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poplar for purlins?

Started by two saw, March 14, 2007, 03:52:52 PM

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two saw

Got a fellow that wants me to cut 300 plus lineal feet of 1X4 purlins for a shed he is going to build.
Was going to use poplar for this. Would it be ok for this use?
I am not sure of the spacing between trusses but we don't get too heavy snow loads round here.
Would it be better to maybe cut them 1X6?
As always thanks for the help.
two saw.
D&L TS 36 DTH twin saw

thurlow

I've used it a lot for that. (We calls 'em lathes around here, but I've never heard anyone else call 'em that.)  I've always cut 'em 1 x 6.  If it's a traditional metal roof, nails won't hold, but screws will.  I've put rafters up either 16 O C or 24 inch O C, depending on.............CRS  ;D; don't remember why I used one or the other.
Here's to us and those like us; DanG few of us left!

treebucker

Tupli poplar works fine for purlins. Poplar has traditionally been a very popular wood for barn siding and, to some extent, framing. It holds up well to weathering but not to direct ground contact.

Going 1x6 is safer but I don't feel qualified to approve your engineering.
Last night I lay in bed looking up at the stars in the sky and
I thought to myself, "Where the heck is the ceiling?!" - Anon

Radar67

As thurlow said, we call them lathes down here. 1x4 would work as long as the rafter spacing was not over 24 inches. The 1x6 would be a little stronger. To get better strength from them, I would consider going to 5/4x4 or 6, especially if there is any chance he would have to be walking around on the roof much. I've used 8/4x4 with 48 inch spacing and it holds up well. Definitely screws to hold on the metal.

Stew



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Joel Eisner

I cut these (skip sheathing) for a roofer friend.  What do you guys get for these per linear foot or bf?  I cut mainly SYP but poplar or other ones will also end up in the pile too.
The saga of our timberframe experience continues at boothemountain.blogspot.com.

submarinesailor

I agree with Stew.  We just put on about 1230 SF of metal roofing and used 5/4 x 4 for all for it.  Make for a good solid roof and footing.

Bruce

SAW MILLER

       I use 4 and 6 inches wide and keep the space between the boards at 8 inches.If you space them too fur apart the metal can buckle from walking on it.A full inch thick works good and that is for 24 /c rafters.
LT 40 woodmizer..Massey ferg.240 walker gyp and a canthook

rewimmer

I saw a lot of poplar for lathes or purlins for this type application. We suggest cutting the thickness about 1/8th thicker than the length of the screws. Ever tried stacking hay in the top of a shed or barn with nails or screws jamming into your head or back? We usually end up with 1 1/4" to 1 3/8"  thick and 6" in wide and we never use nails on the tin. We also use deck nails to hold the green lathes or purlins down and the poplar will do funny things as it is coming off the mill, so we nail it asap.
SAW MILLER is correct and we space according to the thickness of the tin.
Robert in Virginia

Dana

I used all poplar for my barn addition. The rafters are 2x12's  24"o.c.
and the purlins are 2x4's 24" o.c.

Grass-fed beef farmer, part time sawyer

Frickman

I've sawn alot of poplar for purlins, including some this past week. Around here, with our snow loads, we usually make them 2 x 4 or 2 x 6.
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

scsmith42

One of the first barn buildings that I built had 1 x 4 purlins (nailers).  A couple of them broke from my walking on the roof above them.

All future buildings had at least 1 x 6 - no problems with them.  Poplar should work well.

Scott
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

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