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New Husq 350.... break in? oil mix?

Started by jjmk98k, January 18, 2004, 10:28:32 PM

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jjmk98k

So many topics here of oil mix and break in, i was hoping someone can set me straight on a good break in procedure.

 this is what I have done so far....am I on right track? :P

 Husqvarna 350, new

I soaked the chain in Husq Bar and chain oil.... then re-installed on bar.

greased the nose sprocket with the needle grease gun

filled the oil tank with oil

added the 50:1 to the gas tank ( 93 octane and Husq oil mix), allowed it to idle for about 10 mintues after starting, revved it up a vew times here and there...... idled again for few more minutes then shut off... did this procedure  twice.... no cutting yet...

I understand I'll have to "go easy" on the saw the first hour of operation, to break it in....

I read a great deal tonight here about upping the oil mix to 40:1 or even 35:1   is this a good idea as a standard, all the time practice? Will it void any warranty?   ???

Thanks once again,
Jim



Jim

Warminster PA, not quite hell, but it is a local phone call. SUPPORT THE TROOPS!

Minnesota_boy

My goodness, you're easy on your new saw!  I take mine out and give it ..well I don't give it any quarter.  Most of the trees around here are not huge, so it will be working hard for a minute or two, then idling as I move up to the next cut, then wide open throttle for the next cut.

if you plan to be using the saw for milling, where it will be working it's heart out for several minutes without letup, then do the break-in.  Otherwise, normal working for a saw is the proper break-in.  They need to be run at different speeds to break-in properly, a little idling, a little revving, back to idle, and so on.
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

tony_marks

  good deal jim.. u grandson will cut u firewood with it...
   man buys a good tool he takes care of it.. most disposables wouldnt be so bad if they were not treated as diposable. jmo
  i do go 45-1 but just because its my preference.. no data to back hat up..

ricksvar

I've read differing opinions on breaking in a saw.In general,all of them must yeild acceptable results.

I broke in my 372 using a 32:1 fuel mix(first couple tanks) with premium gas.During this period the largest wood I cut was probably around 10" diameter.Did not lean/pull into the cuts,just let the saw do it's thing.All cuts were made at full throddle,that's the only way I cut WOT.After a couple tanks I put the saw into full load cuts with the total lenght of the bar(20") buried in the cut.This was when I realized why the 372 was so well liked by it's owners.

I'am not saying this is the proper way to break in a saw.I just like to baby my babies during breakin.

Rick

SasquatchMan

Not sure for Huskies, but Stihl manuals say not to run the saw at full throttle OUT of cut for 3 tanks of gas.  That in no way implies that you shouldn't be cutting wood with the thing.  Just not running it real fast out of cut is all.  As mentioned, all cutting should be done at full throttle.  

Manual also says saw won't develop peak power until between 5 and 15 tanks have been run (once all the parts bed in)

As for mix, I run 40:1 just because my can is 4L and I get 100mL bottles of oil.  It specs 50:1 but I haven't had any fouling problems.  I know a guy with a husky 365 (if I remember right) and he runs it at 32:1 with no fouling.
Keep the high octane gas in, and make sure it's always fresh (like 3 months is the max for storing it).

Your saw should be ready for some action.
Senior Member?  That's funny.

qatanlison

A chainsaw should never be broken in by idling - That's not the way you're going to use it? Anyway, I asked some technicians on Husky factory once about how to really break in a new engine and they seem to not understand my question - The only way to break in a new saw was to use it, the way you intend to use it! I wouldn't touch the carb screws though until aa few tanks of gas is put through it though...


/Ola

jjmk98k

I am easy on most new things, When I got my first new truck, I made sure I changed the oil at 250,  500, 1,500 and at 3,000 miles, just to make sure the new engine had fresh oil for the break in. I also changed the rear lube at 10,000 miles..... I think it's normally good to 80,000+ miles....

Some people call me a freak, I just like to take care of things. I don't make enough on a GI's budget to buy tools and not take care of them!!!!!

 so a 40:1 or 35:1 mix would be more benificial to the saw and NOT void warranty?

Thanks, Jim

Jim

Warminster PA, not quite hell, but it is a local phone call. SUPPORT THE TROOPS!

ricksvar

Jim I can't say for sure.I will say that mufflers on new saws are very restrictive and I guess some are more restrictive then others.

