some of the cutters on ripping chain? I bought it from granberg.

[bendjoseph]

I am going to pick up one of the yellow chains this weekend.  I have had my MS391 for 5 months now and I feel, I am ready to step up to one.

[Magicman]

I used that Yellow Link chain Saturday.  That is the same chain design that was on the old Homelite XL12's. 

It was a bit more "kicky" but there was no comparison on the cutting speed and ability.  Since the Green Link came on the Stihl 310 and 028AV, I had never given it a thought.

It will be Yellow on both now.

[T Welsh]

We usually spin our chain up from the reel, but every so often we will buy a loop from dealer when I am at there shop, I tell the new guys if it has anything other than a skull and cross bone,s on it and its not colored red I DO NOT WANT IT. we use the saws every day, time is money, if they are slow cutting, I dont want it in the inventory. this is a wear item, our employees are shone by myself what kick back is and then I show them how to position them selves over the saw to lessen the (OH S--T) moment when it happens!!!! and it will!!! the color coded tie straps are a way to identify a pro vs homeowner chain and thats it.  Tim

[bendjoseph]

After 20 hours on the green link, I bought a yellow link chain.  What a difference!   Cuts much faster, but I had two kick backs.