In my opinion a restrictive muffler produces more back pressure.Combusted fuel mixture does not exit the cylinder in the volume it would with a opened muffler with less back pressure.With a stock muffler I think 50:1 is a good fuel ratio.If you increase your oil ratio to 40:1 or 32:1 with a stock muffler the result will likely be more carbon deposits on the piston head and exhaust port.

I also think the opposite would be true with a opened muffler with less back pressure.A 40:1 or 32:1 oil ratio will likely produce the same or less carbon deposits then a stock muffler running a 50:1 ratio(carbs properly adjusted).Combusted fuel exits the clyinder in more volume because back pressure has been reduced.This may well be the primary some reason builders recommend a 32:1 fuel ratio in modded saws.

JMO and let me tell ya I don't know hoot about saws.

Rick

Gus

Couple guys said it already but just use the DanG thing for its intended purpose. Chainsaw's were not meant to idle. No air cooled engine is meant to idle. They get cooled by the cooling fins. The motor must have a few rpms to cool.
When I bought a new saw I took it to the woods put gas in it and cut wood. Those little motors like to work under a load. I never blew up a saw and used them for 5-7 years cutting and bucking 5 to 20 cords of pulp a day, depending on the stand of timber and other variables like weather, skidder health and the like.
I can't say it enough, these pro saws are tough. They'll take more than most people will dish out to them in a life-time.
"How do I know what I think unless I have seen what I say?"

Keltic


Gus

Those were the good days Keltic. 8) Good wood.Good weather. Flat terrain and short skids. I had two skidders. One we used for a spare eventually. It was getting pretty tired. It was a `64 Tree Farmer C4. But oh those 5 cord days they hurt. When 2 guys can't get out any more than 5 cords it hurts. :(  Reasons varying from machinery operation to weather to wood, terrain or length of skid or any combination of the above. Ya' had to love it. Never know what you'd face when you got there. Oh there were days we never skidded any wood but we could always fell timber.
"How do I know what I think unless I have seen what I say?"

Blue9R

jjmk - You certainly are giving the new Husky 350 alot of TLC!

As far as chainsaw breakin, I suscribe to the theory that the rings need to fully heat up to wear in. Heat is what generates the thermal expansion of the rings & cylinder and idling a chainsaw will not produce high enough temperatures. Go out & cut, just run the saw easy for the first couple of tanks.

The Husky black bottle mix is a good dino oil. I always run a new saw on the manufacturer's oil at the 50:1 rate until I'm sure that the saw has no immediate warranty issues.

A good quality JASCO-FC, ISO-EGD oil run at 40:1 will provide a better safety margin than 50:1 when you run into gasoline irregularities right out of the pump!

jjmk98k

Hey Blue, thanks for the advice, sounds good to me.

I am one of those "freaks" that will use mainly OEM stuff... oils, chains, bars ect... Like the sticker under the hood of my Monte Carlo SS says, Keep your GM car  all GM....

Same goes for my other toys  8)
Jim

Warminster PA, not quite hell, but it is a local phone call. SUPPORT THE TROOPS!

IndyIan

Hi Jim,

If you concerned about warranty issues running 40:1 mix just ask your dealer.  Mine pretty much recommended it.  Just be sure that when you take your saw in for the post break in tuning that you have the same oil : gas mix that you're going to use.  
This is because changing your oil : gas mixture does change your air : fuel mixture.  Not a whole lot but significantly.

Happy Sawing!
Ian
  


Typhoon

I have 2 Husky 350's and a 346XP. Man are you gonna LOVE the 350! What a great saw. Have never had a problem with either of mine,
Have fun! :)
Brad Dawson, Anna IL (Southern tip)
Husky 346xpNE, Husky 357XP, Norwood Lumbermate2000

Mark M

Hi Jim,

I'm with Ola on not letting it idle. I've seen more than one diesel engine with glazed rings because the owner thought he should let it idle after a rebuild. In one case it only took 30 minutes. When we rebuild engines at work they are running under full load for short periods of time on the dyno after a very short warm up period. You want to vary the speed and not run at any speed for too long. I myself am kinda like MN-boy, I just go out and start cutting firewood with mine and don't worry about it. You wouldn't want to start off milling or something like that where it is under constant load. I also mix at 45:1.

Good luck and have fun!

Mark

Mark

Bobcat_pa

When changing the gas & oil mix from 50:1, to 45:1, or ever to 40:1,  what carb changes would normally be needed ?   bob

SasquatchMan

My saw runs fine at 40:1 with no adjustment.
Senior Member?  That's funny.

Mark M

I don't change my carb settings either.

